richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Ran out of cut off's. One more cut to make and passenger side will be done too.
It should be close to another 2.5lbs loss.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

.

Going to trim out the extra metal in the trunk today.
And remove the metal evap line I left when I removed the evap stuff.

New nitrous line and bottle heater should be here tomorrow.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I didn't weigh this stuff but I say another 2.5-3lb loss today.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

It's funny, here you are stripping your car down and reducing weight pound by pound. Then I seen your door panels (or lack of) and it reminded me of my car. As much hell as I give you over this, I'm doing the same thing. Although I could really care less about weight TBH. I stripped my car solely for the look. I've AWAYS had a thing for a hollowed out, performance oriented street car with some power behind it. Because its those cars you see at a red light or out on the road you can't stop staring at. And thinking things like "man, I wonder he runs on the quarter" or "is that thing even street legal?"......only to find out, it's your daily driver.

Btw, how many miles you have on the j37 now? Oh also, I bought an Escort GT2 from 037 here on the forum and after I pull a few numbers from it, I'd like to send it to you and get an idea of what you're making too if that's alright? It would benefit alot of people here that are interested in building a j37...like myself.

Car looks good btw. Great work so far man!

Marcelechka

How's the cabin noise?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Thanks,
I'm doing it to run down v8's. At one time I just wanted to be faster than a type s ,but that hurdle has been cleared a long time ago.

I don't think I have 6k on the engine yet.
Since about 1500 though all miles after have been basically hard miles. I take care of it,changing plugs,oil,valve adjustments,etc. But hard miles are hard miles. Can't do maintenance to rings or bearings.

I don't follow with what your saying about numbers and sending stuff.

LOL,
Sounds like a helicopter at idle,no way to make it sound quite unless cruising.WOT is ear piecing.
Headers and only a hi flow cat.


Import night was rained out last weekend and now it's going down this friday night.
I got a sitter. Now I just got to find someone else to drive another one of my cars so I don't have to drive to the track on slicks.
Anyone near NC want to run their acura ?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Quick template for passenger side mirror delete.
Don't know why my rubber molding trim is out of place,I'll have to try to fix that.
Dropped the piece off to get cut today and I will have it tomorrow.
So that will be a 5lb loss and a reduction in drag.



And got my new nitrous line and heater to get the spray,ahhh spraying.


Also picked up a 2.75 piece and a 3" turn down pipe as a temp thing so I'm not blowing exhaust fumes right at the evap delete tubes.
It's killing me that I might be adding 1.5lbs back to the car.
I guess 1.5lbs is better than exploding.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

test fitting the mirror delete.it started to get dark on me so I guess I will have to finish it up tomorrow.




My dam nitrous warmer does not work.I ran it off of 3 switches and even powered it right off a battery and nothing.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

brought the heater in the house and tested it again off a battery and sure enough it worked.
went threw the car with a flashlight and mutimeter,had a poor ground.
So I re installed it just now. That thing gets crazy hot in like 10sec.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Man, pretty soon, you'll be driving just a frame around, nice work

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Well the bottle heater is just a piece of crap.
so I tried to fire it up today and it turned on for 3 sec total and shut off.
And it is basically to warm a cold bottle but,shuts off to early to increase any psi in the bottle in warm weather.
Seller said I can send it back and I'm looking for something better that will actually work and get me above 1000psi anytime I want.
Seller says he usally just sells them in the colder months because of this issue.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I NEVER liked the thermostatically controlled bottle heaters in any brand. They always shut off way too early for my liking.

I had great results using a non-thermostatically controlled heater that the power was controlled using a pressure activated switch. Look on Ebay and you can find them pretty easily and they are easily able to keep the bottle in a healthy range of 800-1000psi.

Also, not sure how much you know about the pressure thing but generally speaking, the higher you run the bottle pressure the harder the hit but fades off quickly because the liquid no2 doesn't have time to boil fast enough to maintain a constant/optimal pressure. The lower the bottle pressure is kept, the softer (and less powerful at max flow) the hit is but it carries a more consistent level of power that will last much longer. For the street, high pressure is best. For the track, lower pressure.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I did not know that. Right now my bottle is at 900psi full not trying to heat it.
What do you think about that for 1/8 mile runs ?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Car was f'n up at first but,
ripped a 8.1 @93mph
and still could not get traction.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

all motor? sweet time!

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I wish, That would be the badest all motor j32. ever
I probally juicing 70hp nitrous

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Pics of the mirror delete.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

-11.5lbs today

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Honestly, the optimal pressure depends on several factors such as expected power (jet sizing), bottle size, line length, etc. This is of course because all of those things have a big play in how quickly the pressure is released from the tank and how well the system maintains the pressure from that initial release. You should try playing around (using one jet size) with starting system pressures to see which one gives you a consistent level of power all the way till the end of the run. Shorter lines are best at improving this as are larger bottles that wont drop pressure as quickly. Smaller bottles (10lbs and under) tend to lose much quicker as they dont have enough liquid to boil off. In the end, I ran 20lb (15's are good too) bottles and this made a BIG difference. I have a few large full bottles laying around if yoiu want to try them out. If you dont like them, just send them back.

rush

iTrader: (1)

i hate my warmer to same problem.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I almost bought a 12.8lb carbon fiber bottle but the dam auction ended before i got out of bed.i don't really want to carry anymore weight than nessasary so i want to stay away from the heavier tanks.
One thing i did notice today is afr is in the low 10's on the spray.that might be a little to rich.I'm thinking about going up one size with the nitrous jet to sort it out it out.what do you think is the best way,bigger nitrous jet or smaller fuel jet? i don't want to lower the fuel pressure.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Just ordered up a CF mirror for the drivers side so I guess the oem mirror will be coming off and I'll be droping a few more lbs and reducing a little more drag.
I think I need to get a line lock on this thing because rolling burnouts are not letting me get the tires properly heated.
If I only could get a nice launch 1.7-1.8 60ft's.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

You would want to combat the rich issue you're having by installing a smaller fuel jet. Otherwise, you will increase power by increasing the size of the nitrous jet. If you're ok with moving higher in power then by all means, do so. I'm just saying that's generally not how to solve a rich condition.

I ran my j32a2 in my 03 TL-S very rich while spraying to offset detonation but in the end, it was just as dangerous to the engine. The absolute best way to accurately judge any AF ratio in a motor is by reading the plugs. And because your CL is a track car, it would be best to install brand new plugs (one step colder btw) before I nitrous run. Make the run and as soon as you make the numbers across the line, kill the engine and if they will allow, coast to a stop and pull atleast two plugs from each bank to see if you really are burning a rich mixture. The sooner you kill the engine after the run, the more accurate the readings will be.

Another thing to consider at this point would be to run a meth injection system. This way, your detonation prone 3.7 will be much safer during spray. Make it to where it ONLY activates with nitrous runs. That way you can effectively "tune" the AF ratio using the fuel jet from the nitrous systems fuel solenoid. Otherwise, the stock ECM obviously will make zero benefit whatsoever due to it being unprogrammable. This would also enable you to safely increase the amount of nitrous on the motor without increasing the risks of detonation related failures or damage.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I got one step colder plugs already.I'm going to get a set if higher and a set of lower jets to see what works best.after reading around most people have said start rich then lean it out with larger n2o jet to get close to high 10's to low 11 afr then fine tune with fuel pressure. what do you think about that method?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I don't think you can really call this his daily driver. If that is the case mine is a dd also.

When people see a hollowed out Acura the only thing that comes to their minds is why. That is pretty much the only comments I get. Why gut a car? Why an acura? Why a fwd car? Most people don't even understand how lightening a car can make it handle and brake better.

You really are taking this to the extreme for a fwd drag car. Now you just need a solid front axle...

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

As soon as it starts hooking it will need axle upgrades.but right now it is spinning. I baby it off the line enough not to spin once the tires hook enough on the motor i spray it and then it spins 20ft before hooking up.when i go back i should be another 20lbs lighter and will be looking for 94mph in the 1/8.the Last time i was there i was seeing some of the faster guys taking notice. 60Fts are keeping me from ripping off some really quick 1/8 times.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I was actually referring to my car. In which IS my daily driver.

And Rich, like I said, lean it out using a smaller fuel jet....in incremental stages of course. Not that enlarging the nitrous jet isn't leaning out the mixture also, its just adding power while leaning out the mixture due to adding more nitrous.

As for driving around in a car that's been completely stripped, some fancy the idea while others don't. I personally don't like it BUT when keeping the performance aspect of the vehicle prioritized, maintaining comfort/luxury in the vehicle takes away from that priority, pretty simple.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Just dropped off my templete for drivers side mirror delete.hopefully i'll have it back by the end of the day.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

What are you doing the deletes with?

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

1/8 tinted plexi.

Drivers side cut. Now time to mount.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Mounted
Just waiting for the CF mirror to show up.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

CF mirror mounted -4lb loss

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

This will be another 10lbs loss when I get out to put my rear coilovers back on.
Got bushings back in.

They weigh 5lbs less each than the stocks and eibach rears.
Stiffer rear springs might make for a better launch too.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

rear coilovers are back in for a 11lb loss and suspension is much tighter
Now my car is pre sqwatted in the rear.I will have to fix that before I hit the track again.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Went to the track tonight and I say I had 99% fail.
The car was not shifting out of 2nd again.
every run it either did not shift completely or I had to let off for it to shift.
even with letting off it completely to shift It still was pulling 8.2's at 91+

Only had one run that I was able to shift threw gears and I still let off slightly to hope it would shift after messing with the dam tps again and it ran another 8.1 at 93mph.


In other runs I was putting down some good 330ft's of just about 5.3 flats.
Judging by those and the other runs tonight combined with having to let off,tonight should have been a 7.9 night if the car would shift to 3rd WOT.

Well, I'm done playing with that infinity tps till I find out if it's the tps or something else.

Tomorrow my ported clp manifold and type s throttle body are going back on for a test to see if the infinity tps is the problem.

Even with car car not shifting out of 2nd with out hitting the limiter I was still beating people.

Their was a nasty sounding mustang that clouded the place I raced and before my car hit the limiter, my front bumper was still on his car. he was running 7.29
He definitely would have got me but, he must have had 600hp.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Can't wait to see what you do with the manifold

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I didn't know you were still running a ported TL-P manifold.

You should seriously consider running something larger from the lower runners up. I know they're ported and all but they are so much restrictive compared to even the j32a2 intake components. If you pay shipping, I'll literally let you try some from a j32a2, j35a6 or j35a4.

Other than that are you certain it's your TPS and not your AT goofing up on you?

Btw, good to see somebody consistently improving their car around here still. This section is sadly becoming a graveyard.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I was running a ported j32a2 mani with a 90mm tb.
And it is certainly the tps.
I just installed my clp mani and j32a2 tb with stock tps and the car was hitting all shifts. I'm just missing some top end power now.
I even have a iacv again
I'm going to try some more runs and try some nitrous to to be sure that it's fixed.

Now I have factory readings right off the tps-voltage and % from the scanner for the oem tps.
I might try to make it work and match the settings of the oem one,one more time.

But if that does not work out I will be wanting to do something.

Which of the manifolds you have will make the most power?
Talk to me man, I will probably try switching back sometime this weekend to see if it works going to the same settings the Honda tps is showing.

My OEM TPS is showing

9.4% closed
89.4% WOT

.52v closed
4.43v WOT

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I guess to try to see if it will go to 3rd WOT on the spray I'm just going to use a Ejector air filter right on the TB.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Firstly, I definitely like the new look in the engine compartment dude. Great job on that.

If you want, I can measure port diameters between the j32a3 and the j35a6 and see which one would benefit you most because they're pretty close to the same design as far as everything else goes. I have plenty of TB's laying around for fitment purposes to ensure a cable actuated TB can be mounted up on whichever one you decide to test.

And if you notice on your TPS data, it says (roughly) 10% at CT and 90% at WOT. That would be caused by the sensor being misadjusted or a wiring issue that's causing inaccurate information to be sent from the sensor itself. If its clocked 10% forward, that would cause it to never reach 100% at WOT...but 90% as it is. I'd put my money on the being misadjusted.