I will make a plug, but not in time for the meet. Not sure yet what material I will use. Never worked with fiberglass or cf before. Spending 250 plus on materials just hoping it turns out well makes me a little nervous.

No lexan for me. If I was gonna take it that far I would remove the a/c and heater first. Want the car still to be functional. So far the only thing I really miss is my stereo system. Not having cupholders isn't so bad. I just bring a bottled water instead of drinking and spilling pop down the center console.

 

Have you done any gas mileage comparison tests? You HAD to have improved your mpg since the car isn't dragging as much weight anymore.

 

Do the plug in cheap FG first, and work it until you are comfortable with the results. Then you can move to CF if you want to. Thats what I planned to do, but never got around to it. I have a spare sunroof glass that I was going to use as a template too.

 

I havn't kept track of gas mileage much. I rarely let my car go below 3k rpm when driving. Last time I tracked a tank of gas with pretty aggressive driving it was 21-22mpg. Thanks for reminding me though, I can track the 8 hour drive to KC in 2 weeks and see how it does on the highway.

You can make me a plug then.

 

Replaced some suspension parts today. Don't have any pics though, sorry.

Replaced Parts

-Radius rod bushings with Energy Suspension

-Front lower control arms

-Inner and Outer tie rods

-Rear leading arms

-Rear upper arms

-Rear Koni shocks with new rubber

-Rear H&R race springs

 

I cut out the template for the stoptech 2 piece bbk for the tl/tsx. It does not clear my 18x8.5 +52 wheels. I need a few more mm. So either a 5 mm spacer or wheels that are 18x8.5 +48 or lower offset. I don't want to run spacers and not looking to swap wheels right now, so guess I am sticking with legend calipers for awhile. So you were right oh wise civic. I am disappointed.

I will need a high offset to fit my 255/35/18 tires so it is all about a compromise between the 2. Maybe 18x8.5 +48 would be perfect for those 2 factors.

 

That sucks. I thought my 18x8 +48 SSRs would clear the RLs, but they required a 7mm spacer. That killed my hopes of running a 255 on them.

 

Any noticable difference in the feel of the front suspension with the new ES RR bushes?

Just wondering since you have managed to reduce a good amount of weight on the car.

Thanks.

 

Yea, how's the car feel with all the new suspension parts?

 

I am having an issue with my radiator fan that just popped up after installing suspension parts so can't drive it ATM. My radiator fan only runs when the a/c fan is also running. When I shut car off fans shut right off. Could that be anything besides the fan switch?

 

Which fan is it that is running? There are two, one specifically for the rad and one for AC. IIRC, the one on the left if youre looking at the engine is for the AC. If thats the one thats on, jump the power on the other directly to the battery.

It could be the relay, the fan itself, or the fan switch.

 

If I don't have the a/c on then neither fan runs. If I turn on the A/C they both run. The fan works so it must be either the relay or the fan switch. Would it most likely be the fan switch A? Also both fans shut off as soon as i turn the ignition off.

 

Just wanted to ask if anyone knows of a harness bar/ where to buy one that is over 50.5"?

I measured the distance of our b-pillar at 51". I ordered the nrg universal 50.5" bar. When I measured the bar it was 49". When I went to install it, it is over 2" short. No way to tell if they even sent right bar since it has no part number on it, just the box it came in.

I could swap my c-pillar bar but that is not recommended as a harness bar. I could also buy the autopower bar but that would require drilling many holes in the car. I could also get the autopower bar/cage or custom cage welded in.

Test fitting all these parts is starting to get old.

Fendarolla has a 55" nrg harness bar listed in his sig for his 3rd gen tl. Not sure where you can get a 55" and whether that would fit a car that is 51".

 

Call NRG

 

Here is how the harness bar is installed atm. I could angle the end pieces more, but then the angle to the pillar would be really off. I also have the lower arms extended as far as possible so I can't angle the top up anymore. Used alot of grade 8 washers and long grade 8 bolts.



Ingall's stiffy mount installed. I bought an extra bracket and cut the end off to use on driver side to even stb out.



Finally removed that last piece of tar sound deadening under the dash. It weighed .66 lbs.




I drained my oil catch can after approximately 500 miles. Not that much oil came out.


I noticed when I removed the door panels, that I was missing the door handle protectors. The bodyshop must have not reinstalled or misplaced them when they painted the car. They seem to be fine without them. They weigh .47 lbs


I want to be able to use my phone for music/navigation wiithout draining its battery. I decided to remove the 12v socket from my removed console. I cut a hole in my killswitch panel for it. I also plan on adding a voltmeter gauge above it. I bought a duracell 175w pocket power inverter and velcro'ed it down. It has a 12 volt wall socket and a usb. I also painted the panel flat black.

 

Honestly, I wouldnt feel comfortable with the harness bar installed like that.

 

I have a feeling I won't be able to make it to the KC meet so that gives me more time to sort it out.

 

I have a feeling I won't be able to make it to the KC meet so that gives me more time to sort it out. I don't think anything but autopower or custom will fit. Maybe my car will be ready in 2 more years.

 

BTW thanks for all the replies in my thread civic. Without you posting I would just be talking to myself. Noone else besides maybe zeta posts helpful info. Everyone else just posts when they want to make fun of you for buying tow hooks.

 

I am pretty brain dead when it comes to electrical. The Helms lists 'tests' that one can perform on the relays and the fan switch A. Lucky for us 6-speeds that there is only one fan switch.

Since the condenser fan relay and rad. fan relay are readily accessible, I would start there. The relays are $4.97/16.89ea. online, #2 on the link below. I'd try the rad. relay first since the A/C fan comes on when you turn the A/C on.

In addition, pull the rad. relay and look to see if there is a part number on it because the parts diagram below shows three #2's. You may have to call the dealer to confirm.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

If it turns out to be the fan switch A, then you may want to consider getting the Mugen cooling mods. If you don't already have them. This may also aid in keeping the engine cooler on Track days; however, they are pricey.

37760-XK5-00N0 Fan Switch $61
19301-XGMR-0000 Thermostat $91

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-frequently-asked-questions-52/mugen-t-stat-correction-447952/

Good luck.

 

I really want to see your car.

 

I already have the mugen cooling mods. I am thinking that the mugen fan switch is the issue. According to the helms symptom troubleshooting that should be the problem. If that is not it I will check the relays.

Hopefully I can still make it if I sort out my car issues.

 

lol, I thought I read somewhere early on in this thread that you had the cooling mods.

Just wondering, what approach did you use to fish out that dash temp. sensor near the windshield?

 

I ended up buying a pair of 90 degree bent pliers from harbor freights. I was able to grab on to the metal clip(middle piece in the below pic) and force it out. Only took 2 minutes with these pliers after spending over an hour before trying.


Thought I would post a pic of my tb coolant bypass and also the air assist bypass.



On my p2r tb spacer I sanded the powdercoat off the top section and polished it so the lettering stands out and a lil personal flavor.


Here is a better pic of my battery with wiring cleaned up more.



As far as the relays, all 3 look identical and have no part numbers listed on them so not sure if it matters which you order.

 

I swapped the relays around and it still functions the same. I noticed it kinda smells like burnt coolant in my engine bay, wonder if it could be the radiator not functioning properly.

I don't have the tools to test it so will bring it to my shop this week.

 

Your looking at the condenser fan relay and radiator fan relay in the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay box on the passenger side near the fire wall?

I just pulled the cover of the fuse/relay box and the two relays above had the following printed on the top:

OMRON
68HN-UA-007607
0522A33B

If you look at the third #2; on the link below, it seems to tie to:
39794-S0K-A01 RELAY ASSY., POWER (4P) (MICRO ISO) (OMRON)
Still may need to confirm with the dealer though.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Also, there appears to be a 20A condenser fan fuse next to the 'cooling fan relay' (under the fuse puller) and a 20A cooling fan fuse next to the 'spare fuses' area in the middle of the fuse/relay box.

 

Good catch on brand name. Atleast they are the cheaper ones. If it was the fuse wouldn't the fan not run at all?

 

Good question. One would think so.

However, what you may be experiencing, with both fans only running when the A/C is on and then shutting down when you turn the ignition off, is a 'limp mode' for the cooling system when an electrical component other then a fan motor, fails. Pure speculation on my part though.

I bet your shop mechanic will know once you present/describe the issue.

It's hard to believe that it would be the Mugen switch A. I've had mine installed since late 2003 and have had no problems thus far. My ScanGauge always reads 186F coolant temp. when I feel the fans come on when buried in stop-and-go traffic.

 

It seems the fan is working properly now. Not sure if it was a fluke or I am imagining things.

I will still be attending the KC meet. Can't wait for next weekend.

I am trying to research what alignment specs I want for a street/track car.

I have decided on -1.5 camber for the front, but still need to decide rear. I am assuming I want some negative toe out. Is 1/16" toe out a good setting for rubber bushings? Then positive caster. Can our camber kits even dial that in?

Got the alignment scheduled for Monday morning.

As far as the harness bar, for now I am just gonna try swapping my c-pillar bar over to the b-pillar and use that as a harness bar for now.

I also wanted to ask do the koni yellows have a seperate adjustment for rebound? I did not see how to adjust it.


Here are basically my plans for the next 2 years. Buy and install a autopower race roll bar, and maybe eventually upgrade it to full cage.

Fix my rear fender, or do a full widebody so I can fit wider wheels and tires.

Fit a bbk.

Install new clutch and omnipower mc

Moonroof delete/cf panel

Maybe some aero mods

I think that will be plenty to keep me busy and broke.

 

Good to hear.

When I did the throttle body coolant bypass mod before the S/C'er install, a decent amount of coolant spilled onto the switch A. Sprayed out the male and female areas of the switch and connector with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to eliminate any hassles down the road.

Now that you have driven the car, how does the front suspension feel with the new RR bushings vs OEM?

 

Could have just been air trapped in the system messing with the fan switch

And I can't wait for next weekend either!

 

I ended up removing the j pipe section of the comptech headers to replace the gaskets. For the part that connects to the cat, I bought the gasket from advance auto for the generic exhaust for our car. It is not a o-ring compression gasket like the oem or comptech gaskets.

I noticed on the comptech headers, the side that connects to the cat, there is a metal lip that sticks out inside the piping that holds the o-ring gasket in place. The gasket I have is wider than that part, so I decided to grind that lip off. It opened the pipe up some. Not sure if this helps any or how much.

 

Tried to get as much done today as I could. Spent probably 12 hours just today. I have a car meet/bbq at shop I use tomorrow plus the kc meet next weekend.

I washed, clayed, and waxed the exterior. I did one coat of zaino z-5, 2 coats of z-2 and finished it off with clear seal. I use z-6 spray between each application, and finish off with z-8 spray. Don't have any pics atm.

I finished cleaning the interior and wiped it all down with z-6 spray, interior detailer, and vinyl dressing.

I applied skateboard grip tape to driver side.



Removed the c-pillar bar and moved it to b-pillar. Angle of b-pillar is steeper than c-pillar so I had to grind down the back of the bracket some to fit it better. I also mounted my gopro camera to the harness bar.


Installed both seats and harnesses. Installed recaro side protector on the driver seat.

 

I replaced my 9 year old intake filter. I also used the remaining heat defense tape to wrap the intake tubing.

 

Nice, looks real clean. Have you got it weighed yet?

 

Thnx. I have not weighed it yet, where is the best place to get that done?



I have a few pics from the meet today.

One of the first 86 scion fr-s's. I know civic will like this.

 

I installed the tires today. Fender clearance does not seem to be an issue, especially how high the car is. The main concern is front suspension clearance, specifically the knuckle.

I did not get it aligned yet. I wanted to drive it and see if the tire is rubbing the knuckle at all. I didn't hear any noise or rubbing on the drive back. I inspected the tires and see no signs of rubbing also.

I don't know if or how much negative camber I can dial in on the front. From the looks of it now there is only 2-3mm of clearance. Should I be concerned about tire expansion from driving and heat?

Here are some quick shots I took.








Here is the knuckle clearance.




In retrospect, a wheel in 18x8.5 +45 or +48 would be ideal for me. It would provide a lil more room for the suspension knuckle and also fit a 2 piece stoptech bbk. So if anyone wants 255 tires plus bbk that is setup you want.

 

Here are some pics from the other side of the knuckle that shows it better.




From these pics it dsn't seem so bad.

 

If the top part of your knuckle is conneted to the upper ball joint, wouldn't adding camber also adjust the knuckle accordingly.( I'm not sure if im thinking straight right now.)

top part of your tire wont flex any, only the bottom will flex at the "cantact patch".

how does the rear clearance look (tire clearance from the shock tower)?

 

Good point. I think you are right. The rear clearance seemed fine, but I was focusing on the front. I will recheck it.