Use an LED and place it right in the dash pod,.. or if you can get it behind the A/C vent, pointing towards the driver that would be good also.

 

Thanks Steve.

 

Can you clamp the IAT sensor output voltage to the 'desired' value - say when its 40C outside - via the E-manage? This way the only variable affecting timing is TPS, MAP and the knock-sensor?

 

Nope, nor would you want to without extended tuning.

The IAT is not a transmitter; powered sensor. It is merely a variable resistor and would not work through the e-Manage. The ECU provides a source voltage and it is dropped relative to temperature and read back by the ECU; a two wire passive sensor.

As to why you wouldn't want to do it; it is about 30% of the load calculation. So you would need to tune further taking into account its actual value. Little would be gained with timing here anyway as the ECT is significantly used for timing in addition to the other sensors.

 

So to bypass the vtec, I have a small problem. The vtm wire has broken off of my frog harness. I need one pin that I can put into the connector and solder a new wire to the back of it. I'm not sure where to get one around here, and I'm betting you've got an extra one you could part with. It's the pin that goes in the male connector that you have mounted in the box. Any chance you could drop one in the mail for me? Or any ideas where to get one,...the Radio Shack kid looked at me and said

 

The male pins in the socket were fixed. They were part of the mold it appeared. I do have a few extra female pins which go in the plugs. It appears you need the other end though and this is something I feared with mine and why I left the strain releif on. Even though it hampered the packaging.

 

Is there some type of wire-end I can insert in the back of the stock plug to use as a jumper?

It is the wire that you don't use if you wire vtec thru the eman, so for a while it was cut and taped, and ended up broken from all the handling.

I think what I might do is have a male only connector made with long tails, and using the plugs I have, do what you did, although It will need to be a little different. The RPM signal is from connector A wich comes from the drivers side of the dash. It is the only wire used from connector A so I might just use a tapped QD connector on the stock harness for that one. Connector D is not used at all for the eman, but is all wrapped up with B & C, so I'll either have to unwrap the large harness, and try to split them, or just add it in to the custom harness.

 

You could probably tap into the wire end of the plgs and jumper that signal just fine. I would begin with a small paper clip and see if it will slide in next to the wire and make a solid contact. Then just solder a wire to it and tape it up.

Yea, I'm just using the two connectors of main relevance. The RPM signal is also on another connector which I just used a tap into it with a bullet connector in case it needs to be removed.

I'll see if I can get your socket and pulgs and let you know early next week. If so I'll make up a harness for you if you would like?? I'd just need your e-Manage harnesses.

 

That would be great. Let me know if you can, and I'll send you the harness.

I'm changing out the front header, T-Stat, and fan switch this weekend, along with a few things on the Si. It's about 40* here so it's not that cold just yet.

BTW, nice write up over at AW.

 

40 degrees is a bit too cold for me to be outside.

 

There was an ulterior motive for that.

 

What a surprise; I guess there is enough RPM resolution to fully control timing. I was able to advance timing!!

I set up the e-Manage to advance timing 5 degrees when the MAP voltage was below 3.0VDC and retard it 5 degrees above the same voltage level. I used a Tektronix hand held scope with dual channels to view the input and output ignition signals and was able to see the corresponding offset. There was an approximate 5 degrees in the timing offset of the two signals; preceding or trailing depending on what I was doing with the throttle.

What does this mean; you NA guys have a tool to get more power. And it is programmable for you self tuners.

I may try to hook up with someone local and see what we can get out of their motor through tuning the e-Manage. I would expect some decent and noticeable gains to be available similar to the Unichip.

 

The next step will be to tie the HO2S1 into the e-Manage for data acquisition capability. This is until a UEGO is ordered and installed. I'll tie it in as a second airflow signal and monitor the value at WOT. Currently I see about 920mV and based on what Brad has seen (making assumptions here) this would be in the mid 10's:1 A/F ratio. This does correspond somewhat to what I would expect as an output and that A/F ratio.

So I will try to extend the pulse width just to see an increase in the voltage value. From there I will drop the pressure and start tuning to hit 870mV across the whole RPM band.

I should have this done in the next couple of days.

 

This is good stuff!!

 

Wow,.... that sure changes things!! Great news!!

 

Steve be careful up high. I had alot of highway time today and with the TStat, and the cooler temps here, my A/F ratio has leaned out quite a bit. From a 70 mph cruise, I went right to the floor, hit the kickdown gear, and rode it right to the shift at the redline. At 41* ambient temp, it would start at 10.5:1 and rise to 11.5:1 at the top. On the way home the ambient temp was 36* and it went from 10.8:1 up to11.8:1.

I know your temps aren't that cold there, but do you think the TStat swap could somehow effect the A/F ratio in a round about way. I was always able to bury the A/F ratio before the TStat swap. The headers helped a bit, but I could still bury it. The cooler temps helped even more, but I was still able to bounce it off the 10:1 bottom. I guess if 5* ambient temp difference can change the A/F ratio three tenths, then up at 48* could put the A/F at 10:1. What ever the reason, the TL-S is running really, really, strong, and the only difference is the TStat swap and the ambient temps are down 5-10 degrees.

BTW, I got the E-Man unit back today. Thanks again for checking it out.

 

this is great news.

 

great news guys man its cold this am i just came back from a run at 30 degrees and man does it pull emanage+ic+cold temps=wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks for the tip, which is needed information. I will proceed cautiously.

BTW, whose wide band are you using?? Do they have it without a display and just an analog output?? Also, how much was yours?? I am waiting on a price from Dean on the AEM UEGO but also wanted options.

 

I just tried to set it up to accept a second airflow input signal but this did not work out. It would not acknowledge the 2nd airflow sensor signal input settings. My guess is that there is some dependency on the switch settings also. With it showing the Honda pressure input as the primary the firmware may ignore the 2nd input.

Oh well, I was just going to use it for data logging the HO2S1 signal anyway. I can use the OBD-2 software for this.

I did change it back to VTEC and will use the output signal to trigger a buzzer instead of a light. This will be easier to add and should be accomplished today.

 

What guage will you use with the AEM UEGO... it seems to be the cheapest real wide-band (using the Bosch O2 sensor) sensor out there!

 

That is damn sweet!! So now I'm wondering about controlling the Vtec engagement. Seems like the result was not good when you tried to control it with E-manage. I would think that Uni-Chip would have the same result, therefore, not worth the time and money?

Because believe it or not, Tony brought up some of the things you've mentioned when I asked them about getting the Vtec module.

As soon as I get my AC for the S, I'm going E-manage for sure.

 

No gauge, just data log the 0 - 5VDC output and correlate it to RPM. I'll do a XY Plot (X being RPM and Y being A/F ratio). I have portable high speed data acquisition equipment at my disposal so I might as well use it. I can sample quicker than the sensors can respond; 100 kHz continuous.

I may end up putting a gauge in the glove box though.

And yes, the AEM unti seems to be priced great.

 

I don't know if the Unichip would have the same results. But it could seeing as the inputs and outputs from the e-Manage seemed correct. It could be solved though with a little research. But as you mention, is it even worth it.

Did you mean IC in that last sentence; I thought you already had air conditioning. :P

 

lol, AC = AfterCooler... But having Air Conditioner is also good for the summer.

 

http://techedge.com.au/

There is tons of ifo here, including DIY units. I purchased the 1.5 version before the 2.0 was available. At the time the sesor was $100 from the Parts Bin. Now they are over $300. The v2.0 uses the EUGO sensor, so there is less cost with the sensor now. You can get it w/o the display and log the analog output, along with a few other parameters of your choosing. You can also send the ecu a narrowband signal and use the stock O2 bung for the wideband sensor w/o throwing a code. Most of what I said here pertains to the v1.5, but I assume the v2.0 does the same and then some. Spend some time looking it over, and let me know what you think. I will need to upgrade mine when my sensor craps out down the road. As I said there is tons of info there. Tech Edge has been around for a while, and has a good reputation. They were very responsive to the few questions I had when I was hooking it up. The prices are all in Austrailian $, which is much less than US$. They will have the current $ exchange on the site somewhere, but I think it's aroud 1/3.

 

I have a 3GHz real-time scope and a couple of 70GHz BW scopes if you need any experiments done. Not to mention a 110GHz Network Analyzer

 

I'll probably go with the DIY system after all. I like the fact that it has an RPM input and has a serial ouput. This alone would negate the need for me to come up with my own program.

Thanks...

 

I got the buzzer hooked up and set for 6700 RPM and it works. Although I could set it a bit lower. The revs are climbing quickly where by the time I hear it and begin to shift I am already at the rev limiter. I think I'll drop it to 6500 RPM.

 

Are you going to wait for the 2.0 DIY kit so you can use the less expensive sensors? As I recall, the prebuilt kits were not that much more than the prebuilt.

 

I like the buzzer idea.

 

According to their site the DIY kits ship a few days after the order is received.

Yes, I will be getting the DIY 2.0 kit. I should be able to get everything, including the display, for about $230. This would include the LSU4 sensor. The pre-built kit would run about $415.

 

Great! I only looked briefly at the site.
That's a subsantial difference! Deffinately worth it if you have the "right stuff" to put it together.

For those that don't want DIY, $415 is still a good value.

 

HeHe,....another project for you!

 

Without a doubt!!!

I was just about to order the AEM unit for about $350. Now I can get this, have an RPM input reference and a display for over $100 less ($65 more for non-DYI). And the software to read and log the data is already made saving me more time and is free.

 

Looks like I'll come in at about 5:00AM a couple of mornings. That or pay one of our technicians to do it.

 

Steve, it dawned on me today that they might have started using the winter fuel here in the soon to be "Great White North", and that may be the cause my leaner than normal A/F ratios. There are some sort of additives used in the winter, that if I'm not mistaken, can lean things up a bit.

 

The tech-edge was a very good find

 

Hrmm, intersting. I'll still move cautiously and might be delayed a little while waiting on the WBo2.

I plan on getting a bleed screw from Comptech for the FPR to get it set the way I will ultimately be running it; at about a 5:1 rate.

BTW, keep that white stuff up there, we can't handle it down here.

 

I'm sure you've seen this. On pages 2 & 3 it shows the graphs of the effect the different springs and calibration washers have on FP vs Boost. Of course you would need to dissasemble the fpr to do so.

http://www.comptechusa.com/instructions/ins036.pdf