Majofo

You should be fine Jared.. post pics of the crank pulley so we can see the carnage.

jaredb03

I ordered a new one since i am worried about vibration and wearing out bearings so i will post a pic when i change it out.

@nfnsquared I had the plugs out so there was no way the car would start. Good to know tho.

I do have a question about torquing the new one down. After breaking the last one i don't have much confidence in the tool being able to hold it securely and don't want to break another one. Is there anyway to torque it down without using the pulley tool? I know on a manual trans you can just put it into gear and it locks that up. Is it possible to do that with an automatic and just put it in drive and turn the car off?

Thanks for all the help guys.

nfnsquared

I think that's a smart move. I wouldn't chance it.

Remember, you'll be using a lot less force when tightening the bolt than when you were removing it. The tool should work fine for that.

94eg!

If it's an automatic, putting it into drive will do almost nothing. The engine is connected to a viscous coupling called a torque converter. As far as I can imagine, you will only stir fluid as the motor turns over. Same thing as being at a stop light with the trans in D or P and the engine running. Use the tool.

Majofo

I would have ordered another pulley as well, but I still want to see the carnage.

Yeah, no worries about tightening it.. tool will work fine. I used a breaker bar over the tool (you can use a cheater bar / sleeve as well) to lock the pulley in place and tightened away.

nfnsquared

Yup, x2 on pics of the damage. IIRC, he's the second person to have a crank pulley break/shatter/splinter. WTF?

Jared must be a beefy SOB

Majofo

blackpearl312

So i'm approaching the 105k mark on my 06 TL. I'm currently sitting at 103xxx..Besides the Gates kit on Amazon, what exactly should i change out?

rgs1987

awesome write up this is exactly what ill be doing in the upcoming week. My car is due for a nice tune up.

nfnsquared

^^^clarification, that is for the bare tool, no battery or charger...

Damn, was cleaning out my email and found this deal that I missed. If they ever have it again, I'm going to snag that IR W7150 kit from them!!

http://email.zorotools.com/public/?q...nuifeqsrwyabbj

FYI, they have 17% off for today only, code is POTOGOLD

I hate cars

Has anyone used that impact to actually pop a Honda crank bolt loose? If it works, it's money well spent and I might buy one. I really wanted an air powered one since I have a compressor now but maybe electric is the way to go in this case.

As an update to mine, the car is running better and quieter than ever. I'm afraid because it's running so good. Everytime the GN ran super good it was about time for it to blow up.

I had the noises after doing the timing belt which are completely gone now. I developed a squeak/chirping sound shortly after the knocking sound went away and it got so bad I could hear it with the windows up and radio on. Other drivers were looking at me. It did it at idle and even more under load. I pried one of the heat shields a little and put the impact back on the crank pulley and hammered it gently toward the engnie and it's completely quiet now. I was getting worried I was going to have to take it apart again to do the shim kit because it did sound a lot like the chirping videos.

I went from straight Redline Racing fluid which is thick to a combo of DexVI and lightweight type F fluid and even the transmission at idle and out of gear is so much quiter. You don't always realize just how much the transmission hisses until it stops one day.

During the timing belt repalcement I also replaced all of the plastic guards that were missing underneath the car and that has resulted in significantly lower wind noise from 40mph and up, around the windshield/cowl area.

I replaced the mounts during the timing belt install and that along with the lighter transmission fluid has resulted in an idle that makes it hard to tell if the engine is running.

I've gone a little of topic but I'm just glad I decided to put a little extra money into the car along with doing the timing belt. It feels like new again and I'm hopeful the $1,200 or so I put into it doing all kinds of crap will mean another trouble free 105,000 miles.

Another thanks to Majofo.

Majofo

Would definitely like to see that eGun in action on a Honda CP.

nfnsquared

I already posted one youtube link. There are a few others on youtube. YMMV. Haven't used it myself, but at less than $300 for the kit (with the 30% off), it's a great buy IMO.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Mechanice at work (works on bucket trucks) had a IR tiny gun with a 3/8" line...he said "hold the brake"...I did...then came around the car to ask him the best way to set up the pulley tool and breaker bar, the just smirked at me and held up the crank pulley and was like, "you mean to remove this"?!?

Not all guns are created equally, I learned.

I'm at 10 years and 103K. I need to get off my laurels to do this. I have zero excuse with the S2000 as my 2nd car...I can literally take a month to do this if I wanted.

Day 1: removed 1 spark plug
Day 2: remove side engine mount
...

DrOwNiNgPoOl84

iTrader: (2)

It ain't as bad as you'd think, this is great DIY, I did mine Monday & ended well. First timing belt job ever

I hate cars

Lol. I wish I had that luxury. Even if I did I always end up in a race with myself for no apparent reason so there's no such thing as taking it easy

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^you mean you can't make your soon to be 1500 HP Grand national your daily driver



I look forward to your thread on that upgrade btw...holy crap.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, I really should just get into it and knock it out...I added doing the valves myself and changing the valve cover gaskets and radiator hoses to my pile of collected parts for the job. Maybe I'll split it in 2 and do that first.

RAGINTYPE-S

I just took mine to Hall Acura on Jefferson.

94eg!

I just did the timing belt on my mother-in-laws 03 Pilot for the second time now (210k miles). Plus I did my wife's 04 Pilot about a year and a half ago. I guess it's good cause it keeps me in practice. It's going to be time for me to do the TL next year when my 2005 Sport hits the 10yr mark. It's currently sitting around 74k miles so I'm not worried.

I've had new NGK Lazer Iridium plugs sitting on the shelf for 2 years now waiting. :S

I've been kinda dreading it all this time because the TL has such a small engine bay relative to the Pilot......and even that tests my patience at times.
PS: My compliments to Gates for making such good timing belt kits at such fantastic prices.

nfnsquared

Was the crank bolt any easier to get off the 2nd time around?

I second that!!

Fat_Kid

This is exactly what Ive been looking for! Still at 77k miles, but wanted to know what to expect. Thank you man! I'm too new to know how to save this thread, any suggestions? lol Thanks.

94eg!

Ooh good question. No it was not any easier. It was exactly the same. Took two hands to pull, and two feet to push on opposite breaker bars to make it happen. Though this is my 3rd time doing one so I knew what to expect.

On a side note, most every other bolt was actually MOREe difficult to remove. Those stupid fiddly belt cover bolts (all 17 of them) were a total PITA to get out. Each one seemed to have plenty of drag on it from the cover this time around. That meant I couldn't free hand any of them out. They all went back in fine, though that process takes about an hour itself. Plus you almost always mess up the re-assembly order and have to take them back out again.

One MAJOR problem I ran into this time was the lowest of the 3 long bolts that hold the passengers engine mount pedestal over the water pump had seized. When I removed it, it was clear it the steel threads had fused to the aluminum block. It took me over an hour, along with all my strength to force that bolt to twist out. The only tool that made any progress was the box end of my 14mm Harbor Freight LONG combo-wrench ($20 11 piece set). The length gave me just enough leverage to force the bolt a tiny 6th of a turn with all of my body force. I fought and prayed over that bolt and pretty much ruined the muscle tissue in the palm of my hand (with gloves on). When it finally came out it didn't look good. I grabbed my harbor freight metric tap & die set ($14) and re-cut the threads on the bolt. Then I re-tapped the hole in the block and blew out the shavings with a can-o-air. I wasn't sure if it would hold, but it was too late to look back. I applied a little copper anti-seize to all 3 bolts and torqued them down. Praise the lord!!! The nasty bolt held it's torque!!!

These two tools saved my butt.

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piec...l#.UymgoPldXHU

http://www.harborfreight.com/40-piec...set-39384.html

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^those are great tips to get before tackling...also a reason we leave ourselves so much extra time for the inevitable.

Majofo

I dabbed many of the main bolts with anti-seize. I should have dabbed them all..

I dabbed the retention screws years ago when I turned the rotors. When time came to replace the rotors, the anti-seize worked great, screws came off without an issue. I know they have no business there, but said hell.. dabbed them put them back on.

Hopefully the same goes for the CP. I'm halfway to the next change. Probably a couple of years until I have to do it again.

The TL will be a breeze EG.. Maybe a little more finessing but you don't have to mess with the power steering pump, etc.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I actually BOUGHT new retention screws for the S2000 and dabbed them in anti seize too...since the cars now reside in South Florida, no real corrosion, but I like peace of mind.

Maj, I was going to ask since you've done it a bunch...is there a benefit to doing the valve covers, removing power steering pump etc...like, would it make the job THAT much easier for access, given that most of the stuff is pretty easy to remove once you get messy and in there.

Majofo

There's no need to remove the pump, nor would removing it make the job easier. Valve covers for the valve job. If you end up doing the valve job, definitely a good idea to replace all the related seals / gaskets.

94eg!

IMPORTANT!!! Remember that when using anti-seize or oil on a bolt, it lubricates as well as protects from corrosion. This means your torque value must be adjusted (reduced) to compensate. Otherwise you risk over-tightening & stretching the bolts.



Just like on spark plugs: NGK says 18-21.6 lb/ft on their plugs dry. Honda says 14 lb/ft WITH anti-seize.

nfnsquared

Correction: The spec for our SP (with AS) is 13, not 14...

Majofo

That bolt..

I hate cars

Whew. Good thing you caught that mistake. We would have had people stripping spark plug threads like crazy.

Since I've got you here, I was wondering at what temperature is 13in/lbs good for and do you temperature compensate your torque values? Also, is this for the copper or nickel based anti-sieze?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^
I was thinking the same thing.

Matt...I've got a math riddle for you...if you hop in your Grand National and go absolutely as fast as it'll go, how long will it take you to get to my house here in Sunny South Florida, do my 105K service, have 8 beers, 6 slices of pizza and 9 hours of sleep, then return home at a slightly reduced speed.

This quiz is not timed.

I hate cars

That depends on how many times it breaks down. It would probably be quicker in the TL lol. I sure wish I could, I would definitely do it for you free of charge. I haven't been to Florida since I was a kid when we lived on the Gulf Coast but I would love an excuse to visit.

Majofo

The answer is never. He wouldn't make it past Austin.

Well.. Houston to be exact. He'd party and get blackout drunk in Austin, then find himself on Justn's couch in Houston. Meanwhile, Justn will have crashed his GN into a curb and subsequently backed it into a tree, completely sober.

I hate cars

That's interesting that it was just as hard or harder to remove the second time around. I guess it's like the transmission fill bolt, it's going to be hard to break free every time no matter how little torque you use. Mine is just now getting to where it doesn't stick every time and it's probably because I use very little torque and it's been removed 50 times.

tones160

freaaaaakkkk outtaaaa here lol. I'd be terrified doing this. It looks like a lot to do and i normally do my own work on my car even at electricity level >_<

94eg!

Well I guess after the fact it kinda made sense. My mother-in-law drove 105k in just 5 years (I did the 1st TB/WP in 2009), and she definitely doesn't keep the engine bay clean. Plus she probably drove most of this 2nd 105k on blown out motor mounts.

Needless to say she noticed the performance & ride-quality improvement immediately.

Majofo

Well.. at least it's removed any doubt. I have to deal with an axle seal, I'd rather do another timing belt job.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That sentiment is kind enough, Matt. Thanks man.

Where abouts? Sister lived in St Pete and then Lithia outside Tampa for a bit...had a possible job move within the company to Sarasota, but I'm not ready to be 3 hours from Mom/Dad and wife's Mom/Dad yet.

I hate cars

My father was born in Tampa. I spent most of my early childhood in Biloxi, Gautier, and Ocean Springs, Ms. We would usually vacation in Destin and some other city I can't think of the name now, because it was close but I hear it's not so nice. I can honestly say I LOVE that part of the country and every time I go back to visit I'm pissed I spent my teen and adult years in California, especially Bakersfield.

I hate cars