theotts

Well, I finally got everything sorted out, got all my equipment from the friendly UPS guy, and embarked on the RDX (non-Tech) audio install this weekend. I'll post pics later, but following are the components, location, and description:

Kenwood KOS-V1000 multimedia contoller - installed in trunk under false floor above the spare. This unit is similar to a detached "brain" for a DVD head unit.

Kenwood KOS-L702 - 6.95" touchscreen monitor, mounted in the dash, replacing the HVAC/Radio display, or NAV screen for Tech Package owners. I don't have time right now to explain what all went into this, but I will later.

Kenwood Bluetooth kit - mounted on the backside of the rear driver's side pillar trim piece. Microphone monted just left of the instrument cluster to minimilize it's visibility.

Kenwood DVD player - not installed yet, but going in the center console.

To get the touchscreen monitor mounted where there was already Acura equipment, I had to improvise. I started by purchasing a salvage HVAC/radio sub-display (top of dasy on Tech models). This was incompatible with the non-Tech radio, and it just displayed random characters. Next up was a salvaged Tech-Package Radio/CD changer. Fortunately, it was plug-n-play, and worked with the sub-display. I had to cut the display wiring harness and splice extra length in the harness so it would reach the front of the dash where the sub-display resides.

The Tech-Package radio/CD unit is incompatible with the Acura amp, so I disconnected the amp and ran speaker leads from the Kenwood V1000 to the speaker connections leaving the amplifier. Splicing into these tiny wires, in the dash with limited working space and visibility, very little length of wire to work with, was a real PITA. So I went to Home Depot and got a really nice wire stripper that made the job quite a bit easier. I then spliced into the radio wiring harness, running Front Left + & - and Front right +&- to the V1000, which has a dedicated speaker-level input. In this manner, the factory radio stays functional, and will be played through one of the AUX inputs. I should mention here that the radio controls on the dash do not work with the Tech-Package radio. I will most likely use this to my advantage and fabricate a small panel to replace those controls with a couple guages, or a radar detector, or a nitrous controller!

That's all I have for now. I'll get some pics up soon and fill in any details I left out. Next up will be a strong 2-channel Kenwood amp (for consistency), and either Morel Hybrid Ovation or Dynaudio 3-way speaker systems, all of which I currently have in my garage.

Sorry for this being so long, but I haven't seen or read of anyone gutting the audio system in an RDX, so I wanted to share how I was able to work around Acura's efforts to sabotage the aftermarket. So far my equipment has totaled about $1100, plus maybe $200 for installation materials, etc. I'll add the GNA-510 Kenwood NAV (about $450) system so it will have similar features of the Tech Package system. The speakers and amp I'll use ran about $600 (they were a steal on ebay). The install took about 25 hours. So, for about $2350 (and quite a bit of work) I end up with a system with more features, expandable capabilities, (watch DVD's!), and FAR better sound than Acura's stuff, which is a long way from bad on it's own. OK, I'm done. It's 5:00 a.m. and I have to get up for work in 2 hours. Take care, everybody.

JohnH425

Congrads on your works... yeah.. Post some pics when U've time... Interested to see pics

Ed10

Pics please

theotts

OK, here are some pics on Cardomain.com. I didn't have time to add any commentary to the pages, so hopefully the pictures will tell the story.

http://cardomain.com/ride/3122215

k23a1

Clean install. What happens to the stock deck? Does it still function as normal? What about the GPS ssytem? Does that still function as normal?

JohnH425

Very nice.......

oilerfan

Nice job - I thought hard about doing something similar before settling on a Tech pkg (mostly cause I love the integrated Garmin Nav and ipod control that Kenwood now sports).

I figured that modifying that dash would be a major job, and while I'm comfortable with the electrical side of things, I'm not much of an artist when it comes to modifying dashes.

All-in-all, major props to you sir! Your new Kenwood is far and away better than than the ELS system.

Ed10

Wow.!! Very Nice Job..!!!!!!!!!!!

theotts

Thanks! My RDX is the non-Tech Package, so I had the large HVAC/radio display where the NAV screen is on Tech's. I knew I'd need the Tech Sub-Display to remove the large display, but learned (through trial and error) it will not work with the stock non-Tech deck. I even tried re-wiring it, to no avail. So, I bought the Tech package deck from a salvage facility hoping that would work, which it did. So, the installed Tech-package deck is still fully functional, though I have it running through the Kenwood system, bypassing the factory amp altogether. The Kenwood "brain" has a dedicated speaker-level input for factory systems, so the front outputs from the stock deck are run directly there. This set-up is nice because the Kenwood system displays this input as "FACTORY", instead of just "AUX IN".

Since my RDX is non-Tech, it doesn't have GPS, but I will be adding the Kenwood GPS/NAV system.

theotts

Thanks again for the props! I had to order some replacement interior pieces, because I knew going in that I would tear some of it up. I really wasn't totally pleased mounting the screen behind the dash like the factory sceen, because it actually hides the top 1/2 inch of the screen housing, which has the "Kenwood" logo. It also barely covers the edge of the screen itself - maybe just a couple of millimeters. So, I cut up the original dash housing with a Dremel and started reforming it with fiberglass, which obviously takes a lot of work and time, and time is in short supply right now. I ended up mounting the screen to the factory mounting holes with metal back strapping, measuring carefully so I wouldn't have to do a ton of adjusting by trial and error, and it worked fairly easily and looks clean - surprisingly. There were 1/4" gaps at the sides which I filled with some adhesive backed rubber strips that came with a previous Sirius receiver install (never throw anything away - you never know where it will come in handy).

The install wasn't really that difficult, if you're not the one that has to do all the experimenting, but that's really where the fun of doing a creative install lays. I probably spent 20 hours over the span of a few weeks planning out the install and the equipment that was appropriate. It's definitely not a vehicle you can just buy any aftermarket pieces you want and get it to work. I bought a Service Manual prior to starting this, which is really a requirement for attacking any complicated install.

Now I'm anxious to clean up the hatch/trunk area and install the amp and speakers! Coincidentally, I discovered last night that my Dynaudio tweeters fit perfectly in the factory tweeter mounts.....

oilerfan

theotts: With regards to the ELS headunit, do you have any pictures of the back of it? If so, I'd appreciate it if you could post them. Also, how is the headunit mounted (ie. are there screws that hold in place, or does it simply slide right in)?

What I'm thinking about is whether or not the headunit can be swapped out for an aftermarket one (ie. a flip-out Kenwood touchscreen monitor such as the KVT-819). That way one could use the Kenwood monitor to control an ipod via full-featured touch screen. Additionally, a Garmin Nav unit could be put in, that would let one find those POIs that the Acura nav doesn't have. Best of all the screen would fold out of sight when you turn off the car.

I think a flip-out touch screen would have to be mounted flush with the upper part of the dash, otherwise it would not open. But that is not really an overly-sophisticated modification to make. As I see it, a couple of black trim pieces would be needed to cover the exposed bottom and sides of the headunit.

What could throw the whole idea into the dumpster is that the ELS headunit uses some non-standard form of connections.

theotts

I can take pics of the back of the stock non-Tech/ELS unit. They are identical as far as connections and mounting. The problem is that the HVAC is essentially controlled from the head unit. It cannot be removed, as far as I understand. My Mazda RX-8 was structured the same way. In that car, I added a dash kit that allowed the mounting of a single-DIN unit at the top of the dash (had to order it from Japan). This kept the stock system operational. The system was set up almost identically to my RDX, with regard to stock and aftermarket units interfacing.

Mounting an aftermarket unit where the stock radio resides was one of the options I considered as well. You would need to move the stock unit to another location, such as the cavernous center console, splicing and lengthening all the connecting wire to allow for the relocation. Since there's 5 separate pin-connectors going to this unit, that was just too much work for me.

You can look for yourself by 1) pull the shifter base bezel straight up to break the snap connectors loose. Leave it on the shifter, just loose so other pieces can be detached around it. 2) pull the side silver trim pieces by pulling straight out on the upper portion, then pulling the lower portion up to detach them. 3) Open the lid to the center console to make room for pulling the cup holder base out 4) unscrew the housing for the lighter, seat heaters, pull it straight out slightly and disconnect the pin connectors for the heaters and lighter. 5) pull straight up on each side of the base that houses the cup holders, and then wiggle it around to remove it (you'll understand once you get there). 6) now the stock radio can be removed by unscrewing 4 - 10mm hex-headed bolts with a ratchet, etc. Disconnect all the PIN connectors at the back of the unit. Each connector has a tab at the top of it that presses in and releases the connector. Then the unit can come out. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RADIO CODE BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT IT!!!! Anytime the unit is without power, it requires the code to unlock it. This should have been recorded by the dealer in your manual, service records, etc. This whole process only takes about 5 minutes, 10 tops, so you can take a look at what your dealing with.

Good luck, and let me know if you need anything else. I'm hoping to tackle the amp and speakers this weekend....

bAek-sU

for realz.. man i wish i had the balls and the knowlegde to do something like that.. oh well to you.. i hope i'll learn something from your project gj

theotts

Thanks, man! It's really not as difficult as it looks or sounds. Plus, this about the 10th vehicle I've done an install in, so I've had some practice. I've screwed up plenty to get where I am now.....

It'll be fun to see if I can fit those big Dynaudio woofers in the doors tomorrow....

oilerfan

theotts: Thanks, i had no idea that the HVAC controls were in the headunit.

Just to clarify: when you say that there are "5 separate pin connectors" - is that all for the HVAC controls?

theotts

You can look for yourself by 1) pull the shifter base bezel straight up to break the snap connectors loose. Leave it on the shifter, just loose so other pieces can be detached around it. 2) REMOVE THE SIDE SILVER TRIM PIECES BY PULLING STRAIGHT UP ON THE LOWER PORTION, THEN PULLING THE UPPER PORTION STRAIGHT TOWARDS YOU TO DETACH. 3) Open the lid to the center console to make room for pulling the cup holder base out 4) unscrew the housing for the lighter, seat heaters, pull it straight out slightly and disconnect the pin connectors for the heaters and lighter. 5) pull straight up on each side of the base that houses the cup holders, and then wiggle it around to remove it (you'll understand once you get there). 6) now the stock radio can be removed by unscrewing 4 - 10mm hex-headed bolts with a ratchet, etc. Disconnect all the PIN connectors at the back of the unit. Each connector has a tab at the top of it that presses in and releases the connector. Then the unit can come out. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RADIO CODE BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT IT!!!! Anytime the unit is without power, it requires the code to unlock it. This should have been recorded by the dealer in your manual, service records, etc. This whole process only takes about 5 minutes, 10 tops, so you can take a look at what your dealing with.



Ok, it occured to me while I was tearing my interior apart again this weekend that this procedure needed editing slightly. #2 is changed above.

theotts

The HVAC will work without the radio, but the display will not, which is kinda necessary on this vehicle. I personally prefer knobs with markers over digital for HVAC controls, but I digress. In no particular order, the connectors are: A - power, illumination, etc. B - XM radio control connections. C - Display connections. D - Pre-outs to the factory amplifier. E - AM/FM/XM antenna connections.

oilerfan

Thanks theotts: you are a wealth of information.

So let me see if I have this right: To get the digital HVAC display, I'd have to relocate the headunit to another location (let's say the trunk). Connector C would have to be spliced/extended out to that location (I may need a professional audio installer to do that).

Now is where things get a bit murky for me:
- Connector A (power) would go to the aftermarket HU. Is this a standard power connector that all manufactures use?
- Connector B: I don't subscribe to XM controls, so this becomes obsolete? Or can it be plugged into an aftermarket HU?
- Connector D (pre-outs): are these standard RCA pre-outs like on an aftermarket HU?
- Connector E: Is this a standard PIN connector used by all aftermarket HUs to connect to the antenna?
- Where are the steering wheel controls, along with the audio mute for the Nav and HFL?

Sorry for all the questions - the RDX is much more complicated than my old RSX in terms of upgrading the audio/video, and I'm still trying to wrap my head around it all. I really appreciate all the information that you're passing along.

theotts

OK, here's a quick update on the weekend project - amplifier and component speaker install.

This ended up taking pretty much all weekend. I had to fabricate mounting rings for the mids that were to occupy the doors, which was to be expected. The factory mid has an integrated mounting ring that causes it to protrude from the inside door panel by roughly an inch. So I had to cut 4 rings, 2 of 3/4" MDF, and 2 of 1/2" MDF, then glued them together for 1.25" of clearance for the bigger Morel woofers. A little carving with a utility knife on the mounting surface of the tweeter pods allowed my Dynaudio tweets to mount very neatly in the factory locations.

Installation of the amp was straightforward and didn't pose any real difficulty, except for crawling under the dash to run the power cable through the firewall. I recently had back surgery, so this was a bit of a chore for me, but everything fired up as planned once ground and remote wires were run, so it's all good.

Now, a short lesson on installing new equipment in a vehicle with unfamiliar audio set up; Well, not really a lesson so much as some observations: If you expect something to take 1 hour, double that number, then multiply by 2; You never really know what to expect; With custom work, there will ALWAYS by little (or large) obstacles to be dealt with; Bad things can happen even to experienced installers.

I fired everything up and the driver's side components were dead. I spent some time de-bugging the system, and discovered the Morel Hybrid Ovation 6 woofer was blown. With help of the service manual, I also found an audio-related fuse blown, then discovered a connection that had come loose from the twist connector I had used and apparently grounded out. So, I now have 1 Morel woofer with a dead twin, and I just ordered matching tweeters so I'd have a complete component set. That's OK. The woofers are only $489 a pair, and they apparently can't be purchased separately. Nice.

The short story is that my Dynaudio 8" midwoofers won't easily fit behind the door panels, but considering the previous story, chances are good I will make a dedicated effort to make them fit. I was fortunate that I had some 6" Boston Pro woofers from an old 6.43 3-way set I'd been saving for another install.

Next, my driver's side tweeter doesn't work. I tested it and verified the tweeter still functions, so there's some problem between the crossover (also tested OK) and the factory wiring at the tweeter. Oh yeah, that brings me to another lesson that I usually follow: No matter what kind of car, if possible, run your own speaker wire to aftermarket speakers. Now, I'm not saying a bigger guage wire is better for power transfer for your speakers. After many years of using high-grade, 12 guage speaker wire that's too damn difficult to fish through doors, and then installing similar speakers utilizing the tiny factory wiring, you can't hear any difference. However, if you use your own wiring, you eliminate any goofy wiring connection protocol the factory might use, plus you diminish greatly the possibility of malfunction, as in my tweeter problem.

Gotta go fix my tweeter now. Probably going to take my own advice and just run my own speaker wire........

theotts

P.S. I hope to have pics up of the process soon.

theotts

The RDX definitely qualifies as a very difficult install. I doubt many (if any) audio shops would re-wire the factory deck for you, unless you have a close connection with one.
A. I don't think any of the connectors are "standard". However, it's just a simple 2-row pin connector, so there may be an aftermarket harness for another Acura or Honda that may plug right up. This connector would have to be extended to wherever you mount the deck, and you'd splice into the power, ACC, ground, etc. to power your aftermarket unit.
B. I don't think you could rig this XM unit to an aftermarket deck. Everything in the RDX has it's own language. I actually kept this feature. I just use the factory deck to tune in to XM, and the volume and other sound-related controls are on the Kenwood unit. Works great (although I prefer Sirius).
D. All the pre-out connections are just speaker wire. They're called pre-outs in the service manual, probably because the deck itself has no internal power to drive speakers. Therefore, any signal output is a pre-amplified output by definition.
E. No, we couldn't be that lucky. The antenna connections are just standard speaker-type wires that plugs into the factory deck via a small connector. I'm really not sure how to splice into this. Like the XM, I use the factory deck as my tuner as well, with the sound channelled through the Kenwood system.

Lastly, I don't have my service manual handy, so I'm not sure on the specific wires and harness for the audio mute for hands-free operation, steering wheel control, etc. If you get close to tearing into it, let me know and I'll give you specifics.

If I was going to move the factory deck, I'd put it in the console. Plenty of room, easy access, but still a big PITA to wire....

After pulling my door panel (again) and some careful inspection, I'm fairly confident my Dynaudio midwoofers will mount in the doors. Once again, I'll have to fabricate some more mounting rings, probably trim some more extraneous plastic from the interior of the door panel, and possibly cut out the grill and replace it with an aftermarket grill, if it comes in contact with cone on excursion (why the Hell does Acura put a grill that's concave?????). I'm hoping to have time this weekend to tackle that. Not that difficult a job.....if my theory is correct and it will fit. I took pictures of the Boston mids and Dyn's for comparison. The Boston's are wonderful mids, but they're just dwarfed by the massive Dyn's.

My time for bed now, but I'll be back.

theotts

Sorry, one last musing for the day: with just the Boston mids and Dynaudio MD100 tweeters in the stock locations, driven by a Kenwood 2-channel amp at 150 watts/channel RMS, the system sounds AWESOME. The factory sub is dormant with my current setup, but it still has significantly stronger bass response, and the difference in detail is enormous. The sound improvements could easily be achieved by retaining the factory deck and displays, and simply adding high-quality front components and a good amp.

I'm really going to bed now. Later, everyone.

thom978

you did heck of a job theotts. i was thinking about the alphine screen setup but i dont know yet. still debating on it. anyways great job!!!!

jason1500

I'm hoping someone in the forum might be able to help me out. I've decided I'm going to try to hook up the bluetooth unit out of an RDX into the nav system on our 2007 honda odyssey with Nav. I saw the 2008 odyssey with bluetooth and decided adding bluetooth to our Ody will be my summer project (especially with the new handsfree law here in California clip on speakerphone has been driving me nuts). I picked up a used RDX bluetooth unit up on ebay, and here is where I need the help.

I have the 2008 honda odyssey "electrical troubleshooting" manual, however I don't have the RDX one. If someone who has the RDX wiring schematics could graciously let me know what the pinouts are on the 22 pin connector on the bluetooth module I would be very grateful. Of course, I will post an update once I've completed the project (successful or not). My best friend (a software programmer) is helping me with attempting to convince the 2007 Nav system that it is an 08 model touring nav.

thanks in advance.

theotts

Jason,

Email me at the.otts@yahoo.com.

Terry Ott

theotts

Thanks to everyone for your interest and compliments. I hope to have new pics up on my Cardomain site VERY soon, along with some commentary and work-in-progress.....

theotts

OK, my cardomain site has been updated with pics of the speaker install process. Here's the link: http://cardomain.com/ride/3122215

I also have the Acura front under-spoiler still in the box, so I'm hoping to get that on soon and get some quality exterior pics up.

I did have one other thought on the RDX install. I saw an article recently in one of the car audio magazines where they did an install on a high-end car (I think an Aston Martin). It had a navigation screen, and they didn't want to tear into such an expensive car. So, the installer took apart a Kenwood touch screen model, detached the touch-screen membrane from the monitor and then attached the membrane to the factory screen, giving it touch screen capability. They then added a similar "brain" to the one I used, which was now controlled through the factory screen via the touch screen commands. I don't recall what all the membrane-swap entailed, but I thought it was one of the more ingenious installation techniques I had seen. I would probably stay away from attempting this unless you're a skilled installer, or just have a lot of money to waste on experimentation.....

Hope everyone enjoys the new pics. I'll keep posting more as the install progresses.

gyang401

bringing up a dead thread....!

i figure i share my installation, not a rdx but, a tsx....i installed an aftermarket alpine radio in my tsx, and have full working/function navigation voice, climate control....!

things i bought:

usa spec pa15 hon2

2x rca Y splitters
acura oem mp3/radio attachment kit (anyone with a rdx tech package) you guys wouldnt need it...im sure you could replace your factory with a AU.

what i did:

spliced my alpine radio's power, ground, yellow/ign wires to my factory amp to power it on.

connected the 2 rca y splitters on my alpine front & rear rca jacks to the usa spec pa15 hon2 ipod/iphone module.

bada-bing bada-boom....everything is integrated.

im sure this process is the same as for the rdx with tech package...!

**so being able to install a aftermarket radio this way....you could have the sub-out to a aftermarket amp to bump a much more powerfull subwoofer...@

****HERE IS A VIDEO I GOT OF EVERYTHING IN MY TSX****

http://s264.photobucket.com/user/Upt...17a47.mp4.html

csargemg

Mind if i ask for a little more details on this possible process?

jrod730

Hello Gentlemen,

I have a 09 Tech and was wondering if I would be able to change out my stock display. If so, what would the process be? A little guidance would be great. If not, I think I am gonna go with a Nexus install and find a way to integrate the back up cam.

slden

Technical capability is available. What is your purpose in this?
A short on replacing the factory monitor Honda Accord 8 th gen. In RDX all identical

Jeffrey Cain

RDX radio install I have a 2007 Acura RDX tech Package and I am looking to change the factory radio I was wondering one if you found any connectors that hooked up to the factory harness so I don’t have to cut into it.if not Do you have the wiring diagram to help identify the colors

wspy

Think that fellow is long gone from here