seafoamed the 'ol TL
#361
I seafoamed via the brake booster line earlier today. I put it in and let it sit for 30 min. When I started it back up, there was no smoke. When I put the car in drive and gave it some gas, the car didn't move for a second. Then the car caught up and a huge cloud of white smoke came out. It lasted for about 15 seconds but that was it. For the first half mile, it kind of felt like the car was shifting kind of oddly and not engaging in gear. After about a mile, it seemed like everythying was fine. Has this happened to anyone else? My car has a little over 69k. Also, will having seafoam in the engine for about 30 miles or so cause any problems? With all the problems I'm having with trying to do a basic oil change, I don't want this to be a problem too.
#362
you put it in with the engine running right?
You can use the brake booster line- I think most of us use the vac line because its easy to get to and the seafoam can rest right on top of the ATF fill plug as you dip and remove the hose so engine does not die- all while other hands thumb blips throttle cable
30 miles in oil not a problem- the filter picks up what the seafoam breaks loose- thats the whole point!!
You can use the brake booster line- I think most of us use the vac line because its easy to get to and the seafoam can rest right on top of the ATF fill plug as you dip and remove the hose so engine does not die- all while other hands thumb blips throttle cable
30 miles in oil not a problem- the filter picks up what the seafoam breaks loose- thats the whole point!!
#363
apr
did you do the required 15-20 minute freeway blast with lots of vtec use at 4000 rpm
slow down back to speed at full throttle- slow down- back to speed
this is a good time to get the brakes warm and cleaned of glaze from wife driving in traffic
Seafoam works BEST if you do a warm up drive- then seafoam- use more than 1/3 can in each place-- it wont hurt it at all- then sit 5 to 15 minutes - not longer- you want to go for the blast out run with everything still warm and gooey so it doesnt just restick to the parts
did you do the required 15-20 minute freeway blast with lots of vtec use at 4000 rpm
slow down back to speed at full throttle- slow down- back to speed
this is a good time to get the brakes warm and cleaned of glaze from wife driving in traffic
Seafoam works BEST if you do a warm up drive- then seafoam- use more than 1/3 can in each place-- it wont hurt it at all- then sit 5 to 15 minutes - not longer- you want to go for the blast out run with everything still warm and gooey so it doesnt just restick to the parts
#364
0104TL,
I meant to say vac line and yes the car was on when I did it. I used the brake booster line in my other car. I did do the freeway blast at 4000 rpm in 3rd gear for about 15 minutes or so. I waited close to 30-45 minutes to go for the drive so maybe that contributed to what I felt.
I meant to say vac line and yes the car was on when I did it. I used the brake booster line in my other car. I did do the freeway blast at 4000 rpm in 3rd gear for about 15 minutes or so. I waited close to 30-45 minutes to go for the drive so maybe that contributed to what I felt.
#366
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
congrats
do it again in 2000 miles and then good for 15,000
use a full can in 1/4 gas tank- its ok and cleans the injectors spray pattern- a must for good mileage
then a can in a full tank as your start the trip- several hours of slow cleaning everything- now you are rockin
29 is normal- 32 is amazing on freeway
up the tire pressures a little too
do it again in 2000 miles and then good for 15,000
use a full can in 1/4 gas tank- its ok and cleans the injectors spray pattern- a must for good mileage
then a can in a full tank as your start the trip- several hours of slow cleaning everything- now you are rockin
29 is normal- 32 is amazing on freeway
up the tire pressures a little too
#367
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Originally Posted by dnd2984
what color is seafoam? The reason i ask is, when i use to buy it it was a greenish blue color, now it looks like the color of gas.
Yeah mine looked like gas so maybe they changed something about it.
#368
Prick of the month
Wow, it took me longer to read this thread than it did to seafoam the car. Sucked a can through the vacuum line and another in the fuel tank. Haven't seen that much smoke since my last house party. Going to do the crank case tomorrow and change the oil and plugs. My car runs so much better now.
#369
Wasnt the drive on the freeway really entertaining?
Give it a couple days of hot footing it to continue burning off the residue on the pistons and valves and the injectors get clean by gas pedal useage
then do the plugs
would you believe there are gen3 members who dont believe this stuff could possibly work- and yet here we have another amazed customer~
welcome to the sefoam lovers group- we meet every 6 months to freak out the neighborhood
Give it a couple days of hot footing it to continue burning off the residue on the pistons and valves and the injectors get clean by gas pedal useage
then do the plugs
would you believe there are gen3 members who dont believe this stuff could possibly work- and yet here we have another amazed customer~
welcome to the sefoam lovers group- we meet every 6 months to freak out the neighborhood
#370
Prick of the month
Hot footing it won't be a problem, that's how I drive. Yeah, this stuff is amazing, I'm going to get my friends with TLs to do this too. I think I may have bothered a couple neighbors, but the hell with them, most of the people here have more money than they know what to do with and I doubt any of them work on their cars or would have known what was up. Probably thought I had a fucked up Acura.
#371
Prick of the month
Just out of curiosity, what is the plug/connector I've circled in red. This was posted earlier in this thread and when I took the vacuum line off that piece I saw that I do not have that connector. Is this a problem? Does it just not exist on a Type-S or what?
#372
Dont worry about missing parts- its when you have extra parts......
To make sure I was clear about the hotfoot-
after the seafoam is added to warm running engine- then let it sit, engine off, for 5-15 minutes
then a 15 minute drive at 4000 rpm with lots of slowing down and full throttle with vtec use
to move the old bad gunge out
Small chance of loading up the plugs if not done- and plugs are high miles
Then a few days of hotfoot never hurt a TL
To make sure I was clear about the hotfoot-
after the seafoam is added to warm running engine- then let it sit, engine off, for 5-15 minutes
then a 15 minute drive at 4000 rpm with lots of slowing down and full throttle with vtec use
to move the old bad gunge out
Small chance of loading up the plugs if not done- and plugs are high miles
Then a few days of hotfoot never hurt a TL
#373
Prick of the month
Thanks. Yeah I did the 15 minute 4000 rpm drive with a lot of stopping, hopefully deglazed my brakes a little at the same time. I'm about to drive around some more, I don't want my plugs to crap out before I have a chance to change them.
#374
As long as you did the drive the plugs will be fine-
#376
I said hot foot not scorching ~
Did you enjoy the brake smell too?
Did you enjoy the brake smell too?
#377
Prick of the month
Yeah the brakes smelled awesome, made me want to not do it again for a while, until I have to bed new brakes and rotors when I replace them with aftermarket next time. I will not buy factory pads or rotors again.
#378
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someone should make a DIY and put it in teh DIY thread... imagine how hard it must be to find out how to do it.. unless it's on the first page.. haven't checked
edit:
checked first page.. found a link
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
but i still think someone should gather up the pix and make a tutorial
preferably a semi-fool-proof one
edit:
checked first page.. found a link
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
but i still think someone should gather up the pix and make a tutorial
preferably a semi-fool-proof one
#380
bringin lead
Originally Posted by GranSkyline
someone should make a DIY and put it in teh DIY thread... imagine how hard it must be to find out how to do it.. unless it's on the first page.. haven't checked
edit:
checked first page.. found a link
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
but i still think someone should gather up the pix and make a tutorial
preferably a semi-fool-proof one
edit:
checked first page.. found a link
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm
but i still think someone should gather up the pix and make a tutorial
preferably a semi-fool-proof one
#384
Trans fix? Not for your acura!!!!
good for old beater trucks~
Limit Seafoam to engine and fuel system
Use 1 full can in 1/4 tank of gas and as much of a can as the intake vac line will consume
Wait 5-15 minutes-- and the blaster drive is critical
good for old beater trucks~
Limit Seafoam to engine and fuel system
Use 1 full can in 1/4 tank of gas and as much of a can as the intake vac line will consume
Wait 5-15 minutes-- and the blaster drive is critical
#387
Warm is always good with seafoam- so the solvents are working on easy to loosen materials- running it 5-15 minutes at idle is good in the crankcase cleaning-
some have run it 30 minutes and drove to the oil change place with no ill effects
some have run it 30 minutes and drove to the oil change place with no ill effects
#388
Instructor
Just Seafoamed and I have a very rough idle and rough acceleration until I hit 1500 RPM, then it seems to smooth out. I also have a check engine light on. Any ideas?
Could I just have to run the engine longer (only ran it for about 20 minutes after the seafoam)?
I snipped an inch of the vacuum line twice (2 total inches) and made sure the connection was smooth. I may hear a leak but it is hard to tell.
On a side note (but may be related) I started to change the spark plugs but realized I didn't have a socket extension with me and had to put everything back together.
Could I just have to run the engine longer (only ran it for about 20 minutes after the seafoam)?
I snipped an inch of the vacuum line twice (2 total inches) and made sure the connection was smooth. I may hear a leak but it is hard to tell.
On a side note (but may be related) I started to change the spark plugs but realized I didn't have a socket extension with me and had to put everything back together.
#389
when you say you ran it- do you mean,
took it on the freeway at 4000 rpm and used vtec a bunch for 20 minutes?
2 inches- there is not that much extra line available!!!
I would remove the plastic engine cover and find where the line used to be on the fitting at the engine- replace the line with new longer piece from any parts store
It does happen that some crud gets on the O2 sensor- get it hot driving as described and it will clear itself in a few days
took it on the freeway at 4000 rpm and used vtec a bunch for 20 minutes?
2 inches- there is not that much extra line available!!!
I would remove the plastic engine cover and find where the line used to be on the fitting at the engine- replace the line with new longer piece from any parts store
It does happen that some crud gets on the O2 sensor- get it hot driving as described and it will clear itself in a few days
#390
Instructor
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
when you say you ran it- do you mean,
took it on the freeway at 4000 rpm and used vtec a bunch for 20 minutes?
2 inches- there is not that much extra line available!!!
I would remove the plastic engine cover and find where the line used to be on the fitting at the engine- replace the line with new longer piece from any parts store
It does happen that some crud gets on the O2 sensor- get it hot driving as described and it will clear itself in a few days
took it on the freeway at 4000 rpm and used vtec a bunch for 20 minutes?
2 inches- there is not that much extra line available!!!
I would remove the plastic engine cover and find where the line used to be on the fitting at the engine- replace the line with new longer piece from any parts store
It does happen that some crud gets on the O2 sensor- get it hot driving as described and it will clear itself in a few days
Mine had 2 inches easy. I cut off the first inch because the hose tore slightly when I was pulling it off at the 1 inch mark. Cut off another inch when I noticed the rough idle.
#391
ok but did you check it at the engine- its easily pulled free on other cars~
#393
Instructor
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
ok but did you check it at the engine- its easily pulled free on other cars~
Could a leaky vacuum hose be cause of my issues, i.e. throw the Check Engine Light and cause the rough idle?
#394
Vroom
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC
VTEC (which stands for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control) is an electronic and mechanical system in some Honda engines that allows the engine to effectively have multiple camshafts. As the engine moves into different rpm ranges, the engine's computer can activate alternate lobes on the camshaft and change the cam's timing. In this way, the engine gets the best features of low-speed and high-speed camshafts in the same engine. Several of the links below go into the actual mechanics of the VTEC system if you are interested.
^^Quote From Below Link^^
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm
hope it helps
VTEC (which stands for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control) is an electronic and mechanical system in some Honda engines that allows the engine to effectively have multiple camshafts. As the engine moves into different rpm ranges, the engine's computer can activate alternate lobes on the camshaft and change the cam's timing. In this way, the engine gets the best features of low-speed and high-speed camshafts in the same engine. Several of the links below go into the actual mechanics of the VTEC system if you are interested.
^^Quote From Below Link^^
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm
hope it helps
#395
Instructor
Originally Posted by bojangling
I looked, but I didn't really see the end at the engine. I will look closer.
Could a leaky vacuum hose be cause of my issues, i.e. throw the Check Engine Light and cause the rough idle?
Could a leaky vacuum hose be cause of my issues, i.e. throw the Check Engine Light and cause the rough idle?
#396
it's entirely possible you have either a) fouled sparkplugs or b) fouled o2 sensor(s).
since you mention rough idle, i'd think spark plugs before o2 sensor. however, you may also have a vacuum leak somewhere.
since you mention rough idle, i'd think spark plugs before o2 sensor. however, you may also have a vacuum leak somewhere.
#397
Instructor
Originally Posted by carl m
it's entirely possible you have either a) fouled sparkplugs or b) fouled o2 sensor(s).
since you mention rough idle, i'd think spark plugs before o2 sensor. however, you may also have a vacuum leak somewhere.
since you mention rough idle, i'd think spark plugs before o2 sensor. however, you may also have a vacuum leak somewhere.
#400
4700rpm to redline is in vtec mode- you hear and feel it start running like its a V8
Check the vac line connection at the engine before going any futher- most likely suspect
will cause engine miss and bad idle because its sucking air!!!
The plugs only get loaded if you fail to do the drive and/or they have over 100k on them
The CEL will clear if you fix that and drive the car a few days
Check the vac line connection at the engine before going any futher- most likely suspect
will cause engine miss and bad idle because its sucking air!!!
The plugs only get loaded if you fail to do the drive and/or they have over 100k on them
The CEL will clear if you fix that and drive the car a few days