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George,
I'll check my PDK's nose down behavior tomorrow and report back...
Tried the nose-down un parking brake exercise this evening. Unlocked the electric parking brake, foot on regular brake pedal, PDK engaged smoothly without any jerking. Don't know if this is what was alluded to in George's post...
This has not gone away, and I wonder whether it's related to the TSB requiring a transmission flush to replace fluid that has been overheated.
I'm going to ask about this soon.
When are we supposed to change the transmission fluid? Also is there a rear fluid flush requirement? George, you are I are likely the owners that have the most miles driven so far.
I will be following the below recommendations regardless of maintenance minder. I always did this with my other Acura SH-AWD vehicles.....
For the twin motor unit, i will be changing it every 15,000 miles since its working constantly at low speeds......
Brake fluid every 30,000 miles.
I will go to the dealer and see what they say as no maintenance note has popped up yet in the MID for either service. I'm sure the car will tell them what I should do based on my mileage. Details to follow. Thanks pgeorg!
RLX- Sport Hybrid if i remember correctly, you have already changed the Twin Motor unit fluid once.......I believe it hoped up on the MID a little while ago.....
pgeorge, I don't recall doing it and I would have done it at the dealer. I have an appointment to handle both on Monday so if it was performed already they will let me know. Thanks for remembering that for me! Speak to you soon!
^^
You got the B16 (6 is to replace the twin motor unit fluid) at 7,234 miles, but you actually called Acura and they told you not to change it at that time.
George did do the twin motor fluid change at 18,000 miles.......
^^
You got the B16 (6 is to replace the twin motor unit fluid) at 7,234 miles, but you actually called Acura and they told you not to change it at that time.
George did do the twin motor fluid change at 18,000 miles.......
I apologize, my memory is not what it used to be:-)
I'm in total awe! I would be lost without you. Much SH love out there my friend. I will let you know what they find on Monday. I assume everything will be fine.
Funny you guys mention B16. It popped up on my console two days ago, at just over 17k miles, and I'll be getting the oil and twin motor unit fluid changes next week. NSX goes in for an oil change at the same time. I'm sure my service writer will be super-happy with me ($$$).
Funny you guys mention B16. It popped up on my console two days ago, at just over 17k miles, and I'll be getting the oil and twin motor unit fluid changes next week. NSX goes in for an oil change at the same time. I'm sure my service writer will be super-happy with me ($$$).
I made an error in mileage. As of the end of my commute this AM, my car has 16907 miles. I'm lagging behind some of you guys, but it's looking like whoever buys my car at lease end in 14 months will have a reasonably low-mileage example. The problem is, I can't keep my hands off the NSX--I've already put 4200 miles on it in the nine months I've owned it, which is why I'm going for an oil change already.
Funny you guys mention B16. It popped up on my console two days ago, at just over 17k miles, and I'll be getting the oil and twin motor unit fluid changes next week. NSX goes in for an oil change at the same time. I'm sure my service writer will be super-happy with me ($$$).
I am surprised that you don't do the oil change on the NSX yourself, considering you do much harder upgrades to it
That is true. This visit is really more of a "get to know my local NSX tech" visit, to establish basic trust for if I develop more serious issues with the car. Luckily, the oil change for the NSX is inexpensive.
There is a coupon? Just kidding. I have no idea what these two services will cost. Few hundred? What does everyone think? I didn't ask when I made my appointment and I don't want to bother them with the question on a Friday afternoon.
There is a coupon? Just kidding. I have no idea what these two services will cost. Few hundred? What does everyone think? I didn't ask when I made my appointment and I don't want to bother them with the question on a Friday afternoon.
The B16 includes a bunch of inspections and a tire rotation, in addition to the two fluid changes, as you all know. I went a la carte on the dealer, asking to omit the tire rotation (too soon in terms of mileage for me), and they quoted me around $200 for the two services and the inspections. I'll ask for a discount given I'm bringing two cars the same day. After all, nothing ventured, nothing gained!
I'll also be interested in George's query about flushing the transmission, and his local cost for doing so.
Originally Posted by TampaRLX-SH
I've heard and read the NSX needs new tires more frequently than oill changes.
We'll soon see! So far in 4200 miles, the rear tire tread has held up. I think that was more an issue with early NA1s, though.
The B16 includes a bunch of inspections and a tire rotation, in addition to the two fluid changes, as you all know. I went a la carte on the dealer, asking to omit the tire rotation (too soon in terms of mileage for me), and they quoted me around $200 for the two services and the inspections. I'll ask for a discount given I'm bringing two cars the same day. After all, nothing ventured, nothing gained!
I'll also be interested in George's query about flushing the transmission, and his local cost for doing so.
The cost for my B 16 was $292.00 after application of several coupons. The car had 19,500 miles when the service was done which was 100 miles past the notice which showed up in the MID.
Unfortunately though, I too have had some rough transmission shifts lately and the flushing of the rear differential made no difference. The TSB recommends changing the Twin Motor unit fluid doesn't it? That is not included in the B 16. I expect to go back and ask the sport hybrid tech [who is also the NSX tech] to look up the TSB.
Last edited by Malibu Flyer; 08-12-2016 at 06:16 PM.
I am pretty sure that TSB does not apply to the SH 7 speed dual clutch transmission......
pgeorg -- a little help. I am out of my depth with the technical mechanics of the SH. The TSB 16-045 refers to the torque converter. Is that part of the fluid change which is part of the B 16, rear differential fluid change? I need a little auto mechanics for dummies help. I gave up on auto mechanics when the Beatles were still putting out new music....when I first started driving I did change my own oil, filters and plugs but cars quickly got too complicated for my pea brain - besides I got to the point where paying someone else to mess around with the car was more desirable than using my own valuable but limited spare time.
Has anyone checked whether or not the TSB covers the Sport Hybrid [even though it refers to all '14 and '15 RLXs]?
The torque converter sits between the engine and the automatic transmission. It transfers the rotating power of the engine to the transmission. Think of it as a clutch on a manual transmission.....
It has nothing to do with the rear differential, or in our cars the Twin Motor Unit (our cars do not have a rear differential). So changing the fluid of the twin motor unit (or rear differential on other cars) will not change the behavior of the transmission.
The 7 speed DCT on the SH does not have a torque converter, it uses two separate clutches one for the even gears and one for the odd geas. Than is why i mentioned that the TSB should not apply to our transmission......
Of course flushing the transmission usually helps a lot with rough shifts, but that might not be the case with the transmission in the SH.....
I hope i cleared things up a little bit, and not confused you even more........
Actually i believe none of the 2014 SH owners on this site have had any problems with them, except for the slow unresponsive infotainment system....
RLX-Sport Hybrid had a noise coming from the front suspension, but it was taken care of with a visit to the service department.
I am sure they will verify this......
I've lost track of what's my KC2's mileage. I think it's around 45,000.
The fuel economy has surprised me. The lifetime average is 31.5 mpg right now. I think that's a decent estimate. Somebody reset my B meter so I don't have a real lifetime, but it was 31.3 when it was reset, and my B meter right now is 32.5 mpg.
Two minor complaints have surfaced, but before I mention them I want to re-enforce the idea that these are the most minor concerns. There is no intrusive problem and no lack of functionality. Most people who'd be in the car riding with me wouldn't even notice.
(1)The DCT 7 is not perfectly smooth under all conditions. Under light throttle applications when not in Sport Mode, there is a slight indecision and occasionally jerkiness. Like it's not absolutely sure that you're going to tell it to stay in the gear it's in.
(2)There is a slight moan coming from under the hood, port side. I believe it is probably coming from the area of the transmission and electric motor. It is happening infrequently, but more often as time goes by. There is no noticeable change in functionality, but I believe it could be related to the front electric motor's decision to pre-select a gear, either up or down. My feeling that it could be related to the preselection of a gear is re-enforced anecdotally by the fact that it only seems to happen while on throttle, on light positive throttle.
I had been thinking of these two problems as separate problems, but I believe now that they are evidence of one problem that is causing me to have this experience.
I've lost track of what's my KC2's mileage. I think it's around 45,000.
The fuel economy has surprised me. The lifetime average is 31.5 mpg right now. I think that's a decent estimate. Somebody reset my B meter so I don't have a real lifetime, but it was 31.3 when it was reset, and my B meter right now is 32.5 mpg.
Two minor complaints have surfaced, but before I mention them I want to re-enforce the idea that these are the most minor concerns. There is no intrusive problem and no lack of functionality. Most people who'd be in the car riding with me wouldn't even notice.
(1)The DCT 7 is not perfectly smooth under all conditions. Under light throttle applications when not in Sport Mode, there is a slight indecision and occasionally jerkiness. Like it's not absolutely sure that you're going to tell it to stay in the gear it's in.
(2)There is a slight moan coming from under the hood, port side. I believe it is probably coming from the area of the transmission and electric motor. It is happening infrequently, but more often as time goes by. There is no noticeable change in functionality, but I believe it could be related to the front electric motor's decision to pre-select a gear, either up or down. My feeling that it could be related to the preselection of a gear is re-enforced anecdotally by the fact that it only seems to happen while on throttle, on light positive throttle.
I had been thinking of these two problems as separate problems, but I believe now that they are evidence of one problem that is causing me to have this experience.
Thanks, George. I'm a little over 1000 miles now and have noticed item (1). Haven't noticed (2) yet, but I'll be listening for it.
I have just come to accept some of the sounds and funky things the transmission does as part of the character of the car. I like the fact that sometimes the power delivery is much stronger than I expected for a given amount of throttle input. It is a very engaging automobile which I really enjoy. I don't know if your technicians do this, but the one guy who works on my car always wears gloves and blue booties on his shoes. I don't know if this is something the service manager pushes as I have never seen others do that at my dealership. I wonder if that is an RLX service idea pushed down by corporate, the local service manager demanding it, or just the personal preference of the individual technician. Either way it is a nice touch. I like it!
The service department manager at my dealer asked me to come by on Wednesday afternoon so that he can see if he can experience this, and give an opinion.
Update to follow.
With any luck, he'll tell me I'm being overly enthusiastic and paranoid.
I also find that when parked nose down an incline, I have to be prepared for the car to roll forward a foot before being able to reverse.
Not tragic, but not something you should have to worry about. And it could catch a new driver unawares.
George, this happened to me today. I always back into my driveway, which is on a slight incline. You've all seen pictures of my driveway, here's not much of an incline. Today, while leaving for church, I had reason to back up further down the driveway. I put the car into reverse and as soon as I released the brake, the car started rolling forward. I then had to apply gas very quickly to begin reversing.
The car rolled forward maybe a foot or more, but the point is more that the behavior was unexpected and the distance moved more than usual. It felt rather similar to what happens in my MT cars if I'm a microsecond slow on applying gas once I've let go of the brake and my foot is in transit to the accelerator pedal.
That's the first time I've noticed that much movement when I've done that maneuver in this car. I'm not sure it's a problem so much as my being a little slow that time, but I'll keep an eye out.
I think I have commented on this before, but my solution to the herky-jerky like motions when engaging reverse on an incline is to turn on sport mode which engages the engine and then the problem is gone when I select reverse. On level driveways or parking lots it is never an issue.
So if what RLX-Sport Hybrid is saying holds true, then the reason for the car rolling forward is of no fault of the transmission. When the ICE is off, then the DCT clutches should be disengaged.......so the car rolls because the electric motors are not powerful enough to hold the car stationery.......
Also the Hill Start Assist System most likely will not engage, because the incline (or decline) is not steep enough, or its too steep.........
Of course i could be completely wrong on everything i said above
Another means to address this is with BRAKE HOLD. Whenever I start the car, with my foot on the brake, I release the Parking Brake (which is not used in the condition described) but I also turn on Brake Hold and then select R. I can take my foot of the brake and the car will only move rearward when the power (from whatever source) is applied as you tap the accelerator. I also reverse into my slightly inclined driveway and there is a small threshold from the driveway into the garage. I have learned how to manage this with or without e-mode while not overshooting the power to slowly back into the garage.
It is now second nature for me when I start the car: Foot on Brake Pedal > START> Release Parking Brake > Select Brake Hold > Release Brake pedal > apply accelerator. If you do not apply the Parking Brake, just drop that step in the sequence. With the Push Button slector, this can all be done in a second, whereas an older car would require the tranny selector and whatever parking brake mechanism (release lever left of steering wheel on RL).
It is all second nature now, without looking, and as quick as the days of shifting a tranny lever through the gates.
ICE was on, if I recall correctly. However, the description below IS similar to what happens with a MT in my experience. Again, I'm not sure it's an issue and most likely I was slow on the draw in my ecstatic post-Cars and Coffee, pre-church state . I did recall George's description of earlier in this thread and so referenced it.
Even so....nice looking out, pgeorg!
Originally Posted by pgeorg
So if what RLX-Sport Hybrid is saying holds true, then the reason for the car rolling forward is of no fault of the transmission. When the ICE is off, then the DCT clutches should be disengaged.......so the car rolls because the electric motors are not powerful enough to hold the car stationery.......
Also the Hill Start Assist System most likely will not engage, because the incline (or decline) is not steep enough, or its too steep.........
Of course i could be completely wrong on everything i said above
Thanks neuronbob.... One more thing to consider: when a car with a DCT comes to a stop, or is not moving and in gear (foot on the brake pedal) the clutch disengages from the engine. It does that so the clutch won't overheat and wear out quickly. I am not sure this is the case with our DCT, since we have the electric motor connected to it......... Just one more thing George might want to ask the department manager.......
(1)The DCT 7 is not perfectly smooth under all conditions. Under light throttle applications when not in Sport Mode, there is a slight indecision and occasionally jerkiness. Like it's not absolutely sure that you're going to tell it to stay in the gear it's in.
IMHO the DC7 is the smoothest, fastest shifting auto tranny I have driven in any Acura. That said, I would also think there are probable 'indecision' moments as the car is orchestrating power source, VCM, DC7 shift logic, electronic throttle, etc. When I have noticed a shift being obvious is when traveling below 40mph and feathering the throttle. I have notice that moment when the car wants to drop into EV mode and there is a slight bump as the tach dives and the DC7 is deciding the best gear for speed and load. I also believe when dropping into EV mode the ICE may have been in VCM and that added another 'decision point' to be managed and managed in the mix. Further add the human element who may be adding, dropping or at least not maintaining steady throttle input and you have many variables to manage. I have not experienced harsh shifts but an occasional clumsy shift when I 'faked out' the orchestration process with my imperfect human foot.
I also think we previous RL owners and now RLX drivers have been super sensitized by vehicles that have excelled in smoothness. Get in another hybrid and you think you are in a Flintstone's mobile.
Thanks neuronbob.... One more thing to consider: when a car with a DCT comes to a stop, or is not moving and in gear (foot on the brake pedal) the clutch disengages from the engine. It does that so the clutch won't overheat and wear out quickly. I am not sure this is the case with our DCT, since we have the electric motor connected to it......... Just one more thing George might want to ask the department manager.......
So do we have a wet or dry clutch pack? I was watching some videos on YouTube about the differences between DCT transmissions as well as what you should never do with either one of them which adds premature wear. Interesting stuff. I'm trying to see where it relates to our car's transmission operation.
^^^
I have experienced everything you said Tampa, and i agree with you on everything. After 10,000 miles i have never experienced any harsh shifts......of course George has a lot more miles then me.....
IMHO the DC7 is the smoothest, fastest shifting auto tranny I have driven in any Acura. That said, I would also think there are probable 'indecision' moments ....
I appreciate that your experience is different, but you're a little off base with the circumstances that cause the unusual shifting to exhibit for me.
It's under moderate, steady throttle where it is most evident.
If I feather the throttle so that I'm on the batteries, it's smooth.
If I put my foot down, it's normal, too.
It's only under moderate acceleration at moderate speeds.
Unfortunately, it is conditions in which I frequently find myself. :-)
So do we have a wet or dry clutch pack? I was watching some videos on YouTube about the differences between DCT transmissions as well as what you should never do with either one of them which adds premature wear. Interesting stuff. I'm trying to see where it relates to our car's transmission operation.
I believe its a wet clutch, but i am not 100% sure. I will try to find out....
04-24-2016, 09:19 AM
Luckily, the oil change for the NSX is inexpensive.
