Custom Poly Engine Mounts

Old Oct 5, 2009 | 09:05 PM
  #281  
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im gonna be doing this in the next week or 2. doing 94A
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 09:28 AM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by Rajca
im gonna be doing this in the next week or 2. doing 94A
Rajca,

I have had 60A on all five mounts for about 9 mos. now and I think it is more than adequate. I know you are tracking your car. I suggest you at least fill only the rear with 60A. The vibrations are on the very brink of excessive and crazy with 60A in all the mounts. 60A is all I can imagine would be tolerable on a daily basis. I had the crappy innovative mounts and the excessive vibration was to much on a day to day driving basis. Just something to consider.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by jproy
Rajca,
I had the crappy innovative mounts and the excessive vibration was to much on a day to day driving basis.
What's the matter? Don't like driving around in a rolling vibrator?

Oh, and crappy Innovative mounts is being too kind.

We were . . :rippedoff

Ruf
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 12:43 PM
  #284  
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im ordering new one right now... cant wait anymore.... is that part number correct ? 50800-S0K-A82 ? im going poly fill it should i use 60A ? anyone tried to fill it from a bottom ? there is no other way if you want to fill it from a top you have cut the rubber right ?
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 02:42 PM
  #285  
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a front mount just arrived but i dont how to get to it... where to drain fluid and whats the easiest way to fill it up with polly i know it been posted but i could find instruction how to do it right to do not mess it up
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #286  
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Originally Posted by StreetKA
a front mount just arrived but i dont how to get to it... where to drain fluid and whats the easiest way to fill it up with polly i know it been posted but i could find instruction how to do it right to do not mess it up
the front mount is not to be drained. only filled between that top plate and the main mount. look at the pics on page 1 or 2 and you'll see the duct tape i used to hold the poly in place.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 09:49 PM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by distortedolskool
the front mount is not to be drained. only filled between that top plate and the main mount. look at the pics on page 1 or 2 and you'll see the duct tape i used to hold the poly in place.
yup that makes sense now for me thanks... i'll do it tomorrow

Last edited by StreetKA; Nov 4, 2009 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 10:30 AM
  #288  
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Originally Posted by StreetKA
yup that makes sense now for me thanks... i'll do it tomorrow
crap. take that back because that was my first test. you still fill the same area but keep the top cover on also. this entire area above and below the plate get filled. this is because the motor under load pulls upward on the front mount. this is why the poly is needed above the plate. check these pictures out.




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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by distortedolskool
crap. take that back because that was my first test. you still fill the same area but keep the top cover on also. this entire area above and below the plate get filled. this is because the motor under load pulls upward on the front mount. this is why the poly is needed above the plate. check these pictures out.




you have such a good timing haha i just started doing it. thanks for a hassle
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #290  
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Originally Posted by StreetKA
you have such a good timing haha i just started doing it. thanks for a hassle
I sincerely hope thats sarcasm.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 01:05 PM
  #291  
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
I sincerely hope thats sarcasm.
it is sarcasm, thanks distortedolskool for help
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 11:07 AM
  #292  
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the revised front mount was discuss in the thread i know. read the entire thread before starting. remember this was a new project we were trying. jproy posted some great pictures and discovered the issue with my first front mount. glad we could help!

i just drove my car last night and she still doesn't hop. i will inspect the mounts this afternoon for any recent wear.
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Old Nov 6, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #293  
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my mounts broke my rear engine mount bracket and my tranny bell housing where the bolts go in. any suggestions?
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 06:07 PM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by phee
my mounts broke my rear engine mount bracket and my tranny bell housing where the bolts go in. any suggestions?
what durometer of poly did you use?
did you cut the rear rubber out or just fill in with poly around it?
do you have all 3 mounts poured?
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #295  
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another question how to get the front mount out ? i know i need to lift the motor up but can i get from top or that has to be done from a bottom ? i know that sounds stupid but i have to prepare myself to what kind of tools and how many jacks im gonna need if necessary... i need quick answer. thanks
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:04 PM
  #296  
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my guess would be a jack under the oil pan
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:08 PM
  #297  
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Originally Posted by distortedolskool
what durometer of poly did you use?
did you cut the rear rubber out or just fill in with poly around it?
do you have all 3 mounts poured?
60a

gutted and filled all three and i left the tranny mounts stock (thats where most of the vibration comes from)
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 07:09 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by DC3328
my guess would be a jack under the oil pan. make sure to put a piece of wood between them
fixed
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 10:57 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by phee
60a

gutted and filled all three and i left the tranny mounts stock (thats where most of the vibration comes from)
i didn't gut my rear....just filled in the gaps. i know my rear moves because it bulges out at the bottom. the bulge is just the movement of the mount pressing the poly outward. maybe gutting the rear should not be advised since when the engine is under major throttle it rocks back, placing most of the downward force on it. sorry to hear about the troubles.
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 11:33 PM
  #300  
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yea. i would recommend not filling the rear.

its all good. ive got a new bracket and its in the shop for "re-inforcement"
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #301  
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I didnt gut the rear either, just filled. The filling is starting to push out though.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 08:24 PM
  #302  
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i have my mount done today it was drying whole week and finally got it installed today i painted them black cuz i used the home depot poly 60A i must say its a huge improvement wheels still hop but not as much as it was b4





it took me 3 hours the remove old and install new one
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:13 PM
  #303  
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so looks like home depot poly isnt good enough... again lesson learned cheap is expensive i have to do it again so here it is poly urethan 60A from homedepot for 3$ tube and after i poured it into my front mount i let it dry for like i think 10 days or more. after the pain with install it feels like a shit again...

here is the pic


Last edited by StreetKA; Nov 24, 2009 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 10:02 PM
  #304  
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that sucks ass.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 05:52 AM
  #305  
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mcmaster.com
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #306  
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just pulled teh trigger on 80a. been told that 80a is holding up great from ppl that abuse their car a bit. so 80a with two nrg engine torque dampers will be enough
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #307  
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^ Thats my setup

Vibrations are there but I couldnt be happier with it. They have about 20k on them, 6k of which are after the build.
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #308  
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nice. thx for the update
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #309  
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I don't understand why it would be bad to fill the rear mount. I want to take these lame ass torque dampers out and I would rather gut the rear and fill it. I was going to buy a new rear mount to fill, but maybe I will buy a new rear one and gut and fill the one with 86k on it so if i don't like it for some reason I have a new factory one I can use. Only problem is I would have to swap out the old one with the new one in order to fill the old one so my car is not out of comission for a week. That and it would be twice the labor and a pain in my ass. ANY THOUGHTS?
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #310  
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Also, why not fill the bottom part of the front one where the fluid goes? In the beginning of this DIY the bottom was filled. If the bottom was filled along with the top inbetween the plate and cover wouldn't it be pretty damn strong? Is it not being reccommended just because it is unnecessary? Or is it bad for the fluid to not be in there?
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #311  
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what do you guys think about 80a in front and the rest 60a?
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 04:56 PM
  #312  
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i gutted the front one, spilled out all the fluid and but 80a in it. ill make "another" diy with gutting the mounts then filling them

rubber that i took out to get the fluid out and ply in




will finish the rest when i get more poly
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 02:05 PM
  #313  
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Just ordered 2 of the 60A, I can't wait! Finally! Anyone able to give me some better insight on whether or not to fill the bottom of the front mount? I should have enough to do it if I don't do the rear one...
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 02:07 PM
  #314  
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fill in the bottom
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 02:17 AM
  #315  
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Originally Posted by Rajca
i gutted the front one, spilled out all the fluid and but 80a in it. ill make "another" diy with gutting the mounts then filling them

rubber that i took out to get the fluid out and ply in




will finish the rest when i get more poly

so hows the DIY coming? im in need of new mounts
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 03:13 AM
  #316  
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+1
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 04:21 AM
  #317  
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progress is stopped. had to fix the damn tl and no i have to save up for court/ticket/lawyer costs. so all mods are put on hold
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 01:29 PM
  #318  
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Sorry to revive this post.
Has anyone ever filled their mounts with 40a?
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 10:47 PM
  #319  
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40a is nothing. 60a is a bit harder than stock
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 02:53 AM
  #320  
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I see, so basically the main mounts that have to be filled are the front and side just by reading from page 1 to now. Correct?
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