seafoamed the 'ol TL
#241
Go back thru this thread from the beginning and see the many pics with circles and arrows and description of the pic
#242
Safety Car
iTrader: (6)
Man it was some scary shit. I feed the seafoam, the first time my engine stalled out. So I turned the car back on. The second time it drank it all. Then I turned the car off, BUT the engine was still on? Why is that? IT sputtered then off. Turned it back on 10 mins later and shit load of smoke. I think I will be sea foaming again tommorow, I didnt feel that much of a differ.
#244
Pretty much- yep
Seafoam is the main product used by the fuel injection service machine
Engine runon is indicative of carbon loading
Use a little throttle as you add the seafoam to prevent stalling and let it sit 15 minutes
before you restart- then a good 20 minute freeway blast at 4000 rpm
Make sure to add some to the gas tank too, that cleans out the entire injection lines and spray nozzles- very important
Seafoam is the main product used by the fuel injection service machine
Engine runon is indicative of carbon loading
Use a little throttle as you add the seafoam to prevent stalling and let it sit 15 minutes
before you restart- then a good 20 minute freeway blast at 4000 rpm
Make sure to add some to the gas tank too, that cleans out the entire injection lines and spray nozzles- very important
#245
Safety Car
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Pretty much- yep
Seafoam is the main product used by the fuel injection service machine
Engine runon is indicative of carbon loading
Use a little throttle as you add the seafoam to prevent stalling and let it sit 15 minutes
before you restart- then a good 20 minute freeway blast at 4000 rpm
Make sure to add some to the gas tank too, that cleans out the entire injection lines and spray nozzles- very important
Seafoam is the main product used by the fuel injection service machine
Engine runon is indicative of carbon loading
Use a little throttle as you add the seafoam to prevent stalling and let it sit 15 minutes
before you restart- then a good 20 minute freeway blast at 4000 rpm
Make sure to add some to the gas tank too, that cleans out the entire injection lines and spray nozzles- very important
#246
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question and sorry if it is a dumb one. Based on the photos of the vaccuum line I use to suck the seafoam up.....what end do I use? The end that connect by the PCV valve or the other end? Thanks all!
#247
The end that comes from the back of the engine- across and over to the driver side, inner fenderwell area.
Where is goes to that plastic thing with another hose coming off of it, you are there.
The VACUUM part of all this comes from the engine pulling air thru that hose into the intake manifold. This is a small amount of the total vac created by the engine, but plenty to suck fluid from a can. Set the can on top of the ATF filler plug, then tilt as needed when almost empty.
Where is goes to that plastic thing with another hose coming off of it, you are there.
The VACUUM part of all this comes from the engine pulling air thru that hose into the intake manifold. This is a small amount of the total vac created by the engine, but plenty to suck fluid from a can. Set the can on top of the ATF filler plug, then tilt as needed when almost empty.
#249
Acura NOW says that new cars should have the fuel injector cleaning service every
15 thousand miles
That promotes clean burning engines and improved economy to the operator.
So a can or 2 of seafoam now, and then again every year is a cheap investment.
I bug my neighbors to do their cars too!
15 thousand miles
That promotes clean burning engines and improved economy to the operator.
So a can or 2 of seafoam now, and then again every year is a cheap investment.
I bug my neighbors to do their cars too!
#250
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sorry for my stupid, just want to make it clear before i do this
so, 3 questions here
1. I need to pull out the hose, which the red arrow points to, right?
2. then, should I use that hose to vacuum the seafoam? or do i need get another hose to connect with another end (engine side), and vacuum the seafoam?
3. I saw there is a similar hose close to PCV hose, what is that?
thanks
#251
Follow the hose from the center rear of engine- thats the one you are going to disconnect and use. When you remove it from its clips, its long enough to reach into the can as described above. You cannot go wrong if you simply look under the hood
#252
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one more question,
1. which order i should follow, oil tank -> engine oil -> PCV ? or some other order?
2. When i pull out the PCV hose, should I leave the engine on or off?
wow, seems ask too many questions here, thank s
1. which order i should follow, oil tank -> engine oil -> PCV ? or some other order?
2. When i pull out the PCV hose, should I leave the engine on or off?
wow, seems ask too many questions here, thank s
#254
Please go back to the start of this thread and read through the post
Every question has been asked and answered dozens of times
Pics and tips on each part
Do a little research
Every question has been asked and answered dozens of times
Pics and tips on each part
Do a little research
#255
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Originally Posted by kevin0171
one more question,
1. which order i should follow, oil tank -> engine oil -> PCV ? or some other order?
2. When i pull out the PCV hose, should I leave the engine on or off?
wow, seems ask too many questions here, thank s
1. which order i should follow, oil tank -> engine oil -> PCV ? or some other order?
2. When i pull out the PCV hose, should I leave the engine on or off?
wow, seems ask too many questions here, thank s
hey kevin, ur on my msn rite? .. i'll tell u.. in fact.. we'll meet up sometime and i'll show u how its done in person.. VERY SIMPLE.. after u do it the first time, u get the hand of it.
plus i want to see ur TL... and share mods.
#256
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by kevin0171
one more question,
1. which order i should follow, oil tank -> engine oil -> PCV ? or some other order?
2. When i pull out the PCV hose, should I leave the engine on or off?
wow, seems ask too many questions here, thank s
1. which order i should follow, oil tank -> engine oil -> PCV ? or some other order?
2. When i pull out the PCV hose, should I leave the engine on or off?
wow, seems ask too many questions here, thank s
2. running! other wise it wont be able to suck the fluid into the motor
Originally Posted by cjde2006
just bought 2 cans....1 for the intake and 1/2 for crankcase 1/2 for fuel tank. Cant wait to try it
#257
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Originally Posted by t7n7
hey kevin, ur on my msn rite? .. i'll tell u.. in fact.. we'll meet up sometime and i'll show u how its done in person.. VERY SIMPLE.. after u do it the first time, u get the hand of it.
plus i want to see ur TL... and share mods.
plus i want to see ur TL... and share mods.
(i did msn you many times, but your status were always busy or away...)
#258
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
1. No order needed. just add them any way you want
2. running! other wise it wont be able to suck the fluid into the motor
Id use 3. 1 for each
2. running! other wise it wont be able to suck the fluid into the motor
Id use 3. 1 for each
i mean before i pull out the PCV hose(before suck the seafoam), should i run the engine first, then pull out the PCV, then suck the seafoam.
Or just turn off the engine, pull out the PCV hose, then turn on the engine, then suck the seafoam.
thanks
#259
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Originally Posted by t7n7
hey kevin, ur on my msn rite? .. i'll tell u.. in fact.. we'll meet up sometime and i'll show u how its done in person.. VERY SIMPLE.. after u do it the first time, u get the hand of it.
plus i want to see ur TL... and share mods.
plus i want to see ur TL... and share mods.
#260
kevin
Yes you got it right
Engine off to remove VAC line and then remove it from its clips so it will be long enough to reach the can when set on ATF filler bolt
Start engine and dip and remove the tube to prevent stalling- car runs on gas not solvent
Use thumb on other hand to push throttle to keep engine running
IMPORTANT Engine needs to be warm to help dissolve stuff so a 5 or 10 minute drive to warm everything should be done first, then the treatment
Turn off engine after can empty, put hose back in clips and make sure if end needs to be trimmed for tight fit on plastic port.
Do some other maitenance for 15 to 30 minutes and then restart- be prepared for smoke from solvent burnoff
Freeway run at 4000 rpm and use vtec several times to really heat up the loose stuff and process it through
Normal for CEL check engine to come on and will clear itself
Try to do at a time when smoke trail will not hamper traffic- like at night on backroad
Change the oil and filter right away after adding to crankcase thru oil filler cap.
Meaning dont drive 500 miles- drive none, just idle for 5-10 minutes or under 50 miles and change- because it removes huge amounts of stuff and puts it in the oil.
Have fun and get your neighbors and friends to use it too
Yes you got it right
Engine off to remove VAC line and then remove it from its clips so it will be long enough to reach the can when set on ATF filler bolt
Start engine and dip and remove the tube to prevent stalling- car runs on gas not solvent
Use thumb on other hand to push throttle to keep engine running
IMPORTANT Engine needs to be warm to help dissolve stuff so a 5 or 10 minute drive to warm everything should be done first, then the treatment
Turn off engine after can empty, put hose back in clips and make sure if end needs to be trimmed for tight fit on plastic port.
Do some other maitenance for 15 to 30 minutes and then restart- be prepared for smoke from solvent burnoff
Freeway run at 4000 rpm and use vtec several times to really heat up the loose stuff and process it through
Normal for CEL check engine to come on and will clear itself
Try to do at a time when smoke trail will not hamper traffic- like at night on backroad
Change the oil and filter right away after adding to crankcase thru oil filler cap.
Meaning dont drive 500 miles- drive none, just idle for 5-10 minutes or under 50 miles and change- because it removes huge amounts of stuff and puts it in the oil.
Have fun and get your neighbors and friends to use it too
#261
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
kevin
Yes you got it right
Engine off to remove VAC line and then remove it from its clips so it will be long enough to reach the can when set on ATF filler bolt
Start engine and dip and remove the tube to prevent stalling- car runs on gas not solvent
Use thumb on other hand to push throttle to keep engine running
IMPORTANT Engine needs to be warm to help dissolve stuff so a 5 or 10 minute drive to warm everything should be done first, then the treatment
Turn off engine after can empty, put hose back in clips and make sure if end needs to be trimmed for tight fit on plastic port.
Do some other maitenance for 15 to 30 minutes and then restart- be prepared for smoke from solvent burnoff
Freeway run at 4000 rpm and use vtec several times to really heat up the loose stuff and process it through
Normal for CEL check engine to come on and will clear itself
Try to do at a time when smoke trail will not hamper traffic- like at night on backroad
Change the oil and filter right away after adding to crankcase thru oil filler cap.
Meaning dont drive 500 miles- drive none, just idle for 5-10 minutes or under 50 miles and change- because it removes huge amounts of stuff and puts it in the oil.
Have fun and get your neighbors and friends to use it too
Yes you got it right
Engine off to remove VAC line and then remove it from its clips so it will be long enough to reach the can when set on ATF filler bolt
Start engine and dip and remove the tube to prevent stalling- car runs on gas not solvent
Use thumb on other hand to push throttle to keep engine running
IMPORTANT Engine needs to be warm to help dissolve stuff so a 5 or 10 minute drive to warm everything should be done first, then the treatment
Turn off engine after can empty, put hose back in clips and make sure if end needs to be trimmed for tight fit on plastic port.
Do some other maitenance for 15 to 30 minutes and then restart- be prepared for smoke from solvent burnoff
Freeway run at 4000 rpm and use vtec several times to really heat up the loose stuff and process it through
Normal for CEL check engine to come on and will clear itself
Try to do at a time when smoke trail will not hamper traffic- like at night on backroad
Change the oil and filter right away after adding to crankcase thru oil filler cap.
Meaning dont drive 500 miles- drive none, just idle for 5-10 minutes or under 50 miles and change- because it removes huge amounts of stuff and puts it in the oil.
Have fun and get your neighbors and friends to use it too
thanks guys, probably I'll make a video when i seafoam...haha
#262
Racer
After reading this, I decided to do mine as well. I had to remove the motor mount sensor from the bracket to get a good hold of the vacuum line and remove it. I did the intake and the gas, but I'll wait and do the crankcase right before an oil change soon.
I did get the white smoke in a nice little plume, but nothing like on that video. It did seem to make a little improvement, but I try to always use Chevron 93 fuel and Lucas fuel treatment and Mobil 1 oil...so I'm sure mine wasn't as gunky as some. Good stuff though...I love this forum!
I did get the white smoke in a nice little plume, but nothing like on that video. It did seem to make a little improvement, but I try to always use Chevron 93 fuel and Lucas fuel treatment and Mobil 1 oil...so I'm sure mine wasn't as gunky as some. Good stuff though...I love this forum!
#263
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I did mine this afternoon on my lunch break. Used the whole can through the vac. line....let it sit for 30 mins, then ran the hell out of it.....Talk about a lot of smoke!! WOW!
Question: Is the amount of smoke you see an indication of the amount of carbon buildup in your engine???
Question: Is the amount of smoke you see an indication of the amount of carbon buildup in your engine???
#264
Its more an indicator of how much solvent is in the system- thats most of the smoke trail at the start- then the hot freeway run gets rid of the carbon
Make sure to run some in the fuel to clean all the injectors and further clean the valves
Make sure to run some in the fuel to clean all the injectors and further clean the valves
#265
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Gotcha. I bought a second can today....I'm sitting just above 1/2 tank....I think I may wait until it's closer to empty so the Seafoam is more concentrated.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Its more an indicator of how much solvent is in the system- thats most of the smoke trail at the start- then the hot freeway run gets rid of the carbon
Make sure to run some in the fuel to clean all the injectors and further clean the valves
Make sure to run some in the fuel to clean all the injectors and further clean the valves
#268
Ehulk
Toss the rest of the can contents in the tank
You want a slightly diluted effect so it does a longer term scrub of the injectors
1/2 tank is a great place to do that from
Toss the rest of the can contents in the tank
You want a slightly diluted effect so it does a longer term scrub of the injectors
1/2 tank is a great place to do that from
#269
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Right on....Dumping the other can in tomorrow morning on my way to work.
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Ehulk
Toss the rest of the can contents in the tank
You want a slightly diluted effect so it does a longer term scrub of the injectors
1/2 tank is a great place to do that from
Toss the rest of the can contents in the tank
You want a slightly diluted effect so it does a longer term scrub of the injectors
1/2 tank is a great place to do that from
#270
I was reading the fine print on the Seafoam can about REALLY cleaning the injectors via the fuel tank method.
Standard cleaning dose is 1 Ounce per Gallon of fuel, so thats 1 pint can to 8 gallons or 1/2 tank of gas. It says use more for more cleaning, less for less.
So I put a cans worth into the 1/4 tank I had and am running that thru now.
Posting this because the directions most of us use say 1/3 can- and other members are using 1 can in a tank. So fear not, it's approved.
autozone has it on sale for 5.98, never hurts to run it in the fuel and keep everything clean, and do a super blast clean as needed.
Gas is 3.50 a gallon here and no sign of dropping. Clean systems get better mileage.
Standard cleaning dose is 1 Ounce per Gallon of fuel, so thats 1 pint can to 8 gallons or 1/2 tank of gas. It says use more for more cleaning, less for less.
So I put a cans worth into the 1/4 tank I had and am running that thru now.
Posting this because the directions most of us use say 1/3 can- and other members are using 1 can in a tank. So fear not, it's approved.
autozone has it on sale for 5.98, never hurts to run it in the fuel and keep everything clean, and do a super blast clean as needed.
Gas is 3.50 a gallon here and no sign of dropping. Clean systems get better mileage.
#271
08 Civic SI
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I was reading the fine print on the Seafoam can about REALLY cleaning the injectors via the fuel tank method.
Standard cleaning dose is 1 Ounce per Gallon of fuel, so thats 1 pint can to 8 gallons or 1/2 tank of gas. It says use more for more cleaning, less for less.
So I put a cans worth into the 1/4 tank I had and am running that thru now.
Posting this because the directions most of us use say 1/3 can- and other members are using 1 can in a tank. So fear not, it's approved.
autozone has it on sale for 5.98, never hurts to run it in the fuel and keep everything clean, and do a super blast clean as needed.
Gas is 3.50 a gallon here and no sign of dropping. Clean systems get better mileage.
Standard cleaning dose is 1 Ounce per Gallon of fuel, so thats 1 pint can to 8 gallons or 1/2 tank of gas. It says use more for more cleaning, less for less.
So I put a cans worth into the 1/4 tank I had and am running that thru now.
Posting this because the directions most of us use say 1/3 can- and other members are using 1 can in a tank. So fear not, it's approved.
autozone has it on sale for 5.98, never hurts to run it in the fuel and keep everything clean, and do a super blast clean as needed.
Gas is 3.50 a gallon here and no sign of dropping. Clean systems get better mileage.
#272
Right- I was saying that 1 can in 1/4 tank puts it at super strength cleaning mode and would compliment the vac tube service method well, 1 can in each and its on sale!!
#273
08 Civic SI
last time i bought 3 cans. 1 in da crank 1 in da vac tube one in the tank, at about 1/3 full. i love seafoam! the autozone near me always has it on sale for like 3.50
#274
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In all honesty I'm pretty newb when it comes to cars, especially my own. The only thing I've done is take apart my center console to get a coin stuck behind the coin holder. :\
I have a 99TL with 105K miles on it, I could definitely use it. Would a mechanic be able to do this for me? Or should I grow a pair and try to do this myself?
[edit]
Is there a DIY with pictures by any chance?
I have a 99TL with 105K miles on it, I could definitely use it. Would a mechanic be able to do this for me? Or should I grow a pair and try to do this myself?
[edit]
Is there a DIY with pictures by any chance?
#275
Banned
Originally Posted by sbuswell
so far it worked well on my TL and very well on my wifes 98 corolla w/155k on it. this stuff is for real.
IS THAT ALL CORRECT??
did you do that?
#276
SOLD: 03 SSM CLS Auto
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by MPX
In all honesty I'm pretty newb when it comes to cars, especially my own. The only thing I've done is take apart my center console to get a coin stuck behind the coin holder. :\
I have a 99TL with 105K miles on it, I could definitely use it. Would a mechanic be able to do this for me? Or should I grow a pair and try to do this myself?
[edit]
Is there a DIY with pictures by any chance?
I have a 99TL with 105K miles on it, I could definitely use it. Would a mechanic be able to do this for me? Or should I grow a pair and try to do this myself?
[edit]
Is there a DIY with pictures by any chance?
#277
08 Civic SI
Originally Posted by MPX
In all honesty I'm pretty newb when it comes to cars, especially my own. The only thing I've done is take apart my center console to get a coin stuck behind the coin holder. :\
I have a 99TL with 105K miles on it, I could definitely use it. Would a mechanic be able to do this for me? Or should I grow a pair and try to do this myself?
[edit]
Is there a DIY with pictures by any chance?
I have a 99TL with 105K miles on it, I could definitely use it. Would a mechanic be able to do this for me? Or should I grow a pair and try to do this myself?
[edit]
Is there a DIY with pictures by any chance?
#278
MPX
This is the DIY forum for seafoam- go back to page 1 and start reading and looking at pics
About page 8 there are some good extra tips as well.
This is the DIY forum for seafoam- go back to page 1 and start reading and looking at pics
About page 8 there are some good extra tips as well.