i was reading that i needed to re-torque the bolts... when should i do this .... and also has anyone one else gone to a muffler shop to repipe the whole mid-section. i was looking at the muffler piping and they looked very pinched... i wouldn't mind re-doing that and the Y pipe.

 

I believe you'll find the bolts to be amazingly impossible to reach. The guy I had install my headers said that they recommended retorquing but it probably didn't need ti, as he said he got them damn tight the first time.

 

thanks nate, thats good to know ...
did you ever think about redoing your mid pipes for your exhaust?

 

I did and I've discussed it with a few people... but I'm worried about how much noice thats going to create. More flow equals more noise.

 

it won't be too loud if you put a glasspack on it and still keep your catalytic on.. i am thinking about it, wanted to get the pipes up a little to 2 1/4... any more and i might lose back pressure.

 

I agree, you don't need to retorque the header bolts. Comptech installed mine and they never mentioned to retorque them.

As for the B-pipe, why don't you just buy it from Greddy or Apex'i that's made for the Accord V6. It is hard to find a muffler shop that does mandrel bendings, most of them do crimp bends.

 

sam, wassup !!!
after all this shiet, i ended up keep the tl for now atleast... no more wheels but hey i remember what you said about the comptech headers so i decided to try it out. they are beautifully made, but i can't really tell if it is helping or generating more hp.
well, see...
i figure even if i get a muffler shop to do crimp piping, its gonna be better than that 2in pipe that is stock...

 

I forget, do you have an intake system too? If not, you should definitely get that also because it will compliment the headers/exhaust. You could get a mufflers shop fabricate a new B-pipe but do not use glasspack, they are LOUD. I wouldn't really worry about the B-pipe since it won't add that much more power, just more noise.

I can really feel my headers everytime I push it pass 3500rpm. Also, don't you notice that at freeway speeds, you don't really need to downshift in SS mode to pass, just step on it and it'll go.

 

A friend of mine retourqued my headers bolts and the bolts on the rear of the engine were definitely looser than the ones on the front.

My question is now, do I need to retourque the downpipe bolts where the headers connect to the downpipe? My engine makes a distinct noise at idle that gets louder as the RPM's increase up to about 1,200-1,500rpms and then after that the rpm's get too high and you can no longer distinctively hear the noise anymore. My guess is that it MIGHT be an exhaust leak but I have no idea what an exhaust leak even sounds like.

I can try recording the noise if anyone hear is knows what this sorta thing sounds like.

 

What I did notice was a little better gas mileage. At 2000 rpm in 5th gear, I am at like 70 miles an hour... if i am not mistaking to keep optimal gas economy the engine should be around 2000 rpm.
As for retorquing the bolts on the downpipe, you can always take a look and see the carbon buildup to determine if there is a little leak or not. i think if its accessible to get the car lifted, it wouldn't hurt to tighten them.