asujosh1

I take anything that starts with 'it feels like' or 'it seems like' with a grain of salt. Just like everyone else here when a performance mod comes out and they want to see dyno results. Since this isn't a performance mod, but more of a maintenance thing, the only way to know if it works or not is to pull an engine apart and see how it looks.

Hearing that fsttyms1 engine looked immaculate at 200K after using this product is more of an endorsement than anything you could have told me it felt like.

mzahidi

will do the whole can in 1/4 gas tank tomm....
bought the seafoam today and can't wait to use it......
will let you know on the imporvements...

02AcTLS

I sure did. I followed the instructions to a T. The pic explained it all to me On the first page of the thread. It did exactly as it was supposed to: It sucked it up. I did the dip and pull technique as to not stall my car, since I still have all the stupid plastic on the motor. That means I couldn't get to the throttle area.

to everyone else:

BTW, it doesn't state anywhere on their website, their pdf data sheet, OR their cans to change the oil if it's used in the crankcase. I've contacted them to see if you HAVE to change the oil, but I see it as a non issue. I'm sure it's recommended for it to get changed soon, but I'm not concerned about it. If there really was that much crap floating around in the motor, it woulda caused problems as it is/was/will be. If they wanted you to know that the oil should be changed, it would be on the bottle - or if my motor breaks because of it, I could take them to court. That's WHY they have junk like that on warning labels.

Also, the can states that it will only: free sticky lifters and rings. clean dirty parts. remove moisture. increase RPM's vaccuum and compression. clean pcv valve systems when used in the crank case. If for some reason you have metal shavings floating around your crank case, then you should have your motor looked at, as that's a serious cause of engine break-down.

It's also a 100% safe treatment to use. You can also use it to store your motor for LONG periods of time, so it sitting in my motor for a week should also be, a non issue.


I appreciate the concern, but it is my car. If it breaks, it breaks, and that's my problem, not yours.

02AcTLS

Ok. Yeah, can't wait for that to get deleted.


I will make a correction. It does say on the website, for best results, use 1 hour before oil change. It does not, however, say that the oil has to be changed or your motor will blow up, and your car goes bye bye. Just for best results. I will wait for the email back from them about the whole oil change issue.

If it were truly going to be a problem, it would be on their bottles. I asked my lawyer about it and she said that if it caused more harm than good, it would be printed on the bottle, and not on the website.

01tl4tl

02
back slowly away from the seafoam since you dont trust it or the experience of several thousand ziners who use it all the time

Your research should have shown it is a solvent- it will break all the crud loose in the oil passages and deposit them in the oil filter, which may then become full and start bypassing
THATS why idle or short drive and then change oil!!!
Solvent dilutes the oils abilty to do its job
Storing your car a year and doing a real seafoam cleaning treatment are different things
The white smoke is not the tell all
If your spark plugs are over 70k miles, do seafoam then a few days later change the plugs

If you feel the need to involve a lawyer in your maitenance, please abuse a quikie lube place instaed.
Whats next, going to complain about your trans or mirror failure?

01tl4tl

Others may want to read BEYOND the first page of seafoam instructions on gen2 thread.
More current info has been added in the last few years

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

That's why I said to go back and read the WHOLE thread.

pkoo83

Before I write up this essay(lol) I want to thank all of you guys for the great information!(especially 01tl4tl for clarifying the exact execution steps and specifics)

Well after reading every last post on this thread i just seafoamed my 03 tls after taking her for a 10 minute drive to warm up the engine. First I sucked up 1 can through the vac hose using the dipping technique you guys mentioned, and then poured another full can into the 1/4 full gas tank and shut off the engine for 15 minutes before taking her for an extremely spiritied ride. I found it interesting that I only saw smoke for literally 10 seconds and after that all I noticed was the screaming vtec, as I was never driving below 4k rpm and doing intervals of 5000-6500 rpm runs every 3-4 minutes. I'm pretty sure I didn't get much smoke because my car was in pristine condition(having only 57k granny-literally-driven miles on it when I picked her up from the dealership 3 weeks ago. Having that said, I still wasn't disappointed with the results and I noticed a pleasingly better throttle response and smoother shifting(perhaps due to the better valve-tranny coordination like others mentioned?)

But above all things I found out one very important thing about my car... It's a lot faster than I thought she was!!! I'm also fairly confident to say that the vtec on my baby was broken in for the first time today(hard to see a 57 year old lady from Virginia hitting 5k rpm). I also got a great bonus when halfway into the drive, a last generation mustang gt pulled up next to me and things got poppin. I was already in 3rd gear going 60mph @ 4k rpm(the "sweetspot" for my car imo) when he pulled up next to me and started gunning it. I had little work to do, no sport/downshifting required, just punched the gas and in just over 2 secs my speedometer was passing 90mph(6500 rpm+) and needless to say the gt was already 3-4 car lengths behind me - the closest he ever got to me thereafter. To my delight, a few minutes later I ran into a 350z and playfully tapped the gas(4th gear @ 75mph) while next to him and he complied by taking off without notice. I popped it down to 3rd and took it all the way to 6600-6800 rpm before moving up back to 4th. I popped it into 5th just before hitting 110 but by this time I had already caught up to him(no he did not let off on the pedal) and we were pretty much neck and neck from there - after 135 mph I let off and exited the highway(330E just outside of Houston) and made my trip back home.

I'm planning on doing 1/2 can in the crankcase in 10 days or so, right before I get my oil change and spark plugs(Denso Iridium IK-16) changed - a mechanic friend of mine told me to stick with the original NGK Iridiums UNLESS I was going to use the IK-16s(same heatspecs or something like that) as the NGKs.

Once again I would like to thank all of you TL gurus for providing me with yet another DIY freebie(15$) maintenance tip as I continue my journey towards TL perfection. =)

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

+1 for the NGK Iridiums

pkoo83

Sorry for the long post, I didn't realize how much I typed up until I posted it lol must've been my elevated heartbeat from the awesome drive...

Oh and I almost forgot, Happy Thanksgiving to all of you! =)

BENDER08

do these have to be gapped?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure they come pre-gapped.

BENDER08

hmm i guess ill rip one out make sure, after i put them in, my car does not start how it did before i switched them

01tl4tl

NGK Iridium IX come pregapped with a very fine wire electrode, dont mess with it at all.

Denso plugs are ~ok~ and dont last compared to the NGKs which rock and party all night

On the spirited run, drop to 20 mph and floor it up thru 5500 then brake, repeat repeat repeat. You are looking to run fuel thru the system to clean the injectors and tops of pistons.
I only use 2nd and 3rd gears for this. You want hot from repeated revs, and that blows stuff out
NOT screaming thru vtec at speeds that will be cited as reckless driving

The smoke output is of little relevance other than to know you put it in the right place.
Granny driven cars often have fouled plugs and severe carbon buildup which seafoam cures. Repeat treatment in 2-3k miles and then good for a year

01tl4tl

Sometimes you have to trim the end of the vac line you dipped in seafoam, it has to fit TIGHT onto that plastic fitting or cars runs funny

Bxscig

im doing the research for my brother since im car sitting for him... but is the tube that is shown the tube to use???

when i ran it on my rsx.. i used the brake booster line but since i only have one intake manifold.. it didnt seem odd to me.. but for my bros TL.. since there is the front and rear intake chamber.. and the brake booster line is only in the rear..

this line shown in the pic is not the brake booster is it?? or is it another vacuum line that works??

he has an 03 TL-S.. if this makes a difference compared to the pic, please let me know.. thank you...

mzahidi

i just did the gas tank treatment. i think that is not a bad idea for every1-2K miles...keeps it good....

01tl4tl

Even seafoam says 2k miles is plenty!!
A can in 1/4 tank gas to super clean injectors is a good winter treatment

The line shown is the intake vac line, the part the lines connect to has been removed from its clip for pic taking, its mounted on the fenderwell

Intake vac is intake vac, dont be concerned

seanmcd

I just thought I would keep this thread alive - (2003 TLS 104K Miles, all stock) I just sucked a half can through the intake (wish there was a good way to get it through the TB), waited about 10-15 and took a drive. Stumbled while starting, somewhat heavy smoke (but not as bad as some of you have reported) for maybe 15 seconds, then slowly dissapated for the next 60 seconds and was virtually gone at that point. I was guessing I'd see little smoke as I always use 93 octane, put Techron cleaner in the tank on every oil change, and don't drive it too hard... Took a short drive, came back and put the other half in the engine (scary) and drove around the block, let it idle some. Now for the oil change. I'll edit this in a few days to report any improvements in anything...

01tl4tl

You really want to do a hard blaster drive after the intake vac method to clean the stuff off and keep it from melting onto the plugs.
You can use Throttle Body Cleaner- similar to carb cleaner or put seafoam in a spray bottle and shoot away
Can in 1/4 tank gas is the super fuel injector cleaner
Since you use techron already- you are keeping things clean

fsttyms1

If you guys want to get it thru the TB, take off the hose that leads to the front valve cover (take it off from the valve cover so that its still attached to the intake) or the hose that comes off the back side of the intake tube and stick that end into the can of seafoam and rev the motor. It will suck it evenly into the intake and clean the TB and the IAC

seanmcd

Short drive was "spirited" - breached 100 on the interstate and went through the gears several times in between the interstate and home


Thanks I will try this at the next oil change

snorman

Hahahahahahaha yeah, I'm sure it happened just like that.

02AcTLS

Alright guys, straight from the people at seafoam. Been waiting all weekend for this email.

From: "d.davis@seafoamsale.com" <d.davis@seafoamsales.com>
Subject: Sea Foam in Crankcase.
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:54:09 -0500
The safe cleaner in Sea Foam which reduces old oil residue to liquid is NOT A SOLVENT, but instead a SAFE high detergent OIL with extremely more detergent than what your oil comes with when new.

Read the attached Tech bulletin for proper uses.

This is what is included in the tech bulletin:



Sea Foam Motor Treatment used in Crankcase oil

All Gasoline and Diesel, Rotary style engines

Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre service old oil residue cleaner and moisture drier, and is also used as an after service additive.

1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise,

pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity including filter. (Diesels use 1 pint to 4 gallons of oil, please) Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, then do your oil change service (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. (LOF = Lube oil & Filter service).

2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (by mileage), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, then SELF SET a program to MONITOR your oil for color and clarity on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. (LOF)

Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re liquefy old oil residue, This will make your oil need changing BEFORE your normal scheduled LOF service. Only your monitoring of the oil for color and clarity can tell when it is time to do LOF - oil change service, or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.

Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!

Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Technical Services Department

Sea Foam Sales Company

Minneapolis, Minnesota

952-938-4811

September 2007

So adding the sea foam to the oil and not changing it right away does make it safe up to 100 miles of use.

Also, Sea Foam is NOT a solvent - I wonder who said that. Anyways, I am in the clear of getting my oil done tomorrow, as I've driven the obvious minimum, and haven't exceeded 100 miles.

And btw, I read all the pages on this thread before doing my fill of Sea Foam. I am not much happier about using the product, and much better informed about it.

snowman81

Good info...I've always done mine almost immediately after running Sea Foam through. Next time I'll have to make sure I get the 30 miles in.

And I think you meant you are "now" much happier vice "not" much happier, right?


Edit: The oil change that is

02AcTLS

Yes, I meant now. It was past 5 minutes of being able to edit the post.

I am with peace of mind knowing that I am not doing any harm to my engine leaving the cleaner in there for a few days. Also, if they're calling for 1.5 cans of sea foam per quart of oil + filter, then putting in a half can of the stuff definitely won't hurt anything.

01tl4tl

1.5 OZ!!!! not CANS per quart of engine oil capacity
1 pint can =8 ounces of product

02AcTLS

Ok, clarified. :-)

SupaRookie

Just seafoam again today. Did the vac line and crankcase. I didnt do the fuel because I just fill it up this morning. Luckily I was doing it at my work place where no one was there. The car was park and I was pressing on the gas pedal. For the 1st 2-3 minutes, white smoke came out like crazy. White smoke came out for a good 10 minute or so. It was dark when I got home. I will change my oil tomorrow and clean the car too. This time the car didnt throw a CEL.

TwinTurbo335

HEy guys, about to seafoam my car soon.. tired of my shitty gas mileage.. so i been reading this and i seen many people saying different stuff.. So do I have to change my oil right after I seafoam and change my spark plugs? How much does a can of seafoam run? supa, you should give me a hand on seafoaming my junk. LOL

01tl4tl

6 bucks a can- buy 3

The plugs are only an issue if over 70k or so, then its ~possible~ to load them up with gunk during the cleaning- thats why the 20 minute hot run after with sustained 10-15 minutes 4000rpm, and lots of low speed run up to vtec and back down- run up thru vtec repeat- a freeway frontage road is good place for this, and its a great time to rebed your brakes. You dont need to go 130, the amount of smoke is not an true indication of the results

If you put a can in the engine oil, let it idle or drive gently 20 minutes- no revving hard, and then change the oil and FILTER which will be full!

01tl4tl

We should find it in gallons and bring to the bay area meet

SupaRookie

How are you getting yours for $6? I think I pay $7 for mine. I forgot to let the engine idle. I just park and rev the engine up. This time I save the can in case someone pull me over. Then I can explain to them why there's white smoke coming out of my car.

01tl4tl

Sounds like you need to read the thread again for the proper procedure with warm engine-seafoam-sit time-start-drive to blast clean etc. It works grear when done a certain way based on azier experience method

oil procedure

amount of fuel to seafoam in gas tank etc
IIRC pages 8 13 15 have god info

toantran99

my check engine light came back on after the seafoam treatment. It was off for about a week then it came back on. It's a brand new o2 sensor too. Going to wait for another week before resetting the check engine light.

SupaRookie

I know the procedure, I just forgot about it because it was a busy day on Saturday. On another note, my friend seafoam his truck and there wasnt much white smoke coming out. He said only some came out like 30 second max. He also said something about the smoke is suppose to be black because you're burning CO2? Something like that...maybe someone can educate us on what is actually happening when we are seafoaming our car?

01tl4tl

the detergent cleaners dissolve carbon buildup- the white smoke is mostly the seafoam burning off- the real work occurs as you do the blow out drive to get rid of all the loose stuff
Ignore your buddy about the smoke color
Follow each other after a treatment and see what is really coming out the pipes!!

SupaRookie

I know what really came out. I seen it twice!! It still amazes me though. The car put out so much white smoke, I'm afraid to drive it around...Police will give me a ticket for environmental pollution.

TLover8888

After reading all the raves about seafoam, i decided to go ahead and do it. Wasnt a prob finding the vac line since i knew what to look for, thanks to the pics posted. Waited approx. 15 min. and then started it up and rev'ed it to 4K RPM's and saw massive, white smoke for about 2-3 min. I thought it would never stop. Then, took it for a spirited ride using SS and VTEC, and never shifted above 3rd gear. Definitely can feel a little more "pep." Kudos to all the peeps that contributed to this thread!

01tl4tl

People please- do not rev it to 4 grand in park!!!!
Let it run around the block slowly as the gasoline takes over the combustion chamber and the car smooths out, THEN go for a 15 minute 3rd gear run and THEN with it nice and hot slow to 15 and stomp on it all the way to 6000rpm , slow down - repeat several times and the system will really be clear
Have fun!