brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I left the seat wires. I still use them sometimes. I removed the audio wires because I will never use it again. The SRS wires were removed with the connectors intact so those can go back in easily if ever needed. I will probably remove the wiring for the trunk light also since I don't need that. There are a few wires I still need to figure out what they are for. I am not very good at reading through electrical diagrams.

I can still go back.

Full race car not likely. It will remain my summer driver. Still want it for streets. Would need to go to track a lot to make a track only car worthwhile.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I finished going through the driver side wire harness that goes under the door sill. Not as much removed from this side since passenger side had the heavy amp wire on that side. The driver side also holds all the taillight wires, and gas cap opener wire.

Here is what was removed

Driver side

SRS cable - .34 lbs
Electric tape - .1 lbs
Clips - .02 lbs
Tubing - .06 lbs
Audio wires - .19 lbs
Trunk light wire - .06 lbs
Total - .77 lbs



Wires cleaned up.



The main reason I am going through the wiring is just to clean things up, mainly the SRS wiring that is annoying to look at.

Gonna work on the trunk today and hopefully some of the dash.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know what these 2 wires are for? The black/blue and the orange ones. They run from the front dash back to the trunk connector that the audio cables use.


They connect to this side of the connector.


If you look at the other side of the connector there are no associated wires that connect to the same terminals. It looks like the wires don't connect to anything. Could they be spare onstar wires or something because I don't have on-star or navi?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I sorted through the trunk wires. Not much weight lost, but I did already remove the trunk section amp wire prior and the other wires were added to the side weights.

Here was the trunk section amp wire I removed previously. It weighed .52 lbs


I removed the tow wire harness, and a few other small wires.

Here is what was removed

Trunk
Wires - .09 lbs
Tubes - .15 lbs
Tape - .08 lbs
Clips - .02 lbs
Total - .34 lbs







Just the dash left now really. This should be the biggest weight loss wire wise.

Fort Worth CL-6

Do you have a final weight yet???

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

Get rid of all that sealant in the trunk

jk, but it looks good I'm waiting for the dash .

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I have a list going but need to update it again. I want to remove the sunroof next weekend, as long as my friend dsnt blow me off again. Once I finish the weight loss I will get it officially weighed.


I will remove sealant if you will pay for the car to be stitch welded.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

After looking through the dash wires, I don't think I want to really bother ripping it all apart. It would require me to remove the dash which I don't want to do.

I was able to remove the main SRS harness which was my main purpose for doing this in the first place.

I can still clean up the door harnesses and I will be completely removing the roof harness once I get the moonroof assembly out. Don't think I will mess with engine harnesses since that would require pulling the engine most likely.

I will post more info and pics later tonight.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Here is what was removed from the dash. This is all for now unless I get the desire to rip the dash out.

I also removed the OPDS wires from passenger side and added those into these weights.

What was removed

Dash
SRS main harness - .62 lbs
Other wires - .19 lbs
Tubes - .01 lbs
Clips - .02 lbs
Tape - .03 lbs
Glovebox bracket - .12 lbs
Total - .99 lbs



I slacked this last weekend and did not get anything else done.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

My mom got a new car a few days ago and I thought I would post a few pics of her 2 bmw's.

The blue one is a 99 M roadster. It is in like new condition with 20k miles and no rust at all. Never seen snow. It was bought new back in 98. It is a manual. This was before they upgraded the engine so its a 240 hp 3.2. Similar to the cl.

The white one is the new one. M3 with carbon fiber bits. It has the cf front ducts, mirror covers, roof, and duckbill spoiler. It is also a manual.

For these pics, I just snapped them fast. I did not reposition the cars or clean them. Enjoy.









The blue car looks small, but it actually weighs slightly over 3300 lbs. My car should be over 300 lbs lighter.

1foxbody

Your mom has a good taste in cars lol. I would like that M3. How much did she pick it up for if you don't mind saying?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Those belong to your mom? She single?




Had to ask.

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

^

I like the new one, the interior for a bummer in the roadster is thumbs down .

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Not sure, I would need to ask.

My parents are still married plus she is a lil old for you.

I think both interiors are nice and actually very similar especially considering there is 14 years between them. If it was up to me I would have gone with the m coupe and the 1M, but that is just my preference. The m3 overall does look better/meaner than the 1M tho.


I redid the skateboard grip tape on my floor plate. I did not have enough to do it like this before so ordered some more.


Here is a pic of the center dash area after removing SRS wires.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
Nice progress thus far. Love the M.

Any pics before the install of the ES LCA bushings that you settled on?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thnx. I have no updates yet on the lca bushings. I dropped them off at my shop to get bushings removed, but have not bothered to go pick them up yet. Need to go do that and get them powdercoated. Process will probably be slow since there is no reason to rush.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Since I was working on the bumper beam and wiring, I had not started my car in 1-2 weeks. I went to start it yesterday and it would crank but not start. I had this same issue a few months ago when I didn't start it for 1-2 weeks. I also noticed my trunk button wasn't working. I was worried that I had opened a can of worms sorting through the wiring.

I knew the battery and starter were fine. When it happened a few months ago I tried a few things and eventually got it started and it has been fine since till yesterday, but I was not sure exactly what the problem was. Temperature wasn't the reason because it is in a heated garage.

I took out the main relay and all the solder points looked fine to me. I tried using a heat gun on the solder joints like I did on my ps3 to fix that. That did not fix it. I called a local acura dealer and he found a dealer that had a main relay I could go pick up. The relay has a different part number and is much larger than my original one. I plugged it in and the car started right up. The part number is 39400-S84-003. I think I will keep the metal bracket removed and just tie it up. Here is the size difference.


For the trunk button I was thinking what it could be because I didn't think it could have been from me sorting through the wires. I thought wait there is that switch in the glove box. I hooked that back up and the button works. Need to keep that switch connected to use door trunk button. Could remove the switch and door trunk button and just use the remote, but I removed it from the glove box backing and clipped it up.


I removed the switch and wiring and attached it with a clip.


I noticed with my car idling tha the hood now was rattling. I thought it was probably from me removing the front hood seal. I put the seal back on and the rattle is gone.


I ordered new turn signal bulbs that are bluish silver and glow orange. They arrived still need to install. This pic is with the camera flash off.


Here is what they look like with camera flash on.


The trunk release mechanism/bracket had some corrosion/rust on it so I decided to remove it to clean and paint. I removed a lil excess metal, still need to paint. The removed metal is .03 lbs.


I also never added the rear emblems to the weight loss. They are .05 lbs removed.


Here are the 2 part numbers you will need for the ES LCA bushings.


Here is what you will be using out of the 2 boxes.


Here is what is not needed.


That is all for now.

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

Post the turn signals when they're installed . I like that look alot .

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Will do, probably in next few days.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Called my shop today and they are yet to press the bushings out of the LCA's. They said they will today so I can grab them tomorrow but we will see.

Installed the turn signal bulbs. Here are daytime pics like requested. If you want a night pic I can do that also.

Lights off


Lights on

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Weight Reduction Progress
03 Acura CL-S 6
Stock curb weight: 3446 lbs
EXTERIOR
SSR wheels -32 lbs
Project Kics Lugs -1.05 lbs
Exhaust -13 lbs
OEM mirrors replaced with APR -5.39 lbs
Front license plate and holder -1 lbs
Rear emblems -.05 lbs
Amber headlight reflectors -.11 lbs
Horn & horn cover -.91 lbs
Front bumper beam swiss cheesed -5.5 lbs
Zeal coilovers (not sure)
TRUNK
Trunk wire removal -.86 lbs
Trunk light -.04 lbs
Spare tire -29.5 lbs
Jack -3.63 lbs
Trunk tools -1.61 lbs
Trunk carpet floor -8 lbs
Trunk side carpet (2 pieces) -6 lbs
Trunk plastic -3.06 lbs
Trunk lid cover/fabric (not sure)
Stock amp -1.75 lbs
REAR SEATS
C Pillars(x2) -1.81 lbs
Rear deck lid -3 lbs
Third brake light -.72 lbs
Rear speakers -3.58 lbs
Rear seat belts -4.4 lbs
Seat belt protectors -.08 lbs
Rear seat back -26 lbs
Rear seat bottom cushions(x2) -11 lbs
Rear seat console -7 lbs
Rear seat side panels(x2) -11 lbs
Sound deadening/rear seat a/c ducting -39.27 lbs
White plastic covers -.29 lbs
White padding -.68 lbs
FRONT SEATS
Headliner -4.5 lbs
Metra dash kit and card holder -1.21 lbs
Metal support radio/dash -1.07 lbs
Passenger visor -1.76 lbs
Dome light -.16 lbs
Roof console -.96 lbs
Roof handle -.23 lbs
Roof hanger -.06 lbs
Quarter window weather-stripping -1.22 lbs
A-Pillars -1.44 lbs
Radio antenna -.41 lbs
Engine mount solenoid control unit -.31 lbs
Plastic piece under accelerator pedal -.14 lbs
Door Panels -22 lbs
Driver seat swapped for recaro -40.8 lbs
Passenger seat swapped for recaro -24.5 lbs
B Pillars(x2) -.93 lbs
Kick panels(x2) -.68 lbs
Center console -13.69 lbs
Carpet -23 lbs
Stock radio -6.07 lbs
Front seatbelts -9.76 lbs
SRS side airbag sensors -1.72 lbs
Steering column plastic -1.83 lbs
Front speakers -4.1 lbs
Mugen/ works bell steering wheel(stock delete) -5 lbs
Gas cap release bracket metal -.03 lbs
Dash wire removal -.99 lbs
Driver wire removal -.77 lbs
Passenger wire removal -1.48 lbs
Footrest metal removal -.6 lbs
Glovebox -4.21 lbs
Front passenger airbag -8.92 lbs
SRS unit -1.42 lbs
SRS connectors metal bracket -.47 lbs
Passenger dash side panel -.26 lbs
Plastic toe stop -.14 lbs
Cruise control button -.1 lbs
Memory seat position switch -.09 lbs
Side mirror control switch -.08 lbs
Driver door handle plastic removed -.02 lbs
Door handle protectors -.5 lbs
ENGINE BAY
P/S hose bracket -.075 lbs
IMRC runner, bracket, & control module -2 lbs
Braille battery(15 lb) -23.5 lbs
Cruise control -2.81 lbs
Front bumper damper -7 lbs
Engine cover (not sure)
Small engine cover -.92 lbs
Plastic over radiator -1 lbs
Hood insulation -1.5 lbs
Comptech strut bar (not sure)
Comptech headers (not sure)
Option pulley -7 lbs
Firewall insulation -.4 lbs
Washer fluid reservoir ,fluid, & lines -7.47 lbs

Subracted weight I am sure of -443.58 lbs

ADDED WEIGHT
Stock spoiler (not sure)
Harness bar +7 lbs
Harnesses +7 lbs
UR 4-point bar (not sure)
Cusco front tie bar (not sure)
Rear tie bar (not sure)
Oil catch can (not sure)
Ingall’s stiffy mount (not sure)

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

Impressive weight loss.
Lights look good!

1foxbody

I'm curious to what yours actually weighs already with all this weight removal lol. Get that thing on a scale already! Just for reference mine weighed 3325lbs with a full bottle of nitrous in the car and 3480lbs with me in it last time I went to the track.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Where can I go to weigh it? Highway weigh station or a drag strip?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Metal scrap yards are plentiful.
You would be able to go get your weight there.

Mopply

iTrader: (1)

Nice weight loss! Definitely helps get rid of the "boat factor" of the CL. Impressive

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I want to change the clutch out before I take it to bodyshop, so need to make a decision soon. Ive done a lot of research and thought about it a lot but still can't make up my mind.

Would it be possible to use the J&R twin disc setup for the 3rd gen tl if we use our aasco flywheel?

I could be a guinee pig for xlr8's clutch.

I could use the cm stage 3 but don't like the idea of having to modify it to fit properly.

Most likely option is oem clutch and aasco fw.

Any comments or suggestions welcome. My car will always be N/A and under 350 whp.

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

I too would like to try the xlr8 clutch. I would talk to Josh and if you buy it, install it, and it fails... I'm sure he'd come through to help you get the problem resolved. He always backs up his customers.

You could never go wrong with the oem clutch and aasco flywheel though.

Either way, let us know which option you go with.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I decided to reuse the main relay bracket instead of just tying it up because other connectors use it also. I thought I might as well remove some excess metal and paint it.

Metal removed. .06 lbs worth.


Main relay and gas door opener brackets painted flat black.


Not much left for me to do. I enjoy working on car/weight loss so much it will be sad day when I have nothing left to do.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Gas cap opener reinstalled.


Main relay location/reinstalled.


I decided to remove some of the extra sealant from the trunk area and a small amount from back seat area. They seem to have just slopped it on with big brushes in some areas, while other areas it looks like it was just dispensed from a tube. I used exact-o knives and a dremel with felt brush attachments to remove it.

.4 lbs removed. Plateful of sealant. This is just what I was able to vacuum up.


Some of the areas I removed it from.




There were 4 plastic caps filling holes in the trunk floor. I removed one and realized it can't just be put back in because of the backing part. I went to hardware store and found some other caps that fit the holes perfectly, are slightly lighter, and look better.

Removed caps.


Replacement caps.



Not much of an update, sorry.

acura-cls-6mt

brian6speed: Your car looks AWESOME!
I am wondering if you had problem installing the Neuspeed short shifter kit? There were couple threads to discuss the stiff shifting problem after the installation.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thnx. I had no issues installing it. One of the easiest installs. I upgraded to the pspec ss kit tho. It has more adjustability, aluminum base shifter bushings vs rubber oem ones, and the pivot ball is metal instead of the oem plastic. The neuspeeed piece helps some, but it isn't a full ss kit. I would try to find a used pspec one or figure out if a shifter from an rsx would fit.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

There is also the JTC ss for our car. It is a copy of the pspec one but made from steel instead of aluminum. The JTC is also a little bulkier and requires trimming some plastic from shifter base.

This one would be sick if it fit. Wonder if the shifter cables could work also.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...3&idcategory=0
up

Oh damn. I just looked up honda part numbers for our shift cable vs the rsx one. RSx part # is 54310-s6m-a01. CL is 54310-s3m-a01. Since the middle numbers just designate what model the car is, if the other numbers are the same it should be same part/fit.

I am gonna buy rsx shifter cables and report back. Hope this works. Aftermarket cables use metal parts vs oem cables using rubber parts so it will remove some flex.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thnx for bringing this up otherwise I wouldn't have thought about it.

Here are the cables I plan on buying/trying.
http://www.hybrid-racing.com/store/h...e-version.html

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I dunno why I bother posting on this site, no one gives a shit.

AustinTaper

Not true, I appreciate it and sure others do too. Your experience and knowledge is definitely a benefit to the community, even if we don't post and say so. Keep it up

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

Keep on posting. Don't get disgruntled. You are basically a pioneer in everything you are doing. It's like this on the TL side too. Ramblings seem to be the only active place as far as these forums go.

As far as the shift cables, the RSX cables are used for the civic/integra swaps. For the most part they look very similar but who knows what minor differences they may have.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

you've done some crazy things to the CL for sure, but this side is pretty dead now. Especially since most of the veterans have left or are leaving.

I've really been waiting for your final weight, or some track videos. Seems like you've been prepping the car for something for years. Now get out there!

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

I get no responses to what I post on my thread really either , it's just dead . I've only been here almost a year and seen it decline . I like what you're doing keep it up . Also , your car is what you want and it makes you happy you don't need others interest to continue .

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I'm watching everyday and it has inspired me in a new direction with my car lately.
Keep sharing man.