So My buddy and I recently installed a new brake kit on my 04 TL. The kit included drilled and slotted rotors, carbon ceramic pads, and painted calipers all from PowerStop.The instillation went relatively smooth but we did run into a few problems; the caliper bolts were not lubed properly, which we discovered after a test drive of the front brake set and then corrected, and it turned out that we were not following the proper procedure for the bleeding of the new brakes, which we discovered was a method of disconnecting the battery then pressing on the brake 4 times and on the 5th time holding it down, releasing the bleed valve then retightening it and repeating this process 4 times for each wheel, which we also corrected. In the end the brakes feel somewhat fine, but the issue is that under low speed (25-30 mph) I am having to press the brakes almost all the way to the floor to stop. Highway braking and mid-level braking is fine and responsive, but overall they just feel too mushy. The brake fluid reservoir is full and we bled the brakes twice each wheel just to be safe. Is this a product of the type of brakes they are and I will just have to get used to it or have we missed or messed something up?

 

Not good. Pedal should never dive like that. Your bleed procedure sounds way off. DO NOT drive that car until you properly bleed all 4 corners and verify a stiff pedal. I'm not going to go into the details of the process as there are already numerous posts here on proper bleeding (and I'm replying on phone so PITA to find a link) ...search. If after properly bleeding you still don't have a stiff pedal then tow to a qualified shop.

 

there's no need to disconnect the battery to bleed brakes

I would buy two bottles of brake fluid and change the brake fluid while bleeding everything.
there's still some air in the system

your method doesn't sound off to me as i know many people use the same method
make sure you're bleeding in the correct sequence: FL, FR, RR, RL

How To: Brake System Bleeding - Acura TSX Forum

 

Thanks for the info! I will be tackling that this weekend

 

You're right. I missed the part where he said he did it 4x per corner. Also, agree with your recommendation to flush system.

 

So I've been going over and over the process in my head that my buddy and I took on the brakes and I can honestly say that the only things we may have missed, or more appropriately, may have not done accordingly, was bleed in the "correct" sequence and bleed 4x per corner. I can say however that we, in terms of sequence, did FL, FR, RL, RR, which I don't remember if that is correct or not, and we did bleed 2x per corner just to be safe, but it is curious that the difference in sequence of corner and times of bleed per corner would make such a difference. We did however, do the front brakes and three days later we did the rear, if that makes any difference. In addition, I may have exaggerated a tad on the pressure of which the pedal has to be pushed in order to stop. It seems that sometimes it's necessary to push almost to the floor but not entirely. It's actually different each time. I live in a small town and traveling from point to point is very limited. For example, work is merely two and a half blocks, the grocery store and bank is less than eight miles and most of the time breaking is relatively normal, it's just that overall it seems breaking is mushy, but not necessarily difficult. If I slam on the brakes I stop, regardless of MPH, and there is no squeaking or grinding. All in all I just find it hard to believe that such minor things as order of sequence, or doing things like using a bleed hose or bleeding 4x per corner or leaving one lugnut on the rotor to decrease caliper flex can make such a difference in the overall performance of brand new brakes. My buddy agreed to help me out with potential adjustments but I am just not sure what we would change this next time around. I'm honestly just thinking about taking her to a shop and having them mess with it.

 

Did you follow the bed in procedure for your brakes? I followed the bed in procedure recommended by Heeltoe automotive and it helped a lot after I got new rotors.

 

Bleeding sequence is important, not minor.

Two bottles of fluid will cost you around 16 bucks.
Flushing the system will take around half an hour to an hour.

If you haven't changed the fluid in a while like 3 years, it's a good idea to do it anyway, while getting rid of the mushy brake feeling.

 

Believe it. As gp16 said sequence matters. Also IMO using a clear hose on the bleeder nipple is also pretty important (you are using one, yes?). The idea is to get the hose complete free of bubbles and , if flushing the system, see when the fluid changes from brownish to clear. The hose, when completely filled with bubble free fluid from bleeder nipple to collection jar, also has the added benefit of protecting you from any air getting sucked back into the caliper if your assistant let's up ever so slightly when you close the bleeder. Without it you'll get air back in the caliper.

 

Yeah, I think that is exactly what the problem is. We didn't use a hose or bottle, just tightened and un tightened the bleeder valve during the pedal press sequence and I think you're right, air must've gotten back into the line. Although I will say that we were very meticulous when it came to pressing/depressing the brake while closing/opening the valve. But there must be an answer and I'm certain those given on this thread are the correct ones. I'll be fixing that this week, I'll keep you updated, and thanks again for the info. Much appreciated.

 

get a one man brake bleeder valve and flush the whole brake fluid system. I'd use ATE super blue to help you figure out where old fluid ends and new starts.

 

I agree. Many moons ago I used a device called a speed bleeder. It worked ok but I'm sure there are other alternatives now.

 

Took something like this (5 bucks at AAP) to get the fine little bubbles out of my system (07 AT) when I had been closing the valve at the bottom of the pedal press. This allowed me to press several times without closing the valve and sure enough was able to get the very last of the air out.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/k...008%7CL3*15680