A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*
Right now
05-24-2014, 02:34 PM
#1003
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
05-24-2014, 02:34 PM
#1004
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Definitely keep cold ones in the fridge..
05-24-2014, 08:19 PM
#1005
Wow- the CP bolt is a no joke- it took us 2 hrs and that bolt was not moving- finally the blip method worked. The rear TB cover bolts were pain too. Everything is out and tomorrow we start putting the new parts in. Everything seems to be fine- pulleys, belt and water pump, the TB Auto tensioner was leaking though. Took some pics too- will post them soon.
Last edited by tihomirbg; 05-24-2014 at 08:33 PM.
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JD TL-S (03-19-2015)
05-25-2014, 01:55 AM
#1006
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
05-25-2014, 10:43 AM
#1009
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
You need to pry the cover back. From the looks of it though (cracked cover), I'd say it's due.. I just bumped my side engine mount thread.
Here's the pic:
Here's the pic:
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tihomirbg (05-25-2014)
05-25-2014, 11:04 AM
#1010
Registered Big Dog
Just did the 105k service: plus the additional common sense changes....
the cp bolt did not want to come off.
had to put a chain ratchet to the crank pulley gear and use a long 1/2 and it took two men pushing and pulling on the chain ratchet and the ratchet with a socket going in opposite directions...
the cp bolt did not want to come off.
had to put a chain ratchet to the crank pulley gear and use a long 1/2 and it took two men pushing and pulling on the chain ratchet and the ratchet with a socket going in opposite directions...
05-25-2014, 11:06 AM
#1011
Registered Big Dog
05-25-2014, 11:16 AM
#1013
Registered Big Dog
no play (very little) - means your motor mount is good. Lift the boot and look for cracks - if theres no cracks/tears then your motor mount is DEFINITELY fine
- didn't buy new mount since the car has only 60K miles and now the Acura/Honda parts dept is not open till Tues I guess cuz of the holiday 
05-25-2014, 11:49 AM
#1015
the overexplainer
easy way to tell regarding the side mount: if there's a crack in the cover, it's probably busted. Usually from the mount bracket resting on it and slicing it open.
glad the starter method worked haha. took me like 45 min of bending extensions with a long cheater bar to resort to the blip method.
glad the starter method worked haha. took me like 45 min of bending extensions with a long cheater bar to resort to the blip method.
05-25-2014, 12:24 PM
#1016
Team Owner
Just did the 105k service: plus the additional common sense changes....
the cp bolt did not want to come off.
had to put a chain ratchet to the crank pulley gear and use a long 1/2 and it took two men pushing and pulling on the chain ratchet and the ratchet with a socket going in opposite directions...
the cp bolt did not want to come off.
had to put a chain ratchet to the crank pulley gear and use a long 1/2 and it took two men pushing and pulling on the chain ratchet and the ratchet with a socket going in opposite directions...
05-25-2014, 01:22 PM
#1018
Team Owner
Yep, the crank holder tool if used while blipping the starter would probably result in a broken crankshaft or if you're lucky a broken tool or pulley.
The starter method should still be used as a last resort. While most get away with it, there are severe consequences when things go wrong like a broken crankshaft snout.
The starter method should still be used as a last resort. While most get away with it, there are severe consequences when things go wrong like a broken crankshaft snout.
05-25-2014, 01:27 PM
#1019
Team Owner
I went to O'Reilleys for my mount since it came off in two pieces. Just like the blower motor relay I got from there for the Nissan, this was an OEM part in Honda packaging for half the cost. It was a great accidental find. Even if it isn't OEM, I wouldn't worry about it for the side mount. I would want the front and rear to be OEM though.
05-25-2014, 02:36 PM
#1021
Race Director
Dude, I guess you didn't read through this thread? Asked and answered multiple times. You're fine. Rear cam has a sweet spot. Move it either side of the sweet spot and the valve springs are going to spin it 1/8 turn one way or the other.
05-25-2014, 02:39 PM
#1022
Team Owner
Yep, mine did this at least 3 times. Valve spring pressure is not enough to bend a valve so you're fine.
05-25-2014, 06:04 PM
#1024
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Just did the 105k service: plus the additional common sense changes....
the cp bolt did not want to come off.
had to put a chain ratchet to the crank pulley gear and use a long 1/2 and it took two men pushing and pulling on the chain ratchet and the ratchet with a socket going in opposite directions...
the cp bolt did not want to come off.
had to put a chain ratchet to the crank pulley gear and use a long 1/2 and it took two men pushing and pulling on the chain ratchet and the ratchet with a socket going in opposite directions...
05-25-2014, 08:37 PM
#1026
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Lies! 
05-25-2014, 08:38 PM
#1027
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Probably because you drive the TL like a grandma now that you have the S2k
05-25-2014, 08:54 PM
#1029
Race Director
05-25-2014, 08:58 PM
#1030
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
ah, you beat me. NFN is right.
05-26-2014, 12:16 AM
#1032
Race Director
05-26-2014, 12:24 AM
#1033
Team Owner
05-26-2014, 12:44 AM
#1034
Registered Big Dog
05-26-2014, 12:56 AM
#1035
Team Owner
Good luck. I'm a little paranoid but once the belt was on I put the crank pulley on, checked the marks, and spun the engine a full revolution and rechecked the marks. I even started the engine with just the bare timing belt to make sure everything looked and sounded ok.
05-26-2014, 02:53 AM
#1036
^thanks- we also thought about cranking the engine after the TB was on but we got a second thought because the side engine mount was not there yet and the hydraulic jack was under the oil pan to support the engine. We rechecked the timing three times just to make sure they all are at TDC
05-26-2014, 09:18 AM
#1037
2 oh shit moments:
1) when I used a screwdriver with leverage to pull the pin...seemed much too much like a grenade and I knew I couldn't go back.
2) when I turned key on for first time and listened for noise and was greeted with a VSA and CEL because I forgot the big plug on the throttle body
You did swap that little inner bearing spacer thing over onto the new tensioner pulley, right?!! So it would clear the water pump?
1) when I used a screwdriver with leverage to pull the pin...seemed much too much like a grenade and I knew I couldn't go back.
2) when I turned key on for first time and listened for noise and was greeted with a VSA and CEL because I forgot the big plug on the throttle body
You did swap that little inner bearing spacer thing over onto the new tensioner pulley, right?!! So it would clear the water pump?
Last edited by rockstar143; 05-26-2014 at 09:32 AM.
05-26-2014, 09:32 AM
#1040
Race Director
Edit: NVM, no, I don't remember any spacer for the idler pulley.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 05-26-2014 at 09:37 AM.