JTso

iTrader: (2)

Hold off on buying the belt. I have the 1734mm belt and it's too short. The outside circumference should be 1734 but it's not. It's more like 1720mm (the effective length). So I need to return the belt and try another one later.

The belt can be replaced easily. Just use the instruction from the beginning of this thread.

moda_way

Read around here. We do not have a harmonic dampener, so no issues.

Mugenpwp

Ah ok. I just called my local Napa and they have them and was about to order it. I'll wait til you find a good replacement then.

I guess its been mentioned before, by having JTSo on here is a blessing as he knows what he's doing and talking about. Keep up the great work of modding and giving us valuable info!!!

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

If I had a TSX and lived near JTso I would be at his house everyday trying to mod my TSX. LOL. The guy doesn't stop modding. He's a true enthusiast. I know the feeling though; I can't get enough boost so I keep trying to figure out what I can do to make more power.

chuson

I just received my UR SS Pulleys today, I will have it install along w/ my RacingBrake Rotor when they arrive~!!!! Please post the appropiate belt for the pulleys~ THX

CJams

JTso=True TSX Pioneer

Tsx536

JTso = Mod Addict

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the kind words guys. Just enjoying my hobby and sharing the experience.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

I returned the other belt k070677 and got k070683. The "listed" outside circumference size is 1750mm which is what my new OEM belt is. However, the "effective length" is 1736mm which is the actual outside circumference. Not sure why two measurements.



This is what I'm talking about! This new belt brings the tensioner back to a new belt position and allows full usable belt life!

Reach

I don't know if you found it for cheaper, but RockAuto has the k070683 belt for $21.79 + ship. I guess I'll order one to have installed at the same time as the pulleys.

http://www.rockauto.com/

(just found it googling)

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I found that too but I want it today.

Mugenpwp

Nice nice nice!!! Agreed, JTSO is a true enthusiast!! Hope He doesnt sell his TSX at all

Reach

Hey JTso,

Not to be a party pooper, but I just read the directions that came with the pulleys (what? the directions?) and they specifically say:

TSX: Use Gates K070683 (69.09" or 1755mm)



The one I got from rockauto is exactly that belt, same as the one you're running now. Just a heads up to anyone else ordering the pulleys, get the new belt! Its recommended in the directions.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Did you just get the pulleys? Because Excelerate has contacted UR regarding the belt issue and they are updating the instruction to include the belt part number.

Reach

I ordered from Excelerate. They shipped last week, arrived today.

My instructions certainly mention it. If Excelerate contacted them and they did that this quick, big ups to both our vendor Excelerate and Unorthodox Racing for being on the ball!

godfather2

i ordered the pulleys last week. don't know if i missed something, but does the new set of pulleys come with a belt or are you supposed to use the stock belt? if it now recommends the shorter belt (K070683) then i'll have to just pick one up - though i hope unorthodox makes the adjustment themselves and inlcudes it in the kit.

ole_dawg

Does the bolded statement mean that one could replace the TSX crank and belt with the RSX ones and feel some gains?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

My instructions only mentions to re-use the existing belt or purchase a new stock belt if over 30K miles. So it looks like UR has implemented the update.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

It's possible base on pulley size but the stock pulley is also a few pounds heavier than the UR pulley. Do a before and after dyno and let us know.

ole_dawg

I got a Euro-R though ... does that mean I should be looking at the Type-R motor crank pulley? would the RSX-S one be comparable? There is so little information available in English for the Euro-R ... the larger pulley may be for the K24 ... Euro-R, RSX and TypeR are all K20 so pulleys may be the same!!

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

UR is always open to suggestions and after having explained to them the research and experimentation that Jtso did, they made some changes (apparently immediately), and made the recommendation for a new belt. Thanks Jtso and like I said UR is willing to send you some promo stuff for your research!!

lcrazyaznl

iTrader: (1)

(K070683) replace with this belt?

Reach

^ yes.

peter_bigblock

My pulleys also shipped last week and the instructions say the following:

"Re-install the original belt, you do not need to purchase a smaller belt (For more info see Belt Information below)"

The instructions go on to say:

"Belt information: If car has 30,000+ miles or the belt has cracks we recommend purchasing a new belt. We recommend the use of Gates brand belts. Accessory Belt: RSX: Re-use the existing stock belt or purchase a new stock size belt. TSX: Use gates K070683 (69.09" or 1755MM)."

I take that to mean that, if you have fewer than 30k on your TSX, you can reuse the old belt. I'm going to use the 070683 to save myself time replacing it.

Reach

My instructions say the same things as peter_bigblock's, just to be clear. At this point I think it is easy to recommend to anyone purchasing the pulleys to also get the new belt. Its $20 and will save you time and trouble.

I took the above instructions to mean if you've got an RSX, re-use the existing belt, assuming sub-30k miles. But a TSX should get the new smaller belt.

jiggaman

cant wait to hear feedback from everyone getting the pulley mods

peter_bigblock

I'll bet they're saying if you have fewer than 30k you'll be okay using the original belt but, eventually, it will start squeeking like JTso's and you'll want to replace it. It'll cost $30 to replace sooner or later, no sense not just replacing it when you're already doing the work, unless you want the interest on $30.

My car has 35k so it's an easy decision for me, and I feel good having a proper-sized belt on there. Can't wait to do the mod. I won't dyno for a while, my last dynos were in the late fall, temps in the 40s, and I want to have comparable conditions.

lcrazyaznl

iTrader: (1)

well i'm at 40,000 miles i installed pulleys around 36,000 I just replaced mine today and i did feel the car tug a bit better, so I looked at my old belt it wasn't too worn from 5000 miles on the pulleys, but year for 40,000 miles the mechanic said that what it should look like around.

He said it did fit more snugg on the pulleys.

peter_bigblock

Well, I gave the crank bolt a try this afternoon, figured I could get as far as I get today and finish tomorrow afternoon (I have another vehicle). Forget it. That bolt is so f-ing tight I cracked two sockets (a 1/2 impact and a 1/2 regular -- both 19mm) using my breaker bar and a pipe extension. I also twisted one 1/2 extension so it's now bent.

Short of taking it to a mechanic (I've never been relegated to doing this in my life), anyone have any suggestions? It seems like there's so much play in the drive line, there's not a lot of torque being applied to the bolt. Forget the impact wrench, the crank pulley bolt just laughed at my heavy-duty gun.

I found myself wondering what my mechanic would charge just to loosen the bolt, tighten it back up (not nearly as much) and I could finish the job myself at home.

Ideas?

TodaSi

My best friend, is your's this heavy duty?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

This was my best friend and can remove the tight crank bolt off my Prelude with ease. It didn't do jack with the TSX crank bolt.

- 7-vane motor delivers 1,000 ft.-lbs. of Nut Busting Torque and 700 ft.-lbs. of traditional torque output.

peter_bigblock

My gun is a Mac AW434, 680 lb-ft max. It took the crank bolt off my brother's '99 Accord no problem. In any case, if there's a gun that can take it off, I'd think JT's would be the one. That's ok. I've never been beaten by a car project in 25 years, and I'm not about to get screwed by a f'ing bolt. I'm going to buy a replacement bolt at Acura tomorrow and, when I get the crank bolt out, I'm going to beat the shit out of it with my sledgehammer, right in the middle of the garage floor. Then I'm going to ask, "Okay, which of you other f'ing car parts wants to give me trouble?"

TSX2345

I too broke a socket attempting to remove that same bolt

TodaSi

Damn, it must be tight.
Make sure when you put it back you use anti-seize

JTso

iTrader: (2)

I think it's almost as tight as the original oil filter.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The crank pulley bolts on Honda/Acura are ridiculous. I bought a gun similar to Jtso that had 1000 lbs of reverse torque or w/e it was specifically to do these jobs and that gun does nothing. To get these bolts you have to buy a 3/4" impact gun. That's the only sure way to get it off. The 1/2" drives just don't have enough torque to do the job.

peter_bigblock

I think I had to use the Jaws-Of-Life to get the original filter off. I wish they had tightened my dashboard down to 1200 lb-ft or whatever -- that, they left loose.

I'm going to get a Honda crank pulley tool and see if, between that and a big pull on the bitch bar, I can get the fucker loose.

jlukja

Reach

Enjoy... i think i'll just head to the shop!
(... reach looks at his hand tools in dismay)

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

This is how I do these jobs. I bought the crank pulley tool and I use a 1/2" ratchet and lock it against the frame. Then I take a deep 19mm impact socket and a long breaker bar and set that up on the crank pulley bolt. Then I pull out my special tool. It is a tool every shop must have and it only costs a few dollars. It is a 3 ft heavy duty piece of pipe to use for leverage. I give that pulley a few good pushes with all my weight and you will hear a pop. Then she's loose. Sometimes some are easier; sometimes some are harder.