Started on some in home porting
03-28-2013, 07:06 PM
#1321
Not happy with today.
quickest et was 8.6
only good things was a charged stang running race fuel and a pillar full of gauges got smoked.
Even a charged 500 stang was held off right till the line where he went right by me like nothing he ran 8.5 I ran 8.7.
He was either spinning or babying it or weather was crappy.
I don't know if it was the TB spacer or the cams but on the track the car seamed to have less power in the 2-4k range and 60ft were high 2.1's but 4k up seamed like it was pulling really hard.
I think I don't have enough compression to run them.
I'll be selling them to someone that plans on a high comp build.
Or They will be seeing ebay.
Also think I may have a tps issue because at closed it would vary a couple of numbers snapping the tb closed
It was running great before at .56, and closed today would vary .54-..60 that can't be good either
quickest et was 8.6
only good things was a charged stang running race fuel and a pillar full of gauges got smoked.
Even a charged 500 stang was held off right till the line where he went right by me like nothing he ran 8.5 I ran 8.7.
He was either spinning or babying it or weather was crappy.
I don't know if it was the TB spacer or the cams but on the track the car seamed to have less power in the 2-4k range and 60ft were high 2.1's but 4k up seamed like it was pulling really hard.
I think I don't have enough compression to run them.
I'll be selling them to someone that plans on a high comp build.
Or They will be seeing ebay.
Also think I may have a tps issue because at closed it would vary a couple of numbers snapping the tb closed
It was running great before at .56, and closed today would vary .54-..60 that can't be good either
Last edited by richardparker; 03-28-2013 at 07:18 PM.
04-03-2013, 04:49 PM
#1322
Today I re installed the tls cams,removed the throttle body spacer and adjusted my valves tighter than I normally do and the car has back the lowend torque.
before I was setting them to a loose .008 intake and .012 exhaust.
Now at a tight .008 intake and a tight .010 exhaust.
lash is way better than ever. Valve train noise must be 50% quieter than it's ever been before.
I would say my real setting must be .007 intake .009 exhaust. My feeler's just don't have those sizes.
I don't think it would be to good for the valves or seats to go any tighter.
I just wished I tryied the regrinds with the tighter lash and no throttle body spacer before I passed them on.
It's supposed to rain tomorrow here but,if it don't, you know where I'll be heading...... to do some rubber melting
before I was setting them to a loose .008 intake and .012 exhaust.
Now at a tight .008 intake and a tight .010 exhaust.
lash is way better than ever. Valve train noise must be 50% quieter than it's ever been before.
I would say my real setting must be .007 intake .009 exhaust. My feeler's just don't have those sizes.
I don't think it would be to good for the valves or seats to go any tighter.
I just wished I tryied the regrinds with the tighter lash and no throttle body spacer before I passed them on.
It's supposed to rain tomorrow here but,if it don't, you know where I'll be heading...... to do some rubber melting
04-06-2013, 12:06 PM
#1323
You want all the secrets.
Your not ready Danial son.
J/k dude.
You can have a auto glass shop do it. I would say go to one where they do high volume so the guys are experienced.
I went to Carolina auto glass. They had the plexi there for me to choose from and the guy was familer with what I wanted done so that was a plus.
He was also glad I came with the whole sunroof out. He said another guy had his done and did not take his out and it was a pain for him to get it done as quick as mine.
I was in and out in 45min.
Definitely worth it,just very time consuming install to make it look nice.
Your not ready Danial son.
J/k dude.
You can have a auto glass shop do it. I would say go to one where they do high volume so the guys are experienced.
I went to Carolina auto glass. They had the plexi there for me to choose from and the guy was familer with what I wanted done so that was a plus.
He was also glad I came with the whole sunroof out. He said another guy had his done and did not take his out and it was a pain for him to get it done as quick as mine.
I was in and out in 45min.
Definitely worth it,just very time consuming install to make it look nice.
04-06-2013, 07:51 PM
#1324
^ I just asked them to copy the glass over the phone and they said no problem.
Then when I got there I told them what I wanted then I talked directly to the worker. He taped a piece of card board to the outside is used a marker from the inside to make the shape,then he did his magic.
Maybe you should just make your template like I said and they will copy it.
My roof is done so It would be hard to get any measurements now.
And I had a problem with mine, the silicone I must have used shrunk because I had rain coming in.
I went over it again on a windy day and after I went all the way around resealing it.I started cleaning up the edge's on the paint and it was already setting up and now the edge does not look as nice as it did the first time.
After going over that I think I'm also going to do as much of the inside as I can too just in case.
Well today I decided to see what was going on with my tps sensor.
I used a new shaft key from my other throttle body and the tps was finally returning to my closed settings without being all over the place so I thought I may have had it fixed. And mind you this is after drilling and re tapping some new holes because the new key fit on the shaft in a different position and the lowest it would read was .90
So after going for a ride and a couple of try's getting it right the car would not shift out of 2nd and I tried adjusting it again and was getting shuddering off idle/light acceleration. With the multi meter I could not even see the skip.
But with the scanner I was able to see the dead spot right off of idle.
It would show 9.8 and I could push the pedal down a little and it would not change then it would jump to 13-15 range and it would go.
Even when it was working I was feeling it for awhile every once in awhile.
New sensor is on the way,maybe now the car will be more consistent.
Then when I got there I told them what I wanted then I talked directly to the worker. He taped a piece of card board to the outside is used a marker from the inside to make the shape,then he did his magic.
Maybe you should just make your template like I said and they will copy it.
My roof is done so It would be hard to get any measurements now.
And I had a problem with mine, the silicone I must have used shrunk because I had rain coming in.
I went over it again on a windy day and after I went all the way around resealing it.I started cleaning up the edge's on the paint and it was already setting up and now the edge does not look as nice as it did the first time.
After going over that I think I'm also going to do as much of the inside as I can too just in case.
Well today I decided to see what was going on with my tps sensor.
I used a new shaft key from my other throttle body and the tps was finally returning to my closed settings without being all over the place so I thought I may have had it fixed. And mind you this is after drilling and re tapping some new holes because the new key fit on the shaft in a different position and the lowest it would read was .90
So after going for a ride and a couple of try's getting it right the car would not shift out of 2nd and I tried adjusting it again and was getting shuddering off idle/light acceleration. With the multi meter I could not even see the skip.
But with the scanner I was able to see the dead spot right off of idle.
It would show 9.8 and I could push the pedal down a little and it would not change then it would jump to 13-15 range and it would go.
Even when it was working I was feeling it for awhile every once in awhile.
New sensor is on the way,maybe now the car will be more consistent.
The following 2 users liked this post by rush:
civicdrivr (04-10-2013),
Sonnick (04-10-2013)
04-10-2013, 11:17 AM
#1328
Not sure, I would like to at least hit it with some sort of boost I do know that.
I have another motor too and enough gaskets to almost do a rebuild so possibly I will build another more suited to go fast or scater trannys.
One day I'm sure I'm running out of mods that I still want to do and this tranny is still doing fine.
I thought I may have had a problem but I remember when I was cleaning the trans sensors I started the car and one was not screwed down and maybe not even in and trans fluid was pouring every where.
Ever since I did a drain refill the trans did not lose any fluid since.
When this one dies I'll consider it.
Hand brake in.
I have another motor too and enough gaskets to almost do a rebuild so possibly I will build another more suited to go fast or scater trannys.
One day I'm sure I'm running out of mods that I still want to do and this tranny is still doing fine.
I thought I may have had a problem but I remember when I was cleaning the trans sensors I started the car and one was not screwed down and maybe not even in and trans fluid was pouring every where.
Ever since I did a drain refill the trans did not lose any fluid since.
When this one dies I'll consider it.
Hand brake in.
04-18-2013, 10:30 AM
#1331
Me likey freebee's.
Car has just been sitting collecting pollen waiting on a dam tps.
Ordered one from amazon a while back and up'd it to 2 day shipping so I could get it. It did not show up so I checked the shipping and it said it would not ship for 1-2 months. wtf really,cancelled that shit.
I just got the tracking for the next one yesterday so I got one on the way.
Kinda lost interest till it comes. The car drives like crap just off of idle studdering and jerking. I can hit the gas and it will roast the tires right up. Drivability sucks and makes me not even want to drive it.
I'm also waiting on parts for a gm 3.4 i'm messing with.
I got the heads apart sitting on my counter and I'm itching to port them but it's not something I'm keeping and my family keeps telling me I'm crazy.
They are just sitting there and I have nothing to play with my tools.
Good thing I don't work for GM I would shoot myself.
I got 7.5 hrs in to get the heads off and disassembled.
Acura is far easyier to work on,7.5hrs I could just about rebuild the whole engine.
I did pick up a job for a 07 accord app sensor replacement but parts are not here yet either.
I go a little crazy with nothing to fix.
Car has just been sitting collecting pollen waiting on a dam tps.
Ordered one from amazon a while back and up'd it to 2 day shipping so I could get it. It did not show up so I checked the shipping and it said it would not ship for 1-2 months. wtf really,cancelled that shit.
I just got the tracking for the next one yesterday so I got one on the way.
Kinda lost interest till it comes. The car drives like crap just off of idle studdering and jerking. I can hit the gas and it will roast the tires right up. Drivability sucks and makes me not even want to drive it.
I'm also waiting on parts for a gm 3.4 i'm messing with.
I got the heads apart sitting on my counter and I'm itching to port them but it's not something I'm keeping and my family keeps telling me I'm crazy.
They are just sitting there and I have nothing to play with my tools.
Good thing I don't work for GM I would shoot myself.
I got 7.5 hrs in to get the heads off and disassembled.
Acura is far easyier to work on,7.5hrs I could just about rebuild the whole engine.
I did pick up a job for a 07 accord app sensor replacement but parts are not here yet either.
I go a little crazy with nothing to fix.
04-18-2013, 06:35 PM
#1332
Just figured I'd throw this out there:
One day as I was washing my car, I decided I'd spray the engine off as it had been a while. I generally only do this on occasion and really haven't experienced any issues from doing so as I know what NOT to spray directly. This particular day everything went well...drove the car back to the shop and even opened the good so it could dry out faster. On the ride home I went to pass this Corvette and my car did this embarrassing stutter and began backfiring so I pulled over (humiliated) and turned the car off and seemed ok from then on. The next morning same stuff except this time it wouldn't shift at all and if it did it was a very "ugly" shift. Ended up taking my wife's car to work. Brought my scanner home from work and diagnosed it from about 7pm until 2am that morning only to find out water had seeped past the paper gasket on the TPS sensor and was distorting the potentiometer signal within.
What's funny (sort of) is datastream never showed anything weird in sensor graduation (aka sweep) but I started noticing that it read different min and max voltages and then I plugged in a spare TPS I had and that's how I realized the issue. Broke the TPS after replacing only to find a very light condensation on the board inside. Now, they are all sealed with silicone.
One day as I was washing my car, I decided I'd spray the engine off as it had been a while. I generally only do this on occasion and really haven't experienced any issues from doing so as I know what NOT to spray directly. This particular day everything went well...drove the car back to the shop and even opened the good so it could dry out faster. On the ride home I went to pass this Corvette and my car did this embarrassing stutter and began backfiring so I pulled over (humiliated) and turned the car off and seemed ok from then on. The next morning same stuff except this time it wouldn't shift at all and if it did it was a very "ugly" shift. Ended up taking my wife's car to work. Brought my scanner home from work and diagnosed it from about 7pm until 2am that morning only to find out water had seeped past the paper gasket on the TPS sensor and was distorting the potentiometer signal within.
What's funny (sort of) is datastream never showed anything weird in sensor graduation (aka sweep) but I started noticing that it read different min and max voltages and then I plugged in a spare TPS I had and that's how I realized the issue. Broke the TPS after replacing only to find a very light condensation on the board inside. Now, they are all sealed with silicone.
04-19-2013, 02:30 PM
#1334
^ Still messing with it.
Ok fella's, I need some direction.
Today I replaced the tps sensor and wasted 100 it does the same thing.
I checked for slack in the cable,throttle wheel,and throttle blade. Everything moves on the money,no sticking anywhere.
TPS signal is still jumping right off of throttle.
Is their any relays or wires that could be checked?
I'm not really the wiring guy.
I guess my next step will be to changing out the ecu and ignition to my clp one to see if the ecu is the problem - if no one has any idea's to fix my problem.
My car has to get inspected this month and my guy is across town and I don't want to drive the car their like this.
Ok fella's, I need some direction.
Today I replaced the tps sensor and wasted 100 it does the same thing.
I checked for slack in the cable,throttle wheel,and throttle blade. Everything moves on the money,no sticking anywhere.
TPS signal is still jumping right off of throttle.
Is their any relays or wires that could be checked?
I'm not really the wiring guy.
I guess my next step will be to changing out the ecu and ignition to my clp one to see if the ecu is the problem - if no one has any idea's to fix my problem.
My car has to get inspected this month and my guy is across town and I don't want to drive the car their like this.
04-19-2013, 04:29 PM
#1336
After spending time in the rain I figured out the Throttle body shaft key was fitting loose into the TPS sensor.
Folded some paper over the key and pushed the sensor on, now their is no studdering or skiping.
Dam custom throttle body and tps
Now I can dry out in happiness.
Last edited by richardparker; 04-19-2013 at 04:32 PM.
04-21-2013, 03:19 PM
#1337
I got to the track today for a couple runs.
Running 8.5's again with highest traps of 87.8 mph.
60ft's are shitty though. 2.2-2.1's.
I need wider or stickier tires. I can't hook it up no matter how much I baby the car off the line.
Still running good running 8.5's but their is much quicker times to be had.
Their was a gt mustang with better tires than me that had to use 2 stages of nitrous to go by me.One stage I was winning his 2nd stage just barely went by me and he only went 90mph.
He must have been scratching his head.
Running 8.5's again with highest traps of 87.8 mph.
60ft's are shitty though. 2.2-2.1's.
I need wider or stickier tires. I can't hook it up no matter how much I baby the car off the line.
Still running good running 8.5's but their is much quicker times to be had.
Their was a gt mustang with better tires than me that had to use 2 stages of nitrous to go by me.One stage I was winning his 2nd stage just barely went by me and he only went 90mph.
He must have been scratching his head.
04-21-2013, 04:30 PM
#1338
I guess I should've been a little faster today since a went with a half tank of gas and usually go with a 1/4 tank.
gas weighs 7.5lbs per gallon.
How many gallons would be in a 1/4 ?
Or how many gallons in a full tank ?
EDIT: I got it 4.3 and 17.2.
so I guess I was 32.25lbs heavier than usual.
gas weighs 7.5lbs per gallon.
How many gallons would be in a 1/4 ?
Or how many gallons in a full tank ?
EDIT: I got it 4.3 and 17.2.
so I guess I was 32.25lbs heavier than usual.
Last edited by richardparker; 04-21-2013 at 04:38 PM.
04-22-2013, 09:56 AM
#1340
Am I having a cluster issue or a problem because of my evap delete ?
I have been running out of gas at a 1/4 of a tank and don't see the gas light come on.
Before I used to be able to run with the light on for some time with no worry about running out of gas and now it running out just above a 1/4 tank.
So far
(1) I put a new longer and deeper filter sock to get it to reach farther down.
(2) Changed the rubber tube between the fuel pump and the assembly unit.
(3) Tested the resistence of the sender and got 106.4 Empty and 4.7 Full wich is in spec
and their is no binding of the float.
Not sure when it started but its been that way for a little bit.
Only thing I can think of is that it has something to do with either the evap stuff I removed or the gauges themself are bad.
Anyone.
I will post a pic of the fuel level in the bowl with hopes someone can tell me how much fuel it looks like.
going to take it now.
I have been running out of gas at a 1/4 of a tank and don't see the gas light come on.
Before I used to be able to run with the light on for some time with no worry about running out of gas and now it running out just above a 1/4 tank.
So far
(1) I put a new longer and deeper filter sock to get it to reach farther down.
(2) Changed the rubber tube between the fuel pump and the assembly unit.
(3) Tested the resistence of the sender and got 106.4 Empty and 4.7 Full wich is in spec
and their is no binding of the float.
Not sure when it started but its been that way for a little bit.
Only thing I can think of is that it has something to do with either the evap stuff I removed or the gauges themself are bad.
Anyone.
I will post a pic of the fuel level in the bowl with hopes someone can tell me how much fuel it looks like.
going to take it now.
[/IMG]
04-23-2013, 12:33 PM
#1343
2 more lbs out today.
Tar deadener from the top of the dash and the material deadener from the backside of the dash.
Also got a type s cluster on the way to see if it helps my gas gauge thing.
If not I guess I'll be chasing wires.
I will finally be able to see my real redline for once that's a plus.
Tar deadener from the top of the dash and the material deadener from the backside of the dash.
Also got a type s cluster on the way to see if it helps my gas gauge thing.
If not I guess I'll be chasing wires.
I will finally be able to see my real redline for once that's a plus.
Last edited by richardparker; 04-23-2013 at 12:37 PM.
04-23-2013, 01:05 PM
#1344
All motor
88mph through the 1/8th is nuts. That still boggles me. Still on the stock cams? What CR are you running? You have ported heads too? I forget 
04-23-2013, 01:16 PM
#1345
tls cams, supertech ti seat/retainer spring kit, heads are fully done. No idea of CR.
It does boogie pretty good,just can't get it to hook at all.
I have to baby it so much it's killing my 60ft
Tires look fine,they just are not wide enough or sticky enough.
It does boogie pretty good,just can't get it to hook at all.
I have to baby it so much it's killing my 60ft
Tires look fine,they just are not wide enough or sticky enough.
04-23-2013, 01:52 PM
#1346
All motor
^ If you were on slicks, with that MPH, you could potentially run 8 flat in the 1/8th which would put you in 12.3x range.
04-24-2013, 09:01 AM
#1347
That would be great.
I just went to get some gas and found my hand brake was up a couple clicks.I don't know how much drag was being caused but,I'm sure it did not help my times 1st to 2nd feels better I know that, whether it's from the handbrake or from my last 12lb loss IDK,possibly both.
Next will be to fix my rear Y pipe and get a bigger one in there as a friend told me it will help my topend and I could possibly pickup 1-2mph.
I have 2.5 exhaust till the rear Y where it's stock sized at 1 7/8 with 2.25 pipes off the Y.
My friend said since my exhaust is wide open I might not notice much street driving but WOT I should see some gains.
True or false?
I just went to get some gas and found my hand brake was up a couple clicks.I don't know how much drag was being caused but,I'm sure it did not help my times
1st to 2nd feels better I know that, whether it's from the handbrake or from my last 12lb loss IDK,possibly both.Next will be to fix my rear Y pipe and get a bigger one in there as a friend told me it will help my topend and I could possibly pickup 1-2mph.
I have 2.5 exhaust till the rear Y where it's stock sized at 1 7/8 with 2.25 pipes off the Y.
My friend said since my exhaust is wide open I might not notice much street driving but WOT I should see some gains.
True or false?
Last edited by richardparker; 04-24-2013 at 09:03 AM.
04-27-2013, 12:13 PM
#1348
I guess I'm going to find out if the Y is holding back some power.
Just got back from setting appointment to finish 2.5 off.
I was kinda nervous because one guy was like what do you have in that thing with eye's like he want's to drive my car.
And a different guy was saying I heard your cars fast.
but the owner said come tuesday so he would do the work so I kinda feel a little better.
If the owners not there I will not leave the car don't need the civic drivers getting their hands on my junk.
Their was 2 civic's out front.
Just got back from setting appointment to finish 2.5 off.
I was kinda nervous because one guy was like what do you have in that thing with eye's like he want's to drive my car.
And a different guy was saying I heard your cars fast.
but the owner said come tuesday so he would do the work so I kinda feel a little better.
If the owners not there I will not leave the car don't need the civic drivers getting their hands on my junk.
Their was 2 civic's out front.
04-28-2013, 11:46 AM
#1349
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Why not run 3"? I noticed a huge difference going from 2.5 to 3.
04-28-2013, 02:36 PM
#1350
You say go 3" but,I have no other parts as of right now.
No 3" res,mufflers or tips.
So should I go 3" from my resonator back ?
3" from cat back ?
Almost thinking I should do a single 3" from cat all the way back and lose the weight from the resonator,tips and one pipe to make up some of the weight added from the 3" pipe.
Right now the cars loud but, I'm looking for some more power so sound looses if power is to be had.
How should I go after the exhaust without adding extra pieces and only adding piping?
No 3" res,mufflers or tips.
So should I go 3" from my resonator back ?
3" from cat back ?
Almost thinking I should do a single 3" from cat all the way back and lose the weight from the resonator,tips and one pipe to make up some of the weight added from the 3" pipe.
Right now the cars loud but, I'm looking for some more power so sound looses if power is to be had.
How should I go after the exhaust without adding extra pieces and only adding piping?
Last edited by richardparker; 04-28-2013 at 02:39 PM.
04-28-2013, 02:40 PM
#1351
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
3" from the j-pipe back.
But if youre not trying to buy more stuff, stick with what you've got.
But if youre not trying to buy more stuff, stick with what you've got.
04-28-2013, 05:54 PM
#1352
I'd say you may just might be borderline max power on the 2.5" Rich. I have a buddy who claims 350hp or more is when you should start running 3". He's been doing exhaust for nearly 25 years. I agree with your friend, you will sacrifice torque in exchange for horsepower by making that jump. And as they say: "it's torque that wins races". What to do... 
04-29-2013, 08:33 AM
#1353
All motor
3" all day. Not only will you make more power, but it should be a bit of weight reduction as well. Or, you could leave your exhaust as is and just get a 3" cutout right after the Jpipe merge. This may be cheaper.
But yea, 3" on our cars is the way to go, especially on a stroked motor. You are getting so much air in (huge TB/ported manifold/ported heads, etc) but are being choked a bit by the 2.5" exhaust IMO. If you do go with a 3" exhaust, you will need a 3" collector on the Jpipe to take full advantage. You could potentially flirt with 90mph traps in the 1/8th with a 3" exhaust on your setup....
Do you have a wideband? What is your AFR? What injectors do you have? I'd imagine they are not stock....you are in need of a tune my friend. With your mod list, a tune would really bring the car together.
But yea, 3" on our cars is the way to go, especially on a stroked motor. You are getting so much air in (huge TB/ported manifold/ported heads, etc) but are being choked a bit by the 2.5" exhaust IMO. If you do go with a 3" exhaust, you will need a 3" collector on the Jpipe to take full advantage. You could potentially flirt with 90mph traps in the 1/8th with a 3" exhaust on your setup....
Do you have a wideband? What is your AFR? What injectors do you have? I'd imagine they are not stock....you are in need of a tune my friend. With your mod list, a tune would really bring the car together.
Last edited by Sonnick; 04-29-2013 at 08:38 AM.
04-29-2013, 10:37 AM
#1354
3" all day. Not only will you make more power, but it should be a bit of weight reduction as well. Or, you could leave your exhaust as is and just get a 3" cutout right after the Jpipe merge. This may be cheaper.
But yea, 3" on our cars is the way to go, especially on a stroked motor. You are getting so much air in (huge TB/ported manifold/ported heads, etc) but are being choked a bit by the 2.5" exhaust IMO. If you do go with a 3" exhaust, you will need a 3" collector on the Jpipe to take full advantage. You could potentially flirt with 90mph traps in the 1/8th with a 3" exhaust on your setup....
Do you have a wideband? What is your AFR? What injectors do you have? I'd imagine they are not stock....you are in need of a tune my friend. With your mod list, a tune would really bring the car together.
But yea, 3" on our cars is the way to go, especially on a stroked motor. You are getting so much air in (huge TB/ported manifold/ported heads, etc) but are being choked a bit by the 2.5" exhaust IMO. If you do go with a 3" exhaust, you will need a 3" collector on the Jpipe to take full advantage. You could potentially flirt with 90mph traps in the 1/8th with a 3" exhaust on your setup....
Do you have a wideband? What is your AFR? What injectors do you have? I'd imagine they are not stock....you are in need of a tune my friend. With your mod list, a tune would really bring the car together.
That would be my cheapest option.
Stock injectors,afr is good at idle,wot goes 13.5-13.1-12.8.
I have fpr at 66 psi to get that afr wot.
Definitly needs a tune .I've been scared off by people saying piggy backs are a waste of money and don't want to dump thousands.
The gains I got from going from the base ecu to type s ecu was great and I know it could use a tune and have some more great gains.
04-29-2013, 01:38 PM
#1355
All motor
Wow, stock injectors....Are they at like 1000% duty cycle? Lol. I'm not sure how it all works TBH, but I'd imagine the injector is maxed out at "x" regardless of pressure?
3" off the XLR8 cat? No. That would defeat the purpose because the cat is not 3". For the best gains, you would want to mod your collector to 3" (or get a new one). Then if you wanted to do a cut out from that, that would work. Just throwing a 3" pipe on the cat would not do a thing.
3" off the XLR8 cat? No. That would defeat the purpose because the cat is not 3". For the best gains, you would want to mod your collector to 3" (or get a new one). Then if you wanted to do a cut out from that, that would work. Just throwing a 3" pipe on the cat would not do a thing.
04-29-2013, 05:01 PM
#1356
I find it confusing that it would not do anything since there is what only another foot of pipe differnce between the header and the end of the cat.
I will be able to get rid of a resonator,a 4lb guess,tips 2lbs each and one pipe off the Y that must be 1-2lbs and I would be getting rid of 1 7/8 pipe in the back.
Not saying I don't believe you but, I find it hard to believe I would not see any gains from flow or weight loss.
Theirs only 1 extra foot of pipe
I will be able to get rid of a resonator,a 4lb guess,tips 2lbs each and one pipe off the Y that must be 1-2lbs and I would be getting rid of 1 7/8 pipe in the back.
Not saying I don't believe you but, I find it hard to believe I would not see any gains from flow or weight loss.
Theirs only 1 extra foot of pipe
04-29-2013, 05:40 PM
#1357
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
What's he is trying to say is the xlr8 cat is still bottlenecking the exhaust system. You should modify the end of the header to 3" then do a full 3" system back by either deleting the cat or getting a 3" high flow cat
The following users liked this post:
Sonnick (04-30-2013)
04-30-2013, 10:07 AM
#1359
Decided to just take out the Y and run one single raw 2.5 outlet for now. Should save a couple more lbs this way.
The shop would not work in front of the cat.
I asked them to chop the header and run 3" to the back. He said he don't have the flange or the 3" pipe either.
So 2.5 single for now.
The shop would not work in front of the cat.
I asked them to chop the header and run 3" to the back. He said he don't have the flange or the 3" pipe either.
So 2.5 single for now.