2007 RDX-overheated
2007 RDX-overheated
Hi,
I am new to the Acura world, but am a BMW owner and big time into DIY.
I just picked up a 07 RDX that has been overheated. I got a great deal so I am not worried about dropping some $$ into it. Overall it is in great condition, one owner with all maintenance records.
What's the story when these engines overheat? Do the head and block warp beyond repair? Is it advisable to just grab a used engine and swap it out? I found one with 62k for ~$1000.
Any advice is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
Chris
I am new to the Acura world, but am a BMW owner and big time into DIY.
I just picked up a 07 RDX that has been overheated. I got a great deal so I am not worried about dropping some $$ into it. Overall it is in great condition, one owner with all maintenance records.
What's the story when these engines overheat? Do the head and block warp beyond repair? Is it advisable to just grab a used engine and swap it out? I found one with 62k for ~$1000.
Any advice is GREATLY appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
Chris
it depends on the damage. you'll have to open her up and look at what is destroyed.
without opening it up, your guess is as good as ours.
so, hurry and get your hands dirty and show us pics!!! because I am interested!
I am interested in why in overheated and what damage occurred.
engines are cheap.
head work is cheap.
so, if you cant rebuild the heads, grab a new engine!
without opening it up, your guess is as good as ours.

so, hurry and get your hands dirty and show us pics!!! because I am interested!
I am interested in why in overheated and what damage occurred.
engines are cheap.
head work is cheap.
so, if you cant rebuild the heads, grab a new engine!
I'll let you know once I start tearing her down.....should be next weekend. What should I look for? for example a BMW e46 M52TU engine that has been overheated badly is pretty much FUBAR-the head bolt threads in the block stretch and are useless....
Not sure about the why yet....I was told it overheated on the highway. I guess they didn't see the idiot lights.....
Not sure about the why yet....I was told it overheated on the highway. I guess they didn't see the idiot lights.....
I have a J32(TL), and your RDX uses a K23.
the K23 is very similar to the K24 which can be found in multiple applications, from TSX to Accords.
i'm willing to bet a google search of "K24 over heat" will net you some results.
I hope this helps!
the K23 is very similar to the K24 which can be found in multiple applications, from TSX to Accords.
i'm willing to bet a google search of "K24 over heat" will net you some results.
I hope this helps!
Thanks! will google it out!
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First thing I would do is test for combustion leaks with a Combustion Leak Detector (sold on Amazon). Overheated aluminum blocks can warp badly which can result in seeping head gaskets.
I will d a compression check first thing, if that is inconclusive I will do the coolant check. The previous owner was told by a mechanic it needed a new engine, so I am pretty confident the engine is hosed. Unless of course they are saying it needs an engine because by time you figure parts and labor for a shop to repair the price to drop a used engine would be about the same.
I will d a compression check first thing, if that is inconclusive I will do the coolant check. The previous owner was told by a mechanic it needed a new engine, so I am pretty confident the engine is hosed. Unless of course they are saying it needs an engine because by time you figure parts and labor for a shop to repair the price to drop a used engine would be about the same.


I would also check the transmission and the radiator. Overheating is not a common issue for RDX. But when it happens it usually due to the radiator failure when ATF line is corroded and ATF fluid mixes with coolant. If this is the case then you may also need to rebuild its transmission and get a new radiator.
Yeah, planned on checking all the cooling system components. How do you go about checking the tranny fluid in these to ensure no coolant got in there? I will have time with it starting Friday evening....
in for the info!
good luck.
if you decide to go with a new to you motor id take the old one for the cost of shipping + a few $$ im debating going B@LL$ deep... for a full bottom end build for a bullet proof spare.
good luck.
if you decide to go with a new to you motor id take the old one for the cost of shipping + a few $$ im debating going B@LL$ deep... for a full bottom end build for a bullet proof spare.
Check the coolant first. It must be blue. If it is a dirty milky grey color mix than you are in troubles. Also check the tranny dipstick. ATF fluid must be pink red color.
Most likely I will purchase a used engine with low mileage as they are fairly inexpensive. I will let you know.
why waste the money, when you already know compression has been lost.
the k23 is cheap to replace...
heads are cheap to re-machine..
we already know the head is fucked.
ship that shit off and get it re-machined!!!
So, I guess the question is rebuild the current head or replace the motor? Is the head and block absolutely fucked?
My next question would be regarding the previous post about the radiator/transmission. Is this a known failure point and the tranny is FUBAR as well?
I will have my hands in it tomorrow night, it is being delivered tomorrow morning.....sadly I have to go work right after it gets here....
So, I guess the question is rebuild the current head or replace the motor? Is the head and block absolutely fucked?
My next question would be regarding the previous post about the radiator/transmission. Is this a known failure point and the tranny is FUBAR as well?
I will have my hands in it tomorrow night, it is being delivered tomorrow morning.....sadly I have to go work right after it gets here....
My next question would be regarding the previous post about the radiator/transmission. Is this a known failure point and the tranny is FUBAR as well?
I will have my hands in it tomorrow night, it is being delivered tomorrow morning.....sadly I have to go work right after it gets here....
the K23 is fairly new. again, its closely related to the K24. add one more cylinder and it will be a K24.
Did you ever google K24?
Yeah, I did google it....couldn't find shit.....apparently these don't overheat... lol
Stay tuned for initial inspection tomorrow night, coolant, atf fluid etc.....
Yep, not worried about that. already have a 62k engine lined up. More worried about the tranny.....which isn't expensive either. If it's fucked, I will do both at the same time.
So, the RDX was delivered this morning. I had about 3 whole minutes to give it a once over. All looks good body/interior wise. I did have time to check the fluids, here are the results:
Oil- looked fine no mixing of oil/water present.
ATF- nice red/pink no indication of mixing with coolant.
Radiator- bone dry, as was the expansion tank.
I am going charge the battery and try to turn it over when I get home tonight...
Oil- looked fine no mixing of oil/water present.
ATF- nice red/pink no indication of mixing with coolant.
Radiator- bone dry, as was the expansion tank.
I am going charge the battery and try to turn it over when I get home tonight...
Ok, the head gasket is totally borked!! 35 psi cyl 1, 0 psi on 2,3,4......used engine here I come!! Other than that she is in GREAT condition and everything works as expected. NO obvious coolant leaks, so I don't know WTF caused the overheat...
Ok, sorry for the delay. I found the root cause of the engine "imploding". It appears the exhaust manifold deteriorated and suffered a catastrophic failure to the water jacket wall in the manifold. This failure flooded the cylinders with nice hot coolant. The motor was completely seized and EVERY single gasket on the motor was fubar. I would assume steam broke every seal in the motor as well as hydro locked the engine. I have been in touch with Acura USA and I am waiting for them to contact me. This is a possible design flaw, we will see what they say....
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