haha I know what you mean. Definitely wanna see your tune progress though!

 

wait wut? you can't take 30 minutes on the weekend to change your own oil? It's way cheaper to buy the oil and filter rather than take it to somebody to do it.

 

The main gain in changing your own oil is a peace of mind. You don't know if the mechanic is using recycled oil (even if you gave him your own oil), or whether they even flushed the entire thing properly. It's not really about cost when it comes down to a basic oil change imo. I much rather do it myself for this reason.

 

It's one of the few times I get to just do something I enjoy doing, and spend time with my kids.

 

I'd rather pay the money for an oil change and leave the important stuff like installing my supercharger aftercooler and wiring to me.

Aint no one got time for routine maintenance. Give it to the mechanic and let them do it in 10min.

 

You lack time management skills Mr. blowjob.

 

Not worth it. The numbers don't lie

 

Not about the numbers. Engine oil is like the life blood in our engines.

 

I trust Honda to change my oil lol

 

Well... Honda doesn't change oil for cheap here in Canada... but neither is anything in Canada. Cheap oil changes here are usually independent single garage shops with a single mechanic trying to make a quick buck. 90% of the time they will change your oil with recycled oil and not use an OEM filter, etc. Guess it's different in US. Either way, I don't trust Honda to do my oil changes either. Some of those technicians don't have a clue what they're doing.

 

Yeah everything is expensive in Canada. I was there for like 2 seconds and got taxed out the booty + taking my US dollar at 1:1 haha

I'm a DIY'er for sure, I think most people know that about me haha. But to me cost/benefit wins out for paying for oil changes (and I even got screwed with my AC hose last time) The difference to me is that a transmission fluid change is nearly the same amount of work, yet it costs like $200 for a service center to do it. Where an oil change is about $10 in labor and maybe $20 in oil (just the reg stuff). So to me it's worth saving the time/hassle for that amount of money. But $200 is a different story...

We can move on to more important tuning topics now haha

 

Bought that WinBook from MicroCenter today. It's a pretty cool little tablet. Got flashpro manager running and also have my main desktop synced to it so I can pull any old info/cals and go.

Im excited for the mobility of this thing!

 

Yeah it's a pretty cool little tablet. Im thinking of swapping it with the nexus 7 that's already in my dash.

 

Just a quick general question: Can I flash my Flashpro inside then bring it to my car press the program button and it will upload to my ECU? Then once the flash is done do I need to keep it plugged in?

 

Pretty sure you have to start the flash through the PC. After it's done.. No you don't need to leave it plugged in.

 

You do NOT need to start it through the PC. However, I find it safer with the PC because it has a progress bar and actually says when it's complete. Storing it on the FP and using the Program button is a bit ambiguous as to when the flash is done.

 

I'm guilty of doing the quick jiffy lube stop cuz they use pennzoil and charge me 30 bucks cuz they know by now not to upsell me fucking windshield wipers or synthetic. And I watch them change it too. But I drive a shit ton and change my oil about once a month (every 2500 miles or so), most of the time I change it myself though.. But it is a lot easier just to watch somebody do that (oil disposal is a pain in the ass too)

 

2500 miles?? why so few miles between oil changes?

 

Yes, this is how I do all of my flashing.

 

Non synthetic?

She takes premium dude.... PREMIUM!!!!! and synthetic.

 

Lol nah she gets premium gas as recommended. But standard oil is fine.. I hate thinking the same oil has to sit in my motor for more than 5000 miles for me to get my money's worth with synthetic (call me oldskool).. And I'm pretty meticulous with fluid and oil maintenance.. But like joe I do my own transmission, radiator and brake bleeds and drain/fills cuz mechanics SUPER TAX for that shit

 

I always flash with the PC too haha. I like seeing the progress bar haha

 

Sorry for being off topic guys... but I'm going to admit I'm a complete idiot about brake fluid and bleeding the brakes. What do you use (specifically) for bleeding the brakes? Any particular kit? Or just a budget see-through hose in a water bottle sort of thing?

 

My apologies for replying joe.. But I don't have a flashpro, yet. And you flashpro guys are so cool hehe.. The water bottle trick works but I bough a "mityvac mv8000" from harbor freight for 35 bucks and it works like a champ.. I did replace with dot 4 instead of dot 3 though.

 

Sweet! Gonna pick this up thanks!!

 

o.k. So I downloaded the new firmware on my Hondata, and the checkmarks for 2279 is there.

Do I want it unchecked, or checked to "disable" the ECU from running this check and thus ending the CEL?

 

uhh disable it lol

I did the first day it came out. No more problems since.

 

So, uncheck it.

 

Yes, unchecked means Hondata forces the ECU to disregard the error.

 

Hooray!

I fixed the leaking tires yesterday....

I haven't driven it in like two months... the car just adds speed like crazy... Thinking about what tires and rims I should get.

I'd lose so much selling the kit right now, I can't hardly justify losing 3k on initial investment and I haven't even put 1k miles on the kit.

 

Get some 8-9 inch wide TE37s/RPF1s and try to fit some 245s up front. I don't think you can do 255s without fender work, but I'm not 100% sure.

I haven't updated my build thread... but I recently picked up a set of Michelin Pilot Super Sport off a guy who owns a BMW M235. The tires have seen less than 1km (one of them still has the Michelin sticker on it), they smell new, and I got the (staggered) set of 4 for $900 CAD (yes Canadian dollars). Fuck yes.

 

That's what I've been considering RPF1 or the new one I'm in love with which is the RS05RR...

So sweet....

 

rpf1 18 x 9.5 weight is: 17.87 lbs
RS05RR 18 x 9.5 weight is: 20.82

You just can't really beat the rpf1...

 

Yup, and it's a timeless style too. I believe 18" RPF1s are the way to go

 

I have 18x9.5 40 offset with 255/40/18 tires Yokohama YK580 and they fit ok unless you really lower it a ton, if you could find an off set in 45 that would be perfect

 

I am only down about an inch in the front and back, so I "should" be good I think.

 

That will look good with 255/40/18 in 40 or 45 offset flush with fenders will look beefy

 

Only potential problem is auto-x or making hard turns in general. The body roll may cause the fat tires to rub against the fenders a bit. But this won't be the case for regular driving. Nothing a fender roll can't solve, assuming he's up for it.

FYI, 18x9.5 +45 pokes ever so slightly. Maybe a few mm. I know because I ran 18x9.5 +45 previously. If it wasn't for running 235/40 in front, I'd probably rub since I'm lowered 2.x inches or more. You could try fitting 255s on a 8.5 +40, but it might waste some of your 255s' tire width. I'd say go with the 18x9.5 +45 RPF1s and roll fenders if you need.

 

Getting this back on track...

I saw on CU2 Squad that Dime's car was totaled. He's currently parting it out. Sad to see the car go right after he got his final calibration and after he contributed so much to this thread.

 

No way... Hope he's okay.