And want to tell me how to do it? Thanks guys,

Austin519

 

hello

can someone please explain to me what does this will do to the brake system (ss brake lines with stock pads calipers rotors)?
better braking? or..?

thanks

 

TL-S Ride:
The braking is more responsive because the stock rubber flexes when you press on the brakes, but stainless steel doesn't flex.

Austin519

 

pretty simple process, make sure you have all the parts in the kit first, then take it to the dealer, and have them install it

brake lines are not something i'd want to try and see if i can do correctly, u only get one chance to screw up

but the difference is amazing, definitely worth doing

 

Nope I can't tell you how, cause I don't have them yet.... But when I do I'ma get the dealer to do them, I took off my front wheel and took a look at them, and well I don't want to touch em just to be safe....

 

Uhm...ok you guys have fun having Acura install them. I called David McDavid (hate them) Acura today...service guy said it's a 3 hour job...3hr*$80/hr = $240. Yeah have fun paying 2x as much to get them installed as it cost for the part...

Again...anyone installed them themselves? Thanks,

Austin519

 

Daymn! That's too much, see my dealer is charging me $105 for the install, so that is why I'm having them do it, anymore and I would be doing them.

 

evolaerok:
Your Acura dealership is charging you $105?!?

Austin519

 

Yeah, 3 hour work? What do you mean 3 hour work, it should say on the box that it's a 1 1/2 hour install. Oh my friends work there too, so I got a discount, or it would have been $125.00.

 

See Austin, even comptech is saying the SS brakelines are about a 2 hour install time... Man your dealer is trying to hose you....

 

hey austin i havent done it b4 but researched into it for you, and this is what i found:

there are steel tubes running from the engine brake channels all the way up to the wheel well where then a rubber hose(stock) is crimped onto the stock metal tube, from there the rubber hose is guided to the caliber who's connect by a screw that is hallow that allows the hydrolic fluid to transfer from the line to the nut to the caliper....from what i read the only hard part is to take of the part where the rubber hose is connected to the metal tube...since its crimp is a high pressure crimp i think special tools are needed once you cut the rubber tube off and strip the crimp, you simply crimp the new ss line onto the metal tube and then screw the other end to the caliper....and viola..hope that helps

JON LERD

 

special toolzzz??? we barely have the basic tools necessary for most jobs.....

 

hehe, yeah unless your superman you will need a crimper that will crimp and hold that ss line to the main line...and given hydrolic pressure im sure you dont want that thing poping off under 3,000 + psi of pressure let alone no braking ability once the lines come off. good luck

 

asiankidd:
I know you have to bleed the fluid first, then remove the old and put on the new, then fill her back up...I don't know the specifics...or if I even can do it on my own...

Austin519

 

First you take one break line off and press the brake a couple of times to drain most of the fluid. After that then take all the other old lines out. Then install new the new lines. After that put in new fluid on the reservoir(located near the driver strut tower) The lines will have air in them so you have to bleed the brakes for the air to come out. This is usually done by two people or buying a little kit in an autostore call easy bleed kit or something similar. It has a little plastic hose that you connect to a little nob on the caliper. I think you need to have some fluid in the bottle. then just press the brake a couple of times to built presure all other nobs in the other tires should be close. After all the air has come out from that tire, since the bottle has fluid the air won go back in. Close the nob. Do this in every tire, does not have to be in any specific order. Good luck and give us some feedback when they are installed.

 

Bitium:
Holy hell...you just like...answered everything. Dude you totally rock! Ok hell yeah...I may PM you about this, but seriously thanks man. Where the hell are the brake lines anyway

Austin519

 

No problem. I have bleeded my brakes before and Tim's heheheh. You thought I only argue I'm here to help, but I love arguing too.

PM me if you have any questions.

 

Bitium:
Oh hell no...I know you're not here to just argue...if you were I'd be out of a job . Yeah I'm gonna PM you begging for a more thorough explanation...and maybe pics!

Austin519

 

yep just like bitium said...there is fluid in the line that need to be removed, if you want to do it quicker just get a clean pump and take out the fluid at the master cylinder opening. becareful not to get it on your paint job....the brake fluie will eat your paint job!!! once you finish you just need to pump the fluid out of the line a couple more times and you should be set...

 

the only special tool you may need is a open flare wrench for the existing solid steel line. I've replaced all the rubber brake lines in my cars and it is pretty easy...with two people...just like...one person pumps the brake pedal and holds it down...the other person releases the bleeder valve...and repeat until you see no more air in the brake fluid.

 

yep your right i just confirmed it with austin...my research and experience came from doing a prelude...sorry if it misleaded any of you guys.....

JON LERD

 

thescoundrel:
"open flare wrench" what is that?

Austin519

 

thescoundrel:
I assume an open flare wrench is just a standard wrench with a U shaped mouth?

Austin519

 

everyone here makes it sound worse than it really is....bleeding brakes are easy. i have changed master cylinders before and bled brakes...easy stuff w/2 ppl. impossible if ur by urself unless you have that bleed kit.

BTW, you are supposed to go in a particular order when bleeding the brakes.

start from the farthest line to the master cylinder and work your way to the front. you need the repair manual to verify this. any other way and ur playing w/ur life as well as those around you out on the road.

 

well like i said, not something u'd wanna do by urself for the first time... at least i wouldnt.. i'd want someone who did it before present... so its easier to do at dealership... unless they happen to be ripping u off charging u $200+ then u need to find another dealer

 

the only thing ive never done is replace lines w/ss ones...

 

sorry, taht comment was meant for austin519

 

Not necesary, but I guess you could. From the ABS unit the lines are individual and bleeding a shorter line intead of a longer line would not make a difference, but you have to do all four. Is just air in the lines that's all. The air does not let pressure build up.

 

i forgot all about the abs unit...i guess ur right then...im used to doing cars w/out abs....poor latino got his first luxury car

 

austin519,

a open flare wrench supports only 5 sides of a bolt (6 sides standard). It looks like a closed wrench but it is missing one side so that you can fit it to the brake line. It just holds the solid brake fitting tighter than the open face wrench.

It is not only for brake service and can be found in any hardware or automotive stores. Just find the right size with your normal open wrench and go buy the open flare size...if you don't use the open flare wrench, you just increase your chances of bending/or breaking the solid steel line fittings and causing leaks at that point.

Hope this helps you...

 

I'm not sure, I just know that I have done it without doing the longer lines first and it works fine. Maybe that was just on older cars

 

ive always used a regular craftsman wrench which works fine....just make sure the size is correct....dont believe the hype