The First '99 3.2 TL-S 6MT
#281
Originally Posted by orgnlprankster7
$800+ types s motor
$1200+ trans, mounts, etc
$600 tein basics
$500+ all the other crap youll need
$75 helms manual, eh fuckit, too much money
$1200+ trans, mounts, etc
$600 tein basics
$500+ all the other crap youll need
$75 helms manual, eh fuckit, too much money
#282
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Originally Posted by orgnlprankster7
$800+ types s motor
$1200+ trans, mounts, etc
$600 tein basics
$500+ all the other crap youll need
$75 helms manual, eh fuckit, too much money
$1200+ trans, mounts, etc
$600 tein basics
$500+ all the other crap youll need
$75 helms manual, eh fuckit, too much money
#283
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Alright, Installed the Basics with Mario last night, lowered them all the way to the bottom... and I must say.. i have one hell of a drop!
As for the newer engine, the AC compressor, alternator, and oil pump were all reinstalled.
Shifter, spacers, etc. are on their way.
Just removed the wiring between classes and work. I'll provide more updates soon.
Kris, the belts that go to the compressor, starter, and oil pump. Do you happen to know the part numbers? If not, I'll just ask around at the auto parts store.
As for the newer engine, the AC compressor, alternator, and oil pump were all reinstalled.
Shifter, spacers, etc. are on their way.
Just removed the wiring between classes and work. I'll provide more updates soon.
Kris, the belts that go to the compressor, starter, and oil pump. Do you happen to know the part numbers? If not, I'll just ask around at the auto parts store.
#284
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So are you saying that the engine came with the alt and ac comp??
Actually i dont off hand. You should get them from the dealer along with a new timing belt (easy to do it now, plus you have to remove it to change out the lower timing belt pulley and ckp sensor.
Actually i dont off hand. You should get them from the dealer along with a new timing belt (easy to do it now, plus you have to remove it to change out the lower timing belt pulley and ckp sensor.
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
So are you saying that the engine came with the alt and ac comp??
Actually i dont off hand. You should get them from the dealer along with a new timing belt (easy to do it now, plus you have to remove it to change out the lower timing belt pulley and ckp sensor.
Actually i dont off hand. You should get them from the dealer along with a new timing belt (easy to do it now, plus you have to remove it to change out the lower timing belt pulley and ckp sensor.
thats a nice center piece for the table.
damn yo shit is slammed joe! btw are those cr-kais?
Hey guys, how much would it cost to roll by rear fenders? ... rough estimate...
#288
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Originally Posted by joe80055
Also, anyone that wants my gauge cluster (for the '99) with the complete LED conversion (white + blue) done do it, let me know and I'll give it away to you for a reasonable price.
Thanks, Im starting to read and definitely going to subscribe to this thread!!
good luck!
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Kris, my headers.. I was thinking of having the front and rear headers on there while the engine's still out... you think I'll have enough clearance to put the engine back into the bay with them on? I already removed my strut bar a while back. I just want to make the job easier/faster
#291
Originally Posted by joe80055
I'm worried about changing the timing belt pulley since I don't have a helms manual.. is it possible to post pics of the directions?
I know that it's expensive but the Helm manual is worth every penny. It can easily pay for itself in one repair. As shop manuals go, it's a very good one.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=
And you can sometimes find used copies on eBay or in the Black Market forum.
And keep going! You're doing great!
Bob
#292
Originally Posted by joe80055
Oh no, the engine didn't come with all of those, I transferred all of them from my old engine to the new. I'm worried about changing the timing belt pulley since I don't have a helms manual.. is it possible to post pics of the directions? that'd be awesome I'd rather go to autozone or carland and get the belts from there... it's rape if i were to go to the dealerships around here.
Why thank you. lol
what are cr-kais? lol the drop's so sexy.. it kills me each time i see it despite the missing engine... lol
Hey guys, how much would it cost to roll by rear fenders? ... rough estimate...
Why thank you. lol
what are cr-kais? lol the drop's so sexy.. it kills me each time i see it despite the missing engine... lol
Hey guys, how much would it cost to roll by rear fenders? ... rough estimate...
Hey joe, you never got the chance to send me the product# for the 99 TL cold air intake you used. Your project is coming out great man, hope you can provide me with that bit of info for my car. thanks
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Originally Posted by BxPortoRoc
Hey joe, you never got the chance to send me the product# for the 99 TL cold air intake you used. Your project is coming out great man, hope you can provide me with that bit of info for my car. thanks
#295
if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for the type s motor. i have a really high mileage 99 tl and im thinking about doing the swap. my friend and i have done three b-series swaps into civics and i think the TL swap would be harder but thers only one way to find out.
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Originally Posted by TheDailyTL
if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for the type s motor. i have a really high mileage 99 tl and im thinking about doing the swap. my friend and i have done three b-series swaps into civics and i think the TL swap would be harder but thers only one way to find out.
#297
08 Civic SI
Originally Posted by joe80055
So far, I have to admit, doing everything without the manual.. yet.. has been easy so far.. with regards to taking out the motor, replacing a few things here and there.. easy... reinstalling the motor will be easy as well.. I'm just not sure how the rewiring will be for the car... i'm not removing the dash and rewiring it so I want to see if that works to avoid that whole ordeal.. .if not, then i'll have to remove the dash and do the same that kris did.
#298
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Originally Posted by joe80055
Kris, my headers.. I was thinking of having the front and rear headers on there while the engine's still out... you think I'll have enough clearance to put the engine back into the bay with them on? I already removed my strut bar a while back. I just want to make the job easier/faster
As for the timing belt, i dont have the manual near buy but ill try to explain the best i can.
Loosen the bolt that holds the crank pulley on and the front upper cam gear(remove upper cover for loosening)
On the front top cam cover there is a rubber plug (tear drop shape) pop that open so you can see in. If you leave the cover off there is a mark on teh cam gear and the backing plate to align with as well for the next step.
Put a wrench on the crank bolt and turn it watching for teh timing mark on the crank pulley matches up with the plastic arrow on the lower cover. Look into the small hole you opened and see if you can see a 1 or a line that lines up with the opening. If not turn the crank another full revolution till it lines back up on the bottom. inspect the upper hole again. Once you got the both aligned your on TDC.
Remove crank pulley bolt and pulley (carefull not to turn the crank) and the covers. then remove the 2 bolts that hold the tensioner on. remove the belt. (now is a good time to have and install the new lower and upper cam gear, the backing plate the 2 TDC sensors and the CKP sensor. You dont want to take those covers off while in the car. Its far easier to do all this work outside the car.
Originally Posted by orgnlprankster7
i would think you would have to remove the dash to get the 6 speed shifter and type s gauges and such in
#299
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Found these images that i had on my puter
Oh line up the lower with the white mark on the crank pulley
lower cover pointer
upper cover
Oh line up the lower with the white mark on the crank pulley
lower cover pointer
upper cover
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Aw shit.. I have to deal with the crank pulley bolt?! FUCK. Alright, I was thinking of replacing the pulley anyway, so I might as well... what kind of socket do I need for the pulley bolt? I'll probably have to get a large pipe from home depot to get more leverage as well...
#301
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Originally Posted by joe80055
Aw shit.. I have to deal with the crank pulley bolt?! FUCK. Alright, I was thinking of replacing the pulley anyway, so I might as well... what kind of socket do I need for the pulley bolt? I'll probably have to get a large pipe from home depot to get more leverage as well...
#303
Originally Posted by joe80055
Aw shit.. I have to deal with the crank pulley bolt?! FUCK. Alright, I was thinking of replacing the pulley anyway, so I might as well... what kind of socket do I need for the pulley bolt? I'll probably have to get a large pipe from home depot to get more leverage as well...
Wha sup dude, you think you can help me out with the intake dilema. Product # pleaseeee........
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Originally Posted by mrproul
19 mm sounds about right
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Alright guys... I'm on a time crisis here... less than 30 days before the meet.... I'll need all the help I can get... All of my boys in tampa... we must unite :gheyhug: to finish this conversion on time. Anyone down for friday, saturday, and some nights on the weekend? I figured I'd work on the car and Mario would need help installing his WW kit. Let me know...
#306
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Do you have all the new sensors and timing belt gears?
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Dude...Congratulations, you have succeeded in keeping me from studying for the past 2hrs...LOL...(I really should be studying)...But All The best man, your brave!!!
#309
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Originally Posted by joe80055
They're on the way.
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Cool. If you need any help figuring things out or have questions when you get them PM me.
#311
Originally Posted by joe80055
Sure will!! I was wondering though, how can I remove the crank pulley bolt without turning the crankshaft? Is there anywhere I can stick the screw driver in to keep the crankshaft from turning?
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64879...5783663&sr=8-2
#312
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Originally Posted by joe80055
Alright guys... I'm on a time crisis here... less than 30 days before the meet.... I'll need all the help I can get... All of my boys in tampa... we must unite :gheyhug: to finish this conversion on time. Anyone down for friday, saturday, and some nights on the weekend? I figured I'd work on the car and Mario would need help installing his WW kit. Let me know...
#314
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Yes use a screw driver thru the flex plate to keep the crank from turning
The IMRC or the actuator. The IMRC is the unit thats located under the dash that controls the 2nd stage actuator.
The IMRC or the actuator. The IMRC is the unit thats located under the dash that controls the 2nd stage actuator.
#315
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is the engine out of the car? if so just take it to the dealer and ask if one of the service techs can take the bolt off. if the motor is in the car, if you have access to a impact wrench and a moble compressor you should be able to do it, you should max out the PSI on the compressor ( not to high probably about 90-110 psi) that should zip off that bolt no problem. i also beleive if you put the bolt back on and it is tight the motor should tighten down the bolt even further.
good luck,
Mrproul
good luck,
Mrproul
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Yes use a screw driver thru the flex plate to keep the crank from turning
The IMRC or the actuator. The IMRC is the unit thats located under the dash that controls the 2nd stage actuator.
The IMRC or the actuator. The IMRC is the unit thats located under the dash that controls the 2nd stage actuator.
Also, the TDC sensors, doesn't the engine come with these already or not? Also, the crank sensor, the $421.44 little part.... Can I install everything first and then do that last? That's probably going to be the last thing I install in the car since I want to buy alot of other things out of the way first. How hard is the install?
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okay. guys, seriously. I need some help here. When I try removing the crank pulley bolt, I inserted a screwdriver into one of the holes of the flex plate, it just bends. Help? someone?