joe80055

I tried a box wrench, didn't work at all for me As for the axle, I had to do this the first time I changed out the transmission; for the 99, I barely have any space to move anything around. I have to replace the axle anyway so I might as well.

joe80055

I'm going to try to teach myself because I want to be able to drive this thing somewhere. Too bad no one else will let me practice on their car while mine is down. lol You say I might beat up the clutch a bit, but will I be okay driving it for a long amount of time.. oh say... 20k before having the change it out again for a new one? I figured, by that time.. I'd be good enough to where for $238 for the clutch, I could replace it and i'll be all set again for the next 30-50k. after the first set wears out. What do you think?

Oh Vinny, I'll be giving you a call this coming week. Getting the truck and hoist.

joe80055

Another thing, hey Kris..

Two questions:

Do the spark plugs for the type-s match the ones from the tl-p? If so, I could still use the Iridium K's I have on my current engine.

The motor mounts, can I use the ones I currently have or do I have to by the -s Mounts anyway? I'll be re-enforcing them with polyurethane if I could use my old ones.

I'll have more questions as I go.

ryebreadisme

iTrader: (1)

Joe, I'm pretty sure you have to buy the new mounts...

Salty68

This conversion is really amazing! I wish I knew what I was doing to be able to pull it off myself, but I'd probably forget a couple of bolts.

I was just wondering why I'm not able to view any of the pictures you guys are leaving on the thread? I really would like to see all the steps taken just in case I decide to grow some, and try to pull a conversion off.

Bob_F

Most people pick up the technique very quickly so you'll probably be fine. Just take it easy.

If you end up using your newly converted TL for practice, you might want to let a friend try it out first just to check it out.

And you will be amazed how much more control you will have with a manual transmission.

Bob

joe80055

Alright, here's some more pics from tonight's work.

Here's the before shot:



And as kris pointed out, when you remove the hood strut from it's orignal position (top hole) and insert it into the threaded hole (bottom), it'll give you more clearance. I couldn't see it for 10 whole minutes, and then, it finally struck me.



Hood raised:



I'm trying to not remove the dash at all.. but I found a way to get to the ECU:



It's only held down by two bolts which I'm surprised about, I figured it'd be much worse to remove.

Topher707

^^pics not working?

fsttyms1

But you had to do that to remove the front sub frame. You dont have to do so for this swap if you pull every thing up out the top. Its not needed to remove the axle.
Just trying to save you some work.

Oh and you will get far more leverage out of a box wrench than a socket with a swivel. Just put a pipe or another wrench on it for more leverage

fsttyms1

Plugs are different. You will need to reuse the ones that came with the j32A2 or get new ones.

The Front and passenger side mounts are the same (though i believe the 99 has a different front mount) the key ones that have to be changed are in my list. They are the rear and the drivers sides. They are really different. You WILL NEED the engine dampeners(struts) and i would recommend looking thru this thread and getting a better pair of aftermarket ones (ive already destroyed my front mount and am investing in better dampeners)

https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/wallpaper-glue-solvent-185859/

joe80055

Really? I'm able to see them on my pc and others as well.... hmm.. I'll check on it in a few. Is anyone else able to see them?

Kris, I've PM'd some AZ members and these are the two best links I got from the thread link you gave me. They love this stuff. I'll make this my next mod once the engine goes in.

http://www.weaksauceparts.com/store/...p?cat=311&js=n
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...EBP1B&v=glance

I'm surprised that amazon would even sell automotive parts.


Alright, here's a repost, I'm using photobucket instead of facebook to host my pics, so hopefully this works.

Alright, here's some more pics from last night's work.

Here's the before shot:



And as kris pointed out, when you remove the hood strut from it's orignal position (top hole) and insert it into the threaded hole (bottom), it'll give you more clearance. I couldn't see it for 10 whole minutes, and then, it finally struck me.



Hood raised:



I'm trying to not remove the dash at all.. but I located the ECU; it's behind the unit for the SRS:



It's only held down by two bolts which I'm surprised about, I figured it'd be much worse to remove.



The screw the combination wrench is no sitting on (to the right) is part of the harness I had to remove:

black label

You should get a lot more than 30-50K out of a clutch, I've got 148K on my original prelude clutch with no issues and 56K on my CL-S.

It won't take you long to learn to work the clutch proficiently, then you'll be moving on to more exciting shifting ventures like "the double clutch" technique for downshifting and "heel-toe braking" for downshifting while braking to take corners.

If you haven't already, you may want to put some thought into setting you gas and brake pedals to make heel-toe braking easier. I've never felt the gas and brake met up well enough for this on my CL-S, but yours could be a little different being a "frankenstien".

This project of yours is is freakin' awsome!!

fsttyms1

Yea i need to order a set up myself. The ecu is really easy to get out. Also dont slam the hood shut with teh hood prop there Slowly close it. There isnt enough room for the ball to actually fit .

godfather2

joe, time for a shower bro

joe80055

Hey Vinny, you'll be free tomorrow afternoon/evening?

joe80055

Kris... I need some guidance on two things here.. the fuel and AC lines... how to disconnect them? They're constructed weird.



I pick up my hoist from advance auto parts tomorrow. I love the order online/ store pickup feature

vzuptnguyen

so you dont need me anymore joe?

joe80055

of course I do! lol

vzuptnguyen

haha yea, if i cant be of service to help lift engine, then let me assist you in your questions. so in that pic... first you take that black thing off, and use your shiny thing to remove the thing. once you have that done, you pull that one thing out, and if it doesnt budge get your hammer. then your thing is set and free!

now i can honestly say ive contributed to making this possible.

joe80055

nice



Well, so far.. i'm still unable to find any places that are buying engines. Everyone's told me that they're not buying anything used engines at all.. it's strange.. any suggestions on where else to look? I've called up scrapyards from all over. The motor's in awesome shape too and still as alot of kick. Anyone that's ridden with me would say the same.

PiZauL

iTrader: (1)

Man if I had a beater civic, i'd buy that engine off you and swap it in.

Joe where do you originally live, I know your down in Tampa for college, but aren't your from Jersey or around there? I would wanna see this thing in person one day

vzuptnguyen

post ur engine up on this site, hopefully someone will want to swap it in a cl.

joe80055

Originally, i'm from brooklyn, NY so I always pass through your area on the way up and down FL. So, if you want to see this, I'll definitely give you a call

I'll try posting this engine on the black market soon.. I'd like to see it in a CL though

Bob_F

Joe,

You might also want to post an ad for your engine on your local Craigslist. See the links that I posted above.

I've had great luck selling things through Craigslist and it's totally free.

Bob

joe80055

Got the lift..



Now I just need one more person to help me pull this thing out.

orgnlprankster7

hey joe, remeber you have to operate the lift WITHOUT touching it
thats coming along sooo nicley

twighunter00

Joe,
I've been following this thread since it started....It looks stinkin awesome man.
If I could get outa school and drive up there I'd help ya for sure. Looking forward to seeing you complete this, looks sweet....

L3wD

looks good, a lil piece of advice when its time to drive, take it slow its better if you have a good manual driver with you, because if u rev the engine high and ride that clutch enough you can burn a clutch in a day.. especially with 260hp.. when its in you should make a post on here for manual driving tips

RidinDurty

Hurry up Joe post those pics! We finally took his motor out last night. Started about 9:30 p.m. and finished at 5:30 a.m.!!!!

We ran into a lot of problems along the way. It was both our first time taking a motor out but we got the job done. I'll let Joe tell you guys the details and post some pix

joe80055

Well guys.... Mario came over last night to help out with the engine removal...


Several things you'll have to do in order to get the engine out...
First off... the strut bar... in order to remove it, remove the two bolts that usually attach to the strut/shock.. and then to get access to the last 4 bolts, remove teh clip that's right under the windshield wiper blades... as so:



There's one on each side exposing two bolts holding the strut bar down.

As you're raising the engine, look out for this bolt... once you get to it after you raise the engine a bit, slowly.. and I mean SLOWLY. If not, you'll run into what happened to me... A nasty white cloud (the ac refrigerant) blows in your face for a while.



To lift the engine out of the bay.. remmeber two things, there is a small metal hook next to the intake manifold, and another giant loop on the top of the transmission... that's where I attached my hoist chain/hooks to, to get the engine out.







Viola!! No engine



And now the bitch... bring this thing back to my dorm room.. definitely an interesting experience.. my tools?... a handtruck and straps to secure the top-heavy POS. lol



While I brought back the hoist, mario helped bring back the engine to the room.. definitely a long ass walk.






Tomorrow.. the Type-S comes in

I'll upload last night's videos once I get back to my dorm.

joe80055

I forgot about this. lol



For more pictures, navigate to the thread called Late Night Modding

fsttyms1

joe lil tip for ya (probably a bad time to tell you this) but if you removed the 4 bolts that held on the AC compressor you could have pulled that off the motor and lifted the motor out with out it discharging

joe80055

Am I able to re-charge it ? I've only removed two bolts, not 4.. the AC compressor's still on the motor.

RidinDurty

Wish you would've mentioned it yesterday. That thing sprayed everywhere and not only did it tasted pretty bad but i got a little high off it lol

fsttyms1

If you didnt do any damage to the hoses or seals im sure you can. I was just saying if you had left the hoses attached to the compressor and taken the compressor off the motor and pulled off to the side you wouldnt have had this issue

PM me next time before you attempt something and run it by me and i will let you know of any thing to look for.

Hint..... Replace the cabin to engine compartment wire harnesses now while the motor is out (id still try to keep the dash harnesses and not replace them unless you have to)

Also get all the clutch stuff mounted and hoses attached while motor is out.

ryebreadisme

iTrader: (1)

Yay! More good news.

Bob_F

OMG Joe!

You pulled the freakin' engine! Wow!

The photo of you in the empty engine bay is priceless.

What's the next step?

Bob

joe80055

I made sure I didn't damage any hoses at all so I'm not worried about that at all. I'm good to go.. it'll probably take quite a bit to fully recharge it again. I already removed the ECU harness and exposed the firewall to install the clutch pedal with the help of Vinny, so I'll be posting pictures soon about that.

The next step?.. I guess cleaning the engine bay from what everyone keeps suggesting, and then removing any remaining harnesses I don't need.. Then from there, Installing the clutch pack, remounting the new engine, and work on various little things here and there until the transmission comes in.

About cleaning the engine bay... What would I use to clean it?.. I mean, is it really necessary since it'll get dirty all over again? What do you guys think?

fsttyms1

I cleaned mine. I used foaming engine degreaser to clean mine. Its not necessary but its the best time to make it look better.

Bob_F

That's what I would use.

But would you be able to rinse that off where the car is sitting now? (Is it still in the parking garage?)

Bob