motor is back in. off to tune!

 

Got 4 of the 5 in on saturday. Waiting to do the rear mount. It was hot as hell here saturday and I couldn't stay outside much longer. It doesn't rattle or vibrate alot, but it's noticeably more then stock. I like it. Clutch engagement, acceleration, braking and even gas mileage is now improved. I've got about 300 miles on since I put them in. I can't wait to get the rear in. I think that would make the biggest difference.

 

How does this compare to:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/polyurethane-motor-mounts-w-pictures-479527/

?

Really wanna do this, got new replacement mounts sitting right next to me.

 

i started with Jeremy's how to. then i ended up finding this poly online and going with it. the roofing poly is basically a substitution for the real thing.it is basically the same method, just a different substance.

 

You think it will have similar results? i just spent 350 on my 3 montor mounts with lifetime warranty, don't really want to spend another 80 for poly lol...

 

It's just "Jeremy" doesn't fill them inside the rubber he just covered them all around, where ever he could. Wouldn't that put more pressure on the rubber itself causing it to rip/ break alot faster?

 

No i don't think so. The center pin flexes the rubber into the air spaces under load. with the air gaps being filled with poly it will slightly reduce the amount that the rubber can flex. i went a step further by cutting out and filling the entire mount. this way the center pin does not even flex against the soft rubber, its load is directly on the poly.

note on the rear 6mt mount i did not cut out any rubber. i just filled the gaps.

 

I'll try Jeremy's way just because of the cost... Altho still deciding.. what to do what to do


Great project dude! This will for sure save ppl $ on mounts replacement!

Did you put some serious miles on this yet?

 

I have put a couple of hundred miles on mine and the vibration had slightly went away but the car still drives great. A far superior product than stock and I will do it all over again. I think 60a poly is the way to go but thats my

 

I still need to swap in my rear mount, but it seems as though I won't be able to this weekend. Hopefully next weekend.

 

whos got the 80A poly filled mounts? hows the rides, and vibration.

 

That would be me!

I have only 4 of the 5 in so far, the rear isnt in yet. There is a noticeable amount of vibration at idle. Driving though is pretty normal. Ill update once I put the rear in. I may find some time sunday to do it.

 

This thread is great! Much thanks to Jproy and distortedoldskool!

 

Any update on the 80a?
I'm looking to do this but wondering if i should do it to new OEM mounts.
And since i doubt innovative will take my mounts back, Anyone know what the scrap price of these would be?

 

80A here:

I still havent gotten the rear mount in

Ive been working 60+ hour weeks and no time off on weekends so I dont have the time to do it. With the other 4 mounts installed there is a noticeable amount of vibrations at idle. I assume doing the rear mount will make it worse. When you turn the AC on you definately notice it. Its not something that annoys me though. Once driving it feels just like stock, just without the wheel hop.

 

60+ hours, ouch. One of my friends is pulling one of those months, haven't seen him drink too much yet.
Back on subject: So should i just put in the new OEM as is or with 60a or 80a(its cheaper atm).

 

I read all the posts on this thread and got some good info but am still not sure what to do with a busted front mount I would like to just use the broken front mount I have but how would I do this properly?

 

2fast: I sent you a PM.

Sentinel: My job is always like this If you have the time I'd suggest filling them with poly. What durometer is up to you though. I like my 80a but I came from a rock hard Civic, so Im used to the vibrations. Other members have used the 60a with great results. If you want something smooth Id suggest the 60a.

 

I like the 60A personally with because of the minumum cabin vibration with the A/C on. Upi to you. 80A will be harder and have more cabin vibration.

 

x2. Once the A/C is on at idle, you feel it.

 

i thought id mention it was suggested a million years ago to control wheel hop the radius rod bushings should be swapped out with poly ...

 

Yup, poly radius rod bushings do wonders. Do the bushings from an Accord fit?

I replaced the front crossmember in my Civic that used heim joints instead of bushings. It completely transformed the car.

 

pic of what bushing u guys are talking about?

 

Un momento

 

#10 and 11.

EDIT: The 98-02 Accord use the same bushing, now to find a company that makes them.

 

so polly fill those too???

 

from what i remember these can't be filled. they are that crap rubber and should be replaced with actual poly bushings.

 

http://www.mckinneyraceworks.com/cat...products_id=32

i'm pretty sure energy sells some poly bushing that would work

 

I sent ES an email a few minutes ago. They dont have anything available for the Accord or the TL/CL. A quick cross reference of the Honda part # showed that only the Accord used the same bushing, but Im sure other models use it as well. Ill keep looking into this, as I still have a slight bit of hop in first gear under certain circumstances.

EDIT: The bushing for the Prelude fits the Accord/CL/TL?

EDIT 2:I think the Prelude bushings do in fact fit.

EDIT 3:No definative answer on the Prelude bushing. Dammit.

 

they cant be hard to modify

 

Im going to look at a few other drop in methods for those bushings, as those definately curtail alot of wheel hop. I love me some spherical bushings, but I don't love modifying them.

 

Anyone have any suggestions to poly filling the TL rear mount. The CL doesn't really compare in pics.

 

here are the rest

need anymore pics?

 

same thing, cut a hole and drain the fluid. fill it

 

would it be alright to just fill the front and side mounts with poly?

 

hey guys. i got a brand new 6 speed rear mount that im letting go for 110 shipped OBO. thought id chime in for you guys. also got a side mount that has a bent bracket (easily fixable) for 30 bucks shipped.

pm me.

 

whoa whoa. that mount is similar to the front mount and should not be drilled and drained. i'll take a look at those pics tonight and see. i'm thinking something very similar to what we did to the front mount, detailed in my awesome MS paint sketch.

i know someone PM'd me about the mounts and ill get to that later this evening. work has been pwn'n me.

post a link to the larger pictures (the first set-last picture is a great one) and one top view. i will sketch on them in pshop tonight and repost them. basically the same as the front mount. i am not sure if that mount had the shield like cap on it similar to the front mount. any idea?

 

unfortunately i can't post/get to the pics at work, I'll put up the link as soon as i can, there seems to only be the dust cap pictured in the 2nd group last pic.

 

I think you could tape off the sides to create a seal and then fill it like the front mount.

 

This is just damn genius!!!!

I am also in contact with them. They sell the LCA bearing replacements for the bushings for the 2002 Accord which is a direct fit replacement for our car, TL or CL.

I have also cross referenced all the part numbers for the radius rod bearing parts between the two cars and all of the first 5 digits are the same.

Prelude,
front bushing 51381-SM4-013
rear bushing 51391-SM4-013
disk washers 51399-SM4-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same

TL/CL
front bushing 51381-S84-A01
rear bushing 51391-S84-A01
disk washers 51399-SOA-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same

Even the radius rods have the same first 5 digits.

If I cant reach them I may just order a set and see what happens to the caster. They would work for sure but you may have to shim the radius rod to achieve the correct caster which would not be difficult. I have done it before. It would just take a steel collar sized to the correct length.

There was a thread here about what the first 5 digits meant, the second 3 digits, and the third 3 digits. Who wants to find it?

What a great mod this would be! I bet it would altogether eliminate the wheel hop.