you should get it weighed once you're done. not sure where they do that....i know they will at the dump

 

Yea I know a shop that corner balances for track cars so I assume they can weigh it for me. Plan on corner balancing before taking it on track. Unlike most weight loss threads my weight loss is more than I advertise it at. I am very eager to weigh it.

 

u still getting that cf sunroof delete panel?

 

Progress looks nice man!


For your next move, I suggest looking into stiffening up the body a bit by welding in cross bars where the sunroof goes right underneath whatever you choose to clog the hole up with, similar to this fashion but for your sunroof:

 

The panel will need to be custom made. I have not decided if I want to make it myself or not. Will need to do alot of research first.

I don't want to add unnecessary weight back up to the roof. I have been eying the auto power cages tho, for safety reasons tho.

 

The bars adding weight is a good point your mentioning. However, adding them could stiffen up your roof quite a bit.

 

First, the fixed roof is enough for the roof. Convertibles don't even have that. I would much rather add bracing further down like the floor bar or trunk bar. The reason to get a rollbar/cage is to protect occupant in a fixed bucket seat from roll over accidents. Also, the car is designed for 3500 lb curb weight plus 4 occupants. Mine should be under 3000 now and just me a 135 lb driver, so extra bracing might not be needed and would just be adding weight I'm trying so hard to remove.

 

i had my eye on the autopower cages also. when u call them (i asked about the one for the accord) they will ask if u have a sun roof or not. idk what the difference is between them 2. let me know how it goes

 

Not sure, but auto power isn't the best for knowing differences. For the accord they have it listed as 98-00 accord and 01 plus sedan. An accord owner with a 01-02 coupe asked auto power if the cage would fit his car and auto power said it won't fit. Another owner confirmed that it worked so auto power was wrong.

 

Updated prices in my for sale thread. Want this stuff gone so I can buy more parts.

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/jl-amps-morel-p2r-corsport-oem-vibrant-boston-etc-839510/

 

First, I wanted to ask if anyone knows if the navigation/onstar or the floor mats are included in the listed curb weight?

Here is a picture of my trunk finished. I removed all the extra tar and sealant that wasn't necessary and used a dremel with the felt brush tip to remove the tar residue from the sealant. I had some corrosion/rust on the metal cap where the spare tire is and also the other big metal piece. I cleaned off the corrosion and polished them both. I also made 2 rubber plugs for the holes but that isn't in the pic.

 

Yes, the navigation equpped 6MT CL is 15lbs heavier:

http://hondanews.com/channels/acura-...tions?query=cl

 

Small Update Progress

Removed another 17.3 lbs.

List of removed items

1. Remaining tar/sealant 2 lbs
2. Radio antenna .41 lbs
3. A-Pillars 1.44 lbs
4. Driver Visor 1.76 lbs
5. Passenger Visor 1.76 lbs
6. Dome Light .16 lbs
7. Roof Console .96 lbs
8. Roof Handle .23 lbs
9. Roof Hanger .06 lbs
10. Quarter Window Weatherstripping 1.22 lbs
11. Headliner 4.5 lbs
12. Metal Support Dash/radio 1.07 lbs
13. Metra Dash Kit & Card Holder 1.21 lbs
14. Stock Amp Trunk Wire .52 lbs

Headliner

Trunk section of stock amp wiring

Metra Dash, Card holder, & metal supports


Remaining moonroof, frame,motor etc next on list


I also weighed my rear zeal coilovers at 11.5 lbs each. My koni/neuspeed rear setup weighs 16 lbs each. I do not have stock to weigh.

 

Weight Reduction Progress
03 Acura CL-S 6
curb weight 3446 lbs
WHEELS
SSR wheels -32 lbs
Project Kics Lugs -1.05 lbs
TRUNK
Amp Wire trunk section -.52 lbs
Spare tire -29.5 lbs
Jack -3.63 lbs
Trunk tools -1.61 lbs
Trunk carpet floor -8 lbs
Trunk side carpet(2 pieces) -6 lbs
Trunk plastic -3.06 lbs
Trunk lid cover/fabric (don't have)
Stock amp -1.75 lbs
REAR SEAT
C Pillars(x2) -1.81 lbs
Rear decklid -3 lbs
Third brake light -.72 lbs
Rear speakers -3.58 lbs
Rear seat belts -4.4 lbs
Rear seat back -26 lbs
Rear seat bottom cushions(x2) -11 lbs
Rear seat console -7 lbs
Rear seat side panels(x2) -11 lbs
Sound deadening/rear seat a/c ducting -36 lbs
FRONT SEATS
Headliner -4.5 lbs
Metra dash kit and card holder -1.21 lbs
Metal support radio/dash -1.07 lbs
Driver visor -1.76 lbs
Passenger visor -1.76 lbs
Dome light -.16 lbs
Roof console -.96 lbs
Roof handle -.23 lbs
Roof hanger -.06 lbs
Quarter window weather-stripping -1.22 lbs
A-Pillars -1.44 lbs
Radio antenna -.41 lbs
Engine mount solenoid control unit -.31 lbs
Plastic piece under accelerator pedal -.14 lbs
Door Panels -22 lbs
Driver seat swapped for recaro -46.8 lbs
Passenger seat(can put back in when needed) -54.5 lbs
B Pillars(x2) -.93 lbs
Kick panels(x2) -.68 lbs
Center console -13.69 lbs
Carpet -23 lbs
Stock radio -6.07 lbs
Driver seatbelt -4.7 lbs
Steering column plastic -1.83 lbs
Front speakers -4.1 lbs
Mugen/ works bell steering wheel(stock delete) -5 lbs
ENGINE BAY
P/S hose bracket -.075 lbs
IMRC runner, bracket, & control module -2 lbs
Braille battery(15 lb) -23.5 lbs
Cruise control -2.81 lbs
Front bumper damper -7 lbs
Engine cover (not sure)
Small engine cover -.92 lbs
Plastic over radiator -1 lbs
Hood fabric cover (not sure)
Comptech strut bar (not sure)
Comptech headers (not sure)
XLR8 cat(probably -3 to -5 lbs) (not sure)
Zeal coilovers (not sure)
Option pulley -7 lbs
Random removed bolts and clips (not sure)
Front license plate and holder -1 lbs

Subracted weight I am sure of -415.45 lbs

ADDED WEIGHT
Stock spoiler (not sure)
Harness bar +10 lbs not installed yet
Harness +3.5 lbs
UR bar (not sure)
Cusco bar (not sure)

 

thnx, it looks like the weight I had listed was correct anyway, even tho i never thought about taking that into consideration.

 

If you have a dump or weigh station nearby, you should take the CL in and get it weighed just for confirmation.

 

I still need to fix this so was looking at what I should buy. Have a few questions. First off, I think you are right zeta and it is most likely the (inner shim(b)#17). With the Legend caliper swap should we be using pads made for legend over the cl? Also should we be using the (inner shim(a)#16) and the (outer shim,pad#19) for the legend or the cl? Also which retainers the legend or cl. I noticed the (legend#23) are $19.24 each x 4 whereas the (cl#14) ones are $3.74 x 4.

I am thinking just replace part #17 for legend and replace the 4 retainers with cl ones?

 

Good question, I'm running Hawk HPS #HP366F.681 on the front. These are the same pads that would be needed for the OEM single pot calipers. I've had no problems thus far. However, if the Legend pads have a slight size differentiation, and fit tighter in the retainers somehow, then that may help keep noise down.

Legend. I bought all three (#16,17 & 19) because they were relatively inexpensive and wanted to cover the pads with new OEM stuff meant for the Legend calipers, especially #17.

Good question, I used the retainers that came with my remanufactured Legend calipers when I performed the swap. I reused the OEM CL caliper mount that fastens to the knuckle. The Legend retainers that came with the caliper fit fine onto the CL caliper mounts. The OEM part numbers for the Legend retainers vs. the OEM CL single pot retainers are slightly different.

So, if I were going to replace the retainers, I would assume the ones the remanufacturer included were for the Legend and not the CL; however, there is no way to verify other then buy OEM Legends and compare them to the ones supplied with the Legend calipers.

Furthermore, the only thing I did to the retainers, when I installed the new shims, was bend them somewhat upward/downward, as they seat in the area of the caliper mount where they live. Thinking that this would 'snugly' sandwich the pads and reduce some of the slight up/down 'pad float' that is present when they (the retainers) would otherwise lay flat. Every little bit helps.

Definitely replace/add #17. The supplied Legend retainers, with your calipers, may still be OK. Just make sure to have your mechanic sufficiently lube the seats the retainers sit in on the caliper mount and the area of the retainer the pad ends rest in to help eliminate unwanted noise/squeaks.

Good Luck!

 

To help further answer your question about Legend pads vs. CLS-6 pads I found the Hawk pad specs for both the 95 Legend vs. 03 CLS:

'95 Legend:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hawk/486/HB143F.680/10002/-1

'03 CLS:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hawk/486/HB366F.681/10002/-1

It appears the Hawk CLS pads are slightly larger; top to bottom and the same pad end to pad end. I can't imagine the sizes from other aftermarket pad manufacturers would very that much more.

So, It's just a question of which retainers you would be more comfortable with.

 

I guess it just comes down to if you are using cl pads with cl brackets and legend calipers; do you match the outer pad shims and retainers up to the cl pads and brackets(buy parts for cl) or match those parts to legend caliper(buy those parts for legend)?

I was thinking since I am using cl pads and brackets wouldn't the outer pad shims and retainers be better off if they are from the cl? Not sure.

 

Honestly, I believe that you could get away, without issue, using all CL shims and retainers, except for the inner Legend shim #17. That shim is designed to be large enough to work with the duel piston contact area of the inner pad on the Legend calipers. The CL inner shim #11 is half the size, which it's designed specifically for the single piston caliper.

If the #17 shim does not help your noise issue, then the next step would be RL caliper/BBK install. If I were to do this again I would try the RL caliper conversion. Now, with the miles I have on my car, it just is not in the cards for me.

 

Anyone else have an opinion on this?

 

I wish I could help, but I dont have any experience with the Legend calipers. Id get the shim that zeta mentioned.

 

That is ok. I was going based on the diagrams, not real life experience. I would need all the parts in hand to know for sure, but I don't wanna spend that kind of money to figure it out. Maybe I should just sell them and buy rl calipers or the rb bbk.

Still got so much to do/buy I am gonna run out of funds and not have anything left for track days and tires. Sucks.

 

Whats the offset on those Type Fs?

 

Probably the highest offsets anyone on this forum has for aftermarket wheels +52. This way I can still fit a bbk and run bigger tires(255's).

I guess it comes down to whether you are better off with wider tires that weigh more or thinner tires that way less. I think inaccurate had 255's but went to smaller size to save weight.

 

I was gonna keep this to myself since i don't like posting about things wrong with my car, but thought some people on here might be interested in knowing. I am not sure if this only relates to my car(defect) or it is all cl's.

I have basically been spending alot of time just cleaning up the car, mainly rust and other stuff. There are a few problem areas I will post about.

This first pic is from the passenger side under the hood. I noticed a tear in the seam sealer and saw a little rust coming thru sealant so stripped the seam sealer and cleaned up rust. It is ready for primer and paint, then 3m seam sealer.


This 2nd spot is under the sound deadening on the back seat floor, passenger side. Been spending alot of time on this and letting it soak in rust remover gel. In the pic it is soaking in the gel now.


Here is the same spot from under the car.


Here is the same spot on driver side inside. I have not dealt with this side yet. It is not as bad as my passenger side but can still see rust coming thru sealant.


Here is what I am using.

 

Im nervous about pulling my carpet up. I went through hell with my Civic and rust, I dont want a repeat.

And with a +52, are you sure you have BBK clearance? I only ask because my Competitions are +48 and required a 7mm spacer.

 

BBK clearance would depend on which bbk. Some 2-piece rotors allow more clearance also.


Here is a small update. C-Pillar bar installed. Bar weighs 7 lbs.

 

I finished cleaning the rust out of that spot in the engine bay. I then primed it. Then sealed and painted it. Here are 2 pics I took.

 

Have a few updates.

Bought and mocked up my kill switch. Still need to run wiring. I first made one out of aluminum but it flexed too much so switched to steel.

Here is the paper template I made and the first aluminum panel.


Here is the steel template with kill switch mocked up.


Drilled holes and attached my foot rest pedal to the oem rest.


Had to grind down some of the bracket.




Removed 2 broken brake line clips and replaced.


More brackets removed/replaced



Removed passenger seatbelt, srs side airbag sensors and covers, floor/frame cap, few brackets.


Weights
Pass Seatbelt 4.84 lbs
SRS side airbag sensors 1.29 lbs
sensor covers .42 lbs

Applied skateboard grip tape to passenger footwell area. Driver side is next.


Bought my passenger seat. Recaro profi spg xl.

 

A lot of people that auto-x use the grip tape on the pedals too.

 

Damn I'm in shock you did all this weight reduction to a cl. I'm very curious to what your new weight will be also.

 

Yea I have seen that and plan to do same.

IMO heavy front wheel drive cars need weight reduction more than any other cars do. Also the cl has alot of extra weight that can be cut. I should be just slightly under 3000 lbs when I am done.

 

Only slightly??

I wont be happy til you hit 2700lbs


I keep thinking about stripping mine out. Its free, so....

 

Tanabe exhaust has been installed.

Here is what was removed. XLR8 cat, stock mid pipe, ct mufflers, stock heat shields.


I installed a strip of boom mat floor and tunnel shield where the stock shield was by the fuel tank.


I also applied some gold heat reflective tape.




XLR8 straight pipe and tanabe cat-back installed.





I put stainless steel cable ties around the rubber anchor mounts alos to limit the mufflers from bouncing.

I also have weights.

stock heat shields 6 lbs
stock cat and shield 11 lbs
stock midpipe 20 lbs
stock mufflers(14x2) 28 lbs
ct mufflers(13x2) 26 lbs
tanabe mufflers(16x2)32 lbs
tanabe piping 16 lbs
XLR8 cat 5.18 lbs
XLR8 straight pipe 2.91 lbs

So basically as mufflers go ct are lightest, then stock, then tanabe.

Full stock setup would be ~65 lbs. My setup is ~52 lbs. It is also better that the weight of mine is more in the rear also.

 

So I'm assuming this is a track car now correct? I didn't read through all of your pages but if it is couldn't you remove the ac/heat including everything involved with those? I'm sure that's a decent amount of weight. Also maybe even the power steering system but I'm not sure what you would use a manual rack from. I'm just throwing ideas out there. I'm not sure what your exact purpose is with the car or how far you want to go with it. So those might be out of the question. I'm sure you will easily be under 3000lbs. Good job on everything .

 

Don't think I'll ever get that low. Not going all out, I still have limits. Still want it street able. Plus I am adding some weight on with bracing, etc. Go for it if you don't mind people looking at you like your crazy.

Thnx for suggestions, but ac and power steering I plan on keeping. I still want it street able. Only weight saving I still have planned is moonroof delete, bbk with 2 piece rotors, and racing side mirrors(either apr or spa).

 

People already look at me as if Im crazy

 

Damn dude, you just made my mind up on the Tanabe Exhaust. I really love the mufflers. Now I just have to give someone my left nut to purchase Amazing progress on the man!