Custom Poly Engine Mounts
First 5 digits are the product class (oil filters, timing belts, and so on), middle 3 are product code it was ORIGINALLY developed for (SH3 = 3 door 88-91 Civic, SH2 = 88-91 CRX and so on), the last three are basically the version of the part or the supplier (first gen parts are usually 000, new revesions result in new numbers).
If those spherical bushings work I wonder if would could organize a group buy for them. $105 is alittle steep, Id be willing to do it if they were $90 or so shipped.
If those spherical bushings work I wonder if would could organize a group buy for them. $105 is alittle steep, Id be willing to do it if they were $90 or so shipped.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 48
From: Port Richey, FL
This is just damn genius!!!!
I am also in contact with them. They sell the LCA bearing replacements for the bushings for the 2002 Accord which is a direct fit replacement for our car, TL or CL.
I have also cross referenced all the part numbers for the radius rod bearing parts between the two cars and all of the first 5 digits are the same.
Prelude,
front bushing 51381-SM4-013
rear bushing 51391-SM4-013
disk washers 51399-SM4-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
TL/CL
front bushing 51381-S84-A01
rear bushing 51391-S84-A01
disk washers 51399-SOA-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
Even the radius rods have the same first 5 digits.
If I cant reach them I may just order a set and see what happens to the caster. They would work for sure but you may have to shim the radius rod to achieve the correct caster which would not be difficult. I have done it before. It would just take a steel collar sized to the correct length.
There was a thread here about what the first 5 digits meant, the second 3 digits, and the third 3 digits. Who wants to find it?
What a great mod this would be! I bet it would altogether eliminate the wheel hop.
I am also in contact with them. They sell the LCA bearing replacements for the bushings for the 2002 Accord which is a direct fit replacement for our car, TL or CL.
I have also cross referenced all the part numbers for the radius rod bearing parts between the two cars and all of the first 5 digits are the same.
Prelude,
front bushing 51381-SM4-013
rear bushing 51391-SM4-013
disk washers 51399-SM4-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
TL/CL
front bushing 51381-S84-A01
rear bushing 51391-S84-A01
disk washers 51399-SOA-000
bolt 90303-SF1-003 it is the same
Even the radius rods have the same first 5 digits.
If I cant reach them I may just order a set and see what happens to the caster. They would work for sure but you may have to shim the radius rod to achieve the correct caster which would not be difficult. I have done it before. It would just take a steel collar sized to the correct length.
There was a thread here about what the first 5 digits meant, the second 3 digits, and the third 3 digits. Who wants to find it?
What a great mod this would be! I bet it would altogether eliminate the wheel hop.
You fill at the top, and tape everything else 
The side and rear mounts are the easiest. Just tape off one side completely so nothing can pass through, then slowly pour in the poly from the opposite side. Then walk away. Come back in 7 days.
The front is trickier. I taped off the bottom of the mount which turned out to be a mistake, as I made a huge mess because the poly leaked from one small crack that I missed. If I were to do it again, I'd turn the mount upside down and fill it from the bottom. If I can't sell my old mounts I may re-do the front and side, as that arent that neat looking.
Speaking of which, I have my old mounts listed in the BM:
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/2003-cl-s-6mt-motor-mounts-727747/
Thats great for those of you who have the CL as a daily and can't wait for the poly to cure to put your mounts back in.
The side and rear mounts are the easiest. Just tape off one side completely so nothing can pass through, then slowly pour in the poly from the opposite side. Then walk away. Come back in 7 days.
The front is trickier. I taped off the bottom of the mount which turned out to be a mistake, as I made a huge mess because the poly leaked from one small crack that I missed. If I were to do it again, I'd turn the mount upside down and fill it from the bottom. If I can't sell my old mounts I may re-do the front and side, as that arent that neat looking.
Speaking of which, I have my old mounts listed in the BM:
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/2003-cl-s-6mt-motor-mounts-727747/
Thats great for those of you who have the CL as a daily and can't wait for the poly to cure to put your mounts back in.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Whittier Area, CA, USA
Link to the album, hopefully it will tke you otherwise i'll be back maybe 12noon PT
http://picasaweb.google.com/rtgarcia...eat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/rtgarcia...eat=directlink
i bet it would. since the poly would be in a wedge shape when to motor pressed down the poly would slide out. even my rear mount has a little pop out bulge on it.
i have 60a poly urethane for sale if anyone needs..
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/01-cl-02-tl-complete-part-out-total-loss-accident-726070/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/01-cl-02-tl-complete-part-out-total-loss-accident-726070/
i think so. chtrcy has his front and side completed. wheel hop is very minimal and i know he is happy. those pictures saved me from having to remove his rear auto mount to look at how i was going to pour them. thanks!
i could see where it would put a little more stress on the front mount, not having the rear mount reinforced.
i could see where it would put a little more stress on the front mount, not having the rear mount reinforced.
MP90 uninstalled
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 2
From: Lafayette, LA
For that rear mount on the auto I would use 80A all the way around. The doughnut you create should hold it in place and the 80A will make up for the smaller surface area of compression under that smaller plate, only two sides of it will be compressed. The other way to do it is to get the top plate from an old or blown front mount and just put it in place of the rectangular shaped plate from the stock rear auto mount. The poly will stay and if it doesn’t going to a slightly harder compound will eventually keep it in place. You just need to make sure you go all the way around the mount so the doughnut formed by the poly will keep itself from squeezing out.
For that rear mount on the auto I would use 80A all the way around. The doughnut you create should hold it in place and the 80A will make up for the smaller surface area of compression under that smaller plate, only two sides of it will be compressed. The other way to do it is to get the top plate from an old or blown front mount and just put it in place of the rectangular shaped plate from the stock rear auto mount. The poly will stay and if it doesn’t going to a slightly harder compound will eventually keep it in place. You just need to make sure you go all the way around the mount so the doughnut formed by the poly will keep itself from squeezing out.
So I went to home depot and got some of this for 4.49 a tube got 2 of them
its says it is 60a on the tube and is 100% poly
Will this stuff work fine?
Im planning on doing it this weekend
its says it is 60a on the tube and is 100% poly
Will this stuff work fine?
Im planning on doing it this weekend
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn, NY
i used that. i have it right now..., filling is better..
i used it all over the front mount and alot of it just got pushed outside.. side seems to be holding up ok. and rear i can't see well lol. This wouldn't do anything "bad" just not as good as using liquid poly and filling everything on the inside.
So yes it will work,
also if u planing to do 3 motor mounts get two tubes.
i used it all over the front mount and alot of it just got pushed outside.. side seems to be holding up ok. and rear i can't see well lol. This wouldn't do anything "bad" just not as good as using liquid poly and filling everything on the inside.
So yes it will work,
also if u planing to do 3 motor mounts get two tubes.
the 6 speed mount is completely different. i have posted pictures of it before in this thread.
also that caulk is not the same at the liquid poly. you will have plenty of air gaps and i also be the final product will not be anywhere as stiff. but to each his own. i got the poly idea from guys that have used that caulk before (cleancl).
also that caulk is not the same at the liquid poly. you will have plenty of air gaps and i also be the final product will not be anywhere as stiff. but to each his own. i got the poly idea from guys that have used that caulk before (cleancl).
Got my new rear mount in finally. Never again will I do that. It was hell.
But the test drive was worth it. Engaging gears feels so much better. Braking feels so much better. Ive lost that slight vibration on the highway.
The engine doesnt vibrate that much in the cabin, at least by my standards. Once the a/c is on though, you notice it. But just like prior to installing the rear mount, once you start driving it feels like stock.
But the test drive was worth it. Engaging gears feels so much better. Braking feels so much better. Ive lost that slight vibration on the highway.
The engine doesnt vibrate that much in the cabin, at least by my standards. Once the a/c is on though, you notice it. But just like prior to installing the rear mount, once you start driving it feels like stock.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 48
From: Port Richey, FL
Senior Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 48
From: Port Richey, FL
if you wrer standing in front of car looking at engine bay lower right on sub frame about 5 inches square maybe 2 inches wide side by side with a slight space between them allows you to slide rear mount in n out from top of engine instead of from underneath
The worst part about it was a tripped over the floor jack and put my hands out to stop the fall and landed on my bumper. I had the motor mount bolt in my hand.
Luckily the scratches can be buffed out.The second worst part was the heat. It was about 90* sunday and extremely humid.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,588
Likes: 48
From: Port Richey, FL
Thats how I did it. I unbolted the rear torque damper and slid the mount out. It was still a pain in the ass because once I got the mount bolted to the rear crossmember the motor mount bolt wouldnt line up, and vice versa. I finally got it though.
The worst part about it was a tripped over the floor jack and put my hands out to stop the fall and landed on my bumper. I had the motor mount bolt in my hand. Luckily the scratches can be buffed out.
The second worst part was the heat. It was about 90* sunday and extremely humid.
The worst part about it was a tripped over the floor jack and put my hands out to stop the fall and landed on my bumper. I had the motor mount bolt in my hand.
Luckily the scratches can be buffed out.The second worst part was the heat. It was about 90* sunday and extremely humid.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 235
Likes: 4
From: Austin, Texas
Just a update on my 03 auto....I have about 1500 miles on my mounts and no problems what so ever. Its hot in Texas at the moment and the vibrations on the cabin have decreased a bit with the A/C on. They still feel strong and I am completely happy spending the $66.00 for the 2 pounds of poly. I have the side and front done and haven't done the rear yet but should be able to soon when Kevin (distortedolskool's) comes back in town.
I would highly recommend buying the good stuff and doing it right the first time.
I would highly recommend buying the good stuff and doing it right the first time.
Just an update on mine as well. Ive put alittle more than 1k miles on the rear mount (and more than 3k on the others). With the A/C off the car is near stock. There is a slight bit of vibrations, not much, but the things in my center console rattle. When the A/C is on though the vibrations get much more pronounced. The grill will rattle. It is loud. Once you start driving though its back to normal.
Overall I love this mod. I have yet to reinstall the rear torque damper, as I lost one of the bolts somehow. Hopefully I can get it back in sometime this week before my roadtrip next weekend.
Overall I love this mod. I have yet to reinstall the rear torque damper, as I lost one of the bolts somehow. Hopefully I can get it back in sometime this week before my roadtrip next weekend.
i'd make the same assumption but these two diagrams are making me wonder
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
looks like the auto has two bolts and the mt has 4?
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
looks like the auto has two bolts and the mt has 4?
Lead Footed
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,415
Likes: 15
From: Plano - Texas
In short, stabilize the front and side and the rears will hold up. Since your rear is ruptured, you can simply inject some poly into it and you'll be fine . . until we finally get some quality after market mounts or if you can just run poly modded OEM and it sounds like those are holding up as well.
Ruf
im just wondering if i got front mount gone should i ordered rear one too what is a chance that i have both gone ? i think im gonna go poly filed with brand new ones or maybe somebody have used ones for sale
Lead Footed
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,415
Likes: 15
From: Plano - Texas
Ruf