EBAY rotor check in
03-16-2007, 04:28 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
EBAY rotor check in
Hey guys just trying to see how the ebay rotors such as:
r1concepts, gripforce, and raceconcept for example, held up after initial reactions.
i have searched this WHOLE acurazine forum and haven't found more then like one line comments or inital review on these. From other forums, mazda, ford, and chevy have all had great feedback about performance and longer term info.
i know a few people on here have them.
let me know which ones, what pads, and for how long.
lets try and keep this information for people like me interested in the ebay sold rotors. i know racingbrake and rotora are great, im looking to research outside of that.
r1concepts, gripforce, and raceconcept for example, held up after initial reactions.
i have searched this WHOLE acurazine forum and haven't found more then like one line comments or inital review on these. From other forums, mazda, ford, and chevy have all had great feedback about performance and longer term info.
i know a few people on here have them.
let me know which ones, what pads, and for how long.
lets try and keep this information for people like me interested in the ebay sold rotors. i know racingbrake and rotora are great, im looking to research outside of that.
03-16-2007, 06:19 PM
#3
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I'm using Gripforce. About 12k miles now. Using NEW stock Acura pads as reccommended by a tech at gripforce. After the install, i'm getting small vibrations during hard braking like at interstate speeds. Yes, I did break the new rotors in properly. The "rust proof" coating is starting to show signs of discoloration, even though I don't drive this car in wet weather and it is garaged. On the plus side, the rotors look great and fitment was perfect. Vibration is not present at normal in town speeds. I'd probably look elsewhere.
03-16-2007, 09:11 PM
#4
Look at the Off Topic section here Sponsored Sales
MrHeelToe www.heeltoeauto.com
He has RacingBrake brand rotors and Hawk Pads
Awesome combo and worth the $
Specials listed unber Brakes and Combo packs and in the Forum
www.racingbrake.com see the 1 piece vented rotor tech and construction
www.hawkperformance.com all about brake choice
The OE pads are not up to the driving style we wput on them
Upgrade Your Brakes
MrHeelToe www.heeltoeauto.com
He has RacingBrake brand rotors and Hawk Pads
Awesome combo and worth the $
Specials listed unber Brakes and Combo packs and in the Forum
www.racingbrake.com see the 1 piece vented rotor tech and construction
www.hawkperformance.com all about brake choice
The OE pads are not up to the driving style we wput on them
Upgrade Your Brakes
03-17-2007, 12:39 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PiZauL
My friend has Gripforce and satisfied pro ceramic pads for 40k miles now, has no problems and runs the car hard. Im having the same setup put in tomorow.
03-17-2007, 03:18 AM
#7
~Da Nocturnal Cheetah~
Originally Posted by JMAL
Hey guys just trying to see how the ebay rotors such as:
r1concepts, gripforce, and raceconcept for example, held up after initial reactions.
i have searched this WHOLE acurazine forum and haven't found more then like one line comments or inital review on these. From other forums, mazda, ford, and chevy have all had great feedback about performance and longer term info.
i know a few people on here have them.
let me know which ones, what pads, and for how long.
lets try and keep this information for people like me interested in the ebay sold rotors. i know racingbrake and rotora are great, im looking to research outside of that.
r1concepts, gripforce, and raceconcept for example, held up after initial reactions.
i have searched this WHOLE acurazine forum and haven't found more then like one line comments or inital review on these. From other forums, mazda, ford, and chevy have all had great feedback about performance and longer term info.
i know a few people on here have them.
let me know which ones, what pads, and for how long.
lets try and keep this information for people like me interested in the ebay sold rotors. i know racingbrake and rotora are great, im looking to research outside of that.
Trending Topics
03-17-2007, 06:52 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by darksom1
I had theslotted/drilled R1Concepts on my 03 TL-S! Awesome! I wish there was some way to get them for my 06, but all good things must come to an end I guess! If anyone finds a way to get some, help a brother out!
03-17-2007, 08:46 AM
#9
wdp skyhawk
I have r1 concept rotors on my 2005 acura tl and they work great I have cross drilled and slotted up front and cross drilled out back. also i am running axxis pads brakes fine no squeaks.
03-17-2007, 02:02 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i didnt read about anyone getting the r1 pads so i am def going to get ebc green or hawk hps. i honestly think that is worth it since the rotors are soo cheap. then your only taking a chance on half of the brakes hahah.
03-17-2007, 03:54 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i really didnt get bothered by it. honestly, if it warps, what are you gonna do, take them off and send them back? thats a lot of work and then you have to wait for their interpretation of the warranty. i would take my chances with the real people reviews. so far, i haven't seen a reason not to get them. the one person i did hear had an issue with an R1 on a mustang, got money back or replacement no problems anyways. im curious to see what others have felt about this to. i know there are more out there.
03-18-2007, 12:05 PM
#15
COTM Coordinator
has anyone tried the rotors from OC Rotors on ebay. Thay give a one year warranty and the all four brakes are crioss drilled and slotted for only 125. Thay also offer axxis pads and ss brakelines at a discounted price. I think I may go with these.
03-18-2007, 12:47 PM
#16
Its your life, buy cheap brakes with cheap pads if you want
Please dont drive aggressivly with such a set-up
Really good parts are easy to find and buy
Hawks HPS pads www.hawkperformance and
Racing Brake rotors www.racingbrake.com for what you need to know about brakes
Available from sponsoring vendor MrHeelToe
www.heeltoeauto.com
see combo section for package deal
Please dont drive aggressivly with such a set-up
Really good parts are easy to find and buy
Hawks HPS pads www.hawkperformance and
Racing Brake rotors www.racingbrake.com for what you need to know about brakes
Available from sponsoring vendor MrHeelToe
www.heeltoeauto.com
see combo section for package deal
03-18-2007, 02:21 PM
#17
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^There have been plenty of people with "cheap brakes with cheap pads" who have been perfecty fine, and drove aggresively. Don't down a product you haven't tried. At this point, almost anything is better than OEM. Of course every single product in this world has negative reviews, even name brand stuff.
Its a good alternative for people who cant dish out a whole lot of money.
Its a good alternative for people who cant dish out a whole lot of money.
03-18-2007, 04:05 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PiZauL
^There have been plenty of people with "cheap brakes with cheap pads" who have been perfecty fine, and drove aggresively. Don't down a product you haven't tried. At this point, almost anything is better than OEM. Of course every single product in this world has negative reviews, even name brand stuff.
Its a good alternative for people who cant dish out a whole lot of money.
Its a good alternative for people who cant dish out a whole lot of money.
i have stated above what i meant, i know there are reputable rotors as i listed above. that doesn't mean that everything else is crap. if you have never tried it, then who is to say its better worse or the same. this thread was intended to input from people who have used such products. OEM is trash, i don't think it can get worse. everytime someone talks about brakes at all, the racingbrake brand is shoved down everyones throat. im sure its a excellent product, but not everyone has to agree or can afford it. i am not getting RB rotors now since it seems to be hyped soo much and i have barely seen any unbiased longer term review if any. so please lets stay on topic and review and discuss the ebay brands of rotors to keep it informational and relevant to the title. there are plenty of other posts about known names.
03-18-2007, 04:17 PM
#19
COTM Coordinator
Thank You. I felt like I was in the church of the racingbrake and was being forcefed their religion.
I'm gonna try the OC Rotors when I get a chance to buy them. And I will post reviews. I feel pretty safe considering they have a 1 ear warranty.
I'm gonna try the OC Rotors when I get a chance to buy them. And I will post reviews. I feel pretty safe considering they have a 1 ear warranty.
03-18-2007, 05:07 PM
#21
Its Not My Fault!
I found the Racing Brake rotors here-thru acurazine- and they are hands down the finest pieces of metal for stopping my car! Just got back from a 2 hour fun run and rotors barely warm.
So I want to stand and shout to all
Special Alloy- way better than anyone else!
Heat Treated- who else does that for you- means less warpage chance by far
Unique inner cooling vanes keep temp equal across the face of the rotor
which decrease risk or cracking
website with all kinds of real info- no one else does that
Ebay drilled rotors- where is their long term feedback
RB- just read Mr HeelToe's threads and he has test vehicles with over 15k miles on them
so far with no probs- when prior they kept warping rotors and wearing out pads
And anyone with cheap brake setup wants to come to the race track with me, we will see just how good yours are against mine. Roadrace track- 3 miles, 15 opportunities to use brakes per lap- its a good time!
What it ~seems~ is those wanting drilled rotors want bling factor more than braking ability
Thats fine- we all have different objectives here
If looking for cheap stopping power- buy NAPA american made rotors and Hawk HPS High Performance Street pads- work fine, stop good all the time- saves money and supports America all at one time plus no ebay shipping
Thats all I got to say about that
I found the Racing Brake rotors here-thru acurazine- and they are hands down the finest pieces of metal for stopping my car! Just got back from a 2 hour fun run and rotors barely warm.
So I want to stand and shout to all
Special Alloy- way better than anyone else!
Heat Treated- who else does that for you- means less warpage chance by far
Unique inner cooling vanes keep temp equal across the face of the rotor
which decrease risk or cracking
website with all kinds of real info- no one else does that
Ebay drilled rotors- where is their long term feedback
RB- just read Mr HeelToe's threads and he has test vehicles with over 15k miles on them
so far with no probs- when prior they kept warping rotors and wearing out pads
And anyone with cheap brake setup wants to come to the race track with me, we will see just how good yours are against mine. Roadrace track- 3 miles, 15 opportunities to use brakes per lap- its a good time!
What it ~seems~ is those wanting drilled rotors want bling factor more than braking ability
Thats fine- we all have different objectives here
If looking for cheap stopping power- buy NAPA american made rotors and Hawk HPS High Performance Street pads- work fine, stop good all the time- saves money and supports America all at one time plus no ebay shipping
Thats all I got to say about that
03-18-2007, 05:20 PM
#22
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What about Power Stop Evolution brake pads? Any good? I was looking into the Hawk HPS but if the Power Stops are any good then i'll take them.
I don't plan on having any high performance races in the track so i just need something that will work on a everyday driver that i drive like a grandma
I don't plan on having any high performance races in the track so i just need something that will work on a everyday driver that i drive like a grandma
03-18-2007, 06:45 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Its Not My Fault!
I found the Racing Brake rotors here-thru acurazine- and they are hands down the finest pieces of metal for stopping my car! Just got back from a 2 hour fun run and rotors barely warm.
So I want to stand and shout to all
Special Alloy- way better than anyone else!
Heat Treated- who else does that for you- means less warpage chance by far
Unique inner cooling vanes keep temp equal across the face of the rotor
which decrease risk or cracking
website with all kinds of real info- no one else does that
Ebay drilled rotors- where is their long term feedback
RB- just read Mr HeelToe's threads and he has test vehicles with over 15k miles on them
so far with no probs- when prior they kept warping rotors and wearing out pads
And anyone with cheap brake setup wants to come to the race track with me, we will see just how good yours are against mine. Roadrace track- 3 miles, 15 opportunities to use brakes per lap- its a good time!
What it ~seems~ is those wanting drilled rotors want bling factor more than braking ability
Thats fine- we all have different objectives here
If looking for cheap stopping power- buy NAPA american made rotors and Hawk HPS High Performance Street pads- work fine, stop good all the time- saves money and supports America all at one time plus no ebay shipping
Thats all I got to say about that
I found the Racing Brake rotors here-thru acurazine- and they are hands down the finest pieces of metal for stopping my car! Just got back from a 2 hour fun run and rotors barely warm.
So I want to stand and shout to all
Special Alloy- way better than anyone else!
Heat Treated- who else does that for you- means less warpage chance by far
Unique inner cooling vanes keep temp equal across the face of the rotor
which decrease risk or cracking
website with all kinds of real info- no one else does that
Ebay drilled rotors- where is their long term feedback
RB- just read Mr HeelToe's threads and he has test vehicles with over 15k miles on them
so far with no probs- when prior they kept warping rotors and wearing out pads
And anyone with cheap brake setup wants to come to the race track with me, we will see just how good yours are against mine. Roadrace track- 3 miles, 15 opportunities to use brakes per lap- its a good time!
What it ~seems~ is those wanting drilled rotors want bling factor more than braking ability
Thats fine- we all have different objectives here
If looking for cheap stopping power- buy NAPA american made rotors and Hawk HPS High Performance Street pads- work fine, stop good all the time- saves money and supports America all at one time plus no ebay shipping
Thats all I got to say about that
One of the biggest reasons rotors warp is people not tightening the lugnuts in the correct pattern and not torquing correctly.
03-18-2007, 07:16 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by PiZauL
Wanna correct something in my post above
*Mr Heeltoe* not helltoe.. lol
*Mr Heeltoe* not helltoe.. lol
03-18-2007, 07:51 PM
#26
I agree that the main problem with most rotors and cause of warpage is OVERTORQUE and improper sequence of tightening the lugnuts
The NAPA rears were $18 each
Did not check the front because I went RB
Call your local store in the morning-AAA discount too!
Local stores sell cheap fronts $30, -Better- Beck Arnely for $65, so 100 per side for RB was good to me.
I would run the Hawk pads over any other- see their website why
Hawks fronts at Pepboys ~85-90 rears 58
There is simply no reason to get drilled rotors for a TL, you cant claim budget and buy bling at the same time. Read RBs site on rotors to know why you are cheating yourself!
The NAPA rears were $18 each
Did not check the front because I went RB
Call your local store in the morning-AAA discount too!
Local stores sell cheap fronts $30, -Better- Beck Arnely for $65, so 100 per side for RB was good to me.
I would run the Hawk pads over any other- see their website why
Hawks fronts at Pepboys ~85-90 rears 58
There is simply no reason to get drilled rotors for a TL, you cant claim budget and buy bling at the same time. Read RBs site on rotors to know why you are cheating yourself!
03-18-2007, 10:15 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
ok i understand "bling" but im pretty sure that means that it has to be COSTLY and flashy. i could care less that its drill + slotted i just want to brake better then OEM. the looks, hell ill take it, you can barely see them thru my stock type s rims anyways so who cares. as far as the track, i dont track run my overweight sport sedan that is fwd. its not why i bought it. even so i would man up to BBK at that point. as far as long term reviews, go search the ford ,mazda, camaro and even older bimmer forums. there are plently of +10k reviews/input and might i add all positive. if you can prove that i am unsafe from these rotors besides speculation and common issues that "can " happen to ALL rilled rotors, im all ears. im glad you like your rotors, im not disputing the quality, but why hate on the others who wanna try something different then you and get better braking then oem without spending a lot? its like harassing someone because they have XS headers instead of comptech. people hated in the beginning, it ended up being a great solution. 
anyways...
more discussion about ebay rotors please
anyways...
more discussion about ebay rotors please
03-19-2007, 12:42 AM
#28
I think the lack of response by long term ebay rotor users speaks for itself
Im not hatin on any rotors- just talking SCIENCE of drilling and its difficulty
What is the price for them versus the suggested NAPA parts
with the Hawk- way better than OE pads- which are what stop the car!
Im not hatin on any rotors- just talking SCIENCE of drilling and its difficulty
What is the price for them versus the suggested NAPA parts
with the Hawk- way better than OE pads- which are what stop the car!
03-19-2007, 06:14 AM
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
the ebay ones are like 170 shipped. for all 4. ill look at the napa ones, i had them on my accord years back and they warped, that why i wanted to stay away, but ill research them.
03-19-2007, 10:46 AM
#31
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Well I just ordered some Race Concepts rotors (Drilled/Slotted), Hawk HPS brake pads and Suzuka stainless steel brake lines. I tried getting the Satisfied pads through tirerack but the system kept freezing when i tried placing the order. I'll let you guys know how installation goes in the next few weeks. I will make a write up in the next couple of months and tell everyone about my experience with Ebay rotors.
01tl4tl atleast i got good pads right? lol
01tl4tl atleast i got good pads right? lol
03-19-2007, 11:03 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RidinDurty
Well I just ordered some Race Concepts rotors (Drilled/Slotted), Hawk HPS brake pads and Suzuka stainless steel brake lines. I tried getting the Satisfied pads through tirerack but the system kept freezing when i tried placing the order. I'll let you guys know how installation goes in the next few weeks. I will make a write up in the next couple of months and tell everyone about my experience with Ebay rotors.
01tl4tl atleast i got good pads right? lol
01tl4tl atleast i got good pads right? lol
03-19-2007, 11:03 AM
#33
Right way to go on the pads for sure! Web was freezing on you for a reason.
I run Satisfied on the tow vehicle and they are ok- versus awesome
As long as the brake lines are DOT- you will appreciate the increased pedal feel from them
Look forward to your test report- someone has to do it!
I tested the Tornado on TL- sadly, not as effective as on my other cars so off it comes and on goes thermoblock spacer
I run Satisfied on the tow vehicle and they are ok- versus awesome
As long as the brake lines are DOT- you will appreciate the increased pedal feel from them
Look forward to your test report- someone has to do it!
I tested the Tornado on TL- sadly, not as effective as on my other cars so off it comes and on goes thermoblock spacer
03-19-2007, 11:04 AM
#34
Pepboys has the Hawks locally
rears were 58
fronts in the 90 range
rears were 58
fronts in the 90 range
03-19-2007, 11:21 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by JMAL
nice, where and how much were the hawks? im pricing them myself too
. Seems like they are well worth the money. Besides, 01tl4tl would put his life on the line for those Hawks 
I'm pretty satisfied, I basically got a whole new brake package for just under $400. I definitely know I have good pads and brake lines... we'll see if the rotors can stand up to the challange! mwuahahahahhahahaha
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Right way to go on the pads for sure! Web was freezing on you for a reason.
I run Satisfied on the tow vehicle and they are ok- versus awesome
As long as the brake lines are DOT- you will appreciate the increased pedal feel from them
Look forward to your test report- someone has to do it!
I tested the Tornado on TL- sadly, not as effective as on my other cars so off it comes and on goes thermoblock spacer
I run Satisfied on the tow vehicle and they are ok- versus awesome
As long as the brake lines are DOT- you will appreciate the increased pedal feel from them
Look forward to your test report- someone has to do it!
I tested the Tornado on TL- sadly, not as effective as on my other cars so off it comes and on goes thermoblock spacer
03-19-2007, 11:53 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by S1CK TypeS
i was lookin at the r1 concepts they seem like a really good deal. anyone know how good their pads are?
and i drive the shit out of my car
03-19-2007, 12:25 PM
#38
Actually
I DO put my life on the line with the Hawk HPS pads
There are many fun roads near me with severe consequences for
failure to reduce speed enough to make the apex!
I never put it into the fence on the racetrack when equipped with Hawks
and they do the same for me on the daily roads and fun runs
I DO put my life on the line with the Hawk HPS pads
There are many fun roads near me with severe consequences for
failure to reduce speed enough to make the apex!
I never put it into the fence on the racetrack when equipped with Hawks
and they do the same for me on the daily roads and fun runs
03-19-2007, 12:28 PM
#39
see threads on brake bleeding- its easy-
Only trick part is:
Start at driver front aka LF and move clockwise to each brake
LF RF RR LR
Only trick part is:
Start at driver front aka LF and move clockwise to each brake
LF RF RR LR
03-19-2007, 04:42 PM
#40
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Ok so i found a couple threads and wow.. what a great find. There is so much involved when dealing with breaks. I honestly didn't think break fluid alone was a big deal in the whole "upgrade" with new brakes. Since we are on topic here, i would like to copy/paste some pretty important things other people may ask soon.
First let me post this link:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
This has virtually all the info you will need to know about rotors, pads, break lines, fluids, ABS and a very well written "The Physics of Braking " <-- check it out
Now from what I have learned so far, it is recommended that you bleed/flush the brakes when upgrading to drilled/slotted rotors with pads and/or brake lines(?), For those of you, like myself, that don't know hpw to bleed/flush the breaks I found some brief How-To's from RickRoush03 and fsttyms1.
Now for Break fluids. It is recommended that we use DOT3/DOT4 fluids on our cars. Preferably Valvoline SynPower http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51. Anything DOT 5/5.1 is meant for race track braking, not everyday driving. You could find the Valvoline at any Autoparts store for about $5 bottle. Also i believe someone mentioned that after doing the entire bleeding process they used up 1 1/2, 32fl oz bottles doing a complete flush job until the new fluid started to come out.
I will be doing all of this once i have all the parts/fluids. Everything should be on the car in about 2 weeks. I will let you guys know how it goes. If anybody has any other questions just let me know. I did a lot of reading today and i'm sure I didn't mention a couple important things at the moment
First let me post this link:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
This has virtually all the info you will need to know about rotors, pads, break lines, fluids, ABS and a very well written "The Physics of Braking " <-- check it out
Now from what I have learned so far, it is recommended that you bleed/flush the brakes when upgrading to drilled/slotted rotors with pads and/or brake lines(?), For those of you, like myself, that don't know hpw to bleed/flush the breaks I found some brief How-To's from RickRoush03 and fsttyms1.
Originally Posted by RickRoush03
its not hard at all, you have 3 options:
get a friend and have him pump the pedal 3 times and hold it down as you open and close the bleeder on the caliper. often check the master cyliner to make sure its full, NEVER let it get low.
you can get speed bleeders from russell, about $30 shipped to you from summitt racing, you undo your bleeders and screw these in. this eliminates needing the friend, you just open the bleeder, keep pumping the brakes and then close the bleeder when done.
or you can get a mityvac, maunal or one that hooks up to an aircompressor. i have both, obviously the air compressor is the easierst, but it basically eliminates the friend again, you just attach the hose to the bleeder valve, open the valve, and use the pump to draw the fluid.
again, always check the MC to make sure its full.
get a friend and have him pump the pedal 3 times and hold it down as you open and close the bleeder on the caliper. often check the master cyliner to make sure its full, NEVER let it get low.
you can get speed bleeders from russell, about $30 shipped to you from summitt racing, you undo your bleeders and screw these in. this eliminates needing the friend, you just open the bleeder, keep pumping the brakes and then close the bleeder when done.
or you can get a mityvac, maunal or one that hooks up to an aircompressor. i have both, obviously the air compressor is the easierst, but it basically eliminates the friend again, you just attach the hose to the bleeder valve, open the valve, and use the pump to draw the fluid.
again, always check the MC to make sure its full.
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Manual brake bleeding is the most common method of bleeding brakes; however, you will need to enlist the help of an assistant. With your assistant sitting in the driver's seat, repeat the following six steps a number of times on each brake until you are sure there is no air trapped in the system. Use a narrow block of wood behind the pedal to prevent it from travelling all the way to the floor. Lastly, place a three foot piece of vinyl hose on the end of the bleeder screw to direct old fluid into a plastic container.
1. Instruct your assistant to pump the brake pedal for thirty seconds
2. Instruct your assistant to press and hold the brake pedal firmly
3. Open a bleeder screw and let the air and old fluid escape
4. Close the bleeder screw
5. Instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal
6. Wait fifteen seconds
Repete 2 thru 6 till all fluid is the the desired fluid.
According to the service manual the following sequence should be followed:
1st - Left Front
2nd - Right Front
3rd - Right Rear
4th - Left Rear
Repeat the bleeding procedure for each wheel in the sequence listed until bubbles no longer appear.
~~
there really isnt much more to it than that.
Get a wrench that fits the bleeder valve, a piece of hose that fits snugly over the valve and a catch can (clear plastic bottle works best to see thru) wit a inch or so of fluid in it to start. Tell your friend to apply the brake and hold. as he/she is doing that open the the bleeder valve slightly to allow fluid and air out. Once the fluid has been pushed out close the valve and tell friend to let go of brake pedal. Wait a bit and repete. Every few pumps check the master cyl to make sure that it doesnt run out of fluid (you can keep the brake cap off)
1. Instruct your assistant to pump the brake pedal for thirty seconds
2. Instruct your assistant to press and hold the brake pedal firmly
3. Open a bleeder screw and let the air and old fluid escape
4. Close the bleeder screw
5. Instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal
6. Wait fifteen seconds
Repete 2 thru 6 till all fluid is the the desired fluid.
According to the service manual the following sequence should be followed:
1st - Left Front
2nd - Right Front
3rd - Right Rear
4th - Left Rear
Repeat the bleeding procedure for each wheel in the sequence listed until bubbles no longer appear.
~~
there really isnt much more to it than that.
Get a wrench that fits the bleeder valve, a piece of hose that fits snugly over the valve and a catch can (clear plastic bottle works best to see thru) wit a inch or so of fluid in it to start. Tell your friend to apply the brake and hold. as he/she is doing that open the the bleeder valve slightly to allow fluid and air out. Once the fluid has been pushed out close the valve and tell friend to let go of brake pedal. Wait a bit and repete. Every few pumps check the master cyl to make sure that it doesnt run out of fluid (you can keep the brake cap off)
I will be doing all of this once i have all the parts/fluids. Everything should be on the car in about 2 weeks. I will let you guys know how it goes. If anybody has any other questions just let me know. I did a lot of reading today and i'm sure I didn't mention a couple important things at the moment