Alright TLers simply put, if you want your windows to shut and your sunroof to close from your key fob this is a DIY with a dificulty level of about 4 out of 10. If there are still questions remaining, of course feel to ask since I don't promise that I'm the easiest to understand.


First you will need to aquire:

- 1 Remote Power Adapter, ($20) DEI
- 3 Pulse Relay Timer, ($20ea) P/N 528T DEI
- 1 Inline Fuse,
- 3 T-Taps,
- 1 Ground Ring Connector,
- 1 handfull of 'butt' connectors and 10 feet of 16g wire
- electrical tape is nice to have
- so are some zip ties

You will also need a good wire cutter and stripper as well as a good crimper, plus a philips screw driver (geezs how detailed am I gonna get )
With that in your posession here is how to turn all that to make things work.

- Remove the drivers door panel and locate the wire harness that plugs into the master window control switches.

Door panel comes of with the removal of 4 screws total

Be careful when unpluging harness' on door panel

- Where that harness dissapears into the door behind the white plastic cover is a pug that has 3 wires, you'll have to stretch the plastic a bit to get to it.

Stretch up

- Locate the White/Red wire (bottom of the 3 wires) and install a T-Tap.

This is the wire that receives the signal from when you turn the key in the lock position twice. If your windows are down, you can check to see if you have the right wire by touching it to ground momentarily, then again a second time and holding it for a period of time. This should lock your doors and send windows/roof to close. (The door may need to be closed for this to occur simulating the car all locked up.)

- Upon finding the correct wire, bring it through to the car via the stock boot.


This will be the hardest part of the install. Take the speaker out and reach up into the door and unplug the harness (be careful, you'll get some vasoline on you)
After you get the harness that goes through the door jam unpluged locate a place where you can stick the wire through. Pull it through into the car and reinstall harness, speaker and eventually the door panel. You need this wire to come into the car right above the fuse panel.


- Locate the wire to the left of the steering column

It is the White wire at the very bottom of the brown plug that is attached to the yellow plug.

- T-Tap this wire

This is the wire that sends the signal to the piezo

- Locate and T-Tap the B+ wire as shown ( not the wire you see that I attached a red and black wire to, but the one below it with the single yellow wire attached to it). Install your inline fuse to this T-Tap (picture isn't how I did it)

Use a 12V test light to find the correct wire if necessary

- Find a good grounding spot and attach your ground ring and appox 3 feet of wire to it. This should complete the first in-car preping leaving you with 4 wires total, 1st from drivers door panel, 2nd from brown plug, 3rd from B+, 4th from Ground.

Ok before I continue, I'm gonna read what I've got and see if I make any sense...

 

do u have to take apart all the door panels or just the drivers side?

 

Will void the warranty?

 

OFCOURSE

 

Hey not bad, my pics showed up and eveything...

OK so now that we've finished the in car prepping, we need to prep all of these relays and remote power adapter


I don't have any more detailed pics but if you follow my instructions you'll be fine.

-Zip tie them all together as I did to make it one unit, have all the wires facing out the same way. This makes it easier to attach them together.
-Label each relay (1,2, & 3)
-First, all the Red wires will be connected together but in addition to, Brown from timer 2 will be connected to all the Reds to make a total of 5 wires together
-Second, all the Black wires will be connected together but in addition to, Brown from timer 1 and Brown from timer 3 will be connected to all the Blacks to make a total of 7 wires together
-Third, Black/Stripe from timer 1 and 2 will be connected together, this will go to the wire in the brown plug under the dash in the car
-Fourth, the Black/Stripe from timer 3 will connect to the Blue wire from the Remote Power Adapter
-Fifth, the Gray wire from the Remote Power Adapter will connect to the Yellow wire from timer 2
-Sixth step is to connect the Yellow wires from timer 1 and 3 together. This will connect to the wire from the door that was brought into the car.
-Seventh, just cut the connection of the blue looped wires on all 3 timers and shorten the 3 orange wires which will not be used

All said and done, you should be left with 4 things: a Red (5) to go to B+ in the car; Ground (7) to be grounded in the car, the Black/Stripe (2) to connect to the wire in the brown plug under the dash in the car; and the Yellow (2) wires to be connected to the door wire in the car

Before installing this into the car, take all the timers and adjust them so that timers 1 & 2 are turned all the way to the left (counter clock wise) then back to the right (clockwise) just a niche (litterally just enough to where you could tell it moved by feel.
Install this wad of stuff into the car.
Adjust timer three when everything is installed into the car and adjust it to stay open just long enough to close up the roof.

Make sure the option for the factory beep from the drivers setting is turned on.

Cross your fingers (I am), this should work!

 

Whoa, ... So I know this sounds confusing. For those of your with 'smarts' as far as relays are concerned:

87a = Orange (the wire that will not be used)
87 = Brown (Normally Open)
30 = Yellow (Common)
Red (Fused, + 12 Volts, Constant)
Black (Ground)
Black/Stripe (trigger input)
Blue Loop (cut if trigger is positive +)

As for the Remote Power Adapter:
Red = Constant 12v +
Black = Ground
Blue = positive output but has a delay (this is how I got the second pulse to delay)
Gray = connected to anything that measures above +5v to turn on and below +3v to shut off

 

Botton line: I'm still researching if there is module that will perform what I've put together, but this works! It really sounds more confusing than it really is.

 

Wow, great post. I will never be able to do this, but rep points for you, anyway!

 

but points for a great post.

 

Great instructions and great pictures. It boggles the mind how you figured all this out. I don't think I would try it!

My Maxima would close all the windows if you locked the car with the key and held it all the way over. The TL doesn't do that?

Welcome to the forum. We need folks like you to share this kind of technical information to our members.

We can't pay you but I can give you a bunch of rep points- which I did.

 

Never underestimate the power of an EE with a mission - although I do no care enough about this functionality to do it, I too will reward ith big recog points, because it is the right thing to do, I feel good when I get them, and it encourages people like chusteveb to do other projects. This is certainly not beyond anyone with decent "shop skills" - the electrical hookups are standard relays known to anyone who has fooled with car relays.

Well done, and excellent photography to boot.

 

You rock dude, thanks for the instructions... I'm going to order the parts on Monday.

What is the part number for the remote power adapter? Where do you order it from? What size fuse is the inline fuse? Did you order stuff from Digikey by any chance? Would you happen to have part numbers of anything?

 

Definitely, after you are here for a year you will see how many poor ones there are, too.

 

Great post, and excellent photo. Take point.

 

great info thanks,
I will try it.

 

Thanks for info. But no way am I going to take apart a new car for that.

 

I have enough rattles and odd noises comming from this car as it is. I dont want to cause any more. Acura quality is slipping. Have you ever closed your door with the window down? That rattle is unacceptable on a 35k automobile!

 

Great idea and info !

But I doubt I'll try to do it. I'm afraid I might screw something up.
I'd pay someone with experience to do it though.

Very soon, I'm gonna do my side markers to blink with the turn signals.
That'll be all the futzing around with the wiring I want to try by myself.

 

I didn't see it mentioned here. But I assume that the windows automatically roll up when you arm the alarm?

 

chusteveb,

Sorry, I'm already asking more questions... Still wondering about those part numbers... but also, I'm on the Directed Electronics website (www.directed.com). Is there a way to order all this stuff online? Did you also get your t-taps and inline fuse from them?

Sorry to bombard you with questions, I just don't want to screw up my car.

Thanks dude!

 

rep points very well deserved!!!

 

Hey guys, glad to report that mine has been working without a flaw. To answer some of the questions asked:

- You only need to take apart the drivers door panel, the cover panel under the drivers side knee panel, and the drivers kick panel. All you need is a philips srewdriver to remove a total of 4 screws in the door. Everything else "pops" off.

- This will not void any warranty as this project doesn't require the cutting of any factory wires.

- You will still be able to use the key and physically perform this same function from the key hole on the drivers door as designed from the factory. Kind of like the Maxima, except that in the TL, you must turn the key and lock the doors, release the key, then turn it to the lock position again and hold.

- This set up is designed to roll up any windows that are down and close the roof if it is open (either position) upon exiting the vehicle and locking the car by pressing the lock button on the key fob twice consecutively. Note: the confirmation tone in the drivers setting must be set to 'on' for this feature to be enabled.

- I lucked out and ended up using parts from a local car audio/ alarm shop. I ordered a part online which turned out to not work for this aplication (I still kept it since I'm sure I'll use it sometime for something).

- A 15 amp fuse would be sufficiant to run all relays etc. All the misc. connectors, wires, in-line fuses and fuse holder, electrical tape, etc. can be found easily at your local auto parts store ie. Pep Boys, Auto Zone, O 'Reillys, Napa, etc. They even have wire cutters/strippers/crimpers and other tools at those stores.

- Part Number for the Pulse Timer for DEI is 528T; you may even find this part if you ask the install bay at Best Buy

- I don't have a DEI part number for the Remote Power Adapter but I'll post it asap once I find the info. Another name for this is a Low Voltage Turn-On, they are used in aplications where factory headunits are to be driving aftermarket amplifiers but do not have a remote turn on lead (I used one in my TL for the aftermarket amp used to drive my aftermarket subwoofer). Again, this part may very possibly be found at your local Best Buy install bay.


I will post links if I find websites that sells these products that I have.

 

Some links for the pulse timer relay: (just did a search for it on msn)

http://www.radiomancaraudio.com/deta...DUCT_ID=DE528T
http://www.drdetailshop.com/528T.htm

 

Some links for low voltage trigger: (not exactly the same as mine but does the same thing)

http://www.cardomain.com/sku/PERLVT2
http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pie1vt.html
http://www.virtualo.net/index.asp?Pa...WPROD&ProdID=6
http://www.go2pac.com/products/trigger.htm

I'll post where to find the one I have when I come across it.

 

Here it is, but no pic of it on the website:

http://www.audionmore.com/Merchant2/...uct_code=55000

 

ABsolutely awesome post -- great contribution to the site!

Quick question: Does the safety close feature still work -- i.e. does the window come back down if it senses resistance?

 

Steve, Major points, but now that you opened your big mouth, you gotta document your Subwoofer install too :P

Thanks for all the great details.

 

I would have to say the safety feature will not work with this system. The safety feature only works with the Auto-up, where you pull up on the switch and then release it, and the window continues to close.

It has been a while since I tested this, so I just did it again (with a rolled up newspaper, not my arm, in case you're interested).

When you pull up and release the switch, the window will stop and reverse when it hits the newspaper. With a minimum of damage to the newspaper.

When you hold the switch in the up position, it will crush the newspaper and then stop by itself.

I would have to assume the system installed will work as if you are holding up the switch; therefore, no safety feature. If, however, it somehow activates the auto-up feature, then the safety feature would work.

I think chusteveb will have to tell us which circuit is activated to raise the window, either a direct switching action-no safety feature, or a pulsed switching action to the window switch tp activate the auto-up, in which case-safety feature intact.

 

Great post. Points for you!

 

Not on the rear windows; they don't have one touch operation so this wasn't something I could do, but I can tell you that if you hit the unlock button on your key fob everything will stop moving, and as you know, hit the unlock button twice consecutively and hold and eveything will reverse in direction and open. If for some reason, the rear windows do not shut due to an object in it's pathway, the motor will stop trying to close the windows after the timer relay kicks off (which is the max time it takes to shut the sunroof).

^
lol
I think some may like my subwoofer project. I like a more powerful bass note and am utilizing the stock 8" sub mounting location. The stock set up is a free-air design. I sealed up the rear deck lid to simulate a subwoofer box since a sealed subwoofer set up is more accurate and more powerful than free-air IMO. I also wired up an alpine sub amp and was able to hide it behind the trunk liner by the XM trunk unit. Using the factory sub speaker wires as the line level input to the amp, I am still able to retain my sub level control in the factory head unit. All said and done, I wanted my set-up to simply give me more bass response without changing the factory control set-up and look, as if it came stock from the factory this way. I also wanted to retain all of my trunk space so I didn't want a box back there. This also allows me to retain the all stock appearance so I don't have to start to worry about putting in additional security into the car. This project is almost complete; I'm trying to figure out the correct amount of air space within this box for the specific sub. If people are interested, I can post pics and let you guys know how it all worked out and a DIY for the amp set-up and the box.

 

^^^
I'll post about it in a different thread once I'm ready

 

I'm very interested in the sub modification as well. I used to work in the mobile electronics industry so I have quite a bit of experience in that field. I was thinking about installing a single JL 10" sub in a sealed enclosure on a false wall towards the rear of the trunk. I llike the bass response of 10" driver over an 8", but I could be convinced to follow your lead if the sound quality is decent and still manages to maintain a stealthy appearance.

 

Just remember that this safety issue of the windows/ roof closing that some may be concerned about, is still all controlled by you (the user). I'm not sure what kind of senerios that people have run into where something gets into the way of the window closing but just remember that all this is doing is just giving the option of on top of locking up your TL from the key fob, but also to remotely close all the windows/ roof.

 

Rep points for you .. I'm sure the post took just as much effort as the mod .. Thanks!!

 

yes our cars do this same thing, with the key in the hole you can open and close windows. but you do know that you can only open them with the control right? well this guys is making it so that we can also close them with the control.

 

more time, and more thought. lol
But glad to do it.

 

Hi all,

Would anyone have nice instructions for removing the driver's side door panel and the kick panel in order to do this mod? I just don't want to force anything I don't have to, and it would be nice to know the location of the clips to know where to apply pressure and all that. Thanks!

 

Best thread I've seen in a long time!

 

Nice! NIce! I'll do it sometime. Tipped the scale in your favor

 

I followed you up to just before this point:

"Locate and T-Tap the B+ wire as shown ( not the wire you see that I attached a red and black wire to, but the one below it with the single yellow wire attached to it). Install your inline fuse to this T-Tap (picture isn't how I did it)"

When you start saying "not the wire you see....but the one below it with the single yellow wire" I get lost. I don't see the yellow wire.

also "(picture isn't how I did it)" - where'd you get the picture then? Do you have a picture of how you did do it?

I'd really like to do this, but I guess I'm just dense!