Those are the other exhaust heat shields, not including the cat one. This pic shows them.


Yes I did notice increased temps in the cabin. You can use that gold heat tape or something like the DEI floor and tunnel shield for that thou. It weighs a lot less than stock steel ones. I have some of the DEI floor and tunnel shield left if you are interested.

Here is the DEI floor and tunnel shield.


Gold tape

 

Sale thread has been posted.
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/garage-cleaning-nrg-harness-bar-js-racing-bar-ait-roof-spoiler-mugen-benen-ssr-877332/

 

I replaced more engine bay fasteners and also painted a few brackets and the square nuts used on the fan mounts.

 

Why did you thank that post civic?

I need to get or make a tool to remove the trunk springs. Does anyone have one for sale or that I can borrow. Any guide to making your own tool? Honda dealers want 40 for it plus said it will take 2 weeks to get it. F that.

Hmm I just found a thread on tsx-club where they removed the springs with a hammer and replaced with gas shocks. Interesting. Trying to see where he mounted the gas shocks. Can't post link on here tho.

 

Very nice, I have been thinking about getting some of that DEI floor and tunnel shield for a while

 

I have extra I can sell you for cheap if interested.

TRUNK SPRING/GAS SHOCK DIY
I removed the trunk springs. I don't recommend doing it the way I did. If you do it this way please be careful. It can be dangerous.

I followed the DIY posted on tsx-club forum.

All you need to remove them is a hammer of right size. Smaller the better.

Here is the $5 hammer I used.


Springs removed. They weigh approximately 1.5 lbs.


When I removed the first spring the trunk fell on my head. Trunk is really heavy without springs. When I removed the 2nd one it popped out and hit me in the mouth. My lip and tooth were stinging for a few minutes. Better than getting hit in the eye though.

I am gonna repost the DIY on here.

TRUNK SPRING/GAS SHOCK DIY

"Hey guys. A person named Solaris94 on Azine did this DIY and I can't believe this is the first time I've seen it. Big credit to this guy because this seems like a really easy DIY. Please don't rep me or anything because I am just basically passing on the information. This surely helped me and I know it will help a lot of people who wants to do this too. Enjoy.

NOTE: IF you want the trunk to pop up without assist, an 80 or 90 pound gas spring (individual) will not be strong enough. w00dman used a 500 Newton (which converts to roughly 110lbs) gas spring rate on the damper and that was enough to pop the trunk open without assist.

Some people use the 80lb gas spring rate because they wanted to remove the torsion bar because it is known to cause some rattling in the trunk. It is fully confirmed that at 80lb, there is no deformity to the structure of the trunk where it is mounted. w00dman has not say anything about the 110lb so for now, 110lb for each side SHOULD be fine regarding any deformity or warping of the mounting points".

"Here's the write up. Sorry it took so long. I actually reengineered the entire install since my last post. I wanted the installation to be simpler, and easier. I also decided to hide the gas springs between the hinge and rear panel, so it would not rub against the carpeted surrounds. I also redesigned the mounting point on the hinge, using the factory thru hole of the torsion springs to mount the ball studs. I have created a PDF file but don't know a place that would host it. So here it is in plain form".



Torsion Springs Replacement in
2005 TSX Trunk with Gas Springs
Author: Nick Ha
June 17, 2005

Disclaimer:

The following instructions are provided free of charge. Perform the following procedure at your own risk. All precautions must be taken. Use protective gloves and eyewear to prevent injuries to yourself and those around you. Read all instructions carefully before starting work. I will not be responsible for any injuries, void of warrantee, or none functioning trunk as a result of performing the following modifications. Now that we got the disclaimer out of the way, let’s begin. Good luck.

Parts You Will Need:

Most of the following parts can be found at McMaster-Carr. Just type in the part number in the search box, then click find. The part number and description of the part will be highlighted in the right frame, and you can order the part on the left frame. Other more common parts can be found at Home Depot, or any hardware store.

Parts to Mount to the Trunk Hinge:

Figure 1: Hinge Hardware

2X - Zinc-Plated Ball Stud with 10 mm ball - McMaster Carr P/N 9512K63
2X – 3/8” Locking Washers – Home Depot
4X – 3/8” Flat Washer (0.7” THK) – Home Depot
2X – Barrels, 1” Long, 5/16”-18 Thread – McMaster Carr P/N 90216A350

Parts to Mount to the Back Wall:

Figure 2: Back Wall Hardware

4X - #10 Self-Tapping Sheet Metal Screw, ¾” long – Home Depot
4X - #10 Locking Washer – Home Depot
4X - #10 Flat Washer – Home Depot
2X – Ball Bracket with 10 mm Ball – McMaster Carr P/N 9512K95

The Gas Springs:

Figure 3: Gas Springs Hardware

2X – Gas Springs, 80 lbs Strength – McMaster Carr P/N 9416K15
4X – Ball Socket Fittings – Black Steel Chromate – McMaster Carr P/N 9416K74

Note:
If you have a trunk spoiler or heavy application of Dynamat to your trunk lid, you have to use a stronger set of gas springs. In those cases, I would recommend ordering a range of gas springs to test which will fit your trunk best. I would start with 80LB and go up.

Installation:

The following illustrations show the gas spring replacement to the right hinge (passenger side) of the TSX. The installation to the left side (driver side) is the mirror image of these photographs.

Remove Torsion Springs:

Figure 4: Remove Torsion Springs

If you have a special tool to remove the torsion springs, use it. If not, do what I did.

1. Remove the plastic piece that holds the two springs together at the center of the rear deck.
2. Use a hammer and wedge it between one end of the spring, and twist it right out.
3. Do the same to remove the other spring.
4. Use the spring to prop up the trunk while you work.

Install the Ball Stud to the Trunk Hinge:

Figure 7: Install Ball Stud

Install the ball stud as shown. Picture was taken from underneath of the right hinge. The Ball stud should be pointing to the outside of the car, not the center of the car. In another word, it should be between the hinge and the rear panel of the car.

1. Insert the barrel nut thru the factory hole for the torsion spring.
2. Install ball stud, locking washer, and two flat washers on the other side.
3. Tighten the ball stud with a ½” wrench. Use a pair of pliers to hold the barrel nut while you are tightening the ball stud.
4. Do the same to the other hinge. Remember, the ball stud to point outside the car.

Install Ball Bracket to Back Wall:

Figure 8: Install Ball Bracket

Install the Ball Bracket as shown.

1. Locate the ball bracket between the two gussets in the back wall. Point the ball stub to the center of the car. Slide it to the top of the gussets. I used double-sided tape behind the bracket to let me use both hands to install the screws.
2. Insert the #10 self-tapping screws through the #10 locking and flat washers. Install the screws through the top and bottom holes of the bracket. Do not over tighten, or you will strip the holes.
3. Install the other bracket to the other side with the ball stud pointing toward the center of the car.

Install the Gas Springs:

Figure 9: Install Gas Spring

Install the gas springs as shown.

1. Screw the ball sockets to both ends of the gas spring.
2. Install the socket over the ball studs at both ends. Position the opening of the socket over the ball stud and snap it in place.
3. Do the same for the other side.
4. Test the operation of the trunk before replacing the carpeted surrounds".

I wanna try a setup like above. Hard to tell where the ball stud is mounted from pic since I don't have a tsx.

 

Those trunk struts are sweet.

I used vise grips when I removed my trunk rods.
I clamped them on the walked to the side of the car with only my arm in the trunk and popped them that way.
Alot less dangerous just worrying about a hand hit instead of one to the face.
Good thing is only has to be done once.

 

Indeed. I did it sitting inside my trunk. Not the smartest way to do it. Luckily I am unhurt.

Now to figure out how to mount struts.

 

There a trunk tool on 6thgenaccord . I believe .

 

Thnx, but i don't need it anymore.

 

Hmm it doesn't seem like it will be easy to figure out where to mount the gas shocks in the cl like it is with the tsx. Typical cl everything has to be so difficult.

There doesn't seem to be enough room or anywhere good to mount them. The tsx has alot more room whereas the cl only has a few inches. Here are some pics that show the difference.



Anyone have suggestions?

 

I had thought about removing my trunk springs and installing struts when I had my carbon fiber trunk on. The force of the springs would swing that trunk up so fast like a catapult. Id have to warn people so they wouldn't get whacked in the face... see my thread here;
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=trunk

It turned out the tension from the springs was keeping the trunk from siting flush. I didn't want to remove the springs and deal with the strut fabrication either. I couldnt live with the look of it any longer and took it off. Original trunk fit fine afterwards.

I still have the cf trunk, now that you removed your springs it should fit better. You want it?
Its lightweight.... lol.

 

The oem trunk with oem spoiler without springs or struts is just too heavy and makes trunk pretty nonfunctional. I think I have 3 options. Option 1: Leave it as is and deal with it. Option 2: install struts somehow. Option 3: cf trunk with no spoiler.

Pm me the details on the trunk. Are you saying it fits fine without springs? Fitment is my main concern. I like oem fitment. How much would shipping be to 60047? You can post here or pm up to you.

I removed the springs just because I am sick of the clunking noise it makes over bumps. Makes the rear suspension sound broken.

 

I was in the same predicament with the trunk struts some time back. I found a DIY write up on a maxima forum an he too had room to select where to put the brackets. I just couldn't find a good enough place in our trunk : (

 

It seems like the engineers designed every aspect of this car to be as difficult to mod as possible.. Atleast it isn't a hybrid.

 

Hmm maybe I should just fabricate an aluminum trunk prop rod.

 

This is what I think I will do. Just a simple, cheap, and light solution.
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/fabrica...-rod-jim-clark

I just ordered this evo rod for 18 shipped.
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...d_mr526083.htm

 

The evo hood prop rod isn't gonna work. It is barely over a foot long. I ordered one for a 2011 Lincoln mkz hybrid. Hopefully this one is long enough otherwise I will just make my own.

I am starting to second guess myself. Since the accord c pillar bar and roof spoiler fitment was so far off I am now concerned that the accord rollbar just won't fit or look right.

Then I am debating whether to install Ron Jon lip kit and fix my fender. Was gonna do a roll bar and cf sunroof panel also. Just not sure if I want to spend over 5 grand on all this plus who knows how many months of downtime there will be.

 

Good point about all the accord stuff .

 

Im a Thank-Whore

Wish I saw this sooner, I wouldve let you borrow my spring removal tool. Its so much easier with the tool.

I have the CF trunk on with no springs, its fits fine. Also have the cf hood. For sale btw

 

I am still undecided on cf hood and trunk. There is fitment, storage of oem parts, money, whether it needs paint, cf isn't sturdy enough for a spoiler or wing, plus I'd want hood pins for safety.

I kind of like my car looking stock outside, the police never look twice.

It's good to know it fits without springs. Do you have any pics?

 

I might have some pics of it, Ill find some for you.

 

Morgan just paint my white hood and trunk cmon .

 

Shipping would be a bitch though.

 

I bought new fender washers from downstarinc. They are the version 3 aluminum ones. Gonna use them on rear license plate also.



More fasteners


The hood prop rod arrived.

Cut a hole and applied touch up paint.


I bought the right sized rubber grommet from home depot. Insert in hole.


I put my rod in the hole(not being sexual at all).


I cut the end off so it will fit in the hole. Gonna plasti-dip it later.


Insert end in pre-existing hole.


My rod. It is stiff enough to hold my trunk up.


I drilled another hole in the only spot possible to put the clip. I found the clip in my box of honda parts. I used touch up paint and put a foam washer under clip to prevent vibration noise.


Full view of rod clipped down.

 

Nice .

 

All these holes, rods, boxes, and stiff things are getting me hot and bothered.

 

Why am I not surprised.

I ordered a new set of pedals from autovation in December and they finally arrived. They are the light weight race version. I got the accelerator and dead pedal smooth. The clutch and brake are grid pattern. I got them with the extra thru holes. They are anodized black with aluminum accents.

The mount holes are in different spots than my last set of autovation pedals so I am gonna need to drill more mounting holes. Here is a pic of them still in plastic. They gave me the auto e-brake pedal I don't need.

Since all the holes look the same I need to decide which holes to use screws in. On the other set the mounting holes were different so it was easy to tell.

 

Nice work again Brian, I'm also loving those pedals

 

I tryied to get info about the aluminum screws from the site and it says:
The account has been suspended.

 

Nice pedals!

 

Niccceeeeeee!!!!!

 

What exactly are you referring to?

 

I went here (downstarinc) to check sizes,prices,weight,etc about the hardware.
And It says the site has been suspended so I could not check into the info about the hardware.

Other places I've seen sell aluminum bolts for 3-5$ each.

I do have a question for you though.
I am wanting to remove my exhaust shields before this weekend and havent went out yet to look under the car because it's a little cold and windy.
Does one of the shields block exhaust heat from the gas tank?

 

brian6speed,
When I replaced my driverside seat belt last week I had to remove the left middle crossmember gusset to access the seat belt retractor unit. #25 on the link below:

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

I found my self thinking that this would be a nice reduction in weight IF someone made a lightweight replacement. It is made of heavy stamped steel and must weigh in around two to four pounds each.

 

Those are about 10.5-11 lbs each.

My floor scale just read 11.2lbs.
Not sure how acurate that is but,it's close

 

I am not sure why the website is down. It was up last week. Just check back. I thought about using plastic, nylon, aluminum, and titanium fasteners. The aluminum and titanium seem too pricey to me for the little weight they removed. I just decided to replace rusted stuff and visual bolts in engine bay with stainless hardware for looks and rust prevention.

One of the heat shields is close to the gas tank. That is the only spot I used the DEI floor and tunnel shield shown in my pics.

I have removed those numerous times and they are very heavy. I would need to find a fabricator I can trust to make me parts. I want to get a roll bar and rear strut bar made also.

I could sand down the metal some and do the hole drilling treatment, just would be worried about going too far since it is needed for structural support. Good suggestion tho.

 

Those pedals are sweet, I was looking at some from another site that are similar

 

I want to get your guys opinions on this. I was thinking of getting some bumper latches to make front bumper removal/reinstall a lot easier to do by myself.

This looks like the best option I have found so far as far as being both functional and sleek looking. It is the toxicfab bumper latch kit. It is pricey at $200 bucks.

Initial gb
http://forums.evolutionm.net/vendor-...latch-kit.html

Install thread
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how...ml#post9836497

Store
http://www.toxicfab.com/store/category/14-misc-parts

 

That doesnt look like $200 worth of parts to me.