My '03 CLS6 progress thread
03-08-2013, 12:15 AM
#961
My next few projects are going to be reducing weight from cross member gussets, removing rear bumper to clean up rust and remove weight maybe from bumper support(not really interested in removing more weight from rear too much), and removing the dash to get more weight out and go thru the wiring.
The cross member gussets weigh 12 lbs each. I removed the passenger one and got to work cleaning it up and removing weight.
Here it is on the scale after some cutting, grinding, drilling, and sanding. Weight is 8.5 lbs, a savings of 3.5 lbs.
Here is the metal that was cut off.
Some more pics of it cleaned up.
Here it is primed.
Here it is painted. Color is cast aluminum.
Next up is drivers side.
The cross member gussets weigh 12 lbs each. I removed the passenger one and got to work cleaning it up and removing weight.
Here it is on the scale after some cutting, grinding, drilling, and sanding. Weight is 8.5 lbs, a savings of 3.5 lbs.
Here is the metal that was cut off.
Some more pics of it cleaned up.
Here it is primed.
Here it is painted. Color is cast aluminum.
Next up is drivers side.
03-11-2013, 09:13 AM
#962
I just wanted to post that I went to a local sign shop and ordered a 10 yard roll of matte black premium vinyl. I am gonna wrap my lip kit. I am also having them make me a pair of magnetic signs with my auto-x number on it. This way I don't have to tape numbers on car.
I also ordered some side skirt diffusers that go under the side skirts.
I am gonna remove the benen tow hooks and go with sonething else. Technically the hooks aren't supposed to stick out further than bumpers. I could go with tow straps but I am worried if they tow it at an angle the bumper will get damaged or ripped off. I am looking at FIA rated hooks/straps.
I also ordered some side skirt diffusers that go under the side skirts.
I am gonna remove the benen tow hooks and go with sonething else. Technically the hooks aren't supposed to stick out further than bumpers. I could go with tow straps but I am worried if they tow it at an angle the bumper will get damaged or ripped off. I am looking at FIA rated hooks/straps.
03-11-2013, 03:52 PM
#964
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iTrader: (6)
03-12-2013, 01:01 PM
#965
Yea it is a lot of work and time spent just to lose a few pounds and make it look nicer. I bet no one else would waste their time like I do. 
For some odd reason I find grinding metal makes me focus and relax.
BTW blackack how did that spoiler fit?
For some odd reason I find grinding metal makes me focus and relax.
BTW blackack how did that spoiler fit?
Last edited by brian6speed; 03-12-2013 at 01:04 PM.
03-12-2013, 01:28 PM
#966
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Nice Job!
That roughly 7 pound weight savings is worth the work, IMHO, to keep the support those gussets provide for the car, especially when going through the twisties.
That roughly 7 pound weight savings is worth the work, IMHO, to keep the support those gussets provide for the car, especially when going through the twisties.
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brian6speed (03-13-2013)
03-13-2013, 08:27 AM
#968
I got a idea looking at the gussets installed
Have you ever thought of installing the mirrors base under the cf panel ?
You would have to modify the mirrors mount base but It would look cleaner with just the shaft coming threw the cf panel.
Have you ever thought of installing the mirrors base under the cf panel ?
You would have to modify the mirrors mount base but It would look cleaner with just the shaft coming threw the cf panel.
Last edited by richardparker; 03-13-2013 at 08:31 AM.
03-13-2013, 11:08 AM
#969
I already would prefer a longer shaft(that sounds weird) since it had visibility problems before moving mounting point. Mounting it behind would make that problem much worse. It would require a longer shaft that I don't want to deal with.
03-13-2013, 11:40 AM
#970
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
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Didn't fit, it's close, not sure if I'll be able to use it. Need a buddy to help me mess with it to see if I can make something work, I wasn't able to get it lined up at all by myself. May just try and sell it, it's a shame because it's a beautiful piece
:gheylaugh:
How did the pedals go on? Did you have to remove the rubber stock pedals? I am ordering a similar set, and am wondering how you mounted yours
03-13-2013, 09:56 PM
#971
Sadly, I spend just as much time on stupid little details myself so I feel ya.
Didn't fit, it's close, not sure if I'll be able to use it. Need a buddy to help me mess with it to see if I can make something work, I wasn't able to get it lined up at all by myself. May just try and sell it, it's a shame because it's a beautiful piece
:gheylaugh:
How did the pedals go on? Did you have to remove the rubber stock pedals? I am ordering a similar set, and am wondering how you mounted yours
Didn't fit, it's close, not sure if I'll be able to use it. Need a buddy to help me mess with it to see if I can make something work, I wasn't able to get it lined up at all by myself. May just try and sell it, it's a shame because it's a beautiful piece
:gheylaugh:
How did the pedals go on? Did you have to remove the rubber stock pedals? I am ordering a similar set, and am wondering how you mounted yours
For the pedals I removed the rubber on clutch and brake. You then drill the mounting holes thru the medal pedal backings. Install with countersunk bolts and lock nuts on the back.
For the gas pedal you leave the rubber and use the self tapping screws to screw into the rubber/plastic.
03-16-2013, 11:12 AM
#972
So I was wondering about why our cl has those middle cross member gussets when I have noticed other honda/acura vehicles don't have them.
This pic is the dc5 rsx. It uses a middle floor beam, part #28 in the pic.
This pic is our cl/6th gen accord. Part #24 and 25.
This is the 3rd gen tl. It does not have the middle cross member gussets like our car, but it does seem to have 2 small gussets in the frame, part # 21 and 28. It might have more bracing in frame also.
I also have looked at pretty much every honda/acura front suspension setup and besides the 1st gen cl/accord 5th&6th gens(same as ours), our setup is the closest to the CRX. Just thought that was interesting. Not sure if that is a good or bad thing but I would think an A-arm type setup would be the ideal one with 2 mounting points at the subframe.
Front lower arm cl.
Front lower arm crx.
Knuckle cl.
Knuckle crx.
This pic is the dc5 rsx. It uses a middle floor beam, part #28 in the pic.
This pic is our cl/6th gen accord. Part #24 and 25.
This is the 3rd gen tl. It does not have the middle cross member gussets like our car, but it does seem to have 2 small gussets in the frame, part # 21 and 28. It might have more bracing in frame also.
I also have looked at pretty much every honda/acura front suspension setup and besides the 1st gen cl/accord 5th&6th gens(same as ours), our setup is the closest to the CRX. Just thought that was interesting. Not sure if that is a good or bad thing but I would think an A-arm type setup would be the ideal one with 2 mounting points at the subframe.
Front lower arm cl.
Front lower arm crx.
Knuckle cl.
Knuckle crx.
Last edited by brian6speed; 03-16-2013 at 11:25 AM.
03-16-2013, 01:21 PM
#973
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The reason they switched the front suspension design (and rear on some cars) was packaging and cost related.
As far as the 3G TL not having the same gussets that the CL does, Im willing to bet that has a lot more to do with the way the unibody is built. I think the 3G TL uses the ACE body structure, the CL does not.
As far as the 3G TL not having the same gussets that the CL does, Im willing to bet that has a lot more to do with the way the unibody is built. I think the 3G TL uses the ACE body structure, the CL does not.
03-16-2013, 06:27 PM
#974
It seems that the ACE body structure is purely for safety and looks to only affect the front of the car in a frontal impact with a much taller vehicle.
I think the gussets we have are more for support during cornering than for extra safety in a side collision but maybe it does both.
I think the gussets we have are more for support during cornering than for extra safety in a side collision but maybe it does both.
03-16-2013, 07:52 PM
#975
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Its a moot point. Just looked it up and the 3G TL doesnt have an ACE body structure.
Another thing to consider regarding the RSX floor beam is the RSX has a flat floor in the rear. There is no tunnel back there, unlike the CL/Accord.
Another thing to consider regarding the RSX floor beam is the RSX has a flat floor in the rear. There is no tunnel back there, unlike the CL/Accord.
03-16-2013, 09:11 PM
#977
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
B-pillars.
03-17-2013, 06:10 PM
#978
I have been spending the whole day trying to remove the dash. Are you supposed to remove it with the metal frame or just the cover itself?
I followed the instructions in the service manual and there is still stuff connected preventing me from removing it. The parts that are still connected are parts I cannot reach or see.
I followed the instructions in the service manual and there is still stuff connected preventing me from removing it. The parts that are still connected are parts I cannot reach or see.
03-18-2013, 01:12 PM
#980
I got the dash out. That was a pain in the butt. The service manual has you disconnecting that metal bar from the car, which was not necessary to get the dash cover off. I ended up basically disconnecting every wire and clip and removing the instrument panel and cluster also. Then I was able to pull it out.
Dash removed.
Instrument panel and cluster removed.
After ripping up a part of the rubber and foam, I noticed there is even more tar sound deadener.
BTW I hate honda/acura plastic clips. So sick of them. If you are gonna do this I would recommend labeling the connectors to make it easier when the time comes to reattach everything.
Dash removed.
Instrument panel and cluster removed.
After ripping up a part of the rubber and foam, I noticed there is even more tar sound deadener.
BTW I hate honda/acura plastic clips. So sick of them.
If you are gonna do this I would recommend labeling the connectors to make it easier when the time comes to reattach everything.
Last edited by brian6speed; 03-18-2013 at 01:19 PM.
03-18-2013, 02:12 PM
#981
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Is the plan to remove the rubber, foam and sound deadener?
If one were really adventurous, drilling the tubes on the steering hanger beam would contribute to your weight savings, as well.
Thanks for the interesting pics, I always wondered what it looked like with the dash off.
Good Luck.
If one were really adventurous, drilling the tubes on the steering hanger beam would contribute to your weight savings, as well.
Thanks for the interesting pics, I always wondered what it looked like with the dash off.Good Luck.
03-18-2013, 05:54 PM
#982
Is the plan to remove the rubber, foam and sound deadener?
If one were really adventurous, drilling the tubes on the steering hanger beam would contribute to your weight savings, as well.
Thanks for the interesting pics, I always wondered what it looked like with the dash off.
Good Luck.
If one were really adventurous, drilling the tubes on the steering hanger beam would contribute to your weight savings, as well.
Thanks for the interesting pics, I always wondered what it looked like with the dash off.Good Luck.
I want to remove that tar deadener also and remove unneeded wiring. Gonna remove some of the metal dash support that isn't needed by the radio. I want to see how much I can gut the back of the dash cover.
Not gonna drill into the tubes. Drilling on a round surface is not fun.
Need to figure out my gauges and kill switch wiring also.
I picked up 2 new goodies today from sign shop.
I had them make me 2 vinyl magnet signs with my autocross number on them for when I autocross. The silver vinyl is metallic silver to match my paint. These things weren't cheap but I am happy with them. Here is one I just slapped on the door for pics.
15" x 10 yards of matte black premium 3M vinyl.
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zeta (03-18-2013)
03-18-2013, 07:54 PM
#985
The guy picks cars that are half of what the cars he brings to the table are.
If he would match up 5-600hp imports then it would be worth watching.
Because the imports would be busting his cars asses. But instead he runs 2-300hp imports against time attack 5-600 hp cars. Not very fair,so its really lame.I can't believe he hasn't seen a shiner yet with all his BS talking.
03-18-2013, 09:54 PM
#986
Cant stand the show.
The guy picks cars that are half of what the cars he brings to the table are.
If he would match up 5-600hp imports then it would be worth watching.
Because the imports would be busting his cars asses. But instead he runs 2-300hp imports against time attack 5-600 hp cars. Not very fair,so its really lame.I can't believe he hasn't seen a shiner yet with all his BS talking.
The guy picks cars that are half of what the cars he brings to the table are.
If he would match up 5-600hp imports then it would be worth watching.
Because the imports would be busting his cars asses. But instead he runs 2-300hp imports against time attack 5-600 hp cars. Not very fair,so its really lame.I can't believe he hasn't seen a shiner yet with all his BS talking.
Out of the 4 shows I have watched the imports have won 2/4. A Nissan GTR won, and the show I watched today an audi wagon won. The first show when they had the celebrity in the full on race car they had no chance but it has been more even since then.
I just find it funny watching the muscle cars trying to take corners and spinning out and losing control every race. The red neck comments are funny too.
03-21-2013, 07:37 PM
#992
What you don't enjoy frustration and being annoyed like I do?
03-21-2013, 07:56 PM
#993
Here is what it looks like under the black rubber/yellow foam. That tar deadener is gonna be a pain to remove since it has been compressed down and the position is close to the glass.
Picked up supplies from home depot to re-wrap the wires. I got a shrink tube kit, professional grade electrical tape, vinyl bundling tape, and friction tape. I didn't use any friction tape yet. I also ordered some expandable nylon sleeving also, but have to wait for it to arrive.
Dash wiring re-wrapped.
I removed the metal dash support brackets for the radio. The top parts bolt onto that tube and it holds the dash in place so I decided to cut off the tops to reuse. Gonna clean up and paint still. This removed 1.37 lbs.
I removed all the black rubber/yellow foam I could without removing the evap, blower, or heater. There is still a piece behind those that probably weighs 2-4 lbs. What I removed weighs 6.5 lbs.
I removed some of this mat material from the back of the dash cover. It weighs .4 lbs.
I removed the remaining audio, srs, accessory power, and cruise control wires. They came out to a whopping 1.27 lbs removed.
Tape removed. I didn't add this weight because I added more tape back.
I am still debating whether to leave this metal piece or cut part of it off since that tube bolts to it.
I thought it was odd that where the tube connects they only welded 2 spots in the back and nothing on the front. Wonder if they forgot or that's just how they do it.
Picked up supplies from home depot to re-wrap the wires. I got a shrink tube kit, professional grade electrical tape, vinyl bundling tape, and friction tape. I didn't use any friction tape yet. I also ordered some expandable nylon sleeving also, but have to wait for it to arrive.
Dash wiring re-wrapped.
I removed the metal dash support brackets for the radio. The top parts bolt onto that tube and it holds the dash in place so I decided to cut off the tops to reuse. Gonna clean up and paint still. This removed 1.37 lbs.
I removed all the black rubber/yellow foam I could without removing the evap, blower, or heater. There is still a piece behind those that probably weighs 2-4 lbs. What I removed weighs 6.5 lbs.
I removed some of this mat material from the back of the dash cover. It weighs .4 lbs.
I removed the remaining audio, srs, accessory power, and cruise control wires. They came out to a whopping 1.27 lbs removed.
Tape removed. I didn't add this weight because I added more tape back.
I am still debating whether to leave this metal piece or cut part of it off since that tube bolts to it.
I thought it was odd that where the tube connects they only welded 2 spots in the back and nothing on the front. Wonder if they forgot or that's just how they do it.
Last edited by brian6speed; 03-21-2013 at 08:05 PM.
03-22-2013, 03:20 PM
#995
Hey Brian,
Great work on the car! Really impressive stuff you got going on.
I just picked up an 03' CL-S6 myself.
I am about to order some legend calipers, and I had noticed that you got yours powdercoated.
Which shop did you take it to, and how much did it cost if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks in advance.
I'm in Chicago too!
Cheers,
Henry
Great work on the car! Really impressive stuff you got going on.
I just picked up an 03' CL-S6 myself.
I am about to order some legend calipers, and I had noticed that you got yours powdercoated.
Which shop did you take it to, and how much did it cost if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks in advance.
I'm in Chicago too!
Cheers,
Henry
03-22-2013, 04:35 PM
#996
Hey Brian,
Great work on the car! Really impressive stuff you got going on.
I just picked up an 03' CL-S6 myself.
I am about to order some legend calipers, and I had noticed that you got yours powdercoated.
Which shop did you take it to, and how much did it cost if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks in advance.
I'm in Chicago too!
Cheers,
Henry
Great work on the car! Really impressive stuff you got going on.
I just picked up an 03' CL-S6 myself.
I am about to order some legend calipers, and I had noticed that you got yours powdercoated.
Which shop did you take it to, and how much did it cost if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks in advance.
I'm in Chicago too!
Cheers,
Henry
You can check out the jdmchicago forums also for info on what shops people use and where to take your car.
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brian6speed (03-22-2013)
03-22-2013, 04:38 PM
#998
Finding and cleaning up all the tar scaps would be a pain also. This type of stuff would be so much easier if you just tore the whole car down, removing entire dash structure and windshield.
I am also wary of grinding any metal inside the car because of metal shaving getting everywhere. I guess i could use plastic and tape the whole interior up. At this point it seems a lil silly just to get that extra lb or 2. There are more important things to focus on at this point. Need to get the car ready by april.
Last edited by brian6speed; 03-22-2013 at 04:44 PM.
03-22-2013, 04:55 PM
#999
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I was thinking the same thing. I use plastic chisels tho so I don't think they can chip glass. Only problem is they are worn down from removing all the other tar and I dunno where to get more. I bought them from griots garage but they don't sell the anymore. All the others I can find are metal.
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...L-SCRAPER-SET/
03-22-2013, 05:07 PM
#1000
These plastic chisels seem pricey; however, they have some length to them.
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...L-SCRAPER-SET/
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...L-SCRAPER-SET/