xtcnrice

Omg that's fucking scary... I'm guessing at least one person died since the video started with a message that had "RIP" in it. Really sad.


edit (reposting):

opboarding

I think mine came with a small pouch of grease. If yours doesn't then it wouldn't hurt to grease them up.

xtcnrice

Thanks OP. How long have you had the bar on? Any issues with noise?

iCrap

One died four injured. They also were standing where they weren't allowed to stand.

on the rsb: mine dosen't make any noise but I was pretty liberal with the grease. I was sure to put a lot... because on my dad's car the noises it made were freaking horrible until we re-greased it for a 2nd time. Didn't want to do that with mine.

iCrap

oh yeah be careful with your endlinks. the end strips really easily. I had to order 1 new one

xtcnrice

It stripped when you tried to remove the nut that was holding the allen key type bolt? I'm worried about this cuz it's also my DD

Harper

Can't watch the video anymore.

iCrap

Yeah the stupid allen key shit broke. It's a stupid design. I amazon prime'd it so i had no car for only a day.

I replaced it with the Moogs one which you can use two wrenches on instead of a wrench + allen key. maybe you just want to have peace of mind and order 2 of them. It's only like $20.

iCrap

yea looks like all the links were removed now.... Not surprising.

robpp

iTrader: (2)

spray the allen area with your rust buster for a bit.
then attempt. mine came right off.


also, yu shud have 2 sets of bushings. i bought the greasable ones extra.
use them. otherwise if you need grease you have to remove the bushing.

and use special POLY grease. its almost clear and real sticky.

xtcnrice

I'm gonna take my chances . Parts in Canada are like doubled the cost... plus with the exchange rate, probably gonna end up being like $50 lol

xtcnrice

Thanks Rob. I bought Prothane grease for poly bushings. Something like this:
Prothane 191750 - Super Grease 3 Pack. Prothane 19-1750-BL

iCrap

My second one came right off, dunno why the first one was such a bitch. Anyways yea do what rob said, spray some rust off stuff or liquid wrench on first. If you break one you can always just Amazon it overnight

xtcnrice

Should I apply antiseize when putting the bolts back in? Any bolts I should NOT be applying antiseize onto? Only thing I've heard not to apply it onto are wheel studs. Sorry for the ignorance.

iCrap

I guess if you really wanted you, you could put some antiseize on the endlinks... but not necessary or needed.

ssjoeboe9

It had like zero problems doing the rsb. No end link trouble and all the bolts were really easy to get off. Just had to drill two holes and that was that.

opboarding

My RSB has been on since January 14th, 2012. No problems at all with it. I've found the softer setting to be much better for me.

iCrap

why didn't you like the stiffer stetting?

opboarding

I don't really know, I just remember it feeling too stiff. I changed it about 2 years ago, so I've mostly forgotten what the other setting felt like at this point.

opboarding

Also, here is a video for those interested about water on collonite 845 to show it is in fact pretty waterproof.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw2_...ature=youtu.be

iCrap

ooh them water beads. How long does that stuff last though? I put on some chemical guys stuff and the effect was gone in a few months.

opboarding

I watched a video after I uploaded where it was still beading after 2 months. That is plenty of time for me.

robpp

iTrader: (2)

yup thats the stuff. wear disposable gloves.....its the stickiest shot you ever seen LOL

iCrap

Is anyone else's door sills really rusty? Since I had it out i decided to try and refinish it...

Sanded all the crap off with a 3m pad and sprayed a coat of high gloss clear. idk why Acura didn't coat it in the first place. all 4 of mine are super rusty


super shiny now, even though now its just temporary until the new ones come...

Jaheri_cbp

Mine are still super mint I just wipe them down with every car wash... But I live in Florida...

Just pulled the trigger.. Stage 1 exedy clutch and rsx type s flywheel is coming soon.. Hopefully installed by the beginning of next week along with my new CMC and modded CSC..

iCrap

csc?

Jaheri_cbp

Clutch slave cylinder, I took the delay valve out

Jaheri_cbp

My RSB went on trouble free as well Xtc.. The bar brand new did come with grease as was said earlier.. It was a smaller tube but was enough to completely coat both of the included bushings very well

cu2wagon

Question about all this RSB talk:
I understand the Progress bar needs the mounting holes in the chassis reamed open to fit the oversized bolts. Does anyone know definitively *why* the Progress bar needs the oversized bolts?

I suspect that it's because the larger bar will be stiffer and transfers more stress into the pivots so the larger bolts provides more margin to yield. I have some reservations about drilling out the mount and not being able to reverse the mod in the future and was wondering why they don't just go with higher strength fasteners. Unless the tapped threads are the weakest link and the bolt with backer plate is addressing it?

I suppose I could go calculate the old/new stress ratios and bolt strengths but I figured someone else might have already looked into it.

So yeah, anyone know for sure?

iCrap

I feel like they were just playing it safe with the larger bolts and reinforcement plate. I was doing some googling before i got mine and there are tons of horror stories of people tearing off their rsb mounting points right off the frame.

I think it would be reversible but you just have to get some new bolts i guess.... rob did it. Rob what did you do about the larger hole?

It's interesting though, my friend just got the progress RSB for his RDX and i noticed it doesn't come with any bigger bolts or reinforcement, you just re use the current one. So i wonder why they decided that was adequate.

cu2wagon

Yeah, I was thinking that going back to stock could be as simple as using a longer version of the stock bolt with a nut on the back side.

Maybe I'll look at the maths to figure out the pullout force for the stock tapped threads. Intuitively, I just don't see a radical advantage to the larger bolts since it's only a step or two larger, if I remember correctly.

xtcnrice

Thanks for all of the comments/input on the RSB guys. I really appreciate it!

Now, I cheaped out and will be reusing the OEM endlinks. Do you guys suspect using the "stiffer" setting to be unsafe with the OEM endlinks?

I'm also lowered on TEIN Street Basis and will be installing a rear camber kit soon, if that matters at all. I doubt it but figured I'd list them anyway since they're all suspension related.

Oh and nice video OP. I love the Collinite stuff. Best part is, that bottle will probably last you a life time if you're using it correctly!

edit:
No plans on tracking the car, but I will be taking some turns harder than usual since I should be able to after upgrading the RSB.

musty hustla

Are the HDD nav update DVDs transferrable? The terms and conditions suggest that it is.

ssjoeboe9

I seriously installed the RSB with the hardware they gave me and never looked back. Put it on the stiffer setting and enjoy.

Your rear end can slide out now.. it's cool

iCrap

Thicker endlinks don't do ANYTHING. The progress ones literally, will do nothing. I have one OEM and one Moogs.

And yea sliding the back out is fun... now that i figured out how to do it, I do it all the time lol.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

yeah, the only reason why you should upgrade to moogs endlinks is if you're in an area where snow and salt are....

the moogs are designed to not bind as easily as OEM.

cu2wagon

Yeah, I think I know what your 12k issue is all about...

Quit driving like a maniac.

iCrap

lol yeah that might have something to do with it...

robpp

iTrader: (2)

the progress bar uses Energy suspension busings and bushing brackets.
they require the larger hole.

when i went back to stock I bought a new set of energy suspension bushings that fit the oem bar. a little black paint and all looks good and oem.

i also looked at just reusing the oem hardware and with some good washers I dont think you would have a problem. you dont enlarge the hole all that much.
you cant get a larger bolt because the oem has the nut welded on.






lets stop the BS. the Progress endlinks ARE A VAST IMPROVEMENT OVER STOCK.

i bought them and can tell you they are worth every penny.
anyone who has a comment that has NOT used them or tried them is full of shit/

xtcnrice

Lol yeah I've been doing some reading. The endlinks are literally what connects the bar to your car. If the mounting plate/bracket isn't the first thing to break off the car, the endlinks are likely the next most vulnerable thing. However, I also read that this isn't a required item unless you AutoX/track the car, since DD usage should mean less hard turns in the same period of time.

However no one on this forum seems to track their CU2 (except maybe maiku at the time), and I feel there is a correlation with why no one has reported a busted end link due to the thicker RSB.

I'm gonna skip the Progress/Moog endlinks and only upgrade if mine decide to break on me. I will not be tracking this car so I don't think I'll see any issues down the road. Thanks everyone!