nfnsquared

^^^^Damn Brutus

IMO, smart move to use a new pulley.

Majofo

jaredb03

It definitely wasn't an enjoyable experience. I was using a 4 foot cheater bar and pushing as hard as i could when it broke and i face planted into the side of my car. The new one only ended up costing me about $70 after a $50 off coupon at advance auto's website.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I'm sorry for your misfortune but couldn't help but picturing your fender looking like this after

Majofo

jared is Harrison Ford??

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

very detailed write up. thanks

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Jared is.

ayabei

Detailed threads like these deserve several thumbs up and respect to the writer.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

great, just majofo needs. a bigger head.

JLPTL

sup guys quick question,

i just purchased a 05 acura tl with 61k on it and i was wondering if i need to replace my timing belt and water pump etc becuase i heard that timing belts are 7yrs or 100k whichever comes first?

should i be worried or in a hurry to replace?

Thanks!

nfnsquared

You didn't hear that from your owner's manual. Read it!

maharajamd

iTrader: (1)

Check the belt. If it looks alright I wouldn't use the word "hurry". But the car is 9 years old regardless of mileage. I would think about doing it sooner rather than later.

JLPTL

thank you!

will do thanks!

I hate cars

I would definitely be thinking about it. The owner's manual doesn't give a time limit, that went away with the addition of the MID but at some point you must use common sense and replace it. Rubber degrades over time and so do the belt reinforcements. Just sitting there the rubber is degrading. Not as quickly as if the engine were running and engine bay temps were in the usual 120F+ range but it's still going on. These belts usually look great all the way up to when they break so looks isn't a good way to tell.


You can look around and see what other Honda products recommend. Some of the Civics were around 110,000 or 6 years, whatever comes first. The Accord (TL) belt is not made of some special material, it's probably smart to follow the time frame recommended for other Honda products that have a recommendation in the owner's manual.

I'm going to assume most of your driving is city driving by your low mileage. The engine spins waaaay more total revolutions for a given mileage in city driving. The timing belt doesn't care how much throttle you're giving it, but total engine revolutions matter a whole lot. 60k in the city can have as many engine revolutions as 400k on the freeway.

The MID isn't fool proof. For example, my car only sees about 1,500 miles annually. Just about everyone including oil makers agrees on a certain mileage or 1 year, whichever comes first for oil changes. My MID shows somewhere around 70% oil life left after a year. It's pretty good for the mileage recommendation but it seems to fall short for the people that put few miles on their cars. If I followed the MID I would be changing my oil every 3 years.

The main thing you have going for you is Honda seems to be very conservative in their ratings. I only remember maybe 3 timing belts breaking that were under their limit in the 6 ot do years I've been here and boards like this always attract problems like that. I did mine at 124,000 and 8 years even though some have taken them considerably farther. I would rather do a timing belt job that takes one day and costs $300 a little early than pull the heads and replace the valves.

JLPTL

thanks i will definatley take your consideration , i actually just bought the car a week ago and just did an oil change, and tire rotation. This weekend i am doing a 3x3 atf (redline d4), changing my transmission filter as well, and 3rd and 4th pressure switch to get the transmission out the way and NOW look like next will be the timing belt!

94eg!

2005 Honda Pilot manual (similar 3.5L V6 motor) says 110k miles or 7 years. Whichever comes 1st. This is for both Normal & Severe conditions.

Coolant replacement is 120k miles / 10 years, followed by every 60k miles / 5 years thereafter. This is for both Normal & Severe conditions.

Normal


Severe

BillMFD3

I'll throw my 2cents in here...Great writeups here, lots of excellent tips. I did my 05 the other day with 108,500 miles. Took about 6 hours (I had to retrace my steps a couple times). Did accessory belt, timing belt, all pullies and both tensioners and water pump.

Some of the bolts are hard to reach, I used all the tools in my box, lots of extentions, gear wrench etc.
My crank pully bolt would not come loose using the "honda tool" and a 4' cheater bar. I ended up doing the bump start method. Thank god it worked on the third try.

Very happy to save the $800+. All in I paid around $200 for parts and coolant.

All my used parts looked good, especially sitting at the bottom of my garbage can.

Acurazine ++++++++

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

bored7one4

Am I missing any parts for my TB job?



Water pump
Water pump gasket plus O ring
tensioner
tensioner bearing
idler bearing
timing belt
compressor belt
cam seal x2
crank seal
coolant


question is serpentine belt and compressor belt the same thing?

Thanks

ez12a

Boom. So all the questions about timing belt replacement time intervals, Canadian Timing belts, etc. have been answered.

BillMFD3

Same belt - compressor (AC), alternator belt, power steering belt. Its the outer one that drives all the accessories.
I didnt replace the TB cover seals they were OK on my car. I did also replace the accessory tensioner and pully (its the big one spring loaded) probably overkill.
Some things I noted:
Keep track of all your bolts, etc by placing on paper noting their location (some are longer than others)
It was a PITA to pull the retaining wire out from the hydraulic tensioner.
As I noted the CP bolt was tight, bump start 3x worked for me.
Still need the honda tool to tighten it up. I used per the manual 60 degrees tighter than 50 ft/lb. Or you need a higher rated torque wrench than the one I had.
Watch that water pump O-ring on re-install it tends to move out of the grove before you get it into position.
When I restarted the car it went through some sort of diagnostic showing on the GPS screen (said to keep the car running until it completed) which took around 2 minutes.
I used around 1.5 gallons of honda coolant.
My TB method was marking the old belt before removal and then placing the same marks on the new belt.
Make sure to jack up the engine enough to get the bottom motor mount bolt out or else it hits on the frame. I had to screw around with this as I had it too low. With only one jack I had to retrace my steps to get it higher.
Make sure you support the car securely on stands...

Of course my other car doesnt need a timing belt, chain, cams or valves!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^Excellent, thanks for sharing, Bill...always good to have a "lessons learned" added to the thread.

I'll be hitting this soon.

Majofo

J, seriously.. Less whoring. More doing.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

You know what, Maj...in the next few weekends I will do this. In addition to valve adjustment. I'm not a pussy.


I am, but not a big one.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I believe you can do the valve adjustment Jeremy. Easily.
It's just a matter of disconnecting and disassembling.

Good luck on the timing belt service.
I decided to pay $220 for the service and not have to worry about it lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thank you for the vote of confidence, my friend.
Honestly, at $200 in labor, I'd consider having someone else do it. I will dominate this.

nfnsquared

The valve clearance work is more of a yoga exercise than anything else

Getting to those $%!@# timing belt cover bolts is another story. Rent a 10-year old kid if you can

Majofo

J, you might be a tight little pussy, but your butthole could fit a volkswagen

Majofo

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

damn child labor laws...

will work for spagettios and oreos!

Majofo

J, I'll give you a snickers and mountain dew if you polish my pole.

lancer3vo

Wow... Im hoping to do this soon when I have time. The car has hit 110k and the previous owner hasnt done this service yet. Thanks a million!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Sooo...after watching and rewatching the eric the car guy vids on the valve adjustment, I'm worried about not over tightening the valves. I "feel" like I've got the hang of what the feeler gauge drag should feel like...

I was thinking that since there's a tolerance range, I should use the lower range feeler gauge and see if it slides easily enough to know that I'm perfect. I used the .009" intake and .012" exhaust (took me a bit to figure out I had the right gauges...the ones I bought didn't have MM on them).

Does this logic make sense? There's such a fine line between feeling TIGHT and then too LOOSE. So, used correct middle of the road size for the range, today I'll check my work yesterday (did two full cycles followed by torquing the locking nut to 14 ft/lb) with the LOWER range feeler to ensure not too tight.

I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but...you know...I don't want to burn my valves or do any permanent damage. I did find that the intakes side was mostly too lose and exhaust, a little too tight.

Thanks in advance for any input!

DSC_0098 by swimex37, on Flickr

BlackBeautyAcura

I just replaced my timing belt and water pump myself this is a good write up but not everything you need to know! Going by the write up my car would still be out of time you must have all the makers lined up!

Majofo

Good job J.. Yeah, don't overthink it. Your observations are pretty much what everyone reports back with. Just don't break anything and you'll be fine.

Majofo

Is that what the dealership told you?

Majofo

btw.. good looking heads. Still look new.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Majofo...I think after 3 full passes and checks I'll be okay. just one of those things where in my head I'm like "the guy warned me not to overtighten, oh no!!!"...I know in reality I'm fine and what he means by overtightening is like, OVER tightening in a major way...which I'm not doing. I just don't like the idea of anything resting on "abstract"...it "felt right" to me, but not the next guy. I wish someone with experience could just feel mine and say "YES PERFECT"

I ALMOST hollered at you to ask you wtf the battery tie down was for, but I read over the PDF servcie manual I had bought and figured out it was to hold tension on the TB pulley while you unbolt the tensioner (right?).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Dude, I was trying to make heads or tails of what the heck he meant by that post.

Oh and while doing the back exhaust valves...I DID think of NFN and his yoga joke...he wasn't lying. My achy back.

Thanks about the heads, I've been good about keeping things clean and lubed, my stepdad who owned it the first 5 years was good too.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

A little more wide angle fun
DSC_0119 by swimex37, on Flickr