I've been planning on doing the flush myself before I even went to the dealer but after their inspection that's what they quoted me. Do they do something special when they flush that a DIY wouldn't do? Just wondering why it costs that much.

Anyone use those one-man bleeder kits? I've searched but have only found out the bleeding order (clockwise starting with the front driver side wheel) and that someone has to hold the brakes while you open the bleeder screw. How do you do it without an assistant? Is that what the dealer does, charges work done by two people?

They also so said my ball joints had play ($650 covers both), need an alignment ($159) and new tires because of uneven rear wear, and my side mount may be going soon...this is too depressing so close to Christmas.

 

yeah i think its a 2 man job, i dont think you could do it on your own, unless those "one man kits exist", ive just never heard of them

its ok man i feel you, i just got laid off a couple days before christmas, so your in a better situation then me, i might have to sell my girl to pay the bills

 

lol...I get it

I doubt I'm in a better position...I got laid off shortly after emptying my bank account on this car. New job now but still a whole lot tougher when you make 1/4 what you used to. That's the reason all this stuff has to be DIY for me. Good luck though...we'll pull through.

PS: It was the lower ball joints that were bad which he said are a lot cheaper to replace.

 

For example:

Actron Vacuum Pump / Brake Bleed Kit CP7835

 

how much is the kit?

 

Like around 60 bucks...but I'm reading some bad reviews on Amazon saying people aren't getting a good seal on the provided "cup", so now I'm not sure I want it. The vacuum tool seems useful though.

 

OMFG that is a rip off! It should cost $80 or less

 

I mean I went to the dealer 'cause I want the best service/diagnosis by people who know the car/manufacturer, and I know they need to make their money, but is the flush they do typical or some super-duper-flush-2000?

 

It's probably typical. I just got a coupon from my local dealer for a brake fluid flush for $80

 

the dealer does nothing special in a brake flush- they may have pressure powered system but thats all- fluid is fluid and all clean fluid coming out the line means its done!

The easiest way is the basic 2 man operation- requires the least amount of cash outlay on tools (1 turkey baster $2, 1 wrench and 2 feet clear plastic tubing) and has been used for decades
The vac bleeder is $25 at harbor freight and I can never get mine to work right- end up using the 2 person method I grew up with- its so easy even a caveperson...

Important!
the correct order is driver front = LF then clockwise around the car- its due to the ABS piping system that its weird
so its LF RF RR LR
Should use about 1+ qt of brake fluid- get 2 to be safe
3 dollars each for regular, or 6 dollars for synthetic.
Use DOT3 or DOT4 only!!! for street drivers. There is better stuff for racers
(its 5.1, the .1 is crucial, not 5.0))

Any that say DOT4 meet and exceed the spec for 3 so you are good.
First timers- less than 1 hour total for the job, removing front wheels is a big help, the rears have enough space for the wrench between the bleeder and the rim
the fronts dont have much room due to caliper- so pop the wheels off- look at the brake pads etc

Ball joints do take time to replace and special tools- I would go to a private shop that does alignments with a Hunter alignment rack and ask for 2nd opinion,
it may be cheapest to do the uppers too while its apart- then know its all perfect.
They do the alignment for 50-75 dollars

If you dont want to do the brake fluid yourself- the same shop can do it with everything else. Look in th ephone book for shop with smaller size ad and honda/acura in the list of what they work on as their specialty

If the dealer sends work out-(many dont have a n alignment rack) they tack on a 30-50% surcharge!! - you can drive it to one place and have it all fixed for less

 

Got an alignment with a one year guarantee for 69 dollars. Brake fluid flush and parking break adjust for 35

 

a good shop should also offer package discount- they have to remove the front wheels to do the ball joints, so the brake flush is right there for them---

get the 4 wheel THRUST alignment- that makes the car drive on its centerline

 

phee- on park brake adjust
did they remove the rear wheels, calipers and pads to adjust the park brake?
thats how you hear the shoes make contact with the drum

The other method- the book method is -iirc- tighten till wheel stops- then back off 6 or 8 clicks
of course your 99 may differ

 

I was charged $50 to flush my brake fluids...not to bad.

 

Don't have anything against the two-person method nor am I implying that it's difficult...it's just the one-person method is more convenient for me.

If I'm gonna do stuff like this I have to drive all the way to my parents' house (about 30 miles) to use their garage. And I like to be able to work whenever I feel like it 'cause sometimes two in the morning is when I have time. My mom with a bad back and my dad with Arthritis...yeah, don't wanna bother them. And it's not like I know anyone out in their neighborhood either. In addition, this forum is all the "real-person" car help I have anyway; didn't grow up around people who knew cars and out of my close friends, I'm the only who even has a car.

So in my opinion, the one-person method is my best option..if I can get that to work, that's a plus in my books.

I don't really know what local shops would charge but I doubt it's as high as what the dealer quoted; but I still plan on doing this myself.

 

I used this alike bleeding ball valve, see link below, but I don't replace the existing valve and I only use one bleeding valve. I used a clear tubing on both ends of the bleeding ball valve, one connect to the brake valve, one end goes to the container. I use clear tubing so I can see how much, if any, air is being drawed back into the brake system. Once you are done with the first brake LF, unplug it and move the next one, RF. I have used this valve with two persons just to make sure it works without the air problem and to fill up the reservoir, but I am sure you can use it with one person.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-UNF-28tpi-Wh...3286.m63.l1177

 

I use a Vacula system that hooks up to an air compressor not one that pumps by hand. It has worked great for me and Ive yet to have a problem with it. And doing a brake flush can definitely be done by one competent person. $250 sounds a little high even for a stealership price, try checking with your local firestone.

The system I use looks something like this but is an older model
http://www.toolfetch.com/Brand/Vacul.../VAC180051.htm

 

for the 60 mile drive, you may as well have the nearest import car shop do it
Just tell them the right order if they are not sure
There are honda-acura specialty shops everywhere, or any brake shop where you can watch them remove fluid from each caliper
50-60 dollars max

 

I used a vacuum bleeder just like what you pictured (newperson), just branded Craftsman. Maybe 01tl4tl's Harbor Freight version is inferior, I don't know, but it's easier than using 2 people- you don't have to wonder if whoever you get to pump the pedal will release it at the wrong time. Just follow the directions that come with it. Use the rubber adapter that fits your bleed nipple best. Use the sealing grease that comes with it around the rim of the cup where it contacts the top & it will seal fine. Be certain to keep an eye on the fluid resv. so it doesn't run out of fluid. Used mine numerous times with good results.

 

newperson, seeing how u r in chicago and meet too. stop by and ill help u do the brake flush, dealer just try to rip u off. u could get an alignment for $70 at the store i used to work at and ill get the best guy their to do it for u. pm if u want to do that

 

Horrible price, almost a crime. I would say about $80. Also, the alignment should be about $80. Ball joints shouldn't be more than $400 for both including parts. Sounds like your dealership is really expensive.

 

thats the one

 

It was funny too because after the inspection he came over & discussed all the things but the brake fluid flush only got about 20 seconds out of that discussion. It's like he just wanted to say "you need a flush, that'll be $250; now your ball joints..."

Also forgot...said my rotors may be warped but they couldn't fully test because of the snow (ABS kept kicking in). Service records indicated they've been resurfaced before. How many times can you resurface rotors before you're forced to just get new ones?

With the way the market is now the dealers probably make most their money off of service vs. selling cars...gotta make their money somehow.

 

The rotors would have to be measured to see if they have reached min. thickness. If they are stock rotors they probably aren't worth doing anyway per my experience and others.

 

I bought a mityvac from were i work. Works great around $50.

 

for $39 my mechanic did the job using a electric vacuum system..easy and cheap..

 

All 4 wheels? That's a good deal.

 

^^^All four wheels..they got all the nastyness out of my brake lines...sheesh...fawkin Acura wanted $169 and I told them deeeez nuts

 

Amazing whats in the brake fluid eh CJ!! everyone should look up `hygroscopic`
How old was your fluid?
Now keep up with the brake fluid flush once a year- it will save you big $ later

You dont have to go abuse the car on a test drive to check the rotor condition!
Weather is not an excuse for laziness

First- measure the actual thickness of the rotors in several places with a caliper micrometer, AND use a dial runout guage- it mounts/magnets on the car and you rotate the rotor BY HAND- if there is beyond a certain amount of lateral play-runout, its trash.
You can usually resurface the stock rotors once- with new pads, then the next time its going to need new rotors and pads - the stock rotors being known to warp easily too, get something else to replace them

The Sales dept exist to supply service with cars to work on~ service is what pays for the fancy showroom and free coffee
Service and Parts dept managers prefer to sell new parts- thats where the speed of install and best profit are

 

MityVac works great. I've changed to SS brake lines on 4 of my cars and my brothers and it has worked great everytime. The flush order is closest wheels first, FL, FR, RL and the RR. Connect the hose, pump up the vacumm, and then open the bleeder screw. The vacumm is pretty strong that it can actually suck air back into the line thru the bleeder screw thread, however, it doesn't introduce the air into the brake line. If you are bother by that, people on the web has take the screw out and apply some teflon tape on the thread.

I would also recommend getting a turkey baster and suck out most of the old fluid first, refill w/ fresh fluid and repeat, depend on how nasty your fluid is.

I've been using Valvoline synthetic fluid in blue bottle. You need around 1 qt for flush. I would buy extra if you haven't done it before, better have more than run out.

 

my fluid was 12-15 months old..wasn't terribly bad, but certainly not fresh looking..hee hee..amazing what fresh brake fluid can do for good and safe brakes and pedal feel

 

Does anyone make speedbleeders for our cars?

EDIT: Looks like Russell does. I have these on my 240sx and it's easy as cake with one person. Loosen, pump brake pedal, tighten.

 

they do, do a google search..i was going to get these too..but then i got my $39 brake flush..let them deal with it lol

 

Brake Fluid All 4 Wheels, Oil Change & Legend Cailpers installed for $85 bucks

 

that is one hella of a good price

 

tweedle and all
The CORRECT bleed/flush order on the gen2 and gen3 TL is
LF= driver front, then clockwise around the car- this is due to the ABS piping.

So its L-Front, R-Front, Right Rear, then Left Rear
not the way stated for the rears a few post above