problem installing spoiler.
problem installing spoiler.
hey
i just tried to attach my spoiler to my 3rd brake like by splicing the wires. i seen a spark so i aborted. now none of my brake lights work when i press the brake button. everything else works except the lights that are supposed to come on when braking...i checked the lighting relay. that was fine. i pulled the bulbs that dont work and they seem to have grown this white crust around the base. whats wrong?
i just tried to attach my spoiler to my 3rd brake like by splicing the wires. i seen a spark so i aborted. now none of my brake lights work when i press the brake button. everything else works except the lights that are supposed to come on when braking...i checked the lighting relay. that was fine. i pulled the bulbs that dont work and they seem to have grown this white crust around the base. whats wrong?
Not sure how you managed to screw that up, but your high-mount brake lamp is usually disconnected and the lead is pluged into the spoiler LEDs.
You were on the right track though...
replace the bad bulbs, check to be sure your fuses are all in place and not blown. The white crust is not likely to be related to the problem. It is most likely corrosion from moisture that is making its way into your brake lamps. But definately you should check to be sure the fuses behind the kickplate and under the hood are not toasted.
Good luck.
Oh, you shouldn't have both the high-mount and the spoiler pluged in because the draw and resistance would be twice that of normal. This will have adverse effects on the brake lamp monitor circuit. (a very costly mistake if this is damged)
You were on the right track though...
replace the bad bulbs, check to be sure your fuses are all in place and not blown. The white crust is not likely to be related to the problem. It is most likely corrosion from moisture that is making its way into your brake lamps. But definately you should check to be sure the fuses behind the kickplate and under the hood are not toasted.
Good luck.
Oh, you shouldn't have both the high-mount and the spoiler pluged in because the draw and resistance would be twice that of normal. This will have adverse effects on the brake lamp monitor circuit. (a very costly mistake if this is damged)
oooo ok...thanks guy i'll go check that out, hope fully it is that simple....
how come i see other cars out on the road with spoiler and 3rd brake light connected? i thought that can "mess" around with circuits...?
how come i see other cars out on the road with spoiler and 3rd brake light connected? i thought that can "mess" around with circuits...?
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ok this is what i did...get ready...
my factory spoiler wire was too short. i spliced it with 18 gauge wire to make longer. i dont have the right connection to the 3rd brake lamp so i just touched the ends together with the bare 18 gauge wire...*SPARK*..no more lights....can u think of what i did wrong?
my factory spoiler wire was too short. i spliced it with 18 gauge wire to make longer. i dont have the right connection to the 3rd brake lamp so i just touched the ends together with the bare 18 gauge wire...*SPARK*..no more lights....can u think of what i did wrong?
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 92,742
Likes: 4,676
From: ShitsBurgh
Nah, you just popped a fuse, and yeah, you should just unhook the wires, and hook them right up to the wing, mine came like that from the factory, the 3rd brake light has never been hooked up. G'luck, i'm sure you just blew a fuse. Check your owner's manual for the fuse locations, there's some by the pedals and another set in the engine bay.
PROBLEM SOLVED 
it turns out that the fuse was in the engine bay. 20 AMP stop light/horn fuse.
thanks guys....
i still dont kno why the fuse popped....looks like more researching or have no spoiler light

it turns out that the fuse was in the engine bay. 20 AMP stop light/horn fuse.
thanks guys....
i still dont kno why the fuse popped....looks like more researching or have no spoiler light
19 Sorry about the blurry picture. We were testing to see which wire goes where. The black wire will be spliced w/ the black LED wire. The white wire will be spliced with the red LED wire.

i think this is where i mite have gone wrong...but my spoiler wire has only silver and copper...???
(not my pic...thread from http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84965)

i think this is where i mite have gone wrong...but my spoiler wire has only silver and copper...???
(not my pic...thread from http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84965)
just means you basically did the same thing as putting a metal bar across the two posts on the battery
which is why you should always remove the NEG(-) terminal before touching anything that has electrical power in the car
which is why you should always remove the NEG(-) terminal before touching anything that has electrical power in the car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 92,742
Likes: 4,676
From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by $peed])emon
so if i removed the neg battery terminal and did the steps i did installing the spoiler, it should work?
it should, and if you have the oem spoiler, just unhook your 3rd brake light, and hook them right up to your wing, it'll work
the thing is that the oem wire was too short and i used 18 gauge speaker wire to extend to 3rd brake light. so basically if i want spoiler lights im gonna have to solder wires together.....i thought there is an adaptor just just plugs rite in there like the bulb...*sigh*
Originally Posted by $peed])emon
ok this is what i did...get ready...
my factory spoiler wire was too short. i spliced it with 18 gauge wire to make longer. i dont have the right connection to the 3rd brake lamp so i just touched the ends together with the bare 18 gauge wire...*SPARK*..no more lights....can u think of what i did wrong?
my factory spoiler wire was too short. i spliced it with 18 gauge wire to make longer. i dont have the right connection to the 3rd brake lamp so i just touched the ends together with the bare 18 gauge wire...*SPARK*..no more lights....can u think of what i did wrong?
Any electric object takes power and ground. So, your third brake light is going to need a power and ground wire. So, unhook the negative cable. You need to go to the plug for your factory third brake light in the window, unplug that, cut the end off the connector, and solder a long wire to each of the two leads you will have. DO NOT COLD SOLDER THE FREAKIN STUFF!!! AND HEAT SHRINK THE CONNECTIONS DONT WRAP THEM IN ELECTRIC TAPE!!! Now route them nice and pretty so they dont get cut through when they rub against metal or whatever. LEDs have to have power going through them the right way, if it were a lightbulb it wouldnt matter. But since its already sitting there with two wires hooking up multiple ones, we dont know which way to hook it up. You arent going to break anything hooking it up backwards, it just wont light up. So take two butt connectors, and hook up one of the wires from the factory third brake light to one of the wires for the spoiler light. Once you do that, do the same for the other wires. Then you can hook up the other wires the same way. Then go hook your battery back up. If there is is no light, disconnect the battery, reverse the two wires at the spoiler LED connection, and then plug your battery back in. Now it ought to work. If it doesnt, give up. You arent cool enough to have a third brake light in your spoiler and you should just resign yourself to the fact. Or you could pay some stereo shop to do it for you. If it does, disconnect the battery, cut the butt connectors off, solder and heat shrink the wires togethers, and you are good to go.
Originally Posted by ShibbyDevil
Any electric object takes power and ground. So, your third brake light is going to need a power and ground wire. So, unhook the negative cable. You need to go to the plug for your factory third brake light in the window, unplug that, cut the end off the connector, and solder a long wire to each of the two leads you will have. DO NOT COLD SOLDER THE FREAKIN STUFF!!! AND HEAT SHRINK THE CONNECTIONS DONT WRAP THEM IN ELECTRIC TAPE!!! Now route them nice and pretty so they dont get cut through when they rub against metal or whatever. LEDs have to have power going through them the right way, if it were a lightbulb it wouldnt matter. But since its already sitting there with two wires hooking up multiple ones, we dont know which way to hook it up. You arent going to break anything hooking it up backwards, it just wont light up. So take two butt connectors, and hook up one of the wires from the factory third brake light to one of the wires for the spoiler light. Once you do that, do the same for the other wires. Then you can hook up the other wires the same way. Then go hook your battery back up. If there is is no light, disconnect the battery, reverse the two wires at the spoiler LED connection, and then plug your battery back in. Now it ought to work. If it doesnt, give up. You arent cool enough to have a third brake light in your spoiler and you should just resign yourself to the fact. Or you could pay some stereo shop to do it for you. If it does, disconnect the battery, cut the butt connectors off, solder and heat shrink the wires togethers, and you are good to go.

In addition, the copper is RED (+) and the silver is BLACK (-/grnd).
Shibbydevil, he will have to have someone step on the brake peddel, or have a background behind him that he can see it from the driver seat. When he plugs the (-) terminal onto the battery, the LEDs are not, NOT going to light up untill he steps on the brake.
Good luck.
Good luck.
how can the wire coming from your oem spoiler be too short? i remember when i got my oem spoiler that wire was freaking long, like i had to tie up a foot or more of slack after hooking it up...
It may be that he does not have the extender. The wires inside my OEM spoiler were short, but there was an extension attatched that went from the connectors of the LED bar to the high-mount brake light. You may not have gotten the extension. If not, make one with a similar gage wire, or go buy it at the dealership for $10.
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