When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
An interesting bit on Vit and Doug (a co-owner of Hondata) from a post on tsxclub:
Originally Posted by pminy
Turns out Doug is an awesome guy! Has an Aussie accent too lol. I found out that he and Vit are pretty good friends and Vit is the reason why the FP has so many capabilities. Vit is basically the guy that reports all the bugs and suggests new parameters to be put into the hondata programs. Just interesting IMO.
Guess who's car Vit was tuning when this bug was discovered a few weeks ago??? As shown in the post, Vit did lay down the law, and it got fixed in about 2 weeks. Now we are back to tuning again
Hello All, I'm new to the 2nd Gen TSX Community, I just traded in my 3rd Gen TL-S in for a smoking deal on a 13 TSX SE 6-MT. The first thing I started looking at was the Hondata FP Support on this vehicle, lol. So I have a few questions and hope this thread is the right place to post:
1. I do want to Smooth Out and Optimize the Torque Curve and hopefully squeeze a few more ponies off a solid Tune and am looking at primarily staying stock for factory warranty reasons. (Sad, RV6 PCD/Headers are Really tempting)
2. Is the Hondata FP supporting '13 Model Years for my vehicle? and Does anyone here know from experience if Flashing your Factory Base Map for Warranty purposes is possible with the FP? I never was able to get the Hondata Tune for my TL-S to see the full capabilities of the software, but from what I have read and heard from several friends, Hondata is the ultimate tuning solution.
3. And not to stray too far off topic from FP, are there any other nice tweaks that can make the K24 a little beefier? I read in this forum the Factory Airbox has a Resonator Tubing that restricts airflow for noise induction reduction?
Thx for the Knowledge and help guys, Pretty excited having a Newer Vehicle with less than 100K
Hello All, I'm new to the 2nd Gen TSX Community, I just traded in my 3rd Gen TL-S in for a smoking deal on a 13 TSX SE 6-MT. The first thing I started looking at was the Hondata FP Support on this vehicle, lol. So I have a few questions and hope this thread is the right place to post:
1. I do want to Smooth Out and Optimize the Torque Curve and hopefully squeeze a few more ponies off a solid Tune and am looking at primarily staying stock for factory warranty reasons. (Sad, RV6 PCD/Headers are Really tempting)
2. Is the Hondata FP supporting '13 Model Years for my vehicle? and Does anyone here know from experience if Flashing your Factory Base Map for Warranty purposes is possible with the FP? I never was able to get the Hondata Tune for my TL-S to see the full capabilities of the software, but from what I have read and heard from several friends, Hondata is the ultimate tuning solution.
3. And not to stray too far off topic from FP, are there any other nice tweaks that can make the K24 a little beefier? I read in this forum the Factory Airbox has a Resonator Tubing that restricts airflow for noise induction reduction?
Thx for the Knowledge and help guys, Pretty excited having a Newer Vehicle with less than 100K
1. A proper tune can definitely smooth out the curve. One of the most talked about e-tuners here (not dyno-based tuning) is Vit Viper. He's really popular with the Civic Si guys, and he's probably the most talked about tuner here on the 2G TSX forum.
2. Yes it supports 2013 as of a few months ago. I have a 2013 TSX, 5AT sadly, but yes I'm running FP. I don't think anyone here knows for sure whether flashing the ECU will leave a trace or raise a flag... you might want to ask Hondata directly about that. However, there's certainly an option for going back to your stock calibration. However like I said, it's not 100% clear whether Honda will know if you've tampered with it before or not. Many will argue it won't, but I doubt they know for sure. The FlashPro is probably the best, most customizable solution for the K24Z3 in our cars. KTuner is an alternative solution, albeit not talked about much here, since it's relatively new. It is, however, a cheaper alternative.
3. RV6 PCD will unlock a lot of that power you're craving for. It's a bolt on mod so, you can just swap the stock primary cat back on when you need to go in for warranty reasons. I doubt the dealership would be able to know it was in there. FlashPro is a good option also to remove rev hang, lower VTEC crossover point, raise rev limiter, etc., but as far as other mods are concerned, PCD is the way to go. Arguably a CAI will get you some gains. However, I'd say skip the CAI until you at least have the other pieces. Test pipe, like the PCD, will likely free up some of the exhaust flow restrictions.
Good luck, and welcome! Keep us updated with your progress!
^Also, IMO, deleting the intake resonator will only yield more sound. The butt dyno might tell you otherwise since it "feels" faster since the car appears to be screaming louder, but there's likely no noticeable difference. If you don't care about making it sound throatier, I say leave the intake resonator alone.
If you want more from your car, I'd go with the following mods (note: dealership may not grant warranty if these mods are on the car, but can be swapped back to stock more or less):
- Suspension upgrade (coilovers or struts/springs combination)
- Thicker rear sway bar
- Short shifter for your 6MT
These non-engine-related mods will really make this car shine IMO.
What they said, as for leaving I trace. I'm not sure but there is a flash to stock option. If you do go FP get a good tune. I am currently doing an eTune from VitTuned. I got a package deal for an etune and FP from him. Night and day difference between stock and his still in progress tune.
^Also, IMO, deleting the intake resonator will only yield more sound. The butt dyno might tell you otherwise since it "feels" faster since the car appears to be screaming louder, but there's likely no noticeable difference. If you don't care about making it sound throatier, I say leave the intake resonator alone.
If you want more from your car, I'd go with the following mods (note: dealership may not grant warranty if these mods are on the car, but can be swapped back to stock more or less):
- Suspension upgrade (coilovers or struts/springs combination)
- Thicker rear sway bar
- Short shifter for your 6MT
These non-engine-related mods will really make this car shine IMO.
Originally Posted by curtdragon
What they said, as for leaving I trace. I'm not sure but there is a flash to stock option. If you do go FP get a good tune. I am currently doing an eTune from VitTuned. I got a package deal for an etune and FP from him. Night and day difference between stock and his still in progress tune.
Nice! Thx for sharing the Love and Knowledge guys! Looks like I swooped up my TSX just at the right time Super pumped to Know Hondata supports my Vehicle. The Rev Hang does bug me a little with the 6-MT, I almost have to baby each gear shift to have a smooth transition. And Dropping the Vtec Engagement a little lower in the Powerband would be really fun and nice, should hopefully give me the little extra "oomph" I am missing from coming from my J-spec V6 to the K24. I can't believe the Factory Setup Vtec doesn't engage until the Very Top of the Powerband when it starts to feel flat, although that could also be due to me being at such a high elevation (5000 ft above Sea Level).. The K24 does definitely exceed my expectations for a NA 4 Cyl I have to say, I definitely can feel a clear night/day difference from the few K20 Civic Si's I have drove in the past. However.., It doesn't really make sense to me that they only offered the SE paired with the K24 and didn't have an Option to mate a Manual to the V6 Engine. Also, Fuel Economy for me so far, has been exactly the same as my TL-S V6 Motor, which baffles me, having smaller/less displacement.
and Yea, I'm Probably going to leave The Intake system alone, Pulling the Intake Resonator out does sound somewhat tempting if it really is as restrictive as people are saying it is. Does that Eliminate or remove any Ducting that Routes airflow to the Airbox, or does it still have the proper tubing routed down to the foglamp area if I'm thinking correctly?
And the Vit Tune sounds pretty legit, I read probably the last 10 pages of this thread, and from what I've read, seems like he is the man to go to. How much does buying the FP and his E-Tune Combo Deal Run?
And as for the RV6 PCD/Headers, are the Gains really that substantial from that one little Bolt On? It does look Extremely Easy to Access and swap, (SO MUCH ROOM IN THIS ENGINE BAY!!) which is a completely different story for the J Pipe PCD's on my TL-S which I never had the chance to do But does yanking the PreCat Throw any CEL's for y'all? I guess the FP probably can override that issue lol.
All in All though, I will have to say I do love this TSX, Steering is unbelievably responsive and hairpin sharp, Solid Gearbox, although much shorter gearing coming from my TL, and Do love the Special Edition Trim Line Interior.
Sorry for the OT, hope I didn't derail this thread too much, Just super excited owning another solid Acura/Honda Product P.S., This Acurazine Community is one of the best/polite forums I've been on, Keep them Good Vibes Flowing
no codes with the PCD and apparently it'll give like 25whp after tune (if those dyno sheets are accurate...)
The only problem is if you get the PCD and don't put a resonator in the exhaust it'll sound like absolute fart can ricer ass. That's why i don't have the pcd....
no codes with the PCD and apparently it'll give like 25whp after tune (if those dyno sheets are accurate...)
The only problem is if you get the PCD and don't put a resonator in the exhaust it'll sound like absolute fart can ricer ass. That's why i don't have the pcd....
Yeah, I definitely want to steer clear from sounding like a 90's Busted Fart Can D-Series Civic.. And is this with the Stock Exhaust, or if I run a full Catback w no exhaust resonators and the PCD?
Yeah, I definitely want to steer clear from sounding like a 90's Busted Fart Can D-Series Civic.. And is this with the Stock Exhaust, or if I run a full Catback w no exhaust resonators and the PCD?
That's with the stock exhaust. you need install a resonator to get rid of the farting
Nice! Thx for sharing the Love and Knowledge guys! Looks like I swooped up my TSX just at the right time Super pumped to Know Hondata supports my Vehicle. The Rev Hang does bug me a little with the 6-MT, I almost have to baby each gear shift to have a smooth transition. And Dropping the Vtec Engagement a little lower in the Powerband would be really fun and nice, should hopefully give me the little extra "oomph" I am missing from coming from my J-spec V6 to the K24. I can't believe the Factory Setup Vtec doesn't engage until the Very Top of the Powerband when it starts to feel flat, although that could also be due to me being at such a high elevation (5000 ft above Sea Level).. The K24 does definitely exceed my expectations for a NA 4 Cyl I have to say, I definitely can feel a clear night/day difference from the few K20 Civic Si's I have drove in the past. However.., It doesn't really make sense to me that they only offered the SE paired with the K24 and didn't have an Option to mate a Manual to the V6 Engine. Also, Fuel Economy for me so far, has been exactly the same as my TL-S V6 Motor, which baffles me, having smaller/less displacement.
and Yea, I'm Probably going to leave The Intake system alone, Pulling the Intake Resonator out does sound somewhat tempting if it really is as restrictive as people are saying it is. Does that Eliminate or remove any Ducting that Routes airflow to the Airbox, or does it still have the proper tubing routed down to the foglamp area if I'm thinking correctly?
And the Vit Tune sounds pretty legit, I read probably the last 10 pages of this thread, and from what I've read, seems like he is the man to go to. How much does buying the FP and his E-Tune Combo Deal Run?
And as for the RV6 PCD/Headers, are the Gains really that substantial from that one little Bolt On? It does look Extremely Easy to Access and swap, (SO MUCH ROOM IN THIS ENGINE BAY!!) which is a completely different story for the J Pipe PCD's on my TL-S which I never had the chance to do But does yanking the PreCat Throw any CEL's for y'all? I guess the FP probably can override that issue lol.
All in All though, I will have to say I do love this TSX, Steering is unbelievably responsive and hairpin sharp, Solid Gearbox, although much shorter gearing coming from my TL, and Do love the Special Edition Trim Line Interior.
Sorry for the OT, hope I didn't derail this thread too much, Just super excited owning another solid Acura/Honda Product P.S., This Acurazine Community is one of the best/polite forums I've been on, Keep them Good Vibes Flowing
Package deal from Vit was $775
Originally Posted by iCrap
no codes with the PCD and apparently it'll give like 25whp after tune (if those dyno sheets are accurate...)
The only problem is if you get the PCD and don't put a resonator in the exhaust it'll sound like absolute fart can ricer ass. That's why i don't have the pcd....
So the PCD may give you a code. Had mine installed by a shop to specs and it will still throw a code if the car is cold and I get on it. I have a FP so it's turned off now. As for dyno, I will get my results but the best I can do is one with a tune and one without once my eTune is complete
Originally Posted by xtcnrice
^Also, IMO, deleting the intake resonator will only yield more sound. The butt dyno might tell you otherwise since it "feels" faster since the car appears to be screaming louder, but there's likely no noticeable difference. If you don't care about making it sound throatier, I say leave the intake resonator alone.
If you want more from your car, I'd go with the following mods (note: dealership may not grant warranty if these mods are on the car, but can be swapped back to stock more or less):
- Suspension upgrade (coilovers or struts/springs combination)
- Thicker rear sway bar
- Short shifter for your 6MT
These non-engine-related mods will really make this car shine IMO.
what iCrap said for short shifter and RSB. Too bad we're autotragic and can't take advantage of the short shifter
The PCD may throw a code. From the various RV6 PCD threads on the 2G subforum, the culprit is likely the positioning and tightness of the defouler. It must be tight (not hand tight), and it needs to point in a particular direction to be most effective in fooling the O2 sensor. But regardless, you can disable the code from FlashPro. I haven't ever thrown a code, but I only had the PCD on for about maybe 3k km before I got the FlashPro. YMMV I suppose. As for gains, the PCD and FlashPro (independently and coherently) both certainly have noticeable gains. On a 6MT, it dyno'd at near +25whp after a tune. HOWEVER, this dyno does include a Takeda CAI, so take that with a grain of salt. Naturally, it'll be less on a 5AT.
As for engine mods, I'm running both PCD and FP on a stock exhaust. For bolt-on NA applications, this should be fine. But like iCrap said, it'll sound like iCrap without chopping up your catback and installing a second resonator. I believe Vibrant ultra quiet or something rather is the most talked about to mediate the issue on our cars. Some others have had luck with running aftermarket catback exhausts, but obviously this is a bigger gamble as it'll cost more, and if you're not into getting a tone that's different from stock, then I'd say just do the second resonator and be done with it.
From a non-turbo application perspective, this car would've had more potential if the head didn't have an integrated exhaust mani. Hence we have PCDs and not headers. Oh well.
Our cars really shine in MPG on the highway. In the city it's pretty terrible lol. The K series engines aren't really well known for high MPGs. A local friend of mine had a K-swapped DC2, and with all things considered (I know, I'm sure there are a lot of other mods going on here if he went all out and did a K-swap), his MPGs were horrible from what he said lol
Anybody know what the difference is between the two base maps that are provided by Hondata for our car, one says tuned/speed density map the other does not.. ?
Anybody know what the difference is between the two base maps that are provided by Hondata for our car, one says tuned/speed density map the other does not.. ?
Lol there are two maps curt.. It's just that vit's last few cals have my car slow as shit right now which has been great for breaking in my clutch.. But I have 500 miles on it now so I'm ready to dump that shit lol
When I open a new calibration I just get the attached. Stock sucks lol. His first few tunes will be for normal driving below VTEC. So you won't really see good power until about the 5-7th tune but even then it's not tuned for VTEC. I'm on the 8th tune (1-7) were driveabilty up to 5K RPM with a pull to 5500, 8th and up I'm guessing is for VTEC because the activation is low and the pulls are from 2k-7500.
If you've gotten that far I would go to a tune around 1.5 or 1.6. I cannot drive on the 1.8 because I step on the gas and it would be in VTEC and contrary to what people say (wanting to lower VTEC) it's not good to just lower it randomly. Can't wait until it's done. I feel it won't be long now
When I open a new calibration I just get the attached. Stock sucks lol. His first few tunes will be for normal driving below VTEC. So you won't really see good power until about the 5-7th tune but even then it's not tuned for VTEC. I'm on the 8th tune (1-7) were driveabilty up to 5K RPM with a pull to 5500, 8th and up I'm guessing is for VTEC because the activation is low and the pulls are from 2k-7500.
If you've gotten that far I would go to a tune around 1.5 or 1.6. I cannot drive on the 1.8 because I step on the gas and it would be in VTEC and contrary to what people say (wanting to lower VTEC) it's not good to just lower it randomly. Can't wait until it's done. I feel it won't be long now
We just got done comparing WOT pulls on 3 diff 1.6 cal's before the clutch install, I believe I'm on 1.8 currently and VTEC is still set wayyyy super low like 3700rpm I believe.. Yes under partial throttle the car feels fine but when it hits the lower vtec window my car chokes out like crazy during the WOT pulls for datalogging.. I just reached 500 miles (been city driving non stop any chance I get lol) and I want to see what this puta has in her now.. I know the base cal sux but it's better than trying to drive hard on a map that is def not designed for that.
We just got done comparing WOT pulls on 3 diff 1.6 cal's before the clutch install, I believe I'm on 1.8 currently and VTEC is still set wayyyy super low like 3700rpm I believe.. Yes under partial throttle the car feels fine but when it hits the lower vtec window my car chokes out like crazy during the WOT pulls for datalogging.. I just reached 500 miles (been city driving non stop any chance I get lol) and I want to see what this puta has in her now.. I know the base cal sux but it's better than trying to drive hard on a map that is def not designed for that.
Yes that's what I mean use one of the 1.6 maps. Those drive really well. Mine just happened to be 1.7 when he did the compare. I do a lot of mixed driving and when I'm on the highway this map is awesome. I'm at 100 without even trying. Can't wait for the VTEC portion to be tuned. Also the top end is almost stock anyway so he half tune would be better than the stock one.
When I open a new calibration I just get the attached. Stock sucks lol. His first few tunes will be for normal driving below VTEC. So you won't really see good power until about the 5-7th tune but even then it's not tuned for VTEC. I'm on the 8th tune (1-7) were driveabilty up to 5K RPM with a pull to 5500, 8th and up I'm guessing is for VTEC because the activation is low and the pulls are from 2k-7500.
If you've gotten that far I would go to a tune around 1.5 or 1.6. I cannot drive on the 1.8 because I step on the gas and it would be in VTEC and contrary to what people say (wanting to lower VTEC) it's not good to just lower it randomly. Can't wait until it's done. I feel it won't be long now
There's two base maps for 09-10 and only 1 base map for 11+
I gotta admit guys.. Anyone who is going to do extensive flashing/reflashing of the ECU, this WinBook has been awesome! It's small enough to fit in console bin, and perfect for size and weight. This has been so much easier than lugging my laptop down to my car every time.
02-11-2015, 03:02 PM
But does yanking the PreCat Throw any CEL's for y'all? I guess the FP probably can override that issue lol.
