I'll look for the E70 today.

 

You can ask the stations what blend is in the tanks. But most of the time they don't know. Easiest way is to test it with a kit you can buy.

 

you can also get an ethanol senor with the digital display

 

I have been driving the gtr since I had the rdx down. even in 20 degree weather after sitting all day there was no issues starting with 1100 cc injectors

 

I will try RS Fuels first. I think they have a very large selection of different fuels.

 

So within 4 seconds of cranking it starts up?

 

more like a second or 2

 

Call me crazy!?!?!

 

i wish we could see the rpm VS speed the rpm is comparable to others when they do it vs speed its kind of useless. next time.

 

do it!!!

 

Next time, I may have to take a trip up there!

 

So why only 8.5psi? What's holding it back?

 

Oh sorry, we max out the boost values on the flashpro.

 

One more issue for Hondata to fix I guess. Wrench and I have a couple things hondata needs to fix as well. Run pretty well though?

 

Currently yes, car loves the E85. Just need to crank up the boost!

 

I'd guess around 16-18psi would put you close to 400hp.

 

Possibly

 

captain MODest ^ in here

1 psi = 10 hp is the rule of thumb usually...

with this thing though who knows. it should crank out a decent number though especially on e70-85 whatever

 

You didn't adjust the actuator preload on the gate, or swap the actuator? The EFR can be manually controlled pretty easily with a 10mm wrench.

At 8psi, the OEM boost control solenoid shouldn't even be near hitting a maximum target, unless the wastegate actuator itself is adjusted so loose that it makes 2-3psi on gate pressure.

Don't bother with the supercharger, just turn the boost up! Keep it simple.

 

Come on D! Send me over a base map for Twin Charged engine. I know you got one somewhere. PM me the cost.

 

How 'bout you send me the current calibration on your car along with a datalog, and I get to the bottom of whatever is ailing you from making a bunch of power?

 

Check your email.

 

Damn, this is all we got.

 

101 O_o

 

keep in mind hes got a set of cams with spring and retainers that are good for more RPM then hes got it set to. let it SPIN some more.

BC stage 2 for iirc

 

I should have added. Stations don't change anything to say it's 85% or 70%. You just have to test it. It get changed with starting winter and spring.

 

Could I run E100 during track season?

 

If you get tuned for it yes. As long as you have room in your fuel system

 

that's my issue. no room. once the adjustable fpr and return line are in though then it will probably run better all around. after the updated tune anyway.

 

New hope

 

Her belly!

 

Parking lot a little empty here on Christmas Eve...

 

Speaking of which. Those jukes have a neat awd system similar to shawd, they can send 100% of rear power to one rear wheel, however they can't send more than 50% back there like we can. Also a turbo 1.6, I was stongly considering one, I actually don't hate the styling. But the cvt killed it for me.

 

Haha! I told that co-worker that if I had his juke, I would seriously consider the GTR swap!

 

Oh god, the things I would do in a juke R. Just so much beautiful 3.8TT goodness! Sadly, we got nearly half the displacement, 2/3 the cylinders, half the turbos and +200 pounds.....and you ask why I am bitter haha

 

so swap in a 3.7 with a set of blouch RDX upgrade twins and the rear diff from a MDX be right around 650-800 TQ 600 hp would be braking axles left and right might lunch the transmission too.

 

I like the way you think! I just really don't think a honda transmission could handle anything more than mild abuse. But seriously though, would be so sick if honda was ballsy enough to just mess around with a twin turbo mdx and rdx. Like nissan was ballsy and put the gtr engine into the juke, these kind of over the top things put car makers on the map. No chance the puny rdx axles could handle the abuse, especially the thin crappy rear axles. I even doubt the mdx diff could hold.

 

keep in mind the stock engine is rated at 265 tq at the crank and im putting down 370+ to the ground... so keep in mind that mine is still living and if we do the math
to the wheels x drive line loss correction of 20% = est crank TQ
370 x 1.20 =444 TQ
at the crank which is VERY conservative.

keep in mind its not hp that kills stuff its TQ

 

Just curious, why the kink in the exhaust right there?

 

Because it was cheap, unlike the CF Driveshaft next to it.