fsttyms1

For the most part, The internals were strong on the autos. It was a design flaw in a few areas that didnt allow for the proper amount of fluid which wore down the clutch packs quickly (<-- Rebuilt 2 trans and had a total of 5 failures before converting it to manual)

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

^^^
This.

Certain parts of the transmissions were not receiving ample fluid and would cause component failure. I've literally dismantled one that went bad and found rainbow coloring effects on components. Honda responded with a different software program as well as enlarged fluid control jets that did nothing/very little to imrove the problem. But hey, I still think Honda is Top Dog considering how many recalls/TSB's all other manufacturers have opposed to them.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

List of crap to be done:

* No power brakes, pedal is hard and feels like possible bad brake booster. I'll have to recheck vacuum source going to the booster and take it from there.

* Have a P0843 code stored in ECM that indicates the transmission pressure switch #2 has a circuit fault and therefore is not allowing any gears changes above 3rd gear. Could be something as simple as disconnected or broken pressure switch. I bought a factory ECM j35a8 from an 07 TL-S auto a few months back that will help decrease the massively altered wiring harness I made to merge the the 04 TL 3.2 sub harness with the 07 TL-S engine primary harness. This will simplify the altered wiring and increase overall reliability as well as appearance.

* Need to buy an HVAC control head so that I can get my heating and air back as the piece was sold to a lady back in the late summer who had kids and no AC so I obliged her by giving her mine to keep her kids cool. $35.00 on car-parts.com.....no sweat.

* Car seemed to have somewhat of a slow crank after road testing it today after I pulled in, killed the car and then tried to restart it. May be bad battery (from sitting) or faulty alternator.

* Drivers side cooling fan rubs when commended on by ECM and makes slight irritating noise at times so ill have to remove the front fascia, intercooler and condenser to find out where I can make adjustments at. This is an extremely TIGHT space but was the perfect solution for the problem I encountered with turbo manifold diameters enlarging due to heat wrapping and shielding.

* the drivers side transmission seal is torn up pretty badly and must be replaced (again) due to the axle length not being correct on engine installation and kept popping out when car was moved around the shop. Also seems like I may have felt a moderate shimmy in the same front drivers axle today under a short 2-3 second hard acceleration. May have something in the steering or suspension system that is loose or worn out and in need if replacement or maintenance.

* I need to do some additional heat shielding underneath the car where the exhaust system travels towards the back between the exhaust itself and the underside of body within the tunnel. Seems to have radiated some major heat last summer and don't need that coming back anytime soon.

* Both my hood and front left fender were damaged while in storage somehow and need to bring attention to these two pieces. The fender will be replaced but the hood (instead of being replaced) will be modified and converted into a cowl induction which is convenient due to the location of the dent in the top center near the window.

* I have a set of 07-08 TL-S Brembo calipers and front rotors that still needs to be fitted and installed by spacing the rotors from the hub about 1/2" and cutting off the factory dust shield with a grinder. Other than this, they are a direct bolt up....believe it or not.

* Install remote oil filter setup and oil thermostat and route all accompanying hoses/lines.

AND THIS IS ALL THE BEGINNING.

BB6J35A8

I followed you over here from a couple of different web sites. You seem to have a ton of knowledge about these "J" builds and I have a ton of questions LOL. Love your build and I am completely impressed. Hope to talk to you soon.

BB6J35A8

Thanks again for your help! I'm just trying to learn the correct way to get where I need to be.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Hey no problem Daniel. It was good to talk to you and hopefully you get matters sorted out with that build of yours. Any Prelude with a j35a8 6MT deserves both respect and a helping hand from me.

Merry Christmas everyone!

MAS

iTrader: (3)

Re-subscribed!!

Grigio4G

I may have to consult a doctor. Erection lasted for more than 2 hrs after reading the entire thread.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Lmao

***UPDATE***

The car took a loss today. But for a good reason. Lost my clock...but gained an awesome spot to mount my EGR monitor display. No need to panic though, the radio ALSO displays the time.


In addition to this, all the wiring I installed into the car when the j35a8 was swapped has been cut/ripped out of the car today. I've decided to properly blend the Accords original wiring alongside the harnesses for the engine swap into sectioned, clean, serviceable harnesses. I am also currently debating wether or not to use the 08 TL-S dash and electronics but this is still only in "contemplation mode" and this all depends on how much work it takes to get all current electronics and wiring where it needs to be.

HickamHatch

On your brakes, if you removed the check valve at any point in time. Reverse it and see if it was just accidently insalled wrong.

fsttyms1

I was just going to ask the same thing.

flexer

Subscribed. Great thread. Any plans on things you can do to the auto tranny to hold more power? Turn up line pressure? Run large tranny cooler? Or do you think you will be ok as long as you lift between shifts?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

how did it go with the other member with the parts? any luck?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I literally just learned that the check valve is an integral part of the vacuum hose from the intake to the booster. I figured it may have been internal to the booster itself. Now that I know, I'll check this next.

I also considered the possibility of low vacuum from the cams...

I honestly won't worry about the transmission until I experience an issue with it. Until then, I take a lot of preventive measures to ensure a long (as possible) lifespan. Yes, I do run a trans cooler. I run stock line pressures. I honestly believe the lift on WOT shifts along with frequent synthetic (Amsoil) fluid changes are the secret to any lengthy Honda V6 auto trans.

No luck but thank you for the lead. Much appreciated Anil.

fsttyms1

Take it off and try to blow thru it from both ends. Air should only go thru from one end.

If it was from the cams your brake pedal should get better driving when the motor is creating more vacuum

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You and Matt were dead on. Walked over to my car today, took the hose off between my booster and vacuum distribution block. It was on backwards and the funny part is I never removed that since the cars been driven last time with the 3.5 installed.

I'm almost positive someone (probably off Acurazine) broke into my shop and flipped it over on me as a foolish prank. Hehehe

fsttyms1

Wasnt me

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Sure it wasn't ^^^

So I have somewhat of an update for my fellow Acuraziners:

As I stated on the last update, I've ripped out all the wiring to merge the swap harness into the stock Accord harness to give it a cleaner look. I've put quite a bit of time into this and what's funny about it is that I haven't even started any of the work yet. What I mean is that I've put an immense amount of work in notes and putting all down on paper so that when it comes time to actually doing the work, I'll be able to build the harness in my living room while watching all my recorded Top Gear (UK version of course) episodes that I've been saving for this exact reason.

Here's a few screenshots of the single most important document I have so far:






Basically you can see towards the last one or two of the shots that I've listed 8 destinations that the harnesses must be ran to from the ECM or custom fuse/relay block I've made. I've taken measurements already inside the Accord to all 8 destinations from the ECM itself using a tape measure and once I've determined which circuits are routed where, I will build/construct the harness in accordance to the notes I've made following both the factory Accord and TL-S diagrams. I've (as closely as I can while merging) accurately reflected the TL-S diagrams to match the Accords wiring while retaining specific pin/connector locations, actual circuit colors, original relay and fuse configurations so that they are nearly identical (with very few differences) to the factory wiring diagrams of each model. In other words, if I had an electrical issue pop up on the engine harness between the engine itself and the ECM inside the car, I can still use the factory diagrams to identify the issue even though I'm tracking down an intermittent short on a fuel tank pressure sensor circuit fault. Get it??? Naw, me neither!



In other MORE INTERESTING news, I've finally been encouraged to move somewhere on the J37A2 engine that I mentioned buying some weeks back from the 09 RL. I sold the short block to an Acurazine member (who's name I'll keep anonymous unless he lets the secret out himself) and pulled the heads off of to get something unique going on here with my build. The heads as most of you may or may not know are the dual VTEC heads meaning the carry variable lift on BOTH intake and exhaust valves rather than the typical intake only VTEC that all other j-series have been up till now. The big deal with these heads on a performance aspect is that the cams have freakin' 6 lobes per cylinder! They are a totally new and different design from the traditional ones and I want BIGGER cams (will at least more lift on the secondary lobes) and will have the cams sent out to someone once I find someone that's willing to either regrind these -OR- grind some from billet slugs. I'm hoping that the regrind is possible due to cost efficiency as opposed to full out custom grinds but I've been enlightened by several different people that this may not be possible.

While that's going on, the heads will be reworked by both a machinist and myself to reclassify them as WILD. I want to have them cleaned and manga fluxed for cracks or fractures, then I'll check the bearing journals and other important areas like the valve guides/seats for excess wear and/or damage and if all looks good, have them resurfaced, maybe a 5-angle along with a deshroud on the valves to give them a good base. Then, I'll do all the porting/polishing myself and hopefully by then, I'll know enough on the cams to determine wether or not I'll need stronger springs, retainers and locks.

I'm pretty excited about these heads. Apart from all that, I can say (and have said before) that they will definitely work on the engine. Ive confirmed that all oil drain and supply holes match up along with all other things and I'm running with zero doubt on this one. Until then, this is all I got for now. Thanks.

fsttyms1

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

are these heads better than the older J32A2 version that use "headers" as opposed to the newer style with just one exhaust per head? I'm not wording this right but i hope you get what i mean, lol.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I think I do, yeah.

They're better IMO due to many reasons:

1. The intake ports have an improved port shape that increases airflow as well as improves the blend/suspension of the intakes air charge. All other 08 and below heads did not have this feature. This feature alone adds 7hp alone.

2. Stronger/lighter intake and exhaust valves not to mention better springs for increased lift. Valves have greater flow characteristics than previous designs.

3. Intake and exhaust VTEC (my fav)

4. Increased water jacket coolant capacity for improved engine cooling. All 3.7's and only newer j35's 09 and up have this. The j35a8 also had this same feature.

HickamHatch

How long did it take you to write up those several pages of wiring schematics?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I'd say between 5-7 hours total...if not more.

MyKL

What is the target HP?
How much HP do you plan to get?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

All of it.

HickamHatch

im guessing target is as much as possible before it blows up
and he plans to get as much as possible before it blows up

brad2274

have fun with that wiring lol i did the same thing when i combined my accord dash harness with an acura tl harness so i could run the cls dash, gauges, and hvac controls. although i ran into a problem since the accord has fewer modes than any cl/tl/tls so now not everything works and i only have blower speed, hot or cold(no fine tuning), defrost, and recirc, but thats more than you need here in florida :gheylaugh:
with that egr display where does your hazard switch go now?

btw i have the v6 accord digital hvac display and many other dash bits for sale if interested

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I'll be running whatever I can safely tune to. Now that I have both EGT and widebands (one per bank), I should be able to know pretty much exactly where I need to go on tuning. I'll be running around 12-15lbs once engine is fully broke in. Should have harness complete by the end of next week so I can get this show on the road again.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Full VTEC
I can has Full VTEC too...

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Here comes Eric to steal the spotlight.

It's just you and me bud!

*** UPDATE***

I now have all sub-harnesses made up in there appropriate lengths and I've soldered in some universal connectors from a local electronics store into all components such as cluster, immobilizer, and all ECM sub-harnesses. This makes it easier to service the harness in sections rather than one large wiring harness that have continuous circuits from say the ECM out to the fuel pump module in the trunk of the car. It's double the work on everything but I hated not being able to add circuits very easily in the last setup if I wanted to add a feature into the car. This way allows me to simply insert a terminal into the appropriate connector and another into its destination point...that's pretty much it other than wiring from the component itself back into the connector. That's the beauty of using the multiple conduit cable that allows me to carry a few extra strands of circuitry just in case of future mods.

I've really went out of my way this time around in ensuring that the cleanliness is tip top. Not only in the engine compartment, but also the interior itself. I'm beginning to realize that this car will probably be around a while and if I'm going to build it into something glorious, I better not short change myself anywhere. None of this was planned on the car, it just kind of rolled out from a wild decision on swapping the old j35a8 into it and blossomed from there.

I've been accumulating some very cool parts for other parts of the car and can't wait to move on from the engine/trans and finally get some better handling as well as braking into effect. Just all a matter of time. I can tell you one thing, this car will be one of the most reliable boosted swaps around. With the immense amount of detail and work I've done to her, I'm sure she will bring me many days of appreciation.

Until then, I'll keep at it!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Rob you doing some great work here bud

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Who could possibly steal the spotlight from Mr Excessive Infatuation?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Alrighty everyone, have a few updates for you guys.

First of all, its been very tough here lately to dedicate any decent amount of time to my car while at the shop. It's been so busy I have only had time while at the house each night to work on my harness. But at least I've been staying pretty damn consistent at that. I finished the last portion of the harness (ECM connectors D and E) a few nights ago and now I just have to finish laying it in the car and solder in a few connectors...maybe 1-2 hours of work at most.

Aside from completing the engine harness, I also have to wire in an added relay block for the powertrain relays as well as a fuse block to protect all circuits provided by those relays. The fuse block will also provide protection on things such as the EGT monitor, meth/water injection system, dedicated power supply for the small Hondata box, a few accessory switches or master controls for additional things that will eventually be added, and a power supply for a dedicated continuous duty relay (a large heavy duty relay that resembles a starter solenoid from a Ford) that will be the primary means of applying power to just about every single aftermarket or added component thats in the Accord.

As you can see by the next few pictures, the fuse and relay block are oem VW pieces. I'm using these because anyone that knows cars knows that VW (or Germans in general) makes some of the highest quality electrical components period!

Here's a few pictures of the mock up of everything. First is the fuse block that was installed to the far left of where the glove compartment would normally set. Completely out of the way and unseen.


Another pic showing the placement of the fuse block. Sort of looks like it belongs there if you ask me.


And the relay block. It just so happened that the two mounting holes on the side matched perfectly with the bolt holes on the center dash supports. You can see five relay sockets of which will be used for the engine electronics. The last two relay sockets will require some repining but other than that...perfect!


Here's a few more pics that were taken to better illustrate the positioning of the relay and fuse block. Also, the pictures show the extent of what's being done to the wiring system itself and how in depth its all getting. If you look to the right of the center console, you'll notice the black harness with blue masking tape. This is the ECM harness (or part of it) thats just laying in there to confirm the length of each sub-harness is correct before final prep is done to make the harness look like a factory piece. I've learned to ALWAYS add at least another foot of wiring when making custom harnesses for more than obvious reasons.


Same as above but just a shot of the entire dash area. To some of you, this may look overwhelming but this sort of stuff makes me LOVE my job. Its challenging and strangely...fun too.


This is something I did tonight. The inlet for the turbo cold side was not in the most ideal place in regards to heat induction. Also, I've been wanting to do a full on hot/cold side separation for the turbo itself since I had them hot side shield made. Not only would the cold side have been radiated from the hot side shielding, but it would have also been prone to pulling in air several hundred degrees in temperature by the surrounding turbo manifold itself. So I grabbed an old Mercedes heat shield and some tin snips and made this enclosure for the cold side and filter. Although its complete, I still need to rivet the shield together into one large, removable piece. This is what it looked like prior to shielding. Notice the manifold collector nearby as well.


And the product. I also plan on routing a supply of air via 4" PVC to the small hole you can somewhat see in the top pic where the wire loom is coming through at. Of course the hole itself will be enlarged as well. Everything else is sealed up pretty good but the side facing the drivers fenderwell. This should aid quite a bit in turbo heat soak.


The shield from another angle:


Thanks for looking!

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Marcelechka

mMMm, German engineering!

1foxbody

Looking good Robert! I have a little sneak peak for you check my thread lol.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You forget Matt's making two of those intakes? One for you and one for MEEEEEE!

As for the headers, I don't think there's a more glorious sight to behold Greg. Can't wait to see the car in motion with that combination of parts.

Btw, what's with the LS manifold and DBW TB? I thought you were cable actuated. If you plan on using that DBW, I can give you some advice on what you will need to make it work.

Lookin' great man!

Marcelechka

Motion to update your user title Electrical & J Series Expert; got my vote!

1foxbody

Yepp that's yours in the pictures I knew you would catch that haha. I can't wait for it to be back up and running also.

As for that picture the intake manifold and throttle body is for my tbss. I'm slowly modding that also. I'm actually going to be boosting that too! I was just really trying to show the fuel pump and regulator next to it for the cl lol.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Motion filed and scheduled for court hearing your honor.

I think its funny how a many of us here with the big power builds are all down atm. Thats not to say that theres still some of you guys out there ringing out their motors waiting to be struck with the same bug.....inevitably rendering their vehicle useless until completion of the build. hahahahahahahahaha

SPEAKING OF BUILD COMPLETION

***UPDATE***

I know Ive made a few posts already mentioning how close I am to finishing the harness of this car but Ive become obsessed with making the damn thing perfect and without flaw. Ive realized that if I dont complete this chapter of the build soon, I will be hindered badly by the busy season up at the shop. Ive been working on the harness a few hours each night usually 4-5 days per week. I went today and picked a few more materials (namely connectors) to wrap things up.

Pics will be posted here soon so keep your eyes peeled people.