JTso's UR underdrive pulleys installation
10-14-2007, 07:06 PM
#282
Get a Craftsman 1/2" drive 19mm 6-pt impact deep socket (thick wall) and don't use any extension adapter.
Only good news is I installed the alt and ps pullies successfully 
Anyone successfully turn the engine over to break the bolt loose?
10-14-2007, 11:05 PM
#283
Well quick update...I found the secret weapon, it is none other than PB Blaster...stuff worked a damn miracle. I sprayed it on and off for about an hour and took a long screwdriver and hammer and tapped around the pulley, and crank bolt a bit. Gave it the old college try with a deep 19mm impact socket, as Jtso recommended, tossed on a 24" breaker bar and gave it hell. To my surprise I finally heard a loud creak, pop and it loosened. It was rusted all to hell. It was hard to believe being an 04', but I took some pics of it and the winning combo to get the job done. I will post pics later. Now it is time to sleep after a long weekend and headache...thanks for all the help 
10-16-2007, 09:49 PM
#284
Originally Posted by KingTSX
Well quick update...I found the secret weapon, it is none other than PB Blaster...stuff worked a damn miracle. I sprayed it on and off for about an hour and took a long screwdriver and hammer and tapped around the pulley, and crank bolt a bit. Gave it the old college try with a deep 19mm impact socket, as Jtso recommended, tossed on a 24" breaker bar and gave it hell. To my surprise I finally heard a loud creak, pop and it loosened. It was rusted all to hell. It was hard to believe being an 04', but I took some pics of it and the winning combo to get the job done. I will post pics later. Now it is time to sleep after a long weekend and headache...thanks for all the help
10-16-2007, 10:04 PM
#285
Driver/Detailer
Clean the rust off with WD40 on a rag, and then clean it off properly with degreaser (also on a rag). Don't let the WD40 or degreaser get on the seals or bearings. When you have swapped crank pulleys and tightened the bolt sufficiently, put a light coating of a grease of some sort around the nut to slow down the rusting.
11-16-2007, 03:34 PM
#288
where is my garage?!
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Originally Posted by lcrazyaznl
I had a shop do it made life easier...
just curious if any a-ziners encoutered engine problems, water pump failures, etc...since you guys should've had them on for about a year or more. a short period to gauge it by, but i was just wondering.
04-14-2008, 10:03 PM
#292
Someone stole "My Garage"
Hey JTso,
Where could I find this tool, and is it extremely useful or will the old serpentine belt + vise-grips work?
Also, would one absolutely require that Moroso crank pulley removal tool, or could a deep impact socket, a 1/2" drive (lifetime warranty!) ratchet, and a long-ass jack handle (to slip over the ratchet handle for leverage) work?
I got my wifes' crank pulley off of her Protege5 a few weeks ago this way, no problem, but it sounds like the TSX one is tighter for whatever reason.
Where could I find this tool, and is it extremely useful or will the old serpentine belt + vise-grips work?
Also, would one absolutely require that Moroso crank pulley removal tool, or could a deep impact socket, a 1/2" drive (lifetime warranty!) ratchet, and a long-ass jack handle (to slip over the ratchet handle for leverage) work?
I got my wifes' crank pulley off of her Protege5 a few weeks ago this way, no problem, but it sounds like the TSX one is tighter for whatever reason.
04-14-2008, 10:21 PM
#293
Someone stole "My Garage"
Actually I just found a pretty cool video demonstrating how to use the crank pulley removal tool...
So assuming you're working on a manual transmission car, it's definitely not necessary, but an automatic requires it to hold the crank stready. Cool.
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...pful_tips.html
So assuming you're working on a manual transmission car, it's definitely not necessary, but an automatic requires it to hold the crank stready. Cool.
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...pful_tips.html
04-25-2008, 07:53 AM
#294
where is my garage?!
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Originally Posted by JTso
Some quick updates after a couple of months of using the pulleys. I recently noticed some belt squeaks during idle. It goes away when the engine speeds up which is a sure sign of worn out belt, not enough tension or both.
Today I decided to replace the belt and here is what I found. The tensioner has moved close to the limit of adjustment. The belt is all worn out and stretched 8mm longer. The new belt corrected the noise problem. So, I would suggest replacing the belt when installing the pulleys. The old belt has 10K miles on it.
Old belt tension
New belt tension Note the indicator is in the middle of the adjustment range. Which means a new belt has only half the usable life when using with the pulleys.
Belt comparison The new belt has felt like material whereas the old belt is pretty worn out. In fact the pulleys were coated with black dust from the old belt.
Today I decided to replace the belt and here is what I found. The tensioner has moved close to the limit of adjustment. The belt is all worn out and stretched 8mm longer. The new belt corrected the noise problem. So, I would suggest replacing the belt when installing the pulleys. The old belt has 10K miles on it.
Old belt tension
New belt tension Note the indicator is in the middle of the adjustment range. Which means a new belt has only half the usable life when using with the pulleys.
Belt comparison The new belt has felt like material whereas the old belt is pretty worn out. In fact the pulleys were coated with black dust from the old belt.
hey, i noticed that at idle, i seem to be hearing some squeaking from the pulleys. i checked the tensioner position. it actually wasn't near the limit for adjustment. in fact, it was slightly past the divet in the 2nd pic for jtso's corrected tensioner position.
could that positioning be attributable to the squeaking (overtension?) i've been running these for a few months now, but never really noticed it until now.
04-25-2008, 11:05 PM
#296
^^
That's the OEM belt in the pics above. There's another post with an updated Gates belt which is slightly shorter and provides better belt tension.
Alternatively, you can use the Goodyear Gatorback belt which has a different belt patten and supposely, provides longer belt life.
That's the OEM belt in the pics above. There's another post with an updated Gates belt which is slightly shorter and provides better belt tension.
Alternatively, you can use the Goodyear Gatorback belt which has a different belt patten and supposely, provides longer belt life.
04-26-2008, 11:48 AM
#297
Someone stole "My Garage"
I did my pulley install today. All went very smoothly! The crank pulley bolt was a PITA but with my 1/2" drive, 17" long breaker bar plus 1/2 of my jack handle, I managed to get the bolt loose. The BANG when it comes loose REALLY makes you immediately think "what tool/socket just broke??!!" but alas, it is just the crank pulley bolt swearing at you for loosening it. 
One thing I noticed is that the new belt is not within the adjustment range. It's the specific one that UR recommends for the TSX in their updated instructions. The construction is exactly like the Gatorback one JTso posted recently. Mine is a Dayco brand.
Anyhow, when installing the belt, I had to put it around every pulley EXCEPT the tensioner, and then crank the tensioner as hard as I could and then slip the belt over the tensioner. Any other way and the lip/ridge on the PS pulley wouldn't allow the belt to get onto it. The tensioner doesn't have a lip so it worked well with my method.
This is JTso's picture from above. My belt when I finally got it on, made the tensioner arrow sit left of the end of the angled discolored line a bit to the left of the large raised rectangle. Once I started the car and ran it for 5 minutes, the tensioner was still just slightly to the left of the edge of the larger rectangle.
Does this mean that the new belt is too tight?? I assume it will stretch a bit in the first few miles, etc... but it didn't seem right to me. I'm driving 120km today so when I get back I will check it. Any comments though -- has anyone experienced this before w/ a new belt?
One thing I noticed is that the new belt is not within the adjustment range. It's the specific one that UR recommends for the TSX in their updated instructions. The construction is exactly like the Gatorback one JTso posted recently. Mine is a Dayco brand.
Anyhow, when installing the belt, I had to put it around every pulley EXCEPT the tensioner, and then crank the tensioner as hard as I could and then slip the belt over the tensioner. Any other way and the lip/ridge on the PS pulley wouldn't allow the belt to get onto it. The tensioner doesn't have a lip so it worked well with my method.
This is JTso's picture from above. My belt when I finally got it on, made the tensioner arrow sit left of the end of the angled discolored line a bit to the left of the large raised rectangle. Once I started the car and ran it for 5 minutes, the tensioner was still just slightly to the left of the edge of the larger rectangle.
Does this mean that the new belt is too tight?? I assume it will stretch a bit in the first few miles, etc... but it didn't seem right to me. I'm driving 120km today so when I get back I will check it. Any comments though -- has anyone experienced this before w/ a new belt?
04-27-2008, 07:21 AM
#298
Someone stole "My Garage"
OK never mind... the new belt obviously stretched enough because the indicator is just on the left edge of the rectangle -- now within range!
About the crank pulley bolt: I did it to 150 ft-lbs of torque and called that a day. Should I get in there with my breaker bar and extension and reef on it more to get it tighter, or should 150 be enough? With UR calling for 181 I figure 150 isn't too far off... ?
About the crank pulley bolt: I did it to 150 ft-lbs of torque and called that a day. Should I get in there with my breaker bar and extension and reef on it more to get it tighter, or should 150 be enough? With UR calling for 181 I figure 150 isn't too far off... ?
05-05-2009, 01:54 PM
#304
It doesn't really matter as the crank pulley install is independent of the other pulleys. Just make sure to remove the proper fuse before cranking the engine though. Remember, it only requires a quick click of the stater motor to loosen the bolt.
05-05-2009, 02:58 PM
#305
Burning Brakes
05-06-2009, 03:54 PM
#307
Moderator
OK so I just read through the whole thread today because I was considering the UR pulley set. Since my car has a lot of electronics going on, ie sound system with video, I don't think it would be wise to have the pulley go into underdrive.
My question is, are there pulleys out there that are the same diameter as our stock pulleys but with less weight?
My question is, are there pulleys out there that are the same diameter as our stock pulleys but with less weight?
05-06-2009, 04:07 PM
#308
^^i believe you can special order it from either UR or NST.
05-06-2009, 07:35 PM
#309
worked as described. Could NOT have removed by me self without. An ice-cold moosehead for you, pal!
What to do if nothing seems to work in removing the crank pulley bolt on the TSX?
Well, I have experienced the problem over the weekend trying to remove one on an AT, and the bolt simply won't budge. I happen to remember a method which I used on my Toyota long time ago so I decided to give it a try.
Here is what I did (Disclaimer: If you want to try this, you must fully understand the potential risk involve)
Note: the TSX engine rotates clockwise during cranking
1. Remove fuse #19 15A (fuel pump/ECM)
2. Turn the key to verify the engine wouldn't start
3. Attached a 19mm impact deep socket to a breaker bar and place the socket firmly onto the pulley bolt. Make sure the breaker bar is positioned at a good 90 degree angle and double check the socket is fully seated.
4. Position the breaker bar so it is wedged against the lower control arm. Attach a zip tie to hold the breaker bar to the control arm. Don't try to hold it by hand! Don't let anyone stand around the car while you are doing this!
5. Turn over the engine for a quick ONE SECOND and let go the key. It's more like a quick click.
6. Check the pulley bolt. It should be loosen enough for you to remove it with your impact gun or breaker bar. Basically, this method uses the starter motor to help loosen the crank bolt.
7. Don't forget to reinstall the fuse when the work is done.
Well, I have experienced the problem over the weekend trying to remove one on an AT, and the bolt simply won't budge. I happen to remember a method which I used on my Toyota long time ago so I decided to give it a try.
Here is what I did (Disclaimer: If you want to try this, you must fully understand the potential risk involve)
Note: the TSX engine rotates clockwise during cranking
1. Remove fuse #19 15A (fuel pump/ECM)
2. Turn the key to verify the engine wouldn't start
3. Attached a 19mm impact deep socket to a breaker bar and place the socket firmly onto the pulley bolt. Make sure the breaker bar is positioned at a good 90 degree angle and double check the socket is fully seated.
4. Position the breaker bar so it is wedged against the lower control arm. Attach a zip tie to hold the breaker bar to the control arm. Don't try to hold it by hand! Don't let anyone stand around the car while you are doing this!
5. Turn over the engine for a quick ONE SECOND and let go the key. It's more like a quick click.
6. Check the pulley bolt. It should be loosen enough for you to remove it with your impact gun or breaker bar. Basically, this method uses the starter motor to help loosen the crank bolt.
7. Don't forget to reinstall the fuse when the work is done.
05-06-2009, 10:49 PM
#312
OK so I just read through the whole thread today because I was considering the UR pulley set. Since my car has a lot of electronics going on, ie sound system with video, I don't think it would be wise to have the pulley go into underdrive.
My question is, are there pulleys out there that are the same diameter as our stock pulleys but with less weight?
My question is, are there pulleys out there that are the same diameter as our stock pulleys but with less weight?
02-02-2010, 04:58 PM
#314
Someone stole "My Garage"
Mine have been on for about 20 months -- about 30,000km. No ill effects that I notice at all. Just positive ones, and a reduction in gas mileage from a heavier foot.
02-03-2010, 09:31 AM
#320
I believe Josh told me @ 400w max for the UR underdrive pulleys. Send him a note Excelerate@sbcglobal.net I'm running @ 900w and went with the NST pulleys (alt. & crank). Although, I did wait 2 months for them to ship.