EBAY rotor check in
03-19-2007, 05:13 PM
#41
Make sure you have a $10 impact screwdriver and rubber mallet to remove rotors
Get a 5-8$ brake caliper tool that pushes the piston in perfect and easy
These 2 things will make your life so much better it cant be described
Buy small amount of brake grease anti squeal that goes on the backing plate of the pad
Flushing the brakes is a good annual thing to do- plus after any track day
Book calls for it every 3 years and many 2nd hand cars have never had it done
Will take a bit more work and possibly fluid because you are introducing air into the system- removing it is more work than just pushing fluid thru the pipes
Think about painting the calipers and brackets to match the car or your color choice
My main objection to drilled rotors on the TL is that its a heavy car on small rotors and small pads. Drilling reduces surface area available for braking.
Venting the sides works fine for our needs, and they only people who NEED big brake kits are running racing slicks.
Have Fun
Get a 5-8$ brake caliper tool that pushes the piston in perfect and easy
These 2 things will make your life so much better it cant be described
Buy small amount of brake grease anti squeal that goes on the backing plate of the pad
Flushing the brakes is a good annual thing to do- plus after any track day
Book calls for it every 3 years and many 2nd hand cars have never had it done
Will take a bit more work and possibly fluid because you are introducing air into the system- removing it is more work than just pushing fluid thru the pipes
Think about painting the calipers and brackets to match the car or your color choice
My main objection to drilled rotors on the TL is that its a heavy car on small rotors and small pads. Drilling reduces surface area available for braking.
Venting the sides works fine for our needs, and they only people who NEED big brake kits are running racing slicks.
Have Fun
03-19-2007, 05:27 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Make sure you have a $10 impact screwdriver and rubber mallet to remove rotors
Get a 5-8$ brake caliper tool that pushes the piston in perfect and easy
These 2 things will make your life so much better it cant be described
Buy small amount of brake grease anti squeal that goes on the backing plate of the pad
Flushing the brakes is a good annual thing to do- plus after any track day
Book calls for it every 3 years and many 2nd hand cars have never had it done
Will take a bit more work and possibly fluid because you are introducing air into the system- removing it is more work than just pushing fluid thru the pipes
Think about painting the calipers and brackets to match the car or your color choice
My main objection to drilled rotors on the TL is that its a heavy car on small rotors and small pads. Drilling reduces surface area available for braking.
Venting the sides works fine for our needs, and they only people who NEED big brake kits are running racing slicks.
Have Fun
Get a 5-8$ brake caliper tool that pushes the piston in perfect and easy
These 2 things will make your life so much better it cant be described
Buy small amount of brake grease anti squeal that goes on the backing plate of the pad
Flushing the brakes is a good annual thing to do- plus after any track day
Book calls for it every 3 years and many 2nd hand cars have never had it done
Will take a bit more work and possibly fluid because you are introducing air into the system- removing it is more work than just pushing fluid thru the pipes
Think about painting the calipers and brackets to match the car or your color choice
My main objection to drilled rotors on the TL is that its a heavy car on small rotors and small pads. Drilling reduces surface area available for braking.
Venting the sides works fine for our needs, and they only people who NEED big brake kits are running racing slicks.
Have Fun
I already painted the calipers with a deep red, very similar to brembos. I was driving around last week and an old friend of mine from high school asked me if i had brembo brakes because he recognized them by my calipers lol
but what brackets are you talking about that i should also paint?PiZauL also advised to me that i paint the hub on the rotors with some rust resistant spray paint like rustoleum? I don't know the name but its something like that.
Well i wanted to thank you 01tl4tl, we may not always see eye to eye, but you have been very helpful to me. You apparently have a lot more knowledge than me and it's good to read what you have to say
03-19-2007, 05:31 PM
#43
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But we like to go for bling too. So what we have here is ebay rotors that are cheaper than OEM rotors, and they look and function way better. Good in my book. I already got a few compliments on them. I also painted the hubs with rust resistant spray paint, to help preserve the good look:
(Rear ones painted too, not pictured tho)
Only pic I took so far with them on, i'll have more soon
(Rear ones painted too, not pictured tho)
Only pic I took so far with them on, i'll have more soon
03-19-2007, 05:35 PM
#44
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Nice! too bad those wheels cover them up 
So how was the install? Did you have the right tools with you or did you have to improvise? lol oh and did you change your break fluid? You should bleed them and buy need fluid for those bad boys. I can't wait until I do mine. My breaks feel so weak and the pedal is wayyyy too soft. Definitely needed new breaks.
So how was the install? Did you have the right tools with you or did you have to improvise? lol oh and did you change your break fluid? You should bleed them and buy need fluid for those bad boys. I can't wait until I do mine. My breaks feel so weak and the pedal is wayyyy too soft. Definitely needed new breaks.
03-19-2007, 05:39 PM
#45
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Install was real easy, having air tools, impact driver, and a hammer.. makes it real easy to take everything off. Didn't change my brake fluid, but im gonna have a tech at work do that for me tomorrow.
Braking is SOOO much better now. Comming from horribly warped OEM rotors with OEM pads that were on the car its whole life (48k miles).. im real happy now.
In that pic its a bit harder to see them, but in person at different angles they are clearly visible. But I will be getting some nice wheels in the future, some 18" bronze wheels perhaps
Braking is SOOO much better now. Comming from horribly warped OEM rotors with OEM pads that were on the car its whole life (48k miles).. im real happy now.
In that pic its a bit harder to see them, but in person at different angles they are clearly visible. But I will be getting some nice wheels in the future, some 18" bronze wheels perhaps
03-19-2007, 05:46 PM
#46
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I would take it to a mech to bleed them for me but i don't really trust that. What if they do a half ass job and leave air in there after flushing out the old fluid and replacing with new? I don't know, but we'll see.
Oh and FPR + Bronze rims =
You should paint your calipers too.
Are you gona get rims with skinny spokes? These are mine. I didn't like them that much from day one because you could see the OEM breaks/calipers sooo much. thats what drove to me painting the calipers. And now i cant wait to see the big upgrade
Oh and FPR + Bronze rims =
You should paint your calipers too.
Are you gona get rims with skinny spokes? These are mine. I didn't like them that much from day one because you could see the OEM breaks/calipers sooo much. thats what drove to me painting the calipers. And now i cant wait to see the big upgrade
03-19-2007, 06:22 PM
#48
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Yea Durty, your car is gonna look sick.
I think im gonna get something along these lines for my FPR:
or
Mmm, cant wait till summer where i'll make some mad money.
I think im gonna get something along these lines for my FPR:
or
Mmm, cant wait till summer where i'll make some mad money.
03-19-2007, 06:34 PM
#49
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Thanx guys I can't wait!
PiZauL i can't see the pics. You sure the links work?
edit: never mind i see them now. Wow you should definitely get the second ones I couldn't find any like that for my car at the time. I would choose those over ANY 5 spoke. I love those. I was also thinking about powder coating my rims that exact same color and the second ones you posted. I just don't know how to tell them to paint it that color. Don't I need a color code ro something?
PiZauL i can't see the pics. You sure the links work?
edit: never mind i see them now. Wow you should definitely get the second ones I couldn't find any like that for my car at the time. I would choose those over ANY 5 spoke. I love those. I was also thinking about powder coating my rims that exact same color and the second ones you posted. I just don't know how to tell them to paint it that color. Don't I need a color code ro something?
03-19-2007, 11:37 PM
#50
No air is introduced into the system during a fluid flush as long as you dont let the master cylinder go dry, and always have put the cap back on the master when not adding fluid-
cap on when working, or fluid sprays back everywhere and eats paintjob
Flush and fill is simple- Bleeding after new lines- just takes time
If someone left air in your brakes you would know because the pedal gets better with 2 pumps. No shop would do that or you would own them and have a new car.
Some may try to just replace the fluid in the master and not bother to actually run fluid thru the lines which is the really important part! lazy liars!!!
cap on when working, or fluid sprays back everywhere and eats paintjob
Flush and fill is simple- Bleeding after new lines- just takes time
If someone left air in your brakes you would know because the pedal gets better with 2 pumps. No shop would do that or you would own them and have a new car.
Some may try to just replace the fluid in the master and not bother to actually run fluid thru the lines which is the really important part! lazy liars!!!
03-25-2007, 08:34 PM
#51
Ridin Durty and all others
Check out why I think the best brakes you can buy are worth it.
Pics of the roads I put my life on the line with Racing Brake rotors and Hawk HPS pads
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...86#post5299386
Check out why I think the best brakes you can buy are worth it.
Pics of the roads I put my life on the line with Racing Brake rotors and Hawk HPS pads
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...86#post5299386
03-25-2007, 10:48 PM
#52
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
those roads are sick. personally i would like to know what kind of tires/suspension you have that you trust your life to hold on with your beloved brakes. you make a bad call, those brakes arent the only thing keeping you on the road. plus i live in nyc. your lucky if you can go 1/8 mile with out a light, stop sign, traffic, or a yellow cab in your way. the only thing im racing to, is one of those obstacles. i envy those roads you can rip thru if you so choose. i would save up for an s2000 if i were you, give yourself a project car too.
03-25-2007, 11:00 PM
#53
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I took my car through twisties today, following a lotus elise (which of course got away) but he was damn impressed how the massive TL did.
The gripforces did great paired with the satisfied pro ceramics.
The gripforces did great paired with the satisfied pro ceramics.
03-29-2007, 12:59 AM
#54
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Ok guys I just received all the stuff I need to install. Here are the rotors, pads and lines.
I should be installing them this weekend. I'll try and take pics when I do so.
I should be installing them this weekend. I'll try and take pics when I do so.
03-29-2007, 11:55 AM
#56
I used 1 quart, $5 bottle of Valvoline Synthetic DOT4
just to do a flush- so I would plan on 2 for this job
You can always buy extra and do the flush on car of friend who helped you!
Thats my cheap labor/helper secret
Open/recapped fluid does not keep well- it is a moisture magnet
Do not use old half full bottle of fluid thats been on your shelf a few years
Make sure you clean the rotors with brake clean and lube with brake grease all the contact/sliding points
To the poster who says get an s2000- dont need it- I slow down enough with my RB/Hawk combo to safely take the corner and have enough race training and experience to not even let the tires make noise. Its about the ability to repeatedly slow down that counts on twisty roads.
just to do a flush- so I would plan on 2 for this job
You can always buy extra and do the flush on car of friend who helped you!
Thats my cheap labor/helper secret
Open/recapped fluid does not keep well- it is a moisture magnet
Do not use old half full bottle of fluid thats been on your shelf a few years
Make sure you clean the rotors with brake clean and lube with brake grease all the contact/sliding points
To the poster who says get an s2000- dont need it- I slow down enough with my RB/Hawk combo to safely take the corner and have enough race training and experience to not even let the tires make noise. Its about the ability to repeatedly slow down that counts on twisty roads.
03-29-2007, 12:07 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Look at the Off Topic section here Sponsored Sales
MrHeelToe www.heeltoeauto.com
He has RacingBrake brand rotors and Hawk Pads
Awesome combo and worth the $
Specials listed unber Brakes and Combo packs and in the Forum
www.racingbrake.com see the 1 piece vented rotor tech and construction
www.hawkperformance.com all about brake choice
The OE pads are not up to the driving style we wput on them
Upgrade Your Brakes
MrHeelToe www.heeltoeauto.com
He has RacingBrake brand rotors and Hawk Pads
Awesome combo and worth the $
Specials listed unber Brakes and Combo packs and in the Forum
www.racingbrake.com see the 1 piece vented rotor tech and construction
www.hawkperformance.com all about brake choice
The OE pads are not up to the driving style we wput on them
Upgrade Your Brakes
03-29-2007, 12:45 PM
#58
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Hoser9000
Man every time you reply to a thread it emits dangerous levels of SMUG.
thats funny. i had a double take.
01tl4tl i wrote that about the s2k. im not knocking your skills, i just like the s2k and think it would be more fun. plus you wouldnt have to slow down as much in that car, hahah
03-29-2007, 02:59 PM
#59
JMAL
When I REALLY want to play- where oncoming traffic, rockslide, probable death if go off road etc. are not among the normal hazards
Here is where I go
http://thunderhill.com/html/driving_school.html
Look for something similar near you
To the aptly self proclaimed HOSER:
If smug to you means sending people to educate themselves with tech info and real data, not someones opinion of products they dont use- ok
Who here thinks the OE pads are up to the way they drive?
Anyone, Bueller?
And how many like whatever they bought as upgraded brakes?
whoa slow down- line forms behind me
When I REALLY want to play- where oncoming traffic, rockslide, probable death if go off road etc. are not among the normal hazards
Here is where I go
http://thunderhill.com/html/driving_school.html
Look for something similar near you
To the aptly self proclaimed HOSER:
If smug to you means sending people to educate themselves with tech info and real data, not someones opinion of products they dont use- ok
Who here thinks the OE pads are up to the way they drive?
Anyone, Bueller?
And how many like whatever they bought as upgraded brakes?
whoa slow down- line forms behind me
03-29-2007, 03:12 PM
#60
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
oh we have something just like that in NYC, its called FDR Drive/West Side Hwy. hahahaah.
seriously if there was a place like that even remotely close i would give it a go.
Just have to do this...
"If smug to you means sending people to educate themselves with tech info and real data, not someones opinion of products they dont use- ok"
thats why knocking ebay brakes that you never used is ridic. and this thread is here to get info from people who DO have them or experienced them. nobody says RB is bad, just relax a bit and contribute the facts that you do and keep the opinion to a relevant/humble level.
seriously if there was a place like that even remotely close i would give it a go.
Just have to do this...
"If smug to you means sending people to educate themselves with tech info and real data, not someones opinion of products they dont use- ok"
thats why knocking ebay brakes that you never used is ridic. and this thread is here to get info from people who DO have them or experienced them. nobody says RB is bad, just relax a bit and contribute the facts that you do and keep the opinion to a relevant/humble level.
04-14-2007, 04:35 PM
#61
08 Civic SI
yo ridindurty how you like the setup so far? i was thinking of those, i love my EBC rotor and greenstuff combo but my gawd they are nosiey as all hell. if i drive by anything the sound bounces off it and sounds horrible like a peice of plastic in bike spokes. people have even said how loud they are.
oh and one more thing. whats the difference between DRILL/SLOT and BORE & SLOT ? thx
oh and one more thing. whats the difference between DRILL/SLOT and BORE & SLOT ? thx
04-14-2007, 08:09 PM
#62
Left Lane For Passing!!!!
I bought Irotors off ebay with Akebono ProAct pads. So far I love them. Grip better than OEM. I had Axxis Ultimate pads before the Akebono. Axxis grip good, but they way too dusty for my wheels. I had to hose them down every other day. The Akebono grip just as good with minimal dust. I have Volks racing wheels so i like my wheels to be clean. With the Akebono, I'm not constantly cleanning my wheels, maybe every two weeks. So for 1500 miles on the current set-up with no vibration even when hard breaking. I love it so far.
04-30-2007, 10:48 AM
#63
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i ordered raceconcept d/s rotors today. came to 153.xx shipped for front and rear. yesterday i ordered satisfied pro ceramic pads for 75ish shipped front and rear from partsamerica.com. fun weekend project coming up soon.....
04-30-2007, 12:46 PM
#65
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PiZauL
^Your gonna love it man, I noticed a huge improvement over my OEM warped rotors. Paired with a good suspension, it makes for a good time on the twisties.
im pretty excited that i got all rotors and pads shipped for under 250. i can do the labor myself so this is going to be a great upgrade.
05-14-2007, 08:36 AM
#66
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
well, installed the raceconcept rotors and satisfied pads on saturday. so far so good. grip is better then OEM. im being very gentle to break them in right.
the install is not bad if it werent for those god damn retaining screws. i tried with the impact driver only got 3 off total. i spent soo much time trying. i just drilled them out since i hit the impact driver so hard, it broke. sears takes them back no prob tho .
once i switched to drilling it was smooth sailing. killed a drill bit or two, but it was worth it. i also greased the calipers while i was in there. so far only have 100 miles on them. ill update later after i can really get into them.
the install is not bad if it werent for those god damn retaining screws. i tried with the impact driver only got 3 off total. i spent soo much time trying. i just drilled them out since i hit the impact driver so hard, it broke. sears takes them back no prob tho
.once i switched to drilling it was smooth sailing. killed a drill bit or two, but it was worth it. i also greased the calipers while i was in there. so far only have 100 miles on them. ill update later after i can really get into them.
05-14-2007, 10:22 AM
#67
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Originally Posted by RidinDurty
Ok guys I just received all the stuff I need to install. Here are the rotors, pads and lines.
I should be installing them this weekend. I'll try and take pics when I do so.
I should be installing them this weekend. I'll try and take pics when I do so.
hey how much and where did you get all those?...
i need to change mine too ..
well how do i know if i have to change the lines too ?
thanx!
05-14-2007, 10:23 AM
#68
Make sure to grease the slides and the smooth part at top of caliper bolts, everything should move easily. Torque those bolts!!!
Grease the center hub and the back of the rims to avoid sticking later.
Just did the brakes on a TL with 2 NJ winters on it- 2 rotors rusted-stuck to the hub big time
major effort to remove. A little grease at year1 would have prevented the problem.
Flush your brake fluid- should be done every year, and after any track day or serious mountain run fun where you have superheated the brakes and their fluid.
Grease the center hub and the back of the rims to avoid sticking later.
Just did the brakes on a TL with 2 NJ winters on it- 2 rotors rusted-stuck to the hub big time
major effort to remove. A little grease at year1 would have prevented the problem.
Flush your brake fluid- should be done every year, and after any track day or serious mountain run fun where you have superheated the brakes and their fluid.
05-14-2007, 10:38 AM
#69
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Make sure to grease the slides and the smooth part at top of caliper bolts, everything should move easily. Torque those bolts!!!
Grease the center hub and the back of the rims to avoid sticking later.
Just did the brakes on a TL with 2 NJ winters on it- 2 rotors rusted-stuck to the hub big time
major effort to remove. A little grease at year1 would have prevented the problem.
Flush your brake fluid- should be done every year, and after any track day or serious mountain run fun where you have superheated the brakes and their fluid.
Grease the center hub and the back of the rims to avoid sticking later.
Just did the brakes on a TL with 2 NJ winters on it- 2 rotors rusted-stuck to the hub big time
major effort to remove. A little grease at year1 would have prevented the problem.
Flush your brake fluid- should be done every year, and after any track day or serious mountain run fun where you have superheated the brakes and their fluid.
is there a diy on fluid flush? i didnt see one. i am scared of getting air mass stuck in the booster or cyl.
05-14-2007, 01:01 PM
#70
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I also put on iRotors front and back with iRotor semi-metallic pads and SS brake lines. I've been running these for almost a year, and have had no problems. If anyone is going to spend some money on brake upgrades, i would suggest to really look into ss lines.
I was amazed as the difference in stopping power and brake feel when I changed out. I've always wondered how much is the better pads/rotors, and how much is the ss lines.
I was amazed as the difference in stopping power and brake feel when I changed out. I've always wondered how much is the better pads/rotors, and how much is the ss lines.
05-15-2007, 03:04 PM
#71
SS lines do not mush or flex under extreme pressure like the OE rubber hoses will.
If you do a lot of fun type driving the upgraded "feel" you get from the pedal is great
Flushing fluid- no air is introduced to the system (unless switching to SS lines)
so all you do is use turkey baster remove MOST of the old fluid from the Master Cyl,
add new fluid
NOW- GEN 2- dont know about other gens- check your manual
start at LF driver front- I know its wierd- then RF RR LR you're done
at each one you do the normal pump 3 to 5 times times- hold pedal firm- open valve- pedal goes down- hold - tighten valve. pump 3 to 5 times, repeat till fluid is clear,move to next wheel. Any air will show as bubbles and when the bubbles stop- you are good.
keep the master filled- each time finish a wheel top off fluid.
use plastic tubing on valve into plastic bottle to catch old fluid
I use Valvoline Synthetic and its good to change every year. Uses about 1 quart of brake fluid to do a super thorough job.
After you see what comes out you will be convinced.
If you do a lot of fun type driving the upgraded "feel" you get from the pedal is great
Flushing fluid- no air is introduced to the system (unless switching to SS lines)
so all you do is use turkey baster remove MOST of the old fluid from the Master Cyl,
add new fluid
NOW- GEN 2- dont know about other gens- check your manual
start at LF driver front- I know its wierd- then RF RR LR you're done
at each one you do the normal pump 3 to 5 times times- hold pedal firm- open valve- pedal goes down- hold - tighten valve. pump 3 to 5 times, repeat till fluid is clear,move to next wheel. Any air will show as bubbles and when the bubbles stop- you are good.
keep the master filled- each time finish a wheel top off fluid.
use plastic tubing on valve into plastic bottle to catch old fluid
I use Valvoline Synthetic and its good to change every year. Uses about 1 quart of brake fluid to do a super thorough job.
After you see what comes out you will be convinced.
05-15-2007, 03:07 PM
#72
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
SS lines do not mush or flex under extreme pressure like the OE rubber hoses will.
If you do a lot of fun type driving the upgraded "feel" you get from the pedal is great
Flushing fluid- no air is introduced to the system (unless switching to SS lines)
so all you do is use turkey baster remove MOST of the old fluid from the Master Cyl,
add new fluid
NOW- GEN 2- dont know about other gens- check your manual
start at LF driver front- I know its wierd- then RF RR LR you're done
at each one you do the normal pump 3 to 5 times times- hold pedal firm- open valve- pedal goes down- hold - tighten valve. pump 3 to 5 times, repeat till fluid is clear,move to next wheel. Any air will show as bubbles and when the bubbles stop- you are good.
keep the master filled- each time finish a wheel top off fluid.
use plastic tubing on valve into plastic bottle to catch old fluid
I use Valvoline Synthetic and its good to change every year. Uses about 1 quart of brake fluid to do a super thorough job.
After you see what comes out you will be convinced.
If you do a lot of fun type driving the upgraded "feel" you get from the pedal is great
Flushing fluid- no air is introduced to the system (unless switching to SS lines)
so all you do is use turkey baster remove MOST of the old fluid from the Master Cyl,
add new fluid
NOW- GEN 2- dont know about other gens- check your manual
start at LF driver front- I know its wierd- then RF RR LR you're done
at each one you do the normal pump 3 to 5 times times- hold pedal firm- open valve- pedal goes down- hold - tighten valve. pump 3 to 5 times, repeat till fluid is clear,move to next wheel. Any air will show as bubbles and when the bubbles stop- you are good.
keep the master filled- each time finish a wheel top off fluid.
use plastic tubing on valve into plastic bottle to catch old fluid
I use Valvoline Synthetic and its good to change every year. Uses about 1 quart of brake fluid to do a super thorough job.
After you see what comes out you will be convinced.
05-15-2007, 03:14 PM
#73
NOTE: Do NOT return the turkey baster to the kitchen!!!
05-22-2007, 12:13 PM
#74
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Update
I am near the end of my break in time. 4xx miles or so. i did the 30-40mph to 10mph sets the day i installed them. later that week i did some 45-55 to 10 stops. ihave been very gentle on the brakes other then that ( minus one 80mph to 20 mph surprise last night)
Stats:
all four Raceconcept Drill and slot rotors
satisfied pro ceramic pads
Verdict so far:
stopping power is noticably better then OEM, and i still had more then half the life left on the oem setup. no warping yet ,hahah! no squeeks or squeals. very consistent bite and far less fade. its kinda cool how it buzzes when you get on the brakes hard at decent speed. it might go away, they still have the finishing swirls on them. i still havent even worked down the initial layer.
so far so good.
Stats:
all four Raceconcept Drill and slot rotors
satisfied pro ceramic pads
Verdict so far:
stopping power is noticably better then OEM, and i still had more then half the life left on the oem setup. no warping yet ,hahah! no squeeks or squeals. very consistent bite and far less fade. its kinda cool how it buzzes when you get on the brakes hard at decent speed. it might go away, they still have the finishing swirls on them. i still havent even worked down the initial layer.
so far so good.
05-22-2007, 12:19 PM
#75
08 Civic SI
Originally Posted by JMAL
I am near the end of my break in time. 4xx miles or so. i did the 30-40mph to 10mph sets the day i installed them. later that week i did some 45-55 to 10 stops. ihave been very gentle on the brakes other then that ( minus one 80mph to 20 mph surprise last night)
Stats:
all four Raceconcept Drill and slot rotors
satisfied pro ceramic pads
Verdict so far:
stopping power is noticably better then OEM, and i still had more then half the life left on the oem setup. no warping yet ,hahah! no squeeks or squeals. very consistent bite and far less fade. its kinda cool how it buzzes when you get on the brakes hard at decent speed. it might go away, they still have the finishing swirls on them. i still havent even worked down the initial layer.
so far so good.
Stats:
all four Raceconcept Drill and slot rotors
satisfied pro ceramic pads
Verdict so far:
stopping power is noticably better then OEM, and i still had more then half the life left on the oem setup. no warping yet ,hahah! no squeeks or squeals. very consistent bite and far less fade. its kinda cool how it buzzes when you get on the brakes hard at decent speed. it might go away, they still have the finishing swirls on them. i still havent even worked down the initial layer.
so far so good.
06-02-2007, 01:49 AM
#78
Hold the onions
I didn't get the rotors yet but I would like your opinion guys or if you have had any experience with any of these vendors.
http://www.r1concepts.com/
Cheap and close to me (Anaheim, CA). Looks pretty good. $119 for front and rear rotors.
or
http://brakeperformance.com/
About $420 for front and rear rotors + LIFETIME WARRANTY!!! WOW!!!
Not as close (Winnetka, CA) but that lifetime warranty sure makes it worth it.
http://www.r1concepts.com/
Cheap and close to me (Anaheim, CA). Looks pretty good. $119 for front and rear rotors.
or
http://brakeperformance.com/
About $420 for front and rear rotors + LIFETIME WARRANTY!!! WOW!!!
Not as close (Winnetka, CA) but that lifetime warranty sure makes it worth it.
06-27-2007, 04:16 PM
#79
Drifting
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Age: 38
Posts: 2,693
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Originally Posted by SSMTL01
I have the r1concepts- pretty happy with them. As for their pads, they suck.. do not use them. They squeek, are insanely dusty, and overall cheap.. and i believe they warped the first set of rotors r1concepts sent me. Luckily, they sent me a new set free of charge (didnt even ask for the old ones back) and w/ the $40 duralast ceramic pads i got from autozone they have been and i drive the shit out of my car
and i drive the shit out of my car
06-27-2007, 07:45 PM
#80
4th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2007
Age: 50
Posts: 4
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the best
Originally Posted by JMAL
Hey guys just trying to see how the ebay rotors such as:
r1concepts, gripforce, and raceconcept for example, held up after initial reactions.
i have searched this WHOLE acurazine forum and haven't found more then like one line comments or inital review on these. From other forums, mazda, ford, and chevy have all had great feedback about performance and longer term info.
i know a few people on here have them.
let me know which ones, what pads, and for how long.
lets try and keep this information for people like me interested in the ebay sold rotors. i know racingbrake and rotora are great, im looking to research outside of that.
r1concepts, gripforce, and raceconcept for example, held up after initial reactions.
i have searched this WHOLE acurazine forum and haven't found more then like one line comments or inital review on these. From other forums, mazda, ford, and chevy have all had great feedback about performance and longer term info.
i know a few people on here have them.
let me know which ones, what pads, and for how long.
lets try and keep this information for people like me interested in the ebay sold rotors. i know racingbrake and rotora are great, im looking to research outside of that.