brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Expandable nylon sleeving arrived. It seems most of the connectors are too big to fit over, and I am not gonna bother de-pinning them just for that.


Spent most of yesterday vinyl wrapping my driver side ron jon side skirt. Damn that was a real pain laying the vinyl around the curves and a 3 dimensional structure. I think I did quite well considering it was my first time using vinyl.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

looks great! i tried to do the carbon fiber vinyl on my dash....not fun.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Hows the dash stuff coming ?
My dash shakes good at idle because of the mounts and I'm wondering how bad it would shake if I removed that foam.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I bet. Takes a lot of patience.

Haven't gotten that much done. I was wondering the same thing about rattles. Will have to install and find out. I wrapped the wiring with the friction tape.

I ordered these plastic chisels that arrived yesterday.


I thought of a new way to remove the tar. This time I used my heat gun to heat it up and make it gummy. Then I just used a chisel and some muscle power to push under the tar and scrape it up. My hand is so sore right now tho.

I taped up the dash to keep tar pieces from getting all over. Here is one piece removed. I removed it from left to right all from kneeling on the passenger side. I taped up those holes in the dash to keep tar pieces from falling down them.


Both pieces removed. Still need to clean up the residue.


What was removed. It weighs 1.5 lbs. Hopefully there is no other tar deadener left in my car.


I removed another .13 lbs from the dash side metal. I primed, painted and baked the pieces flat black.


I removed the dash lower metal and chopped it up. That removed .63 lbs. The right side piece will be reused, the rest is scrap.


Cleaned up another bracket. Removed 10 grams of weight.


That is all for now. I have been working on vinyl wrapping and installing lip kit also.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Tar residue removed. Think I should probably re-cover those holes with tape or something to keep outside air from getting in.


Reinstalled this metal piece. I also used lighter hardware that saved 20g of weight.


I ordered a new front tow hook from www.racecartowhooks.com. It is a NASA spec tow hook and made of steel instead of aluminum like the benen one.


It will look better when installed because it is smaller and also because I can recess it back into the bumper more like demonstrated in the following pic.


Wanna put the dash back in but not sure if I will get around to it today.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

You Going To Keep The New Hook Red?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Does that mean you don't like it red? For track events they are supposed to be red or yellow so the crew can identify them easier.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Installed the new tow hook. I was pleasantly surprised when I realized I could remove the benen hook and install the new one without having to remove the bumper.

The red tow hook is 69g lighter then the benen hook. The hardware I used is 51g lighter. I used the same aluminum spacer that I made for the benen hook.

I am more pleased with this hook over the benen. The benen stuck out too far and screamed ricer. Here are the pics.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Good thing you have the arrow pointing to the hook, otherwise I wouldn't have seen it.




/red text - I know what the arrow is for

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

On a side note I will have 10k from inheritance. I am tempted to spend some on my car. Maybe I should just buy the FRS.


Just kidding civic.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

It would be a better platform

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

If you wanna drift and have the same car as every high school ricer then yes it is. The cl is much more challenging to mod and unique. P2R did pretty well with this platform in time attack.


I covered those holes in the dash with gorilla tape. I bought some foam tape used for window and door seals to use under the dash to hopefully prevent rattles. It did add 60g in weight.



Put the dash back in ,bolted it down, and plugged all the connectors back in. Still need to re-install the instrument panel and cluster.


One small bracket I removed. It weighs 28g.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

And yet the 86 platform is taking first in class at many AutoX's and time attacks. Maybe highschoolers know a thing or two

kingofdust

I wish I got an frs while I was in high school, doesn't really strike me as a highschool car at all. idk maybe my town is just weird

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I have said how much I like it many times, was just kidding with you civic. I think most high schoolers like it for the drifting aspect. I can't give them any credit. They don't care about time attack or cornering unless while drifting. Now top speed and 1/4 mile times are important tho.

I expected the frs to do well at time attack and auto-x so nothing shocking there. Noone expects an acura cl to do well tho. The looks on peoples faces alone is worth it. I like being the underdog in a car noone else will ever use.

Now keep the scion talk out of my thread thankyou. even tho it would increase the post count by 10000000000 percent.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

So I sold my nrg harness bar for the cheap price of 185 shipped. I paid 270 originally. Took it to ups to package and ship it. They quoted me $100 for that. Is there any other place I could ship it out that would be a lot cheaper. Otherwise I don't see how shipping is worth it.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

UPS ships for decent prices.
You get raped from them when they are the one's who package it.
Greyhound drop off's charge cheap for large piece's.

How bigs the piece ?

Take the size and weight to UPS,fed ex,greyhound shipping calculators,and box it yourself.
Boxing it yourself will save money.

From UPS
I sent a box from nc to mass that I had maybe 20lbs inside and did not have time to box it they charge me like 80 bucks.

On another day I sent a SS XXX 15 sub from nc to ny and by the time I was done boxing it it weighed just under 90lbs and they charged me 58 bucks.

Both were similar sizes .
Using the calculators you don't have to drive around to get prices and you can prepay too so all you have to do is drop off.
The internet is a wonderful thing.


Have you done any driving with the dash re installed yet ?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

The problem is I don't have a box that is 6 feet tall to use. No local places I know of sell boxes that big.

Either way it seems shipping is just going to be too much.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

can you bubble wrap it & tape it instead of a box?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I can but will the shipping service accept it that way? Need to tape the address on bubble wrap also.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

With how crafty you are with the ack you can't tell me you can not figure how to piece boxes together to make a box for it.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I could get boxes(don't have any) and tape 3 together. Only tape they accept is shipping tape and would need to buy some. Even if I box it myself fedex wants $60 to ship it. Just not worth it for me to lose that much money and time.

Ill just see if anyone at my shop wants it.

I have not driven yet, do not have the time, plus my driveway is blocked off with big piles of rocks right now so can't pull out anyway.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I know you were messing with me, just decided to mess with you too.

Try USPS Priority for shipping too.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Finished putting dash back in, and took it for a drive just now. That was fun after not driving it for months.

Richard you will be happy to know that my dash does not rattle at all anymore. Before I removed it, because of the XLR8 85a mounts, it would rattle some of the time when idling in neutral. It would always rattle at idle with a/c on. Now it does not even rattle with the a/c on. That alone was worth my time removing it, not to mention the over 10 lbs removed mostly up pretty high on the car.

I need to speed things up. Gonna skip working on rear bumper and bumper beam for now.

Main things I need to do is replace clutch and flywheel, install rsx omnipower clutch master cylinder, install killswitch, install gauges, buy and install fire extinguisher, balance tires and do an alignment, install new tranny mounts, and moonroof delete. Want to get this all done this month. Wish me luck.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Really.
I might have to squeeze it in sometime soon.

I just got my hand brake setup today and I need to get that in for inspection,my new tps will be here tomorrow and I just picked up a 03 pontiac aztek that needs a head gasket today for 800 so I can make a dollar.So I'll be taring that apart too,Test n tune is thursday and I'm going to the wheel stand competition friday,that should be fun.

SwedishMickeyMouse

I friggen love this build

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

What do you need the handbrake setup for?

Pontiac aztec

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Here are the plastic clips I removed from the dash wiring. They weighs 30g, and were replaced with roughly 10g worth of zip ties. Savings of 20g.



Dash fully back in. The total weight removed from the dash was 11.83 lbs. This does not include the previously removed items.


I spent yesterday removing the moonroof assembly. I still need to remove the wiring, but that should be under 1 lb. Here is my list of weights.

Moonroof Assembly Weights

Hardware & small bits .42 lbs


Sunshade. 3.5 lbs


Glass with backing. 14.5 lbs


Frame. 12.5 lbs


Drain tubes. 1.25 lbs


Drain Channel. 1.32 lbs
Wind Deflector. .48 lbs
Bracket Covers. .21 lbs


The total weight removed not including wiring is 34.18 lbs. It should end up being 35 lbs minus a few lbs for lexan and hardware to hold it.

Here are a few pics of car without it.



I decided to try and make the plug out of lexan. I went with a scratch resistant solar gray color race car quality lexan. I ordered a 1/8"x48x24 sheet. It is pricey at $110, but it is MR10 lexan.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR10-LEXAN-SOLAR-GRAY-POLYCARBONATE-1-8-x-48-x-24-/360346203890?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e64eb6f2
I a gonna cut it myself. I bought the cheapest jigsaw they sell at lowes plus a pack of 10 teeth per inch laminate/downcut blades.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I removed the driver side moonroof wires. They weigh in at .84 lbs.


Gotta see what I will do about the passenger side since it contains wires for the visor mirror lights, and also rear view mirror dimmer switch. Don't really need any of that tho so might remove it all.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Something else I just noticed that will make the cl harder to mod than the 3rd gen tl.

CL Moonroof


TL Moonroof seal is part #20


The TL has a removeable glass seal(part #20 in above diagram) while the cl does not. The seal needs to be removed from the glass if you are gonna use it as a mold to make a cf or fg panel.

I wanted to use the seal around the edge of my lexan but I don't think you can remove it without damaging it. Now I probably will have to seal it with only sealant and worry about leaks.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

The hand brake is lighter than the foot brake setup and its more fun,at least what I remember from my younger years.
Much more friendly at the drag strip I'm sure as well.

The aztec is to make some money from.
I will only have 900 into it and people around here have them listed at 3500 for same milage and year,not saying I will get 3500 but I definity will make a fat pay day when it sells.
Besides I sit home just playing with my tools so I decided to start buying some car to make money instead of just playing.

Not all of us have Ferrari owners in the family and get 10k just giving to them,or still live at home.

You don't like the aztek but,if you could pocket the money from the repair you would love it then.
Detailed the whole outside and half of the inside yesterday ,now waiting on the parts to be delivered.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Ferrari owners? Most any of my family members has spent on a car was 70,000 or less. I will have 10k in inheritance as the only inheritance I ever receive so don't see what the big deal is. What is with personal attacks anyway, I never insult you when it could be very easy to. Keep the talk to cars please.

I was just joking about how ugly the Aztek is, there was nothing more to it then that.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Back off RP

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I randomly was thinking how it would be nice to have a backup camera on my car for reversing since bucket seats don't really allow you to turn your body at all.

The problem is I don't want to add a screen to my car. I want to use my iphone as the screen. I don't care about having it only signal when in reverse etc.

I don't think there is anything that will do that yet that has been released to public. Something like the valeo wireless vue wi-fi rear camera.

Anyone have any info on this? I am gonna do some more research.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I decided to save myself a headache and only removed part of the passenger side wiring. I can't really get to the connectors or clips to remove the complete wire harness because the a/c/heater components are in the way.

What was removed. It weighs .12 lbs.


Left the mirror dimmer and visor light wires.



The sheet of lexan arrived today. I used the cardboard it came in as my template.


Traced on the lexan. Next up is cutting.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Ahh, but what about the properties around the residence below?
I kid, I kid. It's no ones f'ing business on here anyway.

How will you start the jigsaw process? By drilling a large enough hole on the peripheral edge of the line to fit the blade or just cut in from the very edge of the Lexan?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

What about those mirrors with built-in screens? You already have a mirror, so you won't be gaining a whole lot of weight from it.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

When I see that pic all I can think is ugly tow hook sticks out too far. That land is either empty lots or forest preserve land.

Either method would work with the jigsaw. I need to decide if I want to cut on the line or leave a little space to be safe and also whether I slightly melt the edge with the jugsaw and need to clean the edge up.

The other issue is the sealant. Any other lexan install I have seen for windows etc., there is a metal edge that the lexan overlaps where you can put sealant on. Our sunroof doesn't have a lip and goes straight up and down. What will keep sealant from falling to the ground ater I apply it? Should I cut the panel so it fits as tight as possible or leave a gap for sealant? Should I use tape or something underneath to hold the sealant in place till it dries?

Are you referring to ones you clip on top of the oem mirror or oem replacement. I want to get a racing mirror but would rather not have to clip it on the existing mirror. I was too scared to try and remove the oem mirror base, if it is even possible. Can't have both racing mirror and camera mirror. Hmm which would I prefer.

I would prefer to use wireless but then there might be interference issues.

I will look into them.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

lol, that's the reason I asked. The last time I had an experience with Lexan, although it was the regular thin clear stuff from HomeDepot, it would tend to melt if one were not real careful using the JigSaw. If I had the blade going to fast, it would melt. If the blade went to slow, the stuff would tend to shear off fragments at the edges. I most likely had an incompatible blade, as well.

I was thinking, would it be possible to cut the shape of the Lexan very close to the metal edge of the roof line where it lives. Then, somehow, pressure fit/seal the old sunroof rubber (or some other type of soft malleable Auto weather stripping) to the Lexan edge and tightly tuck it down into the recess to form a water tight seal? The shape of the Lexan cut out would have to take into consideration the added area of any weather stripping of course; however, if it is pliable enough, there in lies the pressure seal to keep water out, as well as, enough flexibility to get it to fit. Then configure a fastening system similar to RP's? That way one would not have to dick with sealant.

The only draw back if you experimented with the OEM sunroof seal is that it would not be reusable to the sunroof once it is removed from the glass.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I don't think you can remove the oem glass rubber seal from the oem piece. You will end up ripping it to pieces trying.

I tried looking at home depot, lowes, etc. for any type of rubber weatherstripping that would work. All they have is that foam stuff like I used under my dash.

I could buy the rubber seal for the 3rd or 4th gen tl and hope that it will work. Might stop by an acura dealer to get their dimensions.

The only way to really hold it up is with brackets like rp did. There really is no other way.

Do you think I can use these smaller brackets on the rear with just one mounting point with a self tapping screw?


Or should I use a longer bracket with 2 mounting points and 2 self tapping screws?