Yesterday, I got my ECU back from Hondata and installed right away in the evening. Before I went on the expressway for some FUN, decided to pit stop at BN store.

Brief review for 3 miles to BN Store: Power could be felt through out the RPM band..especially 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Car becomes a beast after 4000 RPM.

Following events occurred after 1 hour (about 2100hrs)
Surprisingly one of the members has reported the same problem. TSX 3Pedal

link:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=start

If people are wondering about ACURA TLC Roadside Asst - The service is great. My car was towed in one hour after they couldn't jump start the car, spare keys.

Dealership found the problem to be
quote: "fuse that burnt out preventing my ECU from recognizing my key" TSX 3Pedal
they also mentioned that the aftermarket alarm kit was probably the cause : one of the screw short circuited my immobilizer - which popped the ECU fuse.

I was extremely careful when installing the immobilizer and ecu. Car started right away...checked it 5X before going for a drive. What the fuck happened in 3 miles?

Hondata review after I get the car back tomorrow. Hopefully...they didn't reprogrammed the ECU.

Dealership didn't mention anything about the ECU.

 

Did you happen to check the fuse in slot #8 in the fuse box under the hood?

 

it never crossed my mind.

 

You still have ur reflash correct?

 

Yup, that was the first thing I checked when I got my car back.

 

How do you check for the Hondata reflash? What is the indication that the ECU has the re-flash -- and not the original code?

Does the re-flash make a very noticeable difference in performance? Does it void the warranty? It would be great if it was just an EPROM that could be swapped. Then, you could plug the original back in when desired.

 

VTec changeover at 5000 RPM (or 4750 if a 2006) is pretty good indicator of still having your reflash.

 

^^Also having the fuel cut-off at 7600 RPM instead of 7300 RPM

 

Sounds like a good encouragement to have a performance shop do this for me. A local (NC/SC) outfit said they'd do the removal/reinstallation for $50 in addition to the Hondata cost. I'm ... really ... really tempted.

 

In addition to the earlier VTEC point and later fuel cut-off, don't forget about the reworked fuel maps all resulting in increased HP and torque, more so with basic bolt-ons (ie. intake, header, high-flow cat, and exhaust).

To stay on topic:
I was scared to lose Hondata when my car went in for the same issue drkabe speaks of, but was relieved to find out it was only a fuse and Hondata was still intact and immobilizer worked.

 

Got the car back...and I unleashed it on the expressway for Reflash confirmation...IT IS PRESENT...COZ VTEC kicked in 4800RPM and pulled harder all the way red line

Dealer blamed the short circuit due to poor installation of the Aftermarket alarm and refused to pass under warrenty work....

They also mentioned ..it was bound to happen ..coz the wiring was not professional at all...I do recall when I opened to remove immobilizer..there were random wires hanging..NOT EVEN addressed ...

 

I hope they didn't charge you too much for the diagnostic and whatever else they could think of to charge you.