A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*
04-21-2014, 11:58 AM
#841
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
04-21-2014, 11:58 AM
#842
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
on the battery tiedown
04-21-2014, 12:02 PM
#843
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
battery tiedown is more than likely a useful step if you're not replacing auto tensioner, not necessary if you are. I did it because I didn't know any better at the time. SM doesn't specify, but it becomes clear after you do it. 
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rockstar143 (04-21-2014)
04-21-2014, 12:50 PM
#844
Race Director
Sooo...after watching and rewatching the eric the car guy vids on the valve adjustment, I'm worried about not over tightening the valves. I "feel" like I've got the hang of what the feeler gauge drag should feel like...
I was thinking that since there's a tolerance range, I should use the lower range feeler gauge and see if it slides easily enough to know that I'm perfect. I used the .009" intake and .012" exhaust (took me a bit to figure out I had the right gauges...the ones I bought didn't have MM on them).
Does this logic make sense? There's such a fine line between feeling TIGHT and then too LOOSE. So, used correct middle of the road size for the range, today I'll check my work yesterday (did two full cycles followed by torquing the locking nut to 14 ft/lb) with the LOWER range feeler to ensure not too tight.
I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but...you know...I don't want to burn my valves or do any permanent damage. I did find that the intakes side was mostly too lose and exhaust, a little too tight.
Thanks in advance for any input!
I was thinking that since there's a tolerance range, I should use the lower range feeler gauge and see if it slides easily enough to know that I'm perfect. I used the .009" intake and .012" exhaust (took me a bit to figure out I had the right gauges...the ones I bought didn't have MM on them).
Does this logic make sense? There's such a fine line between feeling TIGHT and then too LOOSE. So, used correct middle of the road size for the range, today I'll check my work yesterday (did two full cycles followed by torquing the locking nut to 14 ft/lb) with the LOWER range feeler to ensure not too tight.
I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but...you know...I don't want to burn my valves or do any permanent damage. I did find that the intakes side was mostly too lose and exhaust, a little too tight.
Thanks in advance for any input!
e.g., set the exhaust to 0.013" using "go, no go" (a 0.013" feeler gauge "grabs", but a 0.014" gauge won't fit). set the intakes to 0.08" using "go, no go" (a 0.080" "grabs" but a 0.090" won't fit).
^^^ That's the way I think I'll do mine next time.
04-22-2014, 11:34 AM
#847
the overexplainer
The head of the bolt on the idler is tapered, so loosening the idler actually gives the belt slack. Tightening the idler down will tighten the belt a degree as well, which is probably why if you're reusing the tensioner, to tighten the idler first before removing the tie down.
Last edited by ez12a; 04-22-2014 at 11:36 AM.
04-22-2014, 11:48 AM
#848
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
04-22-2014, 01:24 PM
#849
Advanced
nice wright up man, now im somewhat handy. but I don't think I would do this by my self. not as mechanically inclined as others. but that's why im on here and reading other things, just to learn
04-22-2014, 01:37 PM
#850
that's how it started...5 years ago i read this thread and thought nope, no way, not happening.
fast forward to now and i'm elbow deep in elephant dung and hoping for the best.
I'll feel very "connected" with the car though...probably never sell it.
EZ12, thanks, man...good tips. Since I'm not reusing the tensioner though, I guess I'll mark my belt and then remove pulley, then tensioner, belt, then wp and reverse the process, line it all up and BAM, pull the pin.
Also, BlackBeauty...if you think the DIY was missing some serious steps, and you're qualified and a tech...why not post what you feel would be helpful to others? Unless you were mainly just trying to knock the thread to generate more business for dealerships around the world for this service?
fast forward to now and i'm elbow deep in elephant dung and hoping for the best.
I'll feel very "connected" with the car though...probably never sell it.
EZ12, thanks, man...good tips. Since I'm not reusing the tensioner though, I guess I'll mark my belt and then remove pulley, then tensioner, belt, then wp and reverse the process, line it all up and BAM, pull the pin.
Also, BlackBeauty...if you think the DIY was missing some serious steps, and you're qualified and a tech...why not post what you feel would be helpful to others? Unless you were mainly just trying to knock the thread to generate more business for dealerships around the world for this service?
04-22-2014, 01:57 PM
#851
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Yeah, that guys post made no kind of sense.
If that was the reason he posted, then that would truly be sad. If he was smart, he'd see that most people read this thread and value the work it takes to do the timing belt then pass the buck to fair dealerships to do the work + buy the extra parts that most shops skip over.
His quip about marks being lined up.. did he even fucking read the OP? Hey buddy, if you read, you'd see the generous section about having all the marks lined up before pulling the pin. Also, idk how many miles the other guys have on their cars but I'm around 165k. That's almost 60k, running smooth. I'm sure if it was "out of time" it would have reared it's ugly head by now.
Also, I did a get a few pointers from a very experienced Acura / Honda master tech who knows these engines in and out, and who I also acknowledged in the OP.
If that was the reason he posted, then that would truly be sad. If he was smart, he'd see that most people read this thread and value the work it takes to do the timing belt then pass the buck to fair dealerships to do the work + buy the extra parts that most shops skip over.
His quip about marks being lined up.. did he even fucking read the OP?
Hey buddy, if you read, you'd see the generous section about having all the marks lined up before pulling the pin. Also, idk how many miles the other guys have on their cars but I'm around 165k. That's almost 60k, running smooth. I'm sure if it was "out of time" it would have reared it's ugly head by now. Also, I did a get a few pointers from a very experienced Acura / Honda master tech who knows these engines in and out, and who I also acknowledged in the OP.
04-23-2014, 09:08 AM
#852
Yeah, that guys post made no kind of sense.
If that was the reason he posted, then that would truly be sad. If he was smart, he'd see that most people read this thread and value the work it takes to do the timing belt then pass the buck to fair dealerships to do the work + buy the extra parts that most shops skip over.
His quip about marks being lined up.. did he even fucking read the OP? Hey buddy, if you read, you'd see the generous section about having all the marks lined up before pulling the pin. Also, idk how many miles the other guys have on their cars but I'm around 165k. That's almost 60k, running smooth. I'm sure if it was "out of time" it would have reared it's ugly head by now.
Also, I did a get a few pointers from a very experienced Acura / Honda master tech who knows these engines in and out, and who I also acknowledged in the OP.
If that was the reason he posted, then that would truly be sad. If he was smart, he'd see that most people read this thread and value the work it takes to do the timing belt then pass the buck to fair dealerships to do the work + buy the extra parts that most shops skip over.
His quip about marks being lined up.. did he even fucking read the OP?
Hey buddy, if you read, you'd see the generous section about having all the marks lined up before pulling the pin. Also, idk how many miles the other guys have on their cars but I'm around 165k. That's almost 60k, running smooth. I'm sure if it was "out of time" it would have reared it's ugly head by now. Also, I did a get a few pointers from a very experienced Acura / Honda master tech who knows these engines in and out, and who I also acknowledged in the OP.
04-23-2014, 09:18 AM
#853
that's how it started...5 years ago i read this thread and thought nope, no way, not happening.
fast forward to now and i'm elbow deep in elephant dung and hoping for the best.
I'll feel very "connected" with the car though...probably never sell it.
EZ12, thanks, man...good tips. Since I'm not reusing the tensioner though, I guess I'll mark my belt and then remove pulley, then tensioner, belt, then wp and reverse the process, line it all up and BAM, pull the pin.
Also, BlackBeauty...if you think the DIY was missing some serious steps, and you're qualified and a tech...why not post what you feel would be helpful to others? Unless you were mainly just trying to knock the thread to generate more business for dealerships around the world for this service?
fast forward to now and i'm elbow deep in elephant dung and hoping for the best.
I'll feel very "connected" with the car though...probably never sell it.
EZ12, thanks, man...good tips. Since I'm not reusing the tensioner though, I guess I'll mark my belt and then remove pulley, then tensioner, belt, then wp and reverse the process, line it all up and BAM, pull the pin.
Also, BlackBeauty...if you think the DIY was missing some serious steps, and you're qualified and a tech...why not post what you feel would be helpful to others? Unless you were mainly just trying to knock the thread to generate more business for dealerships around the world for this service?
Last edited by BlackBeautyAcura; 04-23-2014 at 09:20 AM.
04-23-2014, 09:29 AM
#854
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Okay, now I know for sure he didn't do it himself.
Not to be condescending, but run along little buddy.
Not to be condescending, but run along little buddy.
04-23-2014, 09:46 AM
#855
lol you only say that bc you forgot to mention that in your write up! im not here to bash you or your write up... just trying to help ppl out from what you did not mention! now get your facts straight little buddy!! lol you ppl
04-23-2014, 10:51 AM
#856
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
I wasn't taking about just when you pull the pin!! You have to constantly make sure to keep your marks line up before and after the pin has been pulled!! Ive seen ppl line up the marks then pull the pin and still be out of time bc they didn't keep it in time while changing the belt...also theres only one way to put your timing belt on!
2) In the DIY, it clearly states to check your marks after changing the belt and before pulling the pin. You obviously didn't read or can't comprehend simple visually illustrated instructions.
3) Nobody said there was any other way to install the timing belt.
That's not the case at all I was just letting ppl know! just like when you remove the power steering hose you should immediately cap it with something a rag usually does the trick otherwise you'll have an air pocket in your power steering! to fix that problem turn on your heater full blast and let it run for about 15 minutes will turning your steering wheel all the way back and forth multiple times within the 15 minutes your car is running! I Hope this helps some of you trying to DIY!!!
1) You don't remove / disconnect the power steering hose to replace the timing belt.
2) Power steering has nothing to do with the heater core or water passages. You've somehow mixed the steps of burping the cooling system and power steering.
3) Even if you did get air into the power steering, it will aspirate out the reservoir through the return line, it's not a vacuum. The cap is to merely keep shit out, not air.
04-23-2014, 11:00 AM
#857
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
04-23-2014, 11:10 AM
#858
Race Director
That's not the case at all I was just letting ppl know! just like when you remove the power steering hose you should immediately cap it with something a rag usually does the trick otherwise you'll have an air pocket in your power steering! to fix that problem turn on your heater full blast and let it run for about 15 minutes will turning your steering wheel all the way back and forth multiple times within the 15 minutes your car is running! I Hope this helps some of you trying to DIY!!!
Wow! Our cars have a power steering/heater core interconnect? I had no idea!!
Bwahahaha! I sure as hell wouldn't want you working on my car.
04-23-2014, 11:16 AM
#859
I also never said they were interconnected those are 2 step to do to make sure your heater blows hot and also to make sure you have no air in your power steering pump...lol
Last edited by BlackBeautyAcura; 04-23-2014 at 11:18 AM.
04-23-2014, 11:19 AM
#860
Race Director
That's not the case at all I was just letting ppl know! just like when you remove the power steering hose you should immediately cap it with something a rag usually does the trick otherwise you'll have an air pocket in your power steering! to fix that problem turn on your heater full blast and let it run for about 15 minutes will turning your steering wheel all the way back and forth multiple times within the 15 minutes your car is running! I Hope this helps some of you trying to DIY!!!
04-23-2014, 11:35 AM
#861
lol I didn't say running the heater will do anything to the power steering. I said turning your steering wheel from right to left multiple time will release the air pocket!!! you run the heater for your water pump to make sure you have heat TWO SEPARATE STEPS PLEASE GET THAT THIS TIME AROUND OMG!!!!!
04-23-2014, 11:38 AM
#862
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GC
Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.
Originally Posted by MT
Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference.
04-23-2014, 11:40 AM
#864
Race Director
lol I didn't say running the heater will do anything to the power steering. I said turning your steering wheel from right to left multiple time will release the air pocket!!! you run the heater for your water pump to make sure you have heat TWO SEPARATE STEPS PLEASE GET THAT THIS TIME AROUND OMG!!!!!
"just like when you remove the power steering hose you should immediately cap it with something a rag usually does the trick otherwise you'll have an air pocket in your power steering! to fix that problem turn on your heater full blast and let it run for about 15 minutes will turning your steering wheel all the way back and forth multiple times within the 15 minutes your car is running! "
04-23-2014, 11:41 AM
#866
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
04-23-2014, 11:48 AM
#867
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
04-23-2014, 12:09 PM
#868
Team Owner
How did I miss this awesome crap? Late to the party but you just helped confirm what everyone already knows about dealerships and their quality of work. You don't touch the powersteering pump. It would speed up nothing. My mount went right in, nothing hard about it.
Just had to get my .02 in. I'm done now.
Just had to get my .02 in. I'm done now.
The following 2 users liked this post by I hate cars:
Majofo (04-23-2014),
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04-23-2014, 12:32 PM
#869
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
It's been a while since this thread had a little excitement..
04-23-2014, 01:49 PM
#871
Okay, and just because I'm super duper crazy anal retentive guy...I had already planned on marking old belt and crank and cams and transferring marks to the new belt to ensure it's EXACTLY how I have it...then confirm where the slack should be per Maj's image THEN pulling the pin.
04-23-2014, 01:49 PM
#872
Race Director
... just like when you remove the power steering hose you should immediately cap it with something a rag usually does the trick otherwise you'll have an air pocket in your power steering! to fix that problem turn on your heater full blast and let it run for about 15 minutes will turning your steering wheel all the way back and forth multiple times within the 15 minutes your car is running! I Hope this helps some of you trying to DIY!!!
04-23-2014, 02:04 PM
#873
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
I bet you get your fat finger stuck in the pin while installing and accidentally pull it. 
04-23-2014, 02:05 PM
#874
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
04-23-2014, 03:04 PM
#875
Funny, you know I did that whole PS rebuild DIY garage thread...I have a leak again, but only on the front orange o-ring...I cleaned it up, it's still soft and but was in the chamber rather than on the protruding nipple (connected to the 10MM bolt flange). I moved it over and am hoping it'll be good to go.
Also, Monday night I shinetsued the tb cover gaskets...and filled my side mount with windowweld.
oh, and realized it's been 4 years since i replaced the serpentine belt...so not exactly "new" anymore...ordered a new one.
Also, Monday night I shinetsued the tb cover gaskets...and filled my side mount with windowweld.
oh, and realized it's been 4 years since i replaced the serpentine belt...so not exactly "new" anymore...ordered a new one.
04-23-2014, 03:46 PM
#876
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Good update J!
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rockstar143 (04-23-2014)
04-23-2014, 03:48 PM
#877
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Just don't put glue / window weld in the PS inlet nipple. Some dumb guy did that years ago, trying to secure the o-ring. 
Yeah, it didn't go so well for him. It's probably still documented in the thread.
Yeah, it didn't go so well for him.
It's probably still documented in the thread.
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rockstar143 (04-23-2014)
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rockstar143 (04-23-2014)
04-23-2014, 04:36 PM
#879
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
The following 2 users liked this post by Majofo:
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