wsxcde

My 2011 TSX 4cyl AT started to vibrate on acceleration above 3000-4000 rpm around 40-60mph. The dealer said they could not reproduce the vibration during the test drive. But, they noticed excessive movement on both driveshafts and recommended me to replace the whole front axle (left, right, and intermediate driveshafts) for $2K+ in parts and about $3K total. Is it necessary to replace the whole front axle to fix the vibration? Can the vibration be fixed by replacing just some components in the axle instead of the whole axle? Thanks.

EzeE1o

i had similar symptoms at around 65k miles. Good thing i took it to the dealer, since they replaced both axles under warranty before it expired (70k miles). I'm at 115k and no sign of vibration still.
similar thread: link

wsxcde

Unfortunately, my 2011 TSX has 99K miles already and is out of warranty. So, the repair will be out of pocket.

Sheefo2k

I am in a similar situation as you. I have been experiencing the vibration you're exactly describing for roughly 4,000 miles. It's obviously getting worse over time and I have learned to gently accelerate to avoid it BUT I can totally still feel it. Also, I am noticing it more on the passenger side than the driver side. Now, back to your situation, I figured it was an expensive repair from what I heard on the forum but I did not think it was going to be ~$3,000.00! My car has 138K and I don't know if spending $3,000.00 will be really worth it.

Ps. Mine is also 2011

BROlando

After replacing a few axle sets for only a temporary fix...and having the same result after rebuilding OEM ones on my own...I started looking at other options.

I noted while rebuilding my axles, that the pitting in the cups wasnt THAT bad. Not bad enough to cause a massive vibration that shook the items in the car.

So I did the next logical thing and replaced the intermediate shaft carrier bearing.

It was cheap to replace and my car is smooth as silk now. Lets hope it lasts.

I think that since my carrier bearing had play, the small amount of axle cup pitting was actually pulling/pushing on the intermediate shaft and the entire intermediate shaft/passenger axle assembly was shaking.

This is also why most people have better luck when replacing the PASSENGER axle. A new axle has no pits. But its a temporary fix. The carrier bearing movement accelerates the pitting on the axle and the process starts up again in 6 months or so.

Try the intermediate shaft bearing first. My 178K mile axles on my lowered 1st gen are not pitted enough to cause a shake.

Sheefo2k

You didn't by chance take any photos of the rebuild? All my previous cars were RWD, I have ZERO knowledge of axles and especially FWD axles. What exactly is the intermediate shaft? and it;s bearing?

BROlando

Its between the transmission and passenger side axle shaft.

Sheefo2k

Very informative, thank you!

Did you experience clunking whenever you went over harsh bumps or cracks n the pavement? Also lately, during high speed braking the car will shake as if the rotors are warped. (But they are not)

BROlando

I suppose an axle/intermediate shaft issue could cause clunks...but its less likely.


Clunking over bumps and braking vibrations could he caused by worn out ball joints or bushings.

Cheapest way to check whether it was your brakes is to replace the rotors and see what happens. How do you know its not the brakes that are pulsing?

Rotors not being warped is a safe bet...as they would need like 2500F to soften up enough to warp. But how do you know its not pulsing caused by brakes.

wsxcde

Thanks for all the replies. I decided to take a chance and took my car to a local mechanic. They replaced the left and right CV axles (not intermediate) with some aftermarket parts. Unfortunately, they did mark up aftermarket parts by quite a bit. The repair costed me $540 (parts, labor, and tax). I only took a short test drive on local street and freeway today. So far so good. There was no vibration on acceleration.

msharifi

Hi are you saying the intermediate shaft fixed the issue? I have the same problem and wondering how to figure out which axel is bad as I don't want to change a good axel but I did get a intermediate shaft.

Thanks

Thanks

Sheefo2k

Yup, It was definitely pulsating because of the brakes. The intermittent passenger side clunking and vibration is still there.

Well, I had the dealership resurface the rotors and install new pads on all 4 corners. While it was there, they changed transmission fluid, motor oil and filter, coolant, brake fluid and tire rotation. They "performed" a complete inspection and according to them everything is perfect and the car doesn't need anything, funny. The car drives much much better but the vibration when accelerating is still present. The vibration is not as severe as before I serviced the car, so that's a good thing but its there.

The mechanic shop near my office quoted me a reasonable price to replace the axles with aftermarket ones and offered 3 year/36,000 mile warranty but I am skeptical on how they will handle the warranty when time comes and if they will try to blame it on something else. Interesting fact, they were not able to find an aftermarket part for the intermediate shaft. After I explained to him what I was referring to, he was able to find it but only through Honda.

Part of me is thinking about bringing the wagon in to the dealership and have them replace JUST the intermediate shaft, but we will see.

Sheefo2k

Are you planning on doing the labor yourself?
The reason I am asking is because if you were planning on doing the labor yourself then you could simply just replace the intermediate shaft, and see if the vibration goes away. I REALLY think the vibration is stemming directly from the intermediate shaft bearing if the axles are good. If the vibration is persists, then replace one of the axles or both.

msharifi

im going to
do the labor my self.

Sheefo2k

If its not a lot of work, could you please take pictures along the way to help us out? I wouldn't mind tackling this issue myself in the summer when the weather warms up. o

On a separate note, the vibration is totally amplified when the weather warms up and practically gone when the weather is cold. Could be the result of different metals expanding at different rates resulting in play when the weather is warm and vice versa.

Sheefo2k

well approx 2,000 miles later and now my awesome car is pulling to the right whenever I accelerate, and pulls to the left once I let off the gas or press the brake pedal. It’s VERY noticeable and border line dangerous. I had an alignment performed a year ago after I installed my coilovers and rear SPC camber arms. With the current awful road conditions, it’s possible that my alignment is now bad or possibly my tie rods or axles are finally completely failing.

I will update this thread once I have time to bring it in to the dealership and report back on their findings.

BROlando

Could need another alignment.

Or your air pressures are off from one side to the other.

Or maybe your LCA bushings are worn.

Let us know what you find.

msharifi

How do you know if its the left or right axle that is bad?

allepunta

2012 euro accord tourer here. Had the same problem car would vibrate whem accelerating between 90-110 kph.
Ichanged this and problem solved: https://www.heeltoeauto.com/honda-ge...acura-tsx.html

msharifi

Hi all,

I wanted to update on the vibration.. I finally replaced the driver side Axle and the joint closer to the tire was flimsy not stiff like the new one. After replacing the vibration is gone.

Tsx780

damn wish i would of seen this thread earlier, theres a company called raxles.com that makes high quality and very close to oem parts. Usually most aftermarker axles are garbage but raxles are great quality

msharifi

$300 plus the core with Raxles I think it’s steep price.