cbptls

VTEC, as illustrated from Honda's worldwide website.

bojangling

Anyone know the part number for the Vacuum line? Might as well replace it.

carl m

yes, that would help... if it's a fouled plug i'd assume you'd be tossing a misfire code. if it's a vacuum line, there may be some other codes related to that.

not necessarily catastrophic, but better to get the problem resolved sooner rather than later.

my question to you guys is this - will disconnecting the battery, then reconnecting it after a few minutes clear the CEL (assuming problem has been fixed)? --when i replaced the o2 sensor on my wife's CRV, that's how i was told to clear the CEL.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

If you possibly "gunked" up the plugs by not doing the drive after, if you Seafoamed again and did the drive would it get the old stuff out (from first botched Seafoam) too?

nollid

I thought I read on here that you can clear the CEL by pressing and holding the 'reset' and 'select' buttons on the dash then turn the car on then release them.

fsttyms1

No thats for the Maintenance required light.

Again to reset the CEL light Pull the clock Backup fuse for more than 10 seconds

01tl4tl

If the plugs got loaded-
pull 1 and check for black deposits and buildup in the electrode firing area, its better to replace and be done with it
Another seafoam may clean them off- but if they had weak enough spark to get fouled- spend money now- save money everyday!

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I think I might go ahead and get some when I get paid tomorrow. 6-7 bucks each at parts store?

02TLSfan

I think I paid $6.99 a piece for NGK Iridium at PepBoys because Autozone doesn't carry NGK.

01tl4tl

kragen and pepboys- under 7 bucks each

see DIY section for tips on rear plugs- requires 9 inch extension
or 3 and 6" combined to make it 9
rubber insert type plug socket very helpful
small 1$ thing of anti sieze for the threads too

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I've already done them before so it shouldn't be too bad. I think I may have gunked them up with the Seafoam a while back and need to get some new ones. It kind of lags when I first push the gas.

01tl4tl

run a can of seafoam in 1/4 tank of gas too- gets the injector spray pattern back to functioning

bojangling

Well, I pulled the fuse to reset the CEL, changed the plugs (they had obvious black buildup) and fired the car back up and no more rough idle! Thanks for the suggestions.

nollid

I recently bought my 99 TL w/ 67,000 miles on it. The orginal owner who I purchased it from said she brought it in for all the routine services. How would I know if I still have orginal spark plugs in there?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

You probably do. They don't need to be replaced til ~100K right?

02TLSfan

Yeah, it's part of the 105k service. For the unbelievable price of $26 a plug and $150 to install at a dealer.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Razzi

compare to the front plugs, how much harder/time-consuming are the rear plugs?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

maybe 5-10 min longer

take off the strut bar and it helps

01tl4tl

Just combine a 6 inch and 3 inch extension together for the socket when doing the rear plugs
there is a little place your hand and ratchet fit in the firewall even!
Lay across the engine sideways is easy

CrazyBabyDoc

Is it possible to maintain your car too well for seafoam to work?

My 02 TLS has nearly 100k on the odometer so I decided to 'foam it yesterday. 1 can in 1/4 tank of gas, 1/2 can in the vac line, and 1/2 can in the oil. I scarcely got enough smoke for a guinea pig to get a bong hit. I did get a very brief CEL before hitting the interstate but that's it.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Nice analogy about the smoke

How long did you let is sit after you did the vac line??

01tl4tl

If you do it with engine warm and let it sit about 15 minutes max- you should get some smoke- it varies

the initial smoke is mostly solvent burnoff- the real fun is the freeway blast- there is carbon crud smoke you dont see as you go full throttle and back down and repeat for 20 minutes=4000rpm

Make sure to change oil right away if you added to crankcase

CrazyBabyDoc

Engine was warm and then I let it sit for 20minutes or so before hitting I-40. It's not the first time I've 'foamed the car (about 30k ago) but it's the first time I put it in the vac line. Maybe there just wasn't much in there?

tst32tl

Wow.. thanks for all the info!!(after reading 17 pages of posting). Seems like seafoam work best when it's in the vac line and gas tank. Oil crank is good but not as good as the vac line and gas tank?!....

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

You would think that just because you don't really see all the smoke so it doesn't look like it's working, but you should still so the crankcase right before an oil change if you're doing the other two .

01tl4tl

Its about using a full can in the intake of a warmed engine- then waiting 5-15 minutes and the blast out- not cruising on freeway= blastout!!!
full can in 1/4 tank of gas

Sitting longer will result in less smoke because solvent evaps and grunge has a strong hold
Do it again in 2k miles with the oil too and then get it changed
She be golden then

FL3.2TL

Question to ask you.. Can you use seafoam ( atleast 1 can ) for the first two times, and then after half can to 75% for every oil change I get? You know just trying to keep the engine clean?

01tl4tl

Our Mod fsttyms1 uses a can in the oil before each change- mindful that he goes 8-10k miles between oil changes and his engine looked new inside at 200k !!!
Keeping the oil changed and using a good filter is primary

You do more good keeping some in the gas tank now and then, to keep the injectors clean.
With gas prices going up up and away, every bit helps~
I just tossed a can into 1/3 tank of gas to do a scrub before upcoming track day

kapslock

i just seafoamed my TL..and assuming i did it right, id like to do it on my brothers car...but he has a mitsubishi galant...my question is: how do i find the vacuum line in his car?? is there some generic way engines are set up or should i look for something ?? any advice would be helpful! thanks! about to go out for my fun drive!!!

01tl4tl

remove plastic cover over engine if like TL- look around the top rear of the intake manifold for a vac line- on the TL its dead center- cant miss it if you need to replace yours~

See smog decal for manifold vac source

revitupwriteitoff

I have 2 bottles of seafoam I bought for my old cars, but promptly traded them in for new cars

Anyone in Houston need a couple bottles?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Damn it rev, your avatar makes me want to throw up

revitupwriteitoff

read about it....it's an interesting thing!




and no one wants this stuff?

NDJ

Thought that I'd add to this short little thread. I seafoamed my '03 TL two days ago. I've got 97K on it and it's time to make it new for 100K.

Here's my experience: I put 1/2 can in the vacum hose (in a warm engine) and a whole can in 1/4 tank of gas. I let it sit for twenty minutes and then took it out on the highway. I really never got that much smoke. It produced quite a bit at start up along with a little rough idling. By the time I was out of my neighborhood (less than 2 minutes) that had all cleared up.

I've used Lucas in the tank about three times since hitting 50K miles with it. So is it safe to assume that the Seafoam has done it's job, that the white smoke that I saw was likely the residual seafoam burning off, and that the fact that there was not really a lot of smoke just means that things were fairly clean and in good shape to begin with?

I put the other 1/2 can of seafoam in the crankcase this morning and went for a few errands close by. I'm changing the oil this afternoon along with changing the plugs.

01tl4tl

You missed a step:

After letting sit 15 minutes MAX (want the stuff gooey and warm)
then its 4000 rpm on the freeway and a bunch of runs thru vtec to superheat the loosed junk and melt it-blow it out the exhaust

The initial smoke is solvent, then you get puffs while WOT runs- thats carbon etc.

Do 20 minutes of driving like that-with seafoam in the tank too- and all is well
Drive a couple of days before changing plugs- thats to make sure its nice and clean and you dont throw anything on the fresh parts

revit--you can use seafoam in the new car too- its ok

NDJ

Thanks 01tl4tl. I don't know why I thought I could wait 15 to 30 minutes. It says quite clearly on the can to restart after 5 minutes.

So basically, I let the engine cool too long for the seafoam to be as effective as it could have been. There shouldn't likely be any problem with running it through again, right? Would I be right in assuming that there is no need to run a full can through a 1/4 tank of gas until 2k miles from now since I did that at the same time I ran seafoam through the vacum line?

01tl4tl

The can directions are general for the public at large-
azine members found 15 minutes optimum soaking time while maintaining correct temp.

The full can in 1/4 tank of gas is to super-clean the injectors, 2 oz seafoam to 1 gal gas
Every 5000 miles, if you buy off-brand gas, do it again, otherwise once a year
I do it before trips to the mountains 2-3 times a year- it doesnt hurt to keep everything at peak performace, with rising gas cost vs heavy foot
Wont hurt to do it again soon, today if you want to
Can says do again in 2000 miles via intake- then its set for a year
also put some in lawn mower, boat etc for winter storage- see can directions

quesong

i have to do this~!

03TLS4me

I seafoamed my tl-s, adding 1 can to a 1/4 tank of fuel and drove it for awhile, seems to run even smoother than before. Also added 1 can thru the intake per the recommendations on this forum.

I got alot of smoke on start-up, which dissipated quickly, however I did get the check engine light to come on. I ended up pulling the clock backup fuse out (#13) & reinserted after 5 minutes, problem solved.

The car runs great, thanks!