Brief Spring Install How To with a few pics

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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 12:07 PM
  #1  
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Brief Spring Install How To with a few pics

Someone wanted this and it might be helpful so here goes. I installed some eibach pro kits by myself and i def. recommend getting a friend to help you. I have a few pics but i dont know how helpful they will be
You will need:
-2 good jacks
-Assorted sockets and open ended wrenches (air tools if avail)
-Flashlight (very helpful when lining up holes)
-Spring Compressor
-Penetrating Oil
-Allen wrench that is included with tools in trunk
-Hammer (need a little persuation now and than)
1. Spray all bolts with penetrating oil the day before if possiable
2. Unbolt the upper strut bar under the hood (2 screws in each side and two in the middle - 12MM socket)
3. Jack up both front sides of the car (makes it easier to free strut from lower mounting piece)
4. Remove wheel on one side
5. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM maybe) (lower circle in pic)
6. Remove the mounting bolt that holds the strut to the bracket (upper circle in pic)
7. Remove the three nuts under the hood that hold the strut in (14MM)
8. The strut and spring should now drop out, if they dont keep wiggling it until the bottom of the strut is free from the mounting piece.
9. Now you will need to compress the top spring with your compressors. You will need to compress the fronts a lot more than the backs.
10. With the spring compressed, put the allen wrench in the end of the strut as show in the pic below.

11. Take an 14MM open ended wrench and remove the nut holding the top mount to the spring and shock.
12. The spring should now be free from the strut and you can slide your new spring over the strut.
Eibach on top, stock on bottom, lots of compressing on the old one
13. Compress the spring and put the top mount back on.
14. Using the allen wrench again, tighten the top nut.
15. Slide the assembly back in place and hand tighten the top three mounting nuts.
16. Put the bottom of the strut in the mounting bracket and tighten the bolt.
17. Replace the bottom mounting bolt and tighten.
18. Tighten the top nuts
19. Put the wheel back on
20. Do the same on the other side and lower the front
Results in the messy garage

21. Jack up both sides of the back of the car.
22. Remove one tire
23. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM, might be bigger)
23. Remove the two nuts on the top of the shock in the trunk (14MM)
24. Drop the assembly down, and once it clears the top hole put it all they way up to the top of the wheel well and bring the bottom out first. This took me a while to get out.
25. Compress the back spring, as you can see it doesnt need too much compressing

26. Using the allen wrech again remove the top mounting nut (14MM).
27. Slide the spring off (looking at how the bottom mount and top mounts are lined up) and put the new spring on. I didnt need to compress the back eibach, as you can see they are pretty much even in length. I put the compressed part of the spring towards the bottom. (stock is on bottom, eibach top)

28. When you go to put the top mount back on the shock and spring, make sure the top screw is inline with the very end of the spring on the bottom of the assembly. It is kind of hard to explain but if you look in the pic you will see the top mounting screw is inline with the very end of the coil. This is VERY important when remounting the assembly and cause me to remove it and start over

29. This part is a pain in the neck. Figure out a way to get the assembly back in the wheel well and lined up. Leave your self a lot of time for this one and i recommend puttting the top in first.
30. After you get the spring in place hand tighten the top nuts.
31. Than line up the bottom and put the bolt back in place.
32. Tighten the top mounting nuts.
33. Replace the wheel and move on to the other side.
Back after drop
Keep in mind i have never done this before so my instructions may not be the best way to do it but it worked for me. It did however take me the better part of the weekend and a lot of cursing but its done If you have it done expect to pay $140-150 to a local shop and around $240 at the dealer.

I just snapped some wheel gap pics that i will upload in a few minutes so check back for them if you like. If you have any question or see any mistakes let me know Good luck

Edit-I added some pics and hopefully got all the right pics in the right spots.
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 12:11 PM
  #2  
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That's a pretty good install!!!!! I was wondering if anyone was going to ever post this with pics.

Nice Job!!
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 12:13 PM
  #3  
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Hey first gen, thanks for the how to. I just recieved my pro kit in the mail today and am still waiting for the kyb agx's to arrive. I am prob gonna have them installe though. It isnt worth the aggrivation of getting the compressor and tools....... But, i do ave a question for you. What is the best way to paint the calipers. A friend of mine took his off and painted, then clear coated. Took him 4hrs. Is there an easier way that takes less time, that still looks good? Let me know
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 12:34 PM
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Thanks, i hope its helps someone. I think if i had to do it again i might just get someone to install them but it does feel really good knowing i did it As for the calipers i just removed the wheel and masked everything but the caliper off. Than i sprayed it with 1200 degree paint in very light coats. It took me a few hours because of dry time but it wasnt too bad. I wish i had clear coated them but i wasnt sure if i could because of how hot they got. I think im going to get rid of the ricey red and maybe do silver or black and clear coat them. I'll let you know how it goes. Oh make sure you clean them really well with degreasers and a wire brush/sand paper. If you do they should last, i have had those for about a year and no problems

Originally posted by ding069
Hey first gen, thanks for the how to. I just recieved my pro kit in the mail today and am still waiting for the kyb agx's to arrive. I am prob gonna have them installe though. It isnt worth the aggrivation of getting the compressor and tools....... But, i do ave a question for you. What is the best way to paint the calipers. A friend of mine took his off and painted, then clear coated. Took him 4hrs. Is there an easier way that takes less time, that still looks good? Let me know
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 07:44 PM
  #5  
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thank you!!!!!!!!!!!! oh yeah where can i rent the compressors from?
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Old Nov 5, 2002 | 11:17 PM
  #6  
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From: D.C. Suburbs
Great instructions!

Now; don't you feel good that you can say "I did it myself"?


VXCL: You can rent them a Pep Boys (or the like).
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 02:26 AM
  #7  
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thanx dust
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Old Nov 6, 2002 | 07:25 AM
  #8  
DigiBox's Avatar
Lots of JDM parts on my
 
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From: San Jose fo' life!!!!
You can also purchase a set fairly cheap at a local tool store. I picked up a set for $15 and it lasted me for about 15 lowering jobs.

I own a set of the compressors that Patrick rented. They ran $45 and don't work as good for Pro-Kit springs at the $15 ones did.

If you are going to lower more cars, it's good just to have them.

If you need any other advice, you can hit me up at AIM: matsuson.
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Old Nov 13, 2002 | 11:57 AM
  #9  
1StGenCL's Avatar
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I was reading somewhere that the autozone spring compressors where a pain to fit into someone elses springs so it wasnt just me. you should look for the ones CiLver2.3 suggusted
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 08:11 AM
  #10  
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Some one was asking for this so here it, sorry i didn't see your post but i swear someone wanted it, not sure where all the pics went, if someone wants them i will see if i can up load them again
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 11:50 AM
  #11  
97Acura3.0CL's Avatar
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1stGenCL back from the dead


hows it going man?
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 01:10 PM
  #12  
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If I do it, I'm going to take the springs and struts to a suspension place to have the swap the springs. I've dealt with spring compressors and they are a pain in the butt. They just don't work well with Honda's tightly wound, narrow springs.
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