JTso's UR underdrive pulleys installation
that is some hardcore stuff
11-29-2006, 01:15 PM
#246
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Originally Posted by hrj_1985
thats actually a brilliant one. i was very surprised when it worked.
JTso is very creative, never gave up and determined not to be beaten by just a car haha.
JTso is very creative, never gave up and determined not to be beaten by just a car haha.
01-05-2007, 02:18 AM
#248
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Looking at the installation pictures again it does look like the stock crank pulley has some sort of a damper on it. Instead of 1 solid iron pulley, there's many layers of sandwiched plastic from what i can see. Although the K series engine is supposed internally balanced, I wonder if the crank pulley is used instead for dampening the vibrations from the crankshaft.
JTSO, didn't you install the Integra crank pulley on your car? What is your experience with it so far?
JTSO, didn't you install the Integra crank pulley on your car? What is your experience with it so far?
01-05-2007, 08:18 AM
#249
Originally Posted by outersquare
did any of you guys ever get your oil analyzed
01-05-2007, 12:22 PM
#250
Originally Posted by sodazman
Looking at the installation pictures again it does look like the stock crank pulley has some sort of a damper on it. Instead of 1 solid iron pulley, there's many layers of sandwiched plastic from what i can see. Although the K series engine is supposed internally balanced, I wonder if the crank pulley is used instead for dampening the vibrations from the crankshaft.
JTSO, didn't you install the Integra crank pulley on your car? What is your experience with it so far?
JTSO, didn't you install the Integra crank pulley on your car? What is your experience with it so far?
The PRC/ITR pulley that I installed is working just fine. I don't have any dyno numbers yet to compare the outputs between the two pulleys.
01-05-2007, 10:24 PM
#252
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Originally Posted by JTso
The stock style pulley has an elastomer band (not many layers) whereas the UR pulley doesn't. The elastomer band is not for for balancing the crank as it's simply too small and won't be effective. However, it seems to provide a slight noise dampering from the drive belt and connecting accessories. I have a recording of the before and after sound samples but have yet to find a good way to verify the sound level differences (like a software program to indicate db level). But I tend to notice the difference inside the car, possibly due to the ETD setup connecting the engine mount to the chassis. I guess the interior sound difference can be compared to a tire with tall sidewall and another tire with slightly shorter sidewall.
The PRC/ITR pulley that I installed is working just fine. I don't have any dyno numbers yet to compare the outputs between the two pulleys.
The PRC/ITR pulley that I installed is working just fine. I don't have any dyno numbers yet to compare the outputs between the two pulleys.
Where did you get the PRC/ITR pulley btw? How much did it cost you? In terms of power and revving speed (butt dyno of course), does it perform about the same as the UR pulley in your opinion?
01-07-2007, 02:40 AM
#253
You can get the pulley from Acura dealers. Keep in mind I'm also using the UR alternator and power steering pulleys as part of the test. If everything being equal, the ITR pulley alone will not perform better than the UR pulley due to size and weight. Sorry, I don't like butt dyno as it's not a good representation of the actual results.
01-07-2007, 03:18 AM
#254
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Hey Reach,
Have your pulleys installed yet? I have those installed since summer and I'm satisfy w/ the result. The only dyno I have is when everything I have installed, not just the pulleys. But from butt dyno, it felt similar of having "Header + High-flow Cat" installed. Not totally day and night different, but definity you can feel it rev faster. Hope you enjoy.
Have your pulleys installed yet? I have those installed since summer and I'm satisfy w/ the result. The only dyno I have is when everything I have installed, not just the pulleys. But from butt dyno, it felt similar of having "Header + High-flow Cat" installed. Not totally day and night different, but definity you can feel it rev faster. Hope you enjoy.
01-07-2007, 12:43 PM
#255
Senior Moderator
Yes, I installed them in October, I'd also say I'm satisfied with the result. I don't have a dyno either, but I did have the butt dyno satisfaction after installing it, and I'd say more so than when I did the header/rt cat combo (but that was also before Hondata).
I also checked my voltages before and after. Pre-install I was running 14.4v no problem with most accessories on, including lights, stereo, and a radar detector. Post-pulleys I'm hovering around 14.0 with the same conditions, but even adding my sub hitting, playing playstation on navi, and seat heaters on it doesn't dip below 13v often and never below 12.5, and that's my extreme use case. I'm satisfied that these pulleys aren't underdriving the alternator too much and won't be causing any electrical issues.
I also checked my voltages before and after. Pre-install I was running 14.4v no problem with most accessories on, including lights, stereo, and a radar detector. Post-pulleys I'm hovering around 14.0 with the same conditions, but even adding my sub hitting, playing playstation on navi, and seat heaters on it doesn't dip below 13v often and never below 12.5, and that's my extreme use case. I'm satisfied that these pulleys aren't underdriving the alternator too much and won't be causing any electrical issues.
01-08-2007, 03:00 AM
#256
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Originally Posted by JTso
You can get the pulley from Acura dealers. Keep in mind I'm also using the UR alternator and power steering pulleys as part of the test. If everything being equal, the ITR pulley alone will not perform better than the UR pulley due to size and weight. Sorry, I don't like butt dyno as it's not a good representation of the actual results.
Instead, it's designed to dampen minor vibrations from crank to pulley system and vice versa, which explains why it's quieter with the stock pulley.
BTW, I've ordered the pulleys. Will post impressions when they are installed.
03-01-2007, 02:43 PM
#261
Instructor
after install the pulleys does your HID dimmer then before? people with big sound system can't use the pulley right? even with the k070683 belt did the electrical running at OEM specs?
03-01-2007, 04:07 PM
#262
mmmmmm....
Originally Posted by faboloso
okay guys, i ordered them set of 3; crank, alternator, ps
just a noob question first. do i need to buy a belt for all 3 or just the crank pulley?
set of 3; crank, alternator, psjust a noob question first. do i need to buy a belt for all 3 or just the crank pulley?
03-01-2007, 04:08 PM
#263
mmmmmm....
Originally Posted by vt4lifecuf
after install the pulleys does your HID dimmer then before? people with big sound system can't use the pulley right? even with the k070683 belt did the electrical running at OEM specs?
03-02-2007, 09:06 AM
#265
Instructor
Originally Posted by Reach
Yes, I installed them in October, I'd also say I'm satisfied with the result. I don't have a dyno either, but I did have the butt dyno satisfaction after installing it, and I'd say more so than when I did the header/rt cat combo (but that was also before Hondata).
I also checked my voltages before and after. Pre-install I was running 14.4v no problem with most accessories on, including lights, stereo, and a radar detector. Post-pulleys I'm hovering around 14.0 with the same conditions, but even adding my sub hitting, playing playstation on navi, and seat heaters on it doesn't dip below 13v often and never below 12.5, and that's my extreme use case. I'm satisfied that these pulleys aren't underdriving the alternator too much and won't be causing any electrical issues.
I also checked my voltages before and after. Pre-install I was running 14.4v no problem with most accessories on, including lights, stereo, and a radar detector. Post-pulleys I'm hovering around 14.0 with the same conditions, but even adding my sub hitting, playing playstation on navi, and seat heaters on it doesn't dip below 13v often and never below 12.5, and that's my extreme use case. I'm satisfied that these pulleys aren't underdriving the alternator too much and won't be causing any electrical issues.
thanks for the information
03-27-2007, 03:32 PM
#267
^^
Nothing is changed on the water pump except it's moving slightly slower due to the smaller crank pulley. The water pump rotates fast enough to circulate the cooling system during idle. Additionally, the thermostat regulates the flow so any increased flow will simply exit through the cooling bypass port anyway.
Nothing is changed on the water pump except it's moving slightly slower due to the smaller crank pulley. The water pump rotates fast enough to circulate the cooling system during idle. Additionally, the thermostat regulates the flow so any increased flow will simply exit through the cooling bypass port anyway.
04-30-2007, 10:19 PM
#268
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i don't know if this has been posted already but one of the guys i work with(mechanic) said i can take the bolt for the pulley off by putting a socket on the bolt, setting up a breaker bar to hold it in place and crank the motor. also said be sure to disable the fuel pump. anyone know how to disable the fuel pump? i know it's probably a fuse somewhere under the hood; just don't know where.
how much does the oem crank pulley way anyways? 9lbs(read it somewhere a while ago)
how much does the oem crank pulley way anyways? 9lbs(read it somewhere a while ago)
07-30-2007, 05:29 PM
#270
I have done the UR pulley kit installation on a number of different K series engines, but I had to do a set on a TSX today. So I figured I would just refresh my memory on the installation. I would just like to say thank you to JTso for such a comprehensive installation guide. I already had done this install before as I said but the instructions were spot on and helped me to remember.
10-07-2007, 05:32 PM
#271
Well, unfortunately I wasn't as lucky as everyone else with the install. I went to remove the crank pulley with a 19mm deep socket and an 18" or 24" breaker bar. Had the gf toss the car into 5th and 6th and apply the brake. I turned the breaker bar and the pulley moved along with it. We tried it about 4 or 5 times and nothing came of it, besides me getting more frustrated and ready to rip off the damn pulley with my bare hands. 
If anyone has some advice as to getting this thing off, please I am open to suggestions. I can't see spending $250 to have them installed at a shop. 
If anyone has some advice as to getting this thing off, please I am open to suggestions. I can't see spending $250 to have them installed at a shop.
10-08-2007, 10:56 AM
#273
Originally Posted by KingTSX
Well, unfortunately I wasn't as lucky as everyone else with the install. I went to remove the crank pulley with a 19mm deep socket and an 18" or 24" breaker bar. Had the gf toss the car into 5th and 6th and apply the brake. I turned the breaker bar and the pulley moved along with it. We tried it about 4 or 5 times and nothing came of it, besides me getting more frustrated and ready to rip off the damn pulley with my bare hands. If anyone has some advice as to getting this thing off, please I am open to suggestions. I can't see spending $250 to have them installed at a shop.
If anyone has some advice as to getting this thing off, please I am open to suggestions. I can't see spending $250 to have them installed at a shop.
10-13-2007, 12:43 PM
#275
Well, now I am starting to get pissed. Got the mororso crank pulley tool from a buddy of mine, then tossed on a 6point 19mm deep socket with a 18" breaker bar attached and extension on the handle to give more torque on it. I was going counterclockwise, logically, and broke an adapter in the process. Should it be this damn hard to remove the bolt? I am starting to think i am a moron and should just bring it in and grab my ankles for the cost. 
10-13-2007, 05:24 PM
#276
Originally Posted by KingTSX
Well, now I am starting to get pissed. Got the mororso crank pulley tool from a buddy of mine, then tossed on a 6point 19mm deep socket with a 18" breaker bar attached and extension on the handle to give more torque on it. I was going counterclockwise, logically, and broke an adapter in the process. Should it be this damn hard to remove the bolt? I am starting to think i am a moron and should just bring it in and grab my ankles for the cost.
10-13-2007, 05:40 PM
#277
Hmmmmm, I am going to try that Josh, hopefully it works, I popped off the PS pulley and now working on the alternator..I acutually took the alternator off the car to make it easier to remove and install...the crank pulley will be last, figured I would build myself back into the crank pulley. I am bound to get that biaatch off
10-13-2007, 09:29 PM
#279
Which adapter did you break? You should put the socket straight onto your breaker bar without using any adapters since you already have a deep socket.
I guess it isn't as deep as some of the other sockets I have. And in this case, not as deep as I need it. So, I added a short maybe 2 or 3" (1/2" drive) adapter and still no luck. Maybe I have the toughest crank pulley bolt known to man. I am giving it every last bit of strength that I have along with a long wrench on the end of the breaker bar to offer more leverage. I have the car jacked up high and I am jacking it up from the jack point on the passenger side of the car, in hopes that the use of the pulley tool and the driver side being on the ground would hold it relatively still so I can crank the hell out of the bolt.
