HickamHatch

still waiting for installation pics

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Sorry dude, those are going on the next motor. I'm focusing on getting the car going in the meantime.

And here's where I'm at so far. As I mentioned last update, I've decided on moving forward with the 2008 TL Type S dash conversion and that includes all factory modules and wiring harnesses to go with it. Picked up a nice black dash today for $350 with radio. The dash has the passenger side airbag blown but that's cool because I needed a creative place to put my gauge pod anyway.

Wife and I went to work on pulling the dash out as soon as the shop closed at 2:00pm today and had everything out and prepped for the install of the new dash by 3:30.....that was mostly due to the wife. She's a badass.

Its late so I'll just post up pics up for now.

noonewins

Hi everyone, first post ever but long time lurker. I have an 01 Type S, 142k on it and was considering some mods. Anywhoooo...

I have a question for ya, are there any specs on those billet cams? I went to their website and they offer 3 different grinds, but no specs. anyone know? also, if you look at the pics, the cams are using the vtec lobe only, how are you going to do your rockers?

nice build you have going there!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

fsttyms1

Nice, does it actually fit and bolt up?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

After cutting/modifying the HVAC plenum and the DBW module & mounting bracket, it allowed the dash to slide nearly to the windshield. Though the mounting holes are different in their positions, it still sits flush against the Accords mounting plate and will easily corrected by drilling/tapping new holes in accordance to the TLS dash bolt patterns. The right side will require me welding a small plate (3"x3") onto the dash's metal tubing in order to give mounting hole alignment but that too is nothing dramatic.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

noonewins

So, does anyone know? Thanks!

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Email or call them. No one here works there.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Wasn't really sure who "they" were in your post but I'll assume you meant either Bisimoto or TB since they are the most popular ones out there that offer multiple profile cams. When I said that I will be running billets, I myself was referring to Crower. And because the cams are billet, YOU decide what the lift and profile will be...not the company. IMO, stock shelf performance cams have their small place in the automotive performance realm but in an actual specifically purposed engine build, the cams must be perfectly matched to that purpose. Otherwise, it's like hiring any random person off the street and expecting that person to be a skilled electrician. It's not impossible he/she will be just that, however, chances are that persons workmanship will not be what you were hoping for.

noonewins

^ i should have said tb's. I didnt know bisi was making billet cams, so i could see the confusion. So, you call crower and tell them a grind? Seems like a time intensive endeavor. On tb motor website, they are offering three different grinds. I was just looking to see what they offered or if anyone knows. They dont answer emails.

CM6

Gawd this build is bada$$!!! I wish I could have a turbo project like you have here!! Nice work and good luck!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

A small update here for everyone...

So far, I've got most of the harnesses plugged in and ready for a test fire. I was going to run the TLS under hood fuse block into the Accords engine compartment but given the very limited space, I've decided on keeping it inside the car instead. The harness between the TLS interior fuse block and the TLS under hood fuse block is 3ft in length at best. This gave me just enough to place it beneath the drivers seat and mount it to the floor on its side. I was careful in its placement and mounting position due to the metal brackets on the drivers seat as well as the potential interference the seat may cause during horizontal seat adjustments. After finding a comfortable mounting spot, I ran a 4g cable from the battery positive in the trunk to the fuse block and installed a 80A Maxi fuse holder at the battery to protect the circuit. As of now, the next step is to mount the TLS steering column for test purposes, connect the TLS dash harness to the column, and see what results I get. So basically the battery provides power to the under hood fuse block. This feeds the interior fuse block which then feeds the ignition switch and of course this will feed back to the fuse block for all ignition circuits. It's all pretty simple and basic and the best part is it's all TLS factory component so I won't have to worry about converting much. I will have to adapt the Accords lighting system into the TLS interior fuse block but that's nothing. Thankfully the TLS keeps most of the body electronics inside the cab so 90% of the modules are located inside....the other 10% (ABS/traction control) I won't be using on the Accord.

TylerT

iTrader: (1)

I still come to the 2G CL side to check this thread out - very impressive updates and work going into this car.

Keep it up!

037

still waiting on the butt dyno...u want to send it back so I can check out my new car?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Thanks man, I appreciate that. I know most builds on this side of the forum have either vanished into thin air or have become dormant but one thing that I have promised myself after putting in all this effort is FINISHING the build. Its tough at times to maintain that focus with my new business and all but as you can see, I'm "all in" on this car and can't wait to drive it again.

So, the update is as follows:

We recently decided by vote to take Saturdays off at the shop and so its M-F now which gives me an extra day to churn out some more work on this thing. Last Friday, I drove up to the shop at around 9:00pm (no joke) and stayed until nearly 1:00am but essentially got NOTHING done because of a communication issue and trying to get it diagnosed. Ahhhhh!!!!

This of course led into Sunday morning when I returned again at 8:00am. This time, I figured out that my F-CAN (as well as all other communication bus's) bus for the ECM and immobilizer unit were both being shut down due to the instrument cluster malfunctioning. The bad cluster was basically "clogging" the network so to speak and thankfully I had another cluster from an 04 TL that I had saved from a repair a few years back and once the cluster was plugged in...everything came online.

Since then, I haven't done anything further to the car itself although Monday and Tuesday I've been doing some harness work at the house after work. Nothing too extreme but I'm splicing/soldering all of the HVAC door actuators connectors onto the TLS HVAC sub harness so that I can keep the factory Accord air box assembly and actuators in place while having the TLS HVAC module operational. Because the Accord only has single temperature (the TLS has dual climate control for pass and driver side) control, I'll be leaving the passenger blend door actuator connector disconnected. Other than this, the Accord will have functional heating and air while being controlled by the TLS dash. I REALLY didn't want to have to swap the air box out and this was a pretty simple solution so I'm happy.

I've also been eliminating all unnecessary wiring from the harness that goes between the under dash and under hood fuse blocks. There's another harness that tees off from that large harness into the TLS dash harness for power distribution as well as vehicle body functions such as lighting, horn, locks, windows, etc that will be integrated into the factory Accord wiring. So again, the TLS dash switches will control all of the interior and exterior functions on the Accord. I was originally going to do Navi but due to the excessive amounts of time in research, labor and misc parts, I've decided on the base model setup for now. May change my mind again further down the road...we'll see.

Started the car on Sunday as well. Forgot to mention that.

Last but not least, this showed up today at the shop:

ahxChun

iTrader: (1)

can't wait to see the magic of the j25 and the doors it open up.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Oh look, a tiny J.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

More like blowing the doors off! Haha

Seriously though, I'm proud to say I will be the first to do it. I am putting a lot of serious thinking into it and may enlarge the bore a bit more. I'd like to "over square" the engine if possible so it will make the most of that tinsy little stroke it has.

Went out today and spent over $400 at a local salvage yard that I original purchased the TLS dash at and picked up more of that same car. Didn't take any pics but here's a list of what I grabbed:

- Both aluminum center dash/console trim pieces

- glove compartment mounting box

- glove compartment

- drivers info center (goes above radio) that included both HVAC control heads

- center vent w/clock & hazard switch

- HVAC control module

- HVAC sub-harness (won't be used as I've already purchased and converted another)

- drivers lower dash cover (aka knee bolster)

I priced all of these online a few nights back and even used they all added up it over $875! Deal of the century right there!

As I mentioned in the list, I was waiting to finish the HVAC sub harness conversion which was done last night and got it installed today. Everything matched perfectly. Once that was installed along with the air box mounted HVAC control module, I proceeded to passenger side dash modifications so it could be mounted. My problem is as follows: the Accord and the TLS have very similar pass. side mounting bracket provisions which is basically a flat bracket that "cups" the center steel tube behind the dash and this brackets has two mounting holes. Welded to the side wall below the A-pillar on the Accord is another bracket with two threaded holes that the dash brackets bolts to. The angle on the TLS dash is much more horizontally positioned than the Accords almost vertical mount...not to mention the center to center is about 2" wider between the two mounting holes. Because the side wall mounted bracket is much more difficult to access for modifications/welding (not to mention a fire hazard during welding), I've opted to cut off the existing dash bracket and do some simple bending of a 1/8" steel strip then weld that to the dash so that they meet perfectly.

After the passenger side is done, its a matter of drilling and tapping a few bolt holes into the drivers side of the TLS dash so that I can run the stock mounting bolts from the Accord dash back into it and secure it in place. Once that's been accomplished, its a matter of simple reassembly after that.

I took a trip to a local custom hydraulic hose and lines shop today and gave them some measurements of the upper and lower radiator hoses along with some BMRS hoses I bought off eBay of which were used/removed from a nascar team car. These hoses have the absolute highest kink free turning radius I've ever seen and due to the complexity of the Accords engine compartment, this is a must have. They should be finished by tomorrow sometime and of course will be installed hopefully if I have some time at the end of the day.

Finally, I was saving the best for last on today's update and wanted to show off the turbo I bought that will be used for the 2.8 I will be building. She's a big girl...

johndo18

sweet!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Dash is officially in people. Chopped, cut, modified and welded but she's in there!






As I mentioned earlier, the bolt patterns between the TLS and Accord dashes are different. The TLS dash is also about 1/8" narrower than the Accord dash and although it doesn't sound like much it made for a tedious complication in the install process. Instead of tapping and drilling new mount holes into the drivers side of the dash, I had to feel the gap using a 1/8" steel plate. Then, welded that plate to the the dash. Drilled tapped the Accords bolt pattern into the plate then simply bolted it back in place. For the passenger side, I cut the TLS mounting plate off and welded on a 5" strip of 1/8" steel at the appropriate angle of the Accords dash mount, drilled and tapped the strip and installed.

Here's my next obstacle in the dash conversion:



The top pic is the Accords steering joint that links the steering column to the steering rack. Its a splined shaft receptacle. The bottom pic is the TLS steering column which is also a splined shaft receptacle. Haven't went any further than identifying the issue but I've had bigger obstacles than this already.

01facepalm

Kudos to this build! Simply staggering

JarrettLauderdale

Nice to see that you've finally got the J25A in!

Since you're going to be pulling this to stuff it in the J37A block it would be interesting to see what the rod journal diameters are on this engine. So far I've found that the rod journals increase in size for every step up in stroke with the exception of the 3.2 to the 3.5. This is likely to offset the increased forces of more power and the physics of the longer crankshaft throw, but it would be interesting to see if the J25A rod had the same 56mm B.E. diameter of the J30A.

Corey_Straker

Patiently awaiting the completion of this thing.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Well, hopefully nobody has to wait any longer after this weekend. I'll be at the shop Saturday morning to (hopefully) drive the beast home for the first time in 8 1/2 months.

Finally got the coolant hoses (BMRS 'pro gold' crimped baby!) made and installed today as well as the metric-to-AN adapter fittings for my wastegates & BOV so I could actually start the engine for some heat cycles. All sounded well and was basically waiting on doing this before I wrapped the dash up. I have about 40-50 wires (lighting, power windows, cooling fans, etc...) that have to be spliced from the TLS dash to the Accord body harnesses.

I decided on using braided steel hose for all my vacuum hoses under the hood with AN fasteners of course. Really made a difference in looks and reliability.

I'll keep everyone posted on how things go. I'm starting to get anxious now.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Made a little progress yesterday. Tomorrow things should be wrapped up.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Forgot to post the pic of the new radiator hoses. As I've mentioned, they are BMRS pro line crimped style and are generally used in racing applications such as Nascar and Indy cars. Notice the AN line on the front bank wastegate. The use of braided steel lines with threaded fasteners will make me feel better about losing a wastegate line which can easily cause a blown motor due to over boost.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

So it's been a fun filled, learning experience this weekend. Finally got around to doing something that to my knowledge, nobody else has done publicly. I dismantled the previously purchased JDM J25A and took some photos of some interesting highlights then decided I'd share them with anyone interested.

The engine was 100% fully assembled all the way up to the starter and AC compressor and had almost 40k original miles on it. Some of you that actually read the posts I make here might have remembered that I've been mentioning such words as: "2.8", "monster", "build", blah blah blah in the same sentence. So the purpose of the j25...to harvest its crankshaft and build something along the lines as:


Alright, maybe not quite like this. At least not a motor with a dry sump oil system or a dual Borg Warner turbo setup. But something more of the HR28TT's core essence. Honda (or HPD rather) starts the build of this motor using the crankshaft from this:


Then, it's shoved in a production j35z engine from an 09+ Accord 3.5 and ran basically with bone stock internals. Other than the crank, only the cams and intake manifold are replaced with more appropriate/purpose matched components.


So, as I mentioned, I had took some pics during the dismantling of the 2.5. One of the most surprising and probably the biggest highlight was this:




Yep, domed pistons in this little beast. It is said that the CR of the motor runs 10.0:1 but TBH, I've read and seen many conflicting "facts" here and there. I won't say that its not possible to be only that amount because the bore is much smaller. However, the combustion chambers from the heads measured the bores width across which is 86mm. (Blurry pic sorry)


But as you can see, the chambers are still pretty much the same as today's 130 degree chamber shape. Excuse me, 131 degrees to be exact. Another funny thing about the heads were the intake runner port sizes. They (expectantly) are literally 1.55 inches (or 39.4mm) wide. To give some better perspective on how tiny that is, the intake port on the J35A8 Type S head is 1.92 inches (or 49mm) wide. Almost 25% narrower.




One of the last highlights was the rod journals sizes. The J25A has a 56mm journal. Again, for perspective, a J37A1 measures 60mm in size. I took a picture of both the 2.5 and the 3.7 rod main bearings to give a better idea of how that actually looks. To anyone that doesn't know, in a performance application, small diameter (aka: small journal) bearings are coveted in an engine due to less friction. There's less contact area between the bearing itself and the rods which obviously frees up horsepower. This can and does come at a premium of lowered life expectancy for the bearing itself. But when your primary focus is to make POWER, to hell with service life!

To explain what's obvious, 2.5 is on the left and 3.7 on the right.


The last few pics were just comparison shots for other purposes. The shots of the pistons does give you an understanding of just how small an 86mm bore really is. Oh, and another thing, if anyone thinks using the factory Honda J25A pistons instead of say the J35's to save weight, not so much. The J25A1 piston literally weighs maybe 3 full grams less than the much stronger 2014 RLX piston (11.5:1 forged aluminum) shown with the very peculiar dome shape. The J37A1 piston is even lighter than the J25A1 by 15-20 grams.






Mad scientist at work in the kitchen. Brewing up the next motor...yes, that's a J37A4 dual VTEC head from the new AWD TL 3.7 sitting on the table. Shhhhh.....

HickamHatch

What did you do with the black hoses?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

They had sat for nine months in a collapsed state and were pretty much useless afterwards. This new hose can make right radius turns and not even show signs of deformity. Good stuff.

HickamHatch

You should send me your ends then

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I don't have them. They were sent to the custom hose shop and never got them back.

HickamHatch

Should have told me you wanted custom hoses made. I can do it with those same crimp fittings. My friend has the machine...

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Will you just call or text me! Wasting precious 'post space' on my awesome build thread sucka...

HickamHatch

I would if you replied. Get a quicker response on here!

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Do those RLX pistons look like they could be used in a J35A8?

kingofdust

Cool man, looks interesting.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Purposely waited a long time to resound just to prove you wrong.

You could but I wouldn't. As mentioned, they are designed for direct injection (DI) which as you may know, works differently than runner injected (RI) setups. Because the DI setups are timed to spray fuel on (nearly) the compression stroke, the fuel has almost no dwell time in the cylinder before being combusted. This makes it critical to literally put half of the combustion chamber on top of the piston itself and do so in such a manner that it still has a complete burn. That means flame propagation must be controlled in a very aggressive manner and that's why you see the crazy dome on the piston...to 'force' the flame front in a specific direction and allow a stoic burn.

This would obviously create unwanted issues in a RI setup because that same piston induced turbulence would disrupt the flame front in a much negative manner and more than likely cause detonation. Its a shame because the piston carries a 11.5:1 CR and is made from an extremely dense alloy that can be felt very easily in comparison to the other stock aluminum pistons most other j-series have.

Tomorrow I'll be sending in the j25a rod to Crower for them to obtain specs from so a set of billet rods can be made. The same goes for a set of 89mm pistons based off of the rod so that everything lines up perfectly. Waiting on a friend to ship a j35a8 block to me so it can be sent out for sleeves and lastly the crankshaft sent for shot peening.

HickamHatch

you just proved yourself wrong since you replied on here before responding to my text

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Damn you Matt! If we're going to argue on my build thread, at least post update pics of your car while doing so!