Rajca

iTrader: (8)

nope

fsttyms1

Nice job

typeSasicanbrunette

iTrader: (1)

So I C ur getting closer to getting ur lip kit on!
I ordered me the same one and the front lip did the same thing AGAIN right in the middle! BE CAREFUL! Ecsp. since u like speed

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

That sucks. I think I'm gonna add a stainless steel plate under it. That's cheaper and easier to replace. Plus it will last longer

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

I swear it's Lip Kit season or something. Everyone on the CL side is all of a sudden getting a lip kit. I wish i had the $ right now to get a lip kit

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

lip kit makes the car stand out more.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

test pipe is out, cat is in. sooooo much quieter now, but i can feel teh lose in power up top in teh rpm.

no way to really add any braces to the under brace bar. but i have been looking at how to bolt up a traction bar and think i have found a way

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

ok it may sound noob but what is traction bar, cons and pros about it

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

helps reduce wheel hop

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

is that your under brace bar ? or something else

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

thats something else that they dont make for our car

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

interesting...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

or a spherical bearing be awesome too for the strut rod, like McKinney's

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

radius rod?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

same thing (thinking more of what domestics call it ) but yes (also a bearing inner lower bushing would help reduce wheel hop too, but not as much as the foward one)

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

its been "said" that we can use teh prelude radius rod bushing. no one had done it.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i know, but some has to be the test mule :cough: rajca :cough: i emailed them once but never got a response though


also if you look at ingall's "replacement" bushings, the same number covers our car and the prelude iirc, so it might just be the hardness or something for the reason of different OEM part #'s

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

than buy it and try it out

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

referencerd here as strut rods

http://mustangfords.automotive.com/4...ion/index.html

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

and also, i just got my acurazine.com stickers a few days ago.


i was thinking more like this
http://forum.crookedh.com/showthread.php?t=4612

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

got them today


and i would worry about them causing binding in the suspension, if you use them in addition to the stock rods, due to not having the same traveling arc as the stock one
so i think replacing that bushing would be best or this:

http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/a...on-bar-kit.asp

would help to cut some weight at the same time too (replacing the stock rod and crossmember)
and should not be that hard to fab especially if you already got a welder, the accurency would be the biggest issue though (for both sides being the same length and on the same arc/angle too)

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

one on each side for the back. suspension travel will be thier and teh bushings will allow it to move up and down but not back and fourth like the stock bushings do

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

so then no stock rods???


it will still bind if the stock ones are there, but the bushings will compress and such, so the binding will not be apperent at first though

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

stock rods plus traction bars. ill see how it works out

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

just letting you know it will bind up (even if it has minimal suspension travel, it is still traveling), i would look more at eliminate the stock one with the rear one, or replacing it with a different one

unless of course if you somehow make it work like how a watts linkage works
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt's_linkage

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

shouldnt bind up. unless ur going off road. which non of u do

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the watts linkage is for rwd or for the rear end with a solid axle, not irs. u need to start looking at fwd traction bars. their is no room and now way a watts linkage will work in our car

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i know a watts is for a rear axle, but read full sentence



but it is still going to travel some though, even if it is only an 1" or 2" at the apex of a courner, from body lean and such, the bushing on the stock arm might be able to still allow it to flex enough from the bushings compressing and such, but they will probably wear out real fast, from the loads being put onto them from "your" traction bar

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

some how many civic and tegs are running the bar without a problem. dont see how it is gonna be a problem for us

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you mean like the bars in the linky i provided abovehttp://www.redlinemotive.com/store/avid-racing/avid-racing-traction-bar-kit.aspif so that completely replaces the stock radius rod, and the front section of the crossmember/engine cradle right next to the radiater

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

Some like that and some have just the bars like I want to do

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

cause i see no problem with the arms in the linky, and i would say the one to the rear would be no problem either IF it does not have the stock arm anymore up front to bind up agianst, but being that you want to roadrace the car though, you need to think about how it will affect the suspension geometry throughout the suspension travel, like when turning and such, cause with it at the back, the caster will go more neutral when it travels instead of steeper (positive???, i always f*** up negetive and positive on castor) if the bar starts out level

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Dunno if its just me, but because of the database issues I cant quote.

@Rajca - The Civics and Tegs that are running those crossmembers (or traction bars) completely replace the OEM front crossmember and radius rods. The that are going from the LCA to the rear of the car have been used as well but Ive not heard anyone that uses that. I do know that when you run the rear bars on Civics you can no longer use the front sway bar. Solid radius rods with Heim joints make wheel hop non-existant. I had a Full Race crossmember in my 88 Civic, and Im running an ETD crossmember in my 90. They do a damn good job, but you will notice it does change the handling when it comes to corners. Its not incredibly noticeable, but it does cause the car to plow through turns more.



@Fries - Notice the angle the rear stabilizer bar is at? It wont bind during suspension travel due to where its mounted. Now if you had it mounted straight back, then yes, there will be binding.

Im more then happy with just the front crossmember in the Civic, so Id concentrate on the front with the CL before I think about those stabilizer bars.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

don't worry civic can't qoute right now either :S, but yes in that picture it would not bind, cause the pivots line up between the rear arm and the control arm (it would also have to line up vertically also) but yeah a bit overkill if you ask me, arm is already "solidly mounted by that front one, so i don't see a purpose for that rear one

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

actually thinking about that setup, it would still bind too, cause when the control arms goes up and down, the rear arm would make it go up and down perfectly striaght while the front arm would be trying to pull the control arm in an arc throughout it's travelbut if you would want no binding, ALL the pivots would have to be lined up in a row to prevent any binding in the suspension

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

like so: http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/1...ontrearbig.jpg

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The front does pull the LCA slightly forward, but the joints on the rear stabilizer arm allow that bar to pivot in all directions. Its hard to describe but due to the angle, it will move up and forward along with the front radius rod as the suspension compresses.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

fries, ur pic would make no sense. it wouldnt do any good with preventing wheel hop.

but i was thinking of doing something like civic posted. where the front radius rod stays and i add a rear one