h1coupe

the pulleys on the TSX, are they exactly the same as the ones on RSX-S?
if they are the same
couldn´t these be a good alternative to the UR pulleys, at only 1/2 the price?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...QQcmdZViewItem

drunkenbuda

Looks good, should give it a try

h1coupe

are they the same then?

I have to be sure before I would consider ordering them, ain´t easy living on an island in the middle of nowhere if the item isn´t the right one

Reach

I'm not so sure. Disregarding the question of the quality of the item, it still looks like it is a lightweight replacement set of pulleys for an RSX, not underdrive pulleys, and even if they were, no guarantee they are the exact same size as the UR kit.

I'd hold out on that and stick to the known and proven product.

kaikai114

I'd be extra careful on this, since it's dealing with the engine and drivetrain parts. Dohc headers knockouts are ok since they dont have negative effects, but these if they're not the right size, may be bad for your engine.

KC

S14 n Tsx

tsx and rsx-s uses the same pulleys but I won't mess with some others because its cheap. Don't let that price fool you.

S14 n Tsx

yeah, baby!! Mine was at 130 psi right Johnny? Thanks for your help today...

JTso

iTrader: (2)

No problem, I think the air pressure was up to approx. 135 PSI to get the bolt off your MT. Almost max out my compressor.

drunkenbuda

Welcome to the UR pulley club!

peter_bigblock

Did a dyno pull today, first one after my pulley installation, and was disappointed. Basically gained about 3whp and 0wtq from my last pull (done in January, same dyno, very similar conditions). Not what I expected having read both Zasker1's and JTso's results closer to 8-12 whp and 6-10 wtq. What caused my results to be so different from theirs?

I'm a little bummed, I figured for sure I'd pick up 8-10 whp. As it is, I'm at 184.5 whp and 153 wtq on a Mustang dyno. From my baseline, that's up 24 whp and 20 wtq, maybe, like JTso mentioned, I'm reaching an upper limit to the engine's response to bolt-on mods. Not disappointed in the numbers per se, just the small incremental change after installing the pulleys. For 3 whp, not worth $280 and the enormous difficulty in removing the stock crank pulley. Oh well . . .

peter_bigblock

Actually, I forgot, I also did the Comptech heatshield gasket since the last dyno run. So, the pulleys and heatshield gasket combined got me 3whp and 0wtq. Now I'm even more bummed . . .

aaronng

The weather in January and October is a little different. Do the dyno again in January and that would be closer to approximating your previous dyno.

drunkenbuda

Everyone setup is different, you know JTso would ask for the dyno files.

godfather2

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Do you feel any gain? Might want to try another dyno place.

Reach

Don't forget the weird variables like what brand of gas you had at each pull, or if your local petrol-dealer has started selling you 87 grade from the 93 pump, as I know one by me does.

outersquare

any half decent dyno has a mini weather station built in which computes a correction factor.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Not sure if a Mustang dyno has SAE correction or not...

peter_bigblock

My butt dyno definitely felt the gain from the pulleys, didn't really feel much from the gasket. This is the only dyno in my area and it'd be impossible to compare numbers from a dyno somewhere else to my previous dynos here, don't you think? They correct for temp, barometer, and humidity, I don't know if it's SAE corrected.

What confounds me most is that it's the same dyno, same operator, very similar conditions (other than it was colder in Jan, but not much -- last Jan was very mild here). Car was driven just as far (about 25 miles) to the dyno shop. Same time of day.

JTso, I think my modifications are at least somewhat similar to yours. What was the absolute change in whp/wtq from your baseline dyno to your most recent one? Mine are +24 whp and +16.5 wtq.

jiggaman

maybe the dyno is not calibrated properly? dunno...

JTso

iTrader: (2)

The biggest gains are SAE 47 whp and 40 wtq at 6000 rpm.

vt4lifecuf

will this work for my other car honda accord k24a4?

thanks
v.

peter_bigblock

Good point, I'm only comparing my peak numbers from before, not area under curves. I thought about that today. To compare curves, I really need the data, don't I? I wonder if they can give me that.

cor6bro

Rat’s I just got these things!

I’m no expert, but here’s a hypothesis:

The Mustang dynamometer is a low inertial variable loading device. It provides instantaneous load (force) against your motor in order to simulate various driving conditions (i.e. sustained high speed driving, etc.) – so you can optimize your engine tuning to suit a particular operating regime.

An inertial dynamometer derives torque by measuring the angular acceleration of a known inertial load (torque = inertia * angular acceleration) or – the rate at which your motor spools-up a known mass. With the UR pulleys, you’ve decreased the inertia of your motor and reduced the parasitic drag from your accessories. Your motor will spool up faster and it will spin the inertial dynamometer up quicker thereby resulting in higher registered torque and/or horsepower levels. On the street (during throttle transients) your butt dyno would also register a difference since your car would be quicker in acceleration.

But note the following: Has the volumetric efficiency of your motor increased? No. Are you getting more fuel/air into your motor and thus generating more power? Not really. Does that make your motor slightly more efficient? Maybe – In short: you haven’t increased the generating capacity of your motor, just reduced its rotating mass (inertia) and taken away some of its accessory lag. So, your TSX probably isn’t much faster, but it’s definitely quicker. I think that’s what the Mustang dyno is telling you since it probably does not take inertia into account. My guess is that torque is unaffected by the change in driveline inertia, while horsepower goes up slightly due to less accessory drag.

aaronng

It's like having a lightweight flywheel. It doesn't register as a big powergain on the dyno, but when you drive it on the street, there is a bif difference.

jiggaman

JTso

iTrader: (2)

The perceived gain is achieved by reducing the loss. So the normal 15% power loss to the wheel calculation is reduced. Both hp and tq gains as a result. Dyno numbers don't lie.

xizor

After helping reach install set of these on his 06 AT, here's a couple of tips

-Follow Jtso's directions in order, don't just start removing parts
-Don't remove the tensioner pulley, but if you do, there is a hex nut on the backside that is easy to lose
-There is a washer on the PCV valve, don't forget to remove it
-Don't use a 3/8->1/2 adapter when doing the crank, it will break
-Don't put the power steering pulley on backwards
-The moroso crank pulley tool can't be positioned perfectly, you need to hold it at 6pm to the crank (jack the car way up) and fit the top in as best as possible
-The strap tool is very useful for getting the alternator pulley off, remove the alternator completely is simple, just remove the grounding wire
-When putting the new belt on, put it in place everywhere except the crank, then pulled the tensioner and slip it over the crank pulley

xizor

Jtso, how can AT people torque the crank pulley down? They can't put it into gear, and the moroso tool doesn't work on the UR replacement.

Reach

Yes, we could not get it torqued anywhere near spec. I did it to your directions w/ the 36ft/lbs, then trying to go 90degrees more. We couldn't find a way to immobilize the crank well enough to torque it to any significant amount, either by hand or w/ xizor's impact wrench. I didn't get it more than approx 15 degrees more and am worried it is under-torqued. My car hasn't blown up yet tho.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

You first mark the 90 degree reference on the pulley. Then use a "high power" impact gun to torque the bolt close to the mark.

There is another method which I don't like to use is to remove the starter. Then jam a large screw driver against the flywheel and the bell housing. Some places actually made a tool for locking up the flywheel via the starter opening.

xizor

well we used an impact gun to tighten it, but you have to use the strap tool to hold it in place to get more torque. and once that starts slipping, you can't tightened it much further. we tried tightening it using the tension of the belt to hold it in place, but that starts turning as well.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

What air pressure setting did you use on the compressor? I did initially have problem tightening the bolt when the pressure was at 120 psi. I later up the pressure higher and got the job done.

xizor

I used 120psi, but was worried beyond that since the impact wrench was rated for 90 psi

JTso

iTrader: (2)

What to do if nothing seems to work in removing the crank pulley bolt on the TSX?

Well, I have experienced the problem over the weekend trying to remove one on an AT, and the bolt simply won't budge. I happen to remember a method which I used on my Toyota long time ago so I decided to give it a try.

Here is what I did (Disclaimer: If you want to try this, you must fully understand the potential risk involve)

Note: the TSX engine rotates clockwise during cranking

1. Remove fuse #19 15A (fuel pump/ECM)
2. Turn the key to verify the engine wouldn't start
3. Attached a 19mm impact deep socket to a breaker bar and place the socket firmly onto the pulley bolt. Make sure the breaker bar is positioned at a good 90 degree angle and double check the socket is fully seated.
4. Position the breaker bar so it is wedged against the lower control arm. Attach a zip tie to hold the breaker bar to the control arm. Don't try to hold it by hand! Don't let anyone stand around the car while you are doing this!
5. Turn over the engine for a quick ONE SECOND and let go the key. It's more like a quick click.
6. Check the pulley bolt. It should be loosen enough for you to remove it with your impact gun or breaker bar. Basically, this method uses the starter motor to help loosen the crank bolt.
7. Don't forget to reinstall the fuse when the work is done.

Reach

Wow. No offense, but that sounds like a horrible idea for anyone except experienced personell to try. I would rather pay a shop fee to remove the bolt than attempt that myself.

moda_way

Good suggestion, but makes me think of concrete block jack stands and primer colored cars.

hrj

iTrader: (1)

thats actually a brilliant one. i was quite surprised when it worked.

hrj

iTrader: (1)

thats actually a brilliant one. i was very surprised when it worked.
JTso is very creative, never gave up and determined not to be beaten by just a car haha.

TodaSi

I would suggest this as a last ditch effort, I have done it 4 or 5 times on old Hondas that just would not let the crank bolt budge.

JTso for reminding me of an old trick hahahaha