brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Forgot to mention I was still on the original mounts for this car. The front and rear looked fine, but the side was in bad shape.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Wait, I thought you said you installed the new mounts? You only installed the side mount?

I didn't have to bore out any holes on the side mount either to mount it to the frame. It was however warped requiring a longer bolt to reach the threads.

jdmsquad12

nice hope to see more pics i love this site because everyone does tings the rite way with no short cuts

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I installed all 3 XLR8 mounts. What I meant was that before installing the XLR8 mounts that my mounts had never been replaced before. They were still the mounts car came with when I bought it new in 2002. I did not need to use a longer bolt.

Thnx more pics will come for sure.

slowcl-s

iTrader: (1)

Beautiful build thread! If I didn't have a wedding to pay for, your route would be the one I would follow.

Any-who, In case you get tired of the vibrations from your new mounts. Myself and others have re-installed the rear OEM mount while retaining the XLR8 mounts and experienced very minimal if any vibrations w/out sacrificing the benefit of eliminating wheel hop.

When I was deployed my Pops had this done for me. It was a night and day difference and made the ole' lady much happier.

Keep it up brother!

edit *Also keep in mind I have Innovative mounts but I do know the rear mount absorbs most of the engine vibrations*

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

thnx, good info on rear mount. After driving today the vibrations dont seem as bad maybe they settled in a bit. I am all for performance tho so the vibration dsnt really bother me so far.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I wanted to ask for opinions on what to do with my suspension. I bought my zeal coilovers from brianlin87. He said they were functioning perfect and only had 5000 miles total on them. I installed them and was getting constant squeaking in the rear and a horrible metal on metal contact sound anytime I would go over bigger bumps/ uneven roads. Considering how bad roads are it sounds like someone is hitting car with a hammer constantly.

I reinstalled my koni shocks in the rear and the issue went away. I removed front zeal coils also and sent them in to be rebuilt. It cost me 600 for rebuild.

I get coils back reinstall and still have same issue. I am dumbfounded what is wrong and what to do. I replaced the rear moog sway end links and installed oem that didn"t help. Regreased the sway bushings that didn"t help. Tried adjusting spring preload.

So now what do I do? Send the coils to be rebuilt again or just dump them and go with koni's.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I also took it to my mechanic to see if he could adjust spring preload to fix it but after he adjusted still had issues. So I am wondering if it has to do with spring preload, if they didn't rebuild properly, are they not compatible etc.

slowcl-s

iTrader: (1)

I think I may have a solution for your problem....

Do you have coil spring isolators installed? When I had my Integra I had this same issue some call "Coil spring slap." It sounds like a serious clunking noise in the rear when going over bumps the metal on the springs slap against each other causing this awful noise. There are some items out there that twist up the coils so when they compress over bumps it is absorbed by either urethane or rubber (depending on the product)

Im sure you could pick up a universal item unless the brand of your coil overs sells some specifically for your setup.

Check this link out I hope it helps. http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=sku

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I don't have coilovers, so I'm not sure if this will pertain to your 'metal on metal' sound; however, I had a similar sound going on and one day when rotating my tires I noticed the the OEM rubber spring silencer tubes on my front/rear springs had degraded to crumbling rubber. These where in the top most portion of the spring where 'metal meets metal' under normal load of the suspension. Purchased new spring silencer tubes, Honda 52442-S0X-A01, installed and the noise went away.

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Arti..._or_thump.aspx

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Do you really think that will get rid of both the squeaking over all bumps and the metal to metal contact sounds cause it seems like 2 different issues too me. I get the metal on metal sound on any setting for coil but the squeaking I only hear from stiffness of 1-3. If I put it at 4 it seems too stiff for suspension to even compress on small bumps.

Do you just install that rubber coil in-between the top 2 springs or do you put it on the top part that contacts the hat. My koni's use the stock hat with the rubber above spring. The zeals just use an aluminum hat. Also if this is the issue why isn't it happening on the front zeals also?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Well, I can't really say without putting eyes on your particular set-up. Usually, when I have an issue with something mechanical and such, I look over the area of concern, real good, that I think is causing the problem and start from there.

In my case, the degraded silencer tubes stood out like a sore thumb. On the rear springs (CT-E springs), the tubes are placed at the bottom, so it is a little easier to observe when the car is sitting on the ground. I just placed them as far as the spring would allow, (while up on jackstands) then wrapped them in full length. If you choose to experiment with them, make sure to press them in good and tight. There is a strip of adhesive on the inner side that seats on the spring to hold them in. They were like $4 a tube online IIRC. The tubes on the fronts are seated on the spring at the top. Again, I cleaned the degraded old ones off and placed the new tube as far forward (with the car on jackstands, to decompress the assembly) on the spring as possible. I did not use them on the top that contacts the hat; however, while I was there, I did use new OEM rubber. At that time everything had about 115K. The reason you may notice it more in the rear versus the front is because of the lack weight? But I will say, if you can get some kind of insulation between the zeal aluminum hat, that may very well be the cause of the metal on metal noise.

Hope that helps your analysis.

slowcl-s

iTrader: (1)

It does seem to be 2 separate issues...

What kind of bushings do you have on your sway bars? I just replaced my bushings because every time I went over a speed bump or bumpy road it sounded like a squeaky bed post, lol.

Try hitting your bushings with some lithium grease and if it goes away but then later returns you need to replace your bushings.

Ever since I replaced my bushings with poly-urethane on my CT-RSB it is so much more enjoyable driving and not having people look at me funny when I drive through parking lots w/ speed bumps

slowcl-s

iTrader: (1)

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I agree on the spring isolater. Mine make the same clunk over bumps.

The squeaking sounds like it has to do with the valves in the struts themselves if it doesn't do it at harder settings.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I greased the bushings right before I posted about issue. I thought it was better to use synthetic or silicone grease over lithium and marine? I put synthetic on based on recommendations from car forums.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I wanted to ask for opinions on axles. My oem axle shaft has alot of corrosion and 1 has a crack forming so I want to replace before it snaps.

I would prefer oem but the price is insane. I tried contacting gatorracingaxles but they didn't reply to my emails and I have heard some negative reviews on them. I tried emailing raxles also and they didn't reply either. There are alot of negative reviews on GSP axles online. I do not want autozone/advance auto axles. The only place left to try and contact I know of is the driveshaft shop.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

DSS axles are expensive unless they are OEM replacements. Paul runs the GSPs from Advance Auto in his Accord without a problem. Theyre brand new axles, not remans.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I dont need beefed up axles oem was good enough for me. So besides really expensive ones GSP is my best choice? I thought I was reading on the 3g tl forum and they said with the gsp's that only one side fits right for the manual tranny car.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Might be a 3G issue. Im running the GSPs without an issue (knock on wood).

Aside from OEM, GSP, DSS, and possibly Gator, I dont know of any other brand new axles for our car.

The weird thing with the GSPs is its hit or miss if you can get an axle with the damper on it. But if you do, cover the seam where the damper sits on the shaft with silicone and let it cure for 24hrs. That should prevent water and dirt from getting in there and rust forming.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

My car is basically in storage mode now. Luckily I have a heated garage so I can work all winter. Have new goodies to install and work on.

I will be taking off my rear zeal coils and sending them back to get revalved and rebuilt and I will put spring isolators on also. If that dsn't fix the problem I am going back to koni's.

I had credit from excelerate so one of the items I bought was a moroso air/oil seperator. Also known as a catch can. Here is a link to one I bought. http://moroso.com/catalog/categorydi...?catcode=18549

It was bigger than I expected so there aren't too many areas I could fit it. I used the universal bracket that it came with, but cut the ends off. I decided to take the stock bracket, cut part of it off and reshape the end. I jb welded the 2 pieces together. I had to mount it to that one side so it could fit. Hopefully it is strong enough to hold it up. I still need to install the fittings and hoses and powdercoat bracket but this was just a test fit.

Here are the pics.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Three things:

1 - I hate you for having a heated garage.

2 - I hate you for having a spotless engine bay.

3 - If you want to save some money, you can use enamel paint on that bracket then toss it in the oven for a few minutes to cure. Its not as tough as powdercoat, but its tougher then regular paint. Unless you plan on doing a batch order, in which case just toss it in with the other things to be powdercoated.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Sorry. Engine bay still isn't clean enough for me.

As for painting I did the enamel in the oven for that big bracket that holds the clutch fluid container and ended up chipping the paint in 2 spots when installing. I have a huge batch of stuff that needs to get powdercoated so will do a batch.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i just got GSP axles and they fit fine but no balancers though and im not sure if that good or bad thing but if i were you i would swap axles asap... they were rusted bad

love your engine bay looks like showroom condition to me

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Call their toll free number for best results, 800-257-8192; 8:30to 5:00 M-F; EST. I talked to a guy named Marty, IIRC, he is the owner. I have about 10K on mine and they were of the highest quality upon receipt. The axles have the dampers and they do not utilize any far east components. The only cores he will accept are the OEMs and the core charge will be waived. Return shipping labels are provided using the original boxes. With shipping up north, they should only be around $170 each, maybe less.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Here is an updated mod list.

03 CLS6 mod list

Exterior
- SSR Type F Wheels 18x8.5
- Project Kics R26 lug nuts
- Hankook Ventus RS-2 tires
- OEM spoiler with clear light
- 35% tint all-around
- 3M Paint Protection Film
- Phillips 5K bulbs
- NSX front A emblem
- custom front fog vents

Interior(gutted)
- Pspec SS
- Voodoo titanium shift knob
- circuit hero shift lever extender
- autovation pedals
- Passport 8500 radar detector hardwired
- Works/Bell short hub
- Works/Bell Quick Release
- Mugen steering wheel
- Custom seat brackets
- Recaro sliders and sidemounts
- Recaro SP-G III ASM Limited II bucket seat
- Takata harness and shoulder pads

Engine
- Comptech Icebox
- P2R TB spacer
- P2R thermal gaskets
- bored TB
- ported IM
- P2R Plenums
- 07 TL-s exhaust valve springs
- ported runners
- IMRC and air assist to runner delete
- EGR spacer
- NGK spark plugs
- Option UD pulley
- Mugen cooling mods(thermostat, fan switch, rad cap)
- Modded slave cylinder
- Steel clutch line
- Hybrid Racing shifter bushings
- CDD delete
- Comptech headers
- RT HFC
- CT Engineering mufflers
- JDM Civic Type R oil cap
- Sun Auto hyperground kit
- Braille 15lb battery
- XLR8 engine mounts
- NRG torque dampers(2)
- Moroso air/oil separator

Suspension/Chassis
- Zeal Function T coilovers
- SPC front camber kit
- Ingall's rear SmartArms adjustable links
- Moog swaybar endlinks
- Eibach FSB
- Progress RSB
- Comptech STB
- UR 4 point lower brace
- Cusco tiebar

Brakes
- Legend 2 piston calipers
- EBC Ultimax slotted rotors
- EBC redstuff pads
- XLR8 brake lines

To Install(already bought/have)
- ES RR bushings
- Omnipower clutch MC
- NRG universal harness bar
- Tanabe Medallion Touring cat-back exhaust
- XLR8 test pipe
- TL front lip
- C-pillar bar
- RM Racing s2k fuse box cover
- custom gauge pod over steering column(fits 2 gauges)

To Buy/Do
- RB 2-piece rotors
- TL kit buy sideskirts and rear, mold front
- sunroof plug
- autopower rollbar/cage(maybe)
- AEM water temp gauge
- Master Battery Cutoff switch with alternator protection
- Aasco flywheel(maybe)
- Passenger seat

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Im actually kind of surprised that you want to do the TL kit. Theres a c-pillar bar available for our car? Also interested in the sunroof plug.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Yea I am not 100% sure yet if I will fully go thru with it. My plan was always to keep the exterior stock looking to avoid attention.

The C-pillar bar is gonna just be a custom made piece. There was a c-pillar bar made for the 6th gen accord that would fit our car but it was only for 1 groupbuy and is very rare to find now(J's Racing) brand.

I need to remove my headliner and the assembly. Then I will probably drop the glass off at a shop I know that does cf work and get a panel made. I can see about getting more than 1 made but don't wanna get in trouble selling on here so I can just pm you about it. Not sure when this will happen.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

No reason to pull the headliner and everything. You can remove the glass with everything mounted in the car. Remove the plastic pieces from the side of the glass, and the four bolts are right there. Watch out for the little spacers though. Dont lose them.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Here are some of the items removed when the engine work was done. I should have weighed the runners, IM, and tb to see how much metal was shaved away.

- IMRC runner & bracket -738g=1.63 lbs
- IMRC control module - 124g=.27 lbs
- plastic piece under accelerator pedal - 62g=.14 lbs
- engine mount solenoid control unit - 140g=.31 lbs
- p/s hose bracket - 42g=.075 lbs

I removed the passenger side door panel. I think I might just leave it removed. I will weigh it tomorrow when I get a chance. I still had the speaker mount holder and the dynamax on so I removed that, cleaned everything up, removed all of that stock white plastic and yellow glue which was a bitch to remove. I also cut out the stock tweeter wire and the door light wire since I never plan on using/needing them.

These 2 are after I removed the sound deadening.



Here it is all cleaned up.


Here is what was removed.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

going for the lightest cl?

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

I think he already is

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I will never be the lightest cl considering cocoa's first gen cl. Now if you are referring to 2nd gen only then maybe but who knows what isn't posted on here.

My goal is just to get under 3000 lbs. I would be happy with 2999 lbs. removing weight is addicting. You set limits but that doesn't stop you.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I wanted to point out that without the window switch from the passenger door panel armrest you cannot open/control the passenger window even from driver side. I used cable ties and attached it in-between the door wires. I also used 2 3/8" locking cable clips to keep the wires from moving and clanking against the door metal.




I was going through my storage and stumbled across these 2 2nd gen cl brochures from back in 2000 before the cl was even released.


I should be posting a for sale thread today or tomorrow with stuff I don't need or decided against using.

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

WOW Sweet !!! I looked at a used 2002 CL-S auto with Nav that was silver and mint cond. 66k miles for $12k. 18" mesh wheels with polished lips. Is that a little high ?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

thnx. MY 03 6 speed with 110k miles is worth 6-7k. 12k is really high. You should also research the auto tranny. They were/are defective and acura never fixed the problem. Personally I would avoid an auto cl unless you plan on swapping the tranny to a 6 speed or a newer auto tranny like 07 tl etc when the stock tranny craps out.

joejsn

how long would it take to raplace an intake manifold gasket? anybody?
thanks.

rush

iTrader: (1)

20mins for someone that knows what to do

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Update Progress

22 lbs removed from both door panels

I removed the driver door panel, removed left over speaker stuff, sound deadening, and the white plastic and glue. I removed the door light wiring from the harness, and wrapped some parts in duct tape. I wrapped the wires where I mounted the controls to help stiffen the wires up to hold better. I used 2 1/2" cable locking clips to keep cables in place. I basically forced the control unit between the 2 wires then cable tied it up. I used foam tape and foam/felt tabs behind it to stop any movement or noise. I mounted the mirror and trunk latch above the main control and used double sided tape to attach it.



Here is the engine bracket that holds up clucth fluid reservoir etc after I removed it. I removed all the rust(was alot), primed and painted it. Don't have a pic of it after paint tho.




Here are 2 teaser pics of the tanabe exhaust.



My next big weight project will be the headliner, moonroof and moonroof assembly. After that there is not much left to remove besides very small stuff.