i think the 3 of us need to hook...me and steve drive to tally and we hang out get in some runs...have some dinner and drinks then head home...what 'd you guys say?

 

Shoot, I have a hard enough time getting away from the girls for a few hours.

 

Tell me you aren't talking about me? I couldn't keep up with either of you!

 

it's alright...it's all in fun...

 

i wouldnt mind helping out either, it wouldnt be fair if you guys paid all the costs. but if you will incorporate the costs into the final product then it will make sense.

 

I'm pretty interested to see how this all turns out. Do we have donor 6 speed I/H/E car to get a map made? If not would the auto I/H/E map work? This would probably put me in the 13's.

 

No, just my blown 6-Speed will be tested along with a 5AT TL-S with the basics. But the auto map should work well for the 6-Speed but there might be some changes which could be untilized. I'd be willing to test another if available...

 

BTW, just six days until the dyno...

 

What are your plans for the CT FPR for this dyno session?

 

Add different bleed screws until I get the one which gives me the pressure I desire. I want to have about 75 - 80 PSI fuel pressure at 6 PSI boost. At the same time I will be dropping my base pressure without vacuum to about 55 PSI (about stock).

 

Will you need the 7th injector?

 

Not at this time. Since we run rich just with fuel pressure enhancements we have enough injector at this time. I'll just drop the pressure enough to get on the lean side and then add pulse width where needed to get it to about 12.5:1 - 12.0:1. I'll then adjust timing until I get the best numbers possible.

With the IC and more boost, I don't know what will be needed. I may just go to larger injectors to be sure. Or I might run additional squirters. I'll examine this soon though.

 

what will you look for with the N/A car? 13.2? and if you might explain somethin to me...i realize stoich is leaner then desired but is it the most power? or most fuel economy a/f's or both but too lean to run WOT ...give me a lesson in a/f's please

 

Stoich, (14.7:1), is for emissions. The best performance A/F ratio has yet to be determined by dyno tuning, but you're probably close at 13.2-13.4. The sweet spot for each car, of the same make and model, could vary a bit, but not by too much.

 

why

 

The stoichiometric ratio for gasoline is 14.7:1. At this ratio all of the fuel is burned using all of the gasoline; complete combustion occurs. This allows for the lowest emissions output. In a richer than stoichiometric ratio, HC and CO levels are higher. In a lean A/F ratio NOx emissions are higher.

For most cars the ideal power output ratio is in the 12.5:1 - 13.0:1 range. There are some variances to this but generally most fall in this range. This is due to the richer condition allowing a cooler charge to curb detonation. But there is enough heat and consistent burn to promote good power.

 

yea,...that's what I meant

 

Correction needed after I re-read this; it should be:

At this ratio all of the fuel is burned using all of the oxygen; complete combustion occurs.

 

u guys still on for sat??

when would we have the settings by??

 

Yep, we are still going this Saturday. I'll be at the shop at 7:30 AM and should be on the roller a little after 8:00 AM. I expect I will take about 1.5 - 2.0 hours and then we will get r10apple's TL-S on the rollers to see what it can do. Tuning on his car may take less time, about 1.0 - 1.5 hours since there are no fuel pressure adjustments to make.

I need to be home by about 12:30 as my wife has a baby shower to attend which leaves me with the twins. Once they go down for a nap I can post the dyno plots upload the configuration file for those wanting it immediately.

So, I would say it will be available by about 2:00 PM on Saturday.

 

I'm in Ga and I have a 01 CL S auto. If you need this type for test let me know. I can bring my car.

 

I just responded to your email. What mods do your currently have?? Based on the email I would assume you do not have headers.

 

2001 CLS auto. Injen intake, Nuespeed Cat Back system. Cat Eliminator with Casper Cat Engine check light eliminator. Waiting on OBX Headers in Mail. Hope to install this weekend. Thanks.

 

Who is installing the headers??

 

Otherwise known as "O2 Simm"

 

Man...
Started getting sick Sunday before the game, installed rotors in the rain and played golf in the wet Monday, then ended up with an abscessed tonsil...I've been in the worst pain and haven't eaten in like two days until just a little while ago. The swelling is finally going down and I'll be fine for the trip...

I was freaking out thinking I was missing something other than what I have just read: techie stuff above my head!

 

thanks

so if i have the codes and all on how to tune the e-man. i could possible have it in by next week??

 

If you are going to hard wire all twenty eight leads, yes.

You will need the e-Manage main unit, the two optional harnesses and the support tool.

 

Wow, I do hope you start feeling better. It should be a bit cool on Saturday morning so dress warm; no need to have a relapse.

 

I checked the weather just now: high of 39 and low of 18 on Saturday. Whoa!

I will indeed dress warm for sure. Also should make some nice numbers on the 'ol ride...

I am feeling better, throat is not as swollen now, but I sound like a 976 operator...

 

Nice wheather for the Dyno.

 

You might be required to show proof your pulley is on before the codes are released to you! :P

 

Im not sure how I am going to get Headers on. Was going to try myself but dont think I want the hassle. You know good place in GA. Dealership wants too much. Know anywhere in Metro Atl that is reasonable cost and good ?

 

Yea I like that better !

 

Hey Brad, we have too busy to completely re-do your harness. But I plan on extending it completely prior to sending it back.

I did fix that broken/lost VTM pin though. I clipped and removed a pin from my first harness (now unused) and installed it in yours. I put a small terminal on the wire and soldered this onto the pin; it ain't breaking off now.

Also, I hard wired the VTM lead across since we will not be using the VTEC control at this time. Plus, I also hard wired the VTSOL signal across for the same reason.

As mentioned, I'll be extending the harness prior to sending it back. I do want to check out the harness routing before extending it. I assume you will want to mount in the glove box?? If so, I need to see how the factory harness routes when compared to the 6-Speed because I have quite a bit of extra harness length which I want to try and eliminate from your.

So we shall see what it can do in the morning.

BTW, when I determine what size bleed screw is used I’ll send ya a few with the e-Manage. I’ll also send the data file I used on my car. That way you should pretty much be able to plug in and go after installing the bleed screw and dropping the pressure. You will probably want to verify the A/F ratio versus RPM to see if there are any differences between the 6-Speed and 5AT tuning.

 

It should still be pretty nasty in the morning. It may not be raining but everything should still be wet as the clouds are not moving out until later.

http://www.weather.com/outlook/recre...ocalRecreation

http://www.weather.com/outlook/recre...30067?dayNum=1

 

I'm going to get there a little early as there is another car being tested just prior to us which I would like to see.

 

I'll be there right around 8am...I'm leaving for Atlanta within the hour.

 

Have a safe trip....

 

Steve, Thank You, Thank You and Thank You!

I will end up in the glove box with it, and had it there already. The cable seamed long enough when I followed another harness from the firewall, towards the front of the glove box. You'll see when you get into r10apple's. The length may be ok, but what ever you think makes sense is cool.

Good luck on the dyno!