The following are upgrades, listed in order of importance, that I intend to purchase shortly for my 2001 San Marino Red CL-S - that I determined by reading this excellent forum, TireRack.com, etc.:
Note: Reducing weight is a priority that drives selections.

1. Goodyear F1 GS-D3 tires 225/40-18 (Max summer performance - see TireRack & Consumer Reports - really). The TireRack recommended size of 225/45-18 not available, in general, but my size selection is only 1-1/2 percent smaller than stock diameter / circumference and available for $182. The All Season Michelin OEM tires / wheels will be used in winter.
2. Shuk W21 2-pc Wheel - 18" x 7.5" & 20.7 lbs. Strongly considered Kazera KZ-U (18 x 7 - 18.5 lbs) but liked aesthetics of Shuks' better - high gloss satin finish, etc. Believe the stock wheels weigh something like 27 lbs and are 17" x 7".
3. H&R Sport Springs (50103). Concluded that ride would not degrade much, but handling would improve substantially, after extensive reading - particularly at the TireRack site. Did not like the idea of reverse rake from 51858 springs. Also, remember when you are sitting in the car it might have a different set. See eBay.
4. Comptech Titanium Strut Bar. Titanium is often stiffer for a given weight. Had excellent experience with strut bars in the past and believe they are under rated. Prices on eBay good.
5. Tokico Illumina shocks (white - adjustable). eBay again. Concluded Koni yellows not worth the price premium and Tokicos better than KYB AGXs, which do not react well to adjustments.
6. XS Power Headers - stainless. This is most risky, because not many people have them, but they are so inexpensive on the internet and they seem high quality. All the headers save weight over OEM cast iron exhaust.
7. KN filter element - RU 2590. Better gas mileage and throttle response.
8. Comptech Icebox induction. Am hoping for better throttle response. eBay.

Seriously considering purchasing the following:
1. Cusco lower strut brace - made of aluminum. Noticed in reading / pictures that it protected headers when lowered car bottomed out.
2. Muteki Wheel Lugs - half the weight of conventional. Anyone know of alternatives?
3. Are Red Optima batteries lower in weight than conventional? Also possible to set on side to reduce car center of gravity, but would need to clamp it down.
4. Denso IK20 spark plugs.

Please provide feedback.
I will put together a note describing my experience after everything is installed.

 

I had the Goodyear F1-GS-D3 Tires on my old Camaro. Great tires in terms of wet/dry traction and noise. To keep the tire/wheel diameter the same.... I would go with 235/40/18.

What is the offset for the wheels... You should go with about +48 to avoid rubbing issues when lowering

 

Welcome to the forum...

I'm in agreement with everything 'cept for the springs... I've never seen the reverse rake...

LH has the 51858 on his CL and it looks ok to me...

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=51858

You didn't list a location, but up here in New England we have to watch out for how low we go with potholes, etc...

 

i personally feel you shouldnt waste your money on the comptech strut bar or lower brace. i would save those for last and put the money towards better mods. remember we already have a strut bar.

 

Thanks, Greenie!

Yeah, I have them and the rake is not "reverse" at all. It's quite the opposite. The front sits a hair lower than the rear. It sits quite nicely IMHO.

BTW, click my username for more pics.

 

Crank Pulley is a decent to start mod and it's a decent value

 

That's what I had before I got coilovers. I loved the drop so much I set my coilovers to mimic it, just a slight bit lower. Pics are below when I had my 51858's installed.

I would definately get the headers and intake first. And maybe spacers.

 

another weight saver is getting a bbk. imo their the best mod that i have done on this car. When i was replacing the rotor, i noticed how much lighter and bigger they are compare to the stock ones. Another thing, handling was also improved, i guess it s from the lighter weight. O and they stop like mad. Very happy with them

 

Trade out the strut bar for sway bars.

 

The offset on the Shuk W21 wheels is +48mm, per Tire Rack rep. The rep also said that 235/40-18s tires would need an 8 inch wide wheel, and I did not want to add any more unsprung weight, so I went with the 225/40-18s. They are only 1.5 % less in diameter / circumference than stock.

 

Those tires are sweet. Definitely worth the price. They rarely squeal when skidding and burning out, and have great traction.

 

Sorry if I misunderstood the affect of the 51858 H&R sport springs; but the "reverse set issue" was discussed on multiple previous threads. I am still inclined to get the 50103 springs (for the TL) because other CL owners in this forum have used them successfully and some of the previous threads suggest they may have less drop (and less stiffness) in the rear than the 51858 springs (for the V6 Accord). However, not absolutely sure I know the true differences.

GreenMonster: I live in northern Virginia, so the roads are not as broken up as they are in climates with more freeze thaw cycles, so lowering car should be less of an issue.

 

It is true that a strut bar is already included stock; however, believe the Comptech titanium bar connects to the top of the struts themselves and is lighter weight (only 2 lbs). Greater stiffness and lighter weight over the front wheels is very important to handling.

Do you have direct experience with and without strut bar? It made a huge difference in a previous car that I had. I am less committed to the lower strut bar.

 

Help me with what spacers are?
By the way, great wheels.

Sorry if I misunderstood the affect of the 51858 H&R sport springs; but the "reverse set issue" was discussed on multiple previous threads. I am still inclined to get the 50103 springs (for the TL) because other CL owners in this forum have used them successfully and some of the previous threads suggest they may have less drop (and less stiffness) in the rear than the 51858 springs (for the V6 Accord). However, not absolutely sure I know the true differences.

 

[QUOTE=Danandale]Sorry if I misunderstood the affect of the 51858 H&R sport springs; but the "reverse set issue" was discussed on multiple previous threads. I am still inclined to get the 50103 springs (for the TL) because other CL owners in this forum have used them successfully and some of the previous threads suggest they may have less drop (and less stiffness) in the rear than the 51858 springs (for the V6 Accord). However, not absolutely sure I know the true differences.

hey Danandale, check out my pics in the other forum if you need a better idea of what 50103's look like. I to debated for weeks on which H&R springs to get, in the end the shop that installed everything said more CL owns were happy with the 50103's then the other ones. I guess it's a matter of opinion, I like the raked look of the 50103's

 

Do you know how much weight is saved with the Rotora BBK vs. stock?

Also, has anyone used the Muteki Wheel Lugs? The ad says they are 0.9 ounces per lug vs. 2.1 ounces per stock lug - which adds up when you consider 5 lugs per wheel x 4 wheels. Of course reducing unsprung weight and rotational inertia is a priority.

 

[QUOTE=DutchCLS] Thanks, this is just the kind of feedback that I need. Do you have any issues with bottoming out or ride harshness with your setup?

 

The suspenion is a little bit stiffer than stock, but the added handling abilities more than makes up for a bit of lost comfort. Never any issues with bottoming out.

 

I think you should get the CAI first...best sound and HP for the money.
Its up to you with the Ice Box or CAI but the CAI impressed me the most out of all my mods... (tires, rims, headers, axel backs...etc...)

 

Thanks, hope the new owner of those wheels love them as much as I did.

As for the spacers, read below. They are really easy to install and a lot of members have had good things to say about them. I thought is was a good help. It really helped to keep the intake manifold cooler.

Thermoblok Spacers

 

our strut bar not only connect both top mounts but also connects to the firewall. imo, a pretty good design. i'm not saying the CT one is not a good mod, but i would pass it up on my first round of mods.

btw, i have a thread on the BBK where i weighed everything. it comes out to roughly 3 lbs lighter per wheel.

 

Just ordered the Comptech Icebox on Ebay for $260 including shipping. Apparently it is less noisy than the alternatives and about as effective.